Rhododendron Katevbinsky planting and care in open ground

Homeland of the plant

Rhododendron Katevbinsky appeared in Europe in 1809, it was brought from North America. It was one of the first introduced species, which spread very quickly due to its unpretentiousness and winter hardiness.

Full size shrub

For your information! At the moment, the species is actively used not only in landscape design, but also in breeding programs to obtain new evergreen frost-resistant varieties.

In nature, rhododendron can be found in North America, in particular in its eastern part, in the Allegheny Mountains. Shrubs form entire fields in open areas or grow in groups among forests. Emerald green specimens are also common in Japan.

The flower came to Latvia in the mid-19th century; in the climatic conditions of the Baltic states, rhododendron blooms and bears fruit profusely. Thanks to the shrub’s ability to withstand frosts down to −30°C, it can be found in the Far East and Kamchatka.

Rhododendron - care, soil selection, reproduction, wintering

Rhododendron is a wonderful plant of the heather family, which, however, is not easy to grow in our northern latitudes. Their homeland is the Mediterranean, so they are very thermophilic and do not tolerate Russian winters well. “Sissies”, in a word.

In order for them to take root, they need proper care and adherence to proper agricultural practices. But this flower is so charming that an increasing number of experienced and novice gardeners are trying their hand at cultivating it.

It should be noted that there are many pitfalls and nuances in caring for rhododendron. Let's list some of them.

Selection of planting material

There are several winter-hardy species of this evergreen plant that have a chance to survive even with not very skillful care. These include the following species: Katevbinsky, deciduous Schlippenbach and Japanese.

Katevba rhododendron grows wild in North America in the highlands of North Carolina, where the Katevba River, which gave it its specific name, originates. Grows well in the shade on acidic or slightly acidic soils. It tolerates our winters very well. The height of the bush is 2-4 meters, the leaves are leathery, dark green, 15 cm long.

The flowers are large, very beautiful, lilac-purple in color, up to 15 cm in diameter. Recommended for group and single plantings in gardens and forest edges in the northwestern zone of Russia.

Schlippenbach rhododendron grows in the forests of Korea, Japan, Northeast China and Western Primorye. The name is due to the Russian naval officer and traveler - A.V. Schlippenbach. Frost-resistant, shoots appear annually.

Can reproduce by rooting branches and seeds. The height of the cultivated plant reaches 1.6 m. The leaves are wide, falling, and in the fall they turn bright yellow-red.

The flowers are large (up to 10 cm in diameter), the color is pale pink, diluted with purple specks.

Japanese rhododendron grows on the sun-drenched mountainous slopes of the island of Honshu. Winter-hardy, light-loving. Propagates well by cuttings and seeds. Very handsome. During the flowering period, from a distance it looks like the flame of a bright fire.

Moreover, it remains this way until late autumn, due to the coloring of the leaves in orange-red tones. Flowers with a tart aroma, large, orange in color. In beauty during the flowering period it surpasses all other species that can grow in central Russia.

The bush grows very dense due to strong branching and reaches a height of up to 2 meters.

Diseases and pests

Among the diseases, rhododendron is threatened by fungal diseases - spotting, cancer, chlorosis and rust:

Spraying with a solution of copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture helps get rid of spotting and rust.

Iron chelate, which is dissolved in water intended for irrigation, will help cope with chlorosis.

If the bush becomes cancerous, then all diseased parts must be removed, or the plant must be completely eliminated. As a preventative measure, spraying with Bordeaux mixture twice a year will help - in early spring and late autumn.

Dangerous pests include mealybugs, weevils, scale insects, spider mites, bedbugs, rhododendron flies, slugs and snails. They are combated using appropriate chemicals.

Reproduction methods

Like many other garden plants, adult rhododendron grandiflorum can be propagated in several basic ways: by seed, using cuttings or layering. Each of them has its own characteristic features, which the gardener should know about immediately before starting work.

Seeds

The seed method of propagating this crop is deservedly considered one of the most labor-intensive, so most gardeners resort to it only in extreme cases.

However, this does not mean that the description of the planting process is devoid of relevance, so every gardener should know what stages it consists of:

1. To begin, prepare a suitable planting container with drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with peat or heather soil mixed with sand in a 3:1 ratio.
2. Level the surface of the substrate and spread the seeds without pressing them deep into the soil (there should be a distance of at least 2 cm between adjacent seeds).
3. Sprinkle the seeds with a small amount of sand and cover the seedling box with glass or plastic film to create a greenhouse effect inside.

Further care of the seedlings consists of periodic ventilation and moistening of the plantings with a spray bottle. In suitable conditions, the first shoots of rhododendron Grandiflorum will appear after a month. After two true leaves have formed on the young stems, it is worth planting the plants in different containers to form a good root system for each specimen.

For the entire next year after planting, the seedlings are grown in greenhouse but cool conditions, and only the strengthened seedlings are moved to prepared beds in the open ground. With this method of cultivation, you should not wait until 6–8 years for the first flowers to appear on the bushes.

By cuttings

Suitable planting material for propagating rhododendron by cuttings will be semi-lignified segments of shoots, 5–8 cm long. The lower leaves of these parts are removed, and the cutting itself is lowered into a root formation stimulator (cut down). The future shrub must remain in “Kornevin” or “Epin” for at least 16 hours, after which it is transferred to a mixture of peat and sand, combined in a 3:1 ratio.

As when planting seeds, the cuttings are covered with polyethylene or an inverted jar during rooting to create greenhouse conditions. The soil under the shelter should not dry out, so soil moisture and periodic ventilation are mandatory aspects of productive growing of cuttings.

The average rooting period is 2–4 months, but in the cold season it is advisable to place the plants in a cool room, with temperatures of +8…+12°C. In the spring, the cuttings can be transplanted into open ground along with a seedling container, and after complete rooting, they can be moved to a permanent growing place, having already been removed from the box.

Did you know? Certain varieties of the described plant (for example, R. ponticum and R. luteum) should not be grown near the apiary. The pollen of the flowers of such bushes contains toxic substances, which, if they get into honey and are subsequently consumed by humans, can cause not only a runny nose and cough, but also hallucinations.

By layering

Obtaining new rhododendron Grandiflorum plants using layering is deservedly considered the least labor-intensive way to propagate a plant, and all that is required from the gardener is:

1. Dig a ditch up to 5 cm deep next to the bush.
2. Select a healthy lower shoot of the mother bush.
3. Place it in an organized trench and pin it to the ground with metal staples.
4. Cover the main part of the branch with a mixture of soil and peat, and bring the remaining end above the soil surface and tie it to a wooden stake driven next to the bush.

Throughout the summer season, the cuttings are watered in the same way as the mother bush, and the next year, as soon as the buried part is completely rooted, it can be disconnected from the main plant and planted in a prepared area, like a regular seedling. Further care should be carried out in accordance with the general rules for caring for rhododendron.

Cold-resistant handsome Rhododendron Katevbinsky

This is a wonderful ornamental plant, which I became keenly interested in when I was designing my own garden. To be honest, I took on this task without much enthusiasm. And all because she seemed doomed to herself. For what? To the banality.

I'm tired of the same type of decorative set of typical Russian gardens: asters, gladioli, lilacs, apple trees... No, this is wonderful, of course. But I really wanted something unusual!

I learned about Rhododendron from a local enthusiast at a gardening club meeting. I remember that no one believed him when he began to promote rhododendron, calling it “multiflora azalea.” Nobody but me... I got excited about the idea. Finally, a fresh trend in gardening and decorative style!

Description

The most valuable thing is that this plant is resistant to cold, although it looks like your tropical magnolia. Withstands air temperatures up to – 32 degrees, and frosts on the soil up to – 18.

He is very stable and resilient, this handsome man. And they say they live up to a hundred years in some cases. By the way, it was the genetic material of rhododendron that was used in the selection of many frost-resistant varieties.

Strictly speaking, it is a bush. It grows up to four meters, but in general, the spread is from two to six meters. He gains 10 centimeters per year. Its leaves are large, about fifteen centimeters. It blooms in the spring - in our area not earlier than May and until June.

Its flowers look like giant bells and come in different shades: white, pink, lilac, coral. And they bloom not one at a time, but in inflorescences.

There are evergreen varieties of plants, and there are deciduous ones. The latter fade very beautifully in the fall - with orange leaves.

Where to plant and where not to plant

Rhododendron does not like too direct, open sun. But in our area it is not threatened by excess sunlight, so do not put it in a dark corner of the garden. Let it be on the sunny side, but in the vicinity of other plants that will provide light shade.

Two meters is a good distance. These plants should not be like oak trees, with a powerful root system. The rhododendron will not like this, because it will end in a harmful symbiosis, during which someone’s more powerful roots will take away all the moisture from our handsome man.

It is also not advisable to plant in the south side, so as not to bloom prematurely and then suffer from frosts, alas, inevitable in the Russian spring.

Soil for rhododendron

Take care of drainage - excessive moisture is not beneficial. The bush loves fairly acidic soil, loose and moist. You can add a substrate with brown peat:

• Peat,
• Coarse sand,
• Fallen needles.

And no lime!

How does it reproduce

Well, like many plants of this kind. Namely in three ways: cuttings, seeds, layering.

If you have obtained seeds, start working on them in the winter, right in January. Sow shallowly, do not bury deep. A pleasant temperature for rhododendron seeds is + 20 degrees. And plant them in open ground only in the second year. You will have to resort to another trick...

Remove a little bark from the branch and press it to the ground with the bare part and secure it with a staple. When you plant it in open ground, please do not immediately try to loosen the soil around the roots. The fact is that a mycelium forms under the bush, which is important and useful for it. Don't bother her. And pull out the weeds delicately with your hands.

It will be necessary to water weekly, unless, of course, the summer is rainy. And best of all, rainwater.

They say that propagating rhododendron by cuttings is troublesome. Yes, I haven't tried it. Here in Russia, the water is quite hard, so I soften it with brown peat.

The plant should be planted in spring, when it is cloudy outside, in moist soil. Soak the waterball for a few minutes. The landing hole should not be too deep, but quite wide.

How and what to feed

The first year I didn’t feed it at all - that’s what I was advised. Then in the spring I fed her with ammonium nitrate and a little later with mineral fertilizers. In August - potassium sulfate. Everything is in solutions.

Getting ready to spend the winter

Still, the plant came to us from North America, and there the climate is far from being so harsh. Therefore, protect it before the winter cold. First you need to mulch the branches - those that are closer to the ground. And I just covered my rhododendron last cold winter.

Pest Control

To the credit of rhododendron, let’s say that he himself is no slouch - he resists pests very well. But if the soil is too alkaline, it can develop chlorosis. Then its leaves turn yellow. Just acidify the soil and the problem will be solved.

Variety of varieties

And there are a lot of them! Most Popular:

• Roseum Elegance;
• Grandiflorum;
• Cunninghams White;
• Album;
• Nova Zembla;
• Bourso.

Roseum Elegance

It was developed by the British, and it really looks damn elegant in splendid isolation, under a canopy of deciduous plants or spruce branches. Although you can plant several bushes, one next to the other is a group of rhododendrons.

Album

Globular and evergreen. It grows three meters. The flowers are extraordinarily beautiful. Photophilous.

Bourso

This is the hardiest variety, the most frost-resistant. It has large lilac flowers. But when they fade, they need to be removed.

Cunninghams White

This one with white flowers. The variety was developed by the Scots. Plant it in a shaded area and water well. By the way, it grows very well in alkaline soils. For the winter, mulch and cover. The Scots love to make hedges out of it.

Description

Rhododendron is a shrub reaching a height of 4-4.5 m. Its leaves have an elongated shape, rich green color with a glossy sheen. The lifespan and growth of rhododendron is approximately 100 years. The plant appears uniquely beautiful during flowering, when the entire bush is literally strewn with flowers with a radius of up to 3 cm. Their shape resembles a bell, they are collected in clusters of about 20 pieces. Flower colors are varied:

• white;
• cream;
• violet;
• red with a purple tint;
• lilac;
• lilac.

Katevbinsky rhododendron is planted in alleys near benches, at the turns of garden paths. This light-loving plant, however, can tolerate light scattered by tree foliage. The only thing the shrub is afraid of is drafts, so choose the place to plant it carefully. Rhododendron Katevbinsky was taken by breeders to develop the following varieties:

• "Grandiflorum";
• "Purpureum";
• "Roseum elegans";
• "Album";
• "Burso";
• "Homebush."

Grandiflorum ("Grandiflorum")

This is the most common variety of rhododendron, which was one of the first to be bred. It is distinguished by its resistance to frost down to -32 C and rapid growth. The crown span is approximately 3.5 m and the height is 3 m. The flowers have a purple hue with orange speckles and are odorless. Inflorescences appear in early summer.

Purpureum ("Purpureum")

One of the young varieties of rhododendron, bred on the basis of “Grandiflorum”. Therefore, it is also distinguished by frost resistance down to -30 C, strong and tough shoots. In the Urals the height is 1.5 m, and in warm areas up to 2.5-3.0 m. It does not shed its leaves in winter. Blooms in June with lilac-violet flowers.

Roseum Elegans

It is distinguished by its slow growth, delicate pink-purple inflorescences, resistance to frost, intolerance to winds and bright spring sun. The shrub is spreading, its shoots are strongly branched.

Album

So called for its snow-white flowers with an olive speck. It reaches a height of 2 m. It is resistant to frost, blooms in late spring - early summer. Can be used both for single planting and for creating compositions.

Boursault

The variety was bred in 1849 for cultivation in the northeastern United States. It is a fast-growing shrub, 2 m wide and up to 2 m high. It blooms in early summer with dark purple buds.

Homebush

This is the second name for deciduous rhododendron, which distinguishes it from previous evergreen varieties. It grows at an average rate and by the age of 10 reaches 1.5-2.0 m. It has original double, pointed pink flowers, collected in spherical inflorescences. Withstands temperatures down to -30 C, does not require shelter.

Botanical description of the variety

The hybrid rhododendron Katevbinsky Grandiflorum (Catawbiense Grandiflorum) is a representative of the Heather family and is deservedly considered one of the oldest plant varieties, since its history began at the beginning of the 19th century. Externally, it is a spreading, fast-growing shrub about 2–4 m high.

The annual growth of shoots is 8–12 cm and all branches form a semicircular, fairly dense crown with a diameter of up to three meters. The bark of the branches and trunk is brown, and the medium-sized elliptical plates reach a length of 7-8 cm.

Important! Rhododendron Grandiflorum is no different in its aromatic properties, since even at the peak of its flowering the bushes do not emit any odor.

Their smooth and shiny surface has a rich green color, but below the leaves are paler, leathery and devoid of pubescence. Compact inflorescences combine 13–15 flowers and reach 7 cm in diameter. The color of the flowers is lilac, with orange splashes on the upper petal. The stamens are long and slightly curved.

Planting and care

Landing

Despite their apparent simplicity, rhododendrons are quite demanding in care and need to comply with certain growing conditions:

• acidic or slightly acidic soil,
• good drainage system,
• abundant watering,
• increased air humidity,
• no drafts.

All the variety of varieties does not tolerate drafts and direct sunlight, so it is very important when growing rhododendrons to choose the right location for its further growth. It would be good if it was diffused light from a coniferous tree with a taproot: in this way you will create a natural shelter from the wind and summer heat, and similar requirements in the soil will not take away nutrition from the young shrub. Do not plant Katevbinsky rhododendron near fruit trees, as they can actively take nutrients from the soil, and in the future this can lead to the death of the flowering beauty.

To avoid waterlogging of the root system and waterlogging of the soil during spring floods, plant rhododendron on a slight elevation.

Rhododendrons have an underdeveloped fibrous root, so they do not require deep planting. For planting small plants, depressions of about thirty centimeters are suitable, for larger ones - up to half a meter.

Remember, your green pet cannot tolerate excessively swampy soil, so pay special attention to arranging a drainage system in the planting hole. Expanded clay or natural pebbles can act as drainage

Rhododendron Katevbinsky prefers well-moistened soils, so to minimize injuries during planting and better rooting of the shrub, place the plant in water along with a lump of earth for several hours. Next, place the shrub in the prepared planting hole and water it generously until all the air bubbles come out, and sprinkle the plant with soil. When planting, make sure that the root collar of the plant is above the ground.

Care

After planting, further care consists of timely watering and fertilizing. The root system is located quite close to the surface of the earth, so to avoid injury to the roots, refrain from weeding the soil. To ensure better looseness of the soil and maintain its acidity, sprinkle rotted pine needles under the bush once every six months, but make sure that the neck of the plant is not covered with soil.

Rhododendrons do not require crown pruning, but to make it more elegant, many gardeners give it a spherical shape. Pruning always slows down the growth of the plant, so it is recommended to do it in late spring.

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"ROSES" BLOWING IN SPRING

Once you have enjoyed the splendor of rhododendrons in full bloom, you remain a passionate fan of these plants for life. From year to year they never cease to amaze and enchant us with the generosity of their blooms and the unsurpassed variety of shapes and colors of their flowers.

Among cultivated heathers, the first place, both in terms of decorativeness and distribution in our gardens, belongs to rhododendrons. Scottish plant collector Robert Fortune brought these evergreen shrubs to Europe from eastern Asia 160 years ago. Since then, thanks to the tireless work of breeders, much has changed. Never before have rhododendron varieties been as numerous as they are today.

Rhododendrons differ not only in the variety of flower colors, but also in the size and shape of the bush; they are evergreen and deciduous. In autumn, deciduous shrubs display the most vibrant foliage colors: from yellow, orange to fiery red and purple.

Unfortunately, it is now not uncommon for owners of suburban areas, captivated by the beauty of rhododendrons and azaleas, to spontaneously purchase heat-loving hybrid plants brought from more southern regions for their garden. But after some time, bushes planted on the site may completely lose their decorative effect and die.

Hobbie Rhododendron Park. Author PLANTFOTO

The key to success when growing rhododendrons is the choice of species and varieties that are winter-hardy in central Russia, as well as compliance with the general rules of planting and agricultural technology for this crop. Agrotechnical techniques are quite simple and easy to implement, but if, when choosing planting material, you do not take into account the winter hardiness of plants, then all efforts will be in vain. After a harsh winter, the smallest loss is the death of flower buds (sometimes single flowers on the lower branches are preserved), but you can lose the entire bush. To avoid such troubles, you should carefully select planting material. The range of rhododendrons that can withstand the climatic conditions of central Russia is quite large and can satisfy the needs of a wide range of gardeners.

Hobbie Rhododendron Park. Author PLANTFOTO

Below are descriptions of fairly winter-hardy species and varieties of rhododendron that can be recommended for cultivation in central Russia:

DECLIVUS RHODODENDRONS / AZALEAS

1. Species rhododendrons and azaleas.

— Kamchatka Rhododendron (Rhododendron camtchaticum)

Dwarf cushion shrub, slow growing. The maximum height in the culture is 20-30 cm, width - 30-50 cm. The shoots are rough, strongly glandular-hairy when young. The leaves are obovate, up to 2-5 cm long, fresh green, red or yellow in autumn. It is very beautiful during the flowering period - from June - July for more than 20 days. The flowers are dark pink or raspberry-purple, 2.5-5 cm in diameter, with dark specks, solitary or collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces.

Frost-resistant species (up to -28C), moisture-loving, light-loving. Recommended for rock gardens, small gardens, ideal in compositions with heather. It is better to plant in sunny places; it prefers well-drained, poor, loose soils with a neutral reaction.

— Pontian azalea (Rhododendron yellow, Azalea pontica, Rhododendron luteum)

Deciduous spreading shrub, 70 cm-2 m tall, growing strongly and reaching a width of 2 meters. The flowers are small, very fragrant, yellow or golden-orange, collected in inflorescences of 7-12 pieces, bloom before the leaves appear or simultaneously with them, in May - June. The leaves are oblong-elliptic and oblong-lanceolate, finely serrated and ciliated along the edges, pubescent on both sides with scattered appressed glandular-bristle hairs. In autumn, the leaves have a beautiful color: yellow, orange, red.

It grows relatively quickly, requires moist soil rich in humus, and does not tolerate dry air. Produces abundant root shoots. Grows in the Caucasus and the Carpathians. One of the most reliable and unpretentious rhododendrons. Grows well in light, on ordinary slightly acidic and neutral soils with the addition of peat or heather soil. The large intraspecific variability of this plant attracts the attention of breeders. Most modern varieties of deciduous azaleas come from the Pontic azalea. Recommended for group and single plantings on the lawn, as well as on the edges.

Lavender Princess (Ph. Lavender Princess) - purple flower caps.

—Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron Japoniicum)

Deciduous shrub 70-90 cm high. Originally from the Japanese Islands, where it grows on sunny mountain slopes, at altitudes up to 2000 above sea level. The leaves are lanceolate, up to 9-10 cm long and up to 3-4 cm wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped and bell-shaped with a diameter of 6-8 cm, most often orange-red, sometimes yellow, salmon-colored, brick-red, with a pleasant strong aroma. It blooms unusually brightly and profusely in May, with very large flowers, simultaneously with the blossoming of young leaves, for 25 days. It is winter-hardy, unpretentious, and grows well in ordinary moist garden soils to which high-moor peat has been added.

— Canadian Rhododendron (Rhododendron Canadense)

Deciduous shrub 60-80cm high. The flowers are 3-4 cm in diameter, purple-violet, sometimes white, with narrow, intricately curled petals. It blooms in April-May in a leafless state for 20-25 days. Its homeland is the Northeast of North America, where it grows in sphagnum bogs and damp forests. Completely winter-hardy, light-loving. Prefers moist, acidic soils with added peat. It is one of the ten most unpretentious species. Recommended for central Russia.

2. Hybrid deciduous azaleas

A series of hybrid varieties descended from the Pontian azalea (Azalea pontica). They are shrubs 1–1.5 m tall and wide. The flowers are very brightly colored: white, yellow, orange, red, pink. They bloom at the same time or before the leaves bloom. Winter-hardy, can withstand temperatures down to -29 C.

Varieties:

Cecile (Rh. Cecile) – Upright growing shrub with a spreading crown, 1.5-2 m high. Slow growing. flowers in buds are pink, after blooming they are light pink. More resistant than evergreen species. Recommended: sheltered from the wind, rich, moist soils, sensitive to drought. You should avoid loosening the tree trunk and remove faded inflorescences. It is advisable to cover for the winter and mulch. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Coccinea Speciosa (Rh. Coccinea Speciosa) – The flowers are small, orange with narrow petals. A slow-growing strictly vertical shrub with a height and width of 1.5-2 m; old plants have an asymmetrical funnel-shaped shape. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Daviesii (Rh. Daviesii) – The flowers are creamy white with yellow speckles. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Fireworks (Rh. Feuerwerk) – Flowers are orange-red or bright red. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Fireball (Rh. Fireball) – The flowers are deep red. Zone 5;

Gibraltar - Flowers intense orange. Zone 5;

Homebush (Rh. Homebush) – Flowers are carmine pink, with narrow petals. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Juanita (Rh. Juanita) – The flowers are deep pink with orange spots. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Klondike (Rh. Klondyke) – Flowers are golden yellow or yellow-orange. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Persil (Rh. Persil) – Snow-white flowers with bright yellow specks. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Satomi (Rh. Satomi) – The flowers are soft white and pink. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Anneke (Rh. Anneke) - Winter hardiness zone 5;

Cannon's Double (Rh. Cannon's Double) - Winter hardiness zone 5;

Fanal (Rh. Fanal) - Winter hardiness zone 5;

Fashing (Rh. Fasching) - Winter hardiness zone 5;

Nabucco (Rh. Nabucco) - Winter hardiness zone 5;

Silver Slipper (Rh. Silver Slipper) - Winter hardiness zone 5.

EVERGREEN RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS

1. Large-flowered hybrid varieties

Cunningham's White (Rh. Cunningham's White) - A popular variety from the hybrid group of Caucasian rhododendron species (probably Caucasian rhododendron and the white-flowered form of Pontic rhododendron), bred in 1850 by D. Cunningham. An evergreen shrub up to 2 m high. The buds are pinkish, the flowers are up to 7 cm in diameter, white with a yellowish-green spot. It blooms from the first ten days of May to mid-June. Winter hardiness zone 5, can withstand frosts down to -24 C without shelter;

Roseum Elegans (Rh "Roseum Elegans") - A hybrid of Katevbinsky rhododendron, obtained by A. Waterer in England in 1851. Evergreen, vigorous shrub up to 3 m tall. Annual growth is up to 15 cm. The crown is wide-rounded, closed below. The leaves are leathery, oval or narrowly elliptical, shiny, 7 - 8 cm long, 5 - 6 cm wide, often reddish-brown when blooming, then dark green. The flowers are pink with a reddish-brown spot, 7 cm in diameter, widely funnel-shaped, collected in inflorescences of up to 15 flowers, the petals are slightly wavy along the edge. Blooms in June. Winter-hardy provided the plants are planted in places protected from the wind. Withstands frosts down to -27 C. Planted singly on the lawn, in groups against the background of coniferous or deciduous trees. It lives in cultivation for a long time, prefers fertile, slightly acidic soils, and tolerates slight shade. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Rhododendron Nova Zembla

Rhododendron katevbinskiy Grandiflorum

Liz Dark Purple (Rh. Lee's Dark Purple) - Shrub 1.5 m high, grows greatly in width. The foliage is shiny, dark green. The flowers are dark, purple-violet with a dark yellow spot, 4.5 cm in diameter, large, showy, opening in June. Winter hardiness zone 5, tolerates frosts down to -26C.

Blue Peter (Rh. Blue Peter) - The variety was bred in 1933 by the English breeder A. Waterer. The flowers are 4.8 cm in diameter, light lavender blue with a dark red spot on the upper petal inside the flower. The edges of the corolla petals are slightly corrugated. Inflorescences are compact, with 20 or more flowers. Blooms in late May-June. The leaves are evergreen, large. Moderately growing shrub with a wide, spreading crown, 1.2 m high. Requires a more protected location, can withstand temperatures down to -26 C;

Rhododendron Calsap

Rhododendron Yakushiman Arabella

Nova Zembla (Rh. Nova Zembla) - The variety was obtained at the beginning of the 20th century in the Netherlands. Tall shrub with a wide crown. The leaves are leathery, large, oblong-elliptic, up to 16 cm long and up to 5 cm wide, dark green above, shiny, glabrous, lighter below. The flowers are large, shiny, crimson-red with black specks, collected in compact inflorescences of 10 - 12 pieces. Blooms from late May to the second half of June. Tolerates frosts down to -29 C. Winter hardiness zone 5a. Planted singly or in groups on the lawn, along the road, at the edge of deciduous and coniferous trees, in places protected from the wind.

2. Species of rhododendrons and their varieties

— Rhododendron catawbiense (Rhododendron сatawbiense) Evergreen shrub about 1-2 m high. Elliptical leaves 6-12 cm long, leathery, shiny. The flowers are reddish-lilac or purple, about 5 cm in diameter, collected in dense multi-flowered inflorescences of 15-20 pieces. It blooms in May-June for about a month. Due to its unpretentiousness and winter hardiness, it is the most popular of the evergreen rhododendrons. Tolerates full sun, but grows best in diffuse or lateral partial shade. Prefers acidic, moist peaty soils. It has many varieties, including hybrids, from crossing with other evergreen species of rhododendrons.

Varieties:

Al-boom Elegance (Rh. Album Elegans) - ,

Album Novum (Rh. Album Novum) - ,

Cataractus (Rh. Caractacus) -,

Grandiflorum (Rh. Grandiflorum) -,

Purpureum Elegans (Rh. Purpureum Elegans) -,

Purpureum Grandiflorum (Rh. Purpureum Grandiflorum) - Spreading hemispherical shrub. It blooms with purple-lilac flowers with a greenish spot, collected in inflorescences of 15 pieces. Flowering from early June. Winter hardiness down to -30 C.

Roseum Elegans (Rh. Roseum Elegans) - Pink flowers with a reddish-brown spot. Withstands frosts down to -27 C.

Grandiflorum (Rh. Grandiflorum) - Obtained in England at the beginning of the 19th century as a result of selection from Katevbinsky rhododendron seedlings. One of the tallest varieties. Annual growth in height is up to 12 cm. The leaves are dark green, 10-15 cm long. The flowers are 6-7 cm in diameter, lilac-lilac with golden-brown specks and a greenish-yellow spot, odorless, collected in inflorescences of 13 -15 pieces, bloom in May-June. Very winter hardy. Without shelter, adult plants can withstand temperatures as low as -32 C. It is better to plant them in semi-shaded places protected from the wind - singly or in groups on the lawn.

Boursault (Rh. Boursault) - The variety arose as a result of the selection of Katevbinsky rhododendron. The flowers are 5 cm in diameter, violet-lilac with a pink tint, have a greenish-yellow spot on one of the corolla petals, and open in June. The flowers are collected in a compact inflorescence containing up to 15 flowers. Young leaves are yellow-green, darkening with age. Winter-hardy down to -27 C. It is recommended to plant in semi-shaded places protected from the wind.

Short-fruited (Rh. brachycarpum) is an evergreen shrub 150-200 cm high with a dense spherical crown. The leaves are large, 8-20 cm long, oblong-elliptic, leathery. The flowers are creamy-white with a pinkish tan, wide funnel-shaped, 4-5 cm in diameter, collected in dense racemes of 12-20 pieces. Blooms in June-July for 15-20 days. One of the ten most winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons. Light-loving, but grows well on the north side of buildings and in mesh partial shade. Thanks to its dense decorative crown, it is attractive from early spring until frost. It is even suitable for public landscaping. It is especially desirable for landscaping yards, where it can become the first truly evergreen shrub. With its presence, it enlivens flower and shrub compositions and introduces a subtropical flavor unusual to the eye. Prefers light, well-drained, humus-rich, acidic sandy loam soils.

Hague (Rh. Haaga) - The color of the flower is dark pink. Frost-resistant, withstands frosts down to -36 C.

Helsinki University (Rh. HelsinkiUniversity) - The most famous hybrid of Finnish selection. Winter-hardy down to -39 C. Also able to withstand high humidity and temperature changes. Shade-tolerant, 120 cm high. Blooms from June with light pink flowers with an orange spot on the upper petal and dark burgundy specks on top of it. In inflorescences there are 12-18 pieces.

P.M.A. Tigerstedt (Rh. R.M.A. Tigerstedt) - ;

Mikkel (Rh. Mikkel) - ;

Rekka (Rh. Rekka)— ;

Elvira (Rh. Elviira)— ;

Hellikki (Rh. Hellikki)— .

— Rhododendron yakushimanum (Rhododendron yakushimanum) Slow-growing compact, spherical shrub, 0.5 -1 m high, crown diameter up to 1.5 m. Leaves are elongated, 5-10 cm long, 3-4 cm wide, leathery, dark green above, below with dense dark brown felt pubescence. Flowering is abundant and long, from May to early June. The flowers are initially pale pink, later white, up to 6 cm in diameter, collected in 6-12 pieces. Photophilous. Prefers soils that are fresh, peaty, rich in humus, slightly acidic or acidic. It is winter-hardy, withstands winter frosts down to -22-26 C depending on the variety, but at a young age it is better to cover the plants. Recommended for rock gardens, group plantings in rocky gardens.

Varieties:

Almut (Rh. Almut) - White flowers;

Anushka (Rh. Anuschka) – The flowers are intense pink, pinkish-white inside;

Arabella (Rh. Arabella) – The flowers are red, white inside, pink ruffled edge;

Astrid (Rh. Astrid) – The flowers are bright red;

Balkenegin (Rh. Ballkonigin) – Rose-red buds, light pink flowers;

Bluretti (Rh. Blurettia) – Purple-pink flowers with a ruffled edge;

Edelweiss (Rh. Edelweis) – Light pink buds, white flowers;

Feling Snow (Rh. Falling Snow) – Light purple buds, white flowers;

Fantastica (Rh. Fantastica) – The flowers are red on the outside, light pink on the inside;

Flava (Rh. Flava) – Golden yellow buds, light yellow flowers;

Kalinka (Rh. Kalinka) – Evergreen shrub of hemispherical shape. Reaches 90 cm in height and 130 cm in width. The leaves are dark green and shiny. The flowers are first red in buds, later ruby-pink, gradually becoming lighter, with a yellow-green pattern. Winter hardiness down to -26C.

Koichiro Wada (Rh. Koichiro Wada) – The flowers are soft pink and white;

Marrakech (Rh. Marrakesch) – Light salmon flowers;

Polaris (Rh. Polaris) – Carmine buds, ruby ​​pink flowers, light pink inside;

Schneekrone (Rh. Schneekrone) – Soft pink buds, brown flowers;

Silberwolke (Rh. Silbrwolke) – Pink buds, white flowers with yellowish specks;

Silver Lady (Rh. Silver Lady) – Pinkish-red buds, white flowers;

Tatyana (Rh. Tatjana) – Flowers intensely carmine-pink, ruby ​​inside, corrugated

— Carolina rhododendron (Rhododendron carolinianum) An evergreen shrub 1–1.5 m high. The crown is wide-rounded. The bark is light brown. The leaves are elliptical dark green, 6 -10 cm long, 3 - 4 cm wide, glabrous above, densely covered with scales below. It blooms in May–June for about 3 weeks. The flowers are white or pink, about 3 cm in diameter, 4 - 9 in an inflorescence, funnel-shaped, with a yellowish spot. Grows slowly, annual growth is about 5 cm. Photophilous. Prefers slightly acidic, light, moist soils. High winter hardiness. In gardens they are planted in groups and singly in rocky areas.

In the USA, based on the Carolina rhododendron, E. Mesitt produced a group of winter-hardy honeycombs:

P.J.M.Elite (Rh. PJM.Elite) – The flowers are pink-purple, blooms in May. It is characterized by high winter hardiness. Winter hardiness zone 4. Withstands frosts down to -35 C;

P.J.Mezitt (Rh. PJMezitt) – Purple-pink flowers. Winter-hardy;

Regal (Rh. Regal) - The flowers are purple-red. Winter-hardy;

Victor (Rh. Victor) - The flowers are lilac-pink.

Rhododendron P.J.M.Elite

Rhododendron Helsinki University

— Dahurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dahuricum) Deciduous, but sometimes part of the leaves at the top remains to overwinter on the plant, a highly branched shrub from 70 cm to 2 m in height. The leaves are small, elliptical, densely covered with glands. The flowers are pink in various shades, rarely white, up to 4 cm in diameter. It blooms from late April to May until the leaves bloom. The undoubted advantage of the species is its high winter hardiness down to -32 C, but it can suffer from late spring frosts during flowering. It grows well in ordinary garden soil if you add high-moor peat to it. In nature, this species is widespread in the south of Eastern Siberia and the Far East. It is this one that is most often called “Ledum”. Recommended for growing on the edges and in small groups under the canopy of light conifers, such as larches.

Varieties:

— April Rose (Rh. April Rose) – The flowers are purple-pink, double. Winter hardiness zone 5;

— Double White (Rh. Double White) – The flowers are white, double. Winter hardiness zone 5;

— April Gem (Rh. April Gem) – The flowers are white, double. Winter hardiness zone 5;

— April Reign (Rh. April Reign) – The flowers are light pink, double. Winter hardiness zone 5;

— Rusty rhododendron (Rhododendron ferrugineum).

Slow-growing, low, cushion-shaped shrub. Height 0.7 m, crown diameter up to 1 m. The bark is grayish-brown. The leaves are leathery, ovate, 3-4 cm long, up to 1.5 cm wide. Dark green, shiny above, with rusty scale-like glands below. Flowering lasts from late May to late June for about 30 days. The flowers are pink-red, rarely white, up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 6-10 pieces. Photophilous. Tolerates calcareous soils, but covered with a thick humus layer, preferably acidic (pH 4.5). Quite winter hardy. Alpine slides, single and group plantings on the lawn with rusty rhododendron will decorate any garden.

Varieties:

– Tottenham (Rh. Tottenham) – Plant height is about 30-40 cm, pink flowers, winter hardiness zone 5.

— Rhododendron impeditum

An evergreen, very dense, low cushion-shaped shrub, in nature and culture from 0.1 to 0.7 m tall. The shoots are short, densely covered with black scales. The leaves are small, broadly elliptical, 1.5–2.0 cm long, up to 1 cm wide, scaly on both sides. The flowers are small, violet-blue, 2.0-2.5 cm in diameter. It blooms in May - June, often again in August - September. One of the most valuable small-leaved and small-flowered evergreen species of rhododendron. Grows best in rich, fresh or moist soils. Light-loving, but tolerates slight shading. Mature plants overwinter under the snow, are quite winter-hardy, and bloom profusely every year.

Single or group plantings are recommended for low rocky areas and alpine hills, in clumps on lawns, and in borders.

Varieties:

Azurika (Rh. Azurika) – Flowers dark blue-violet, winter hardiness zone 5;

Blue Tit (Rh. Blue Tit) - Tall variety, 1 m in height, blue flowers. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Blue Tit Magor (Rh. Blue Tit Magor) – Height up to 1.2 m, flowers are large, light purple-blue. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Moerheim (Rh. Moerheim) – Purple flowers. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Ramapo (Rh. Ramapo) – Dense, compact shrub 60 cm high. Blooms with lilac flowers, collected in inflorescences of 15 pieces. Flowering from mid-May. Winter hardiness down to -29C. Winter hardiness zone 5;

Luisella (Rh. Luisella) – The flowers are light purple-pink. Winter hardiness zone 5.

— Small rhododendron (Rhododendron minus)

An evergreen rounded shrub with a dense crown, up to 1 m high, up to 1.5 m wide. Leaves are dark green, elliptical, leathery, shiny, 4-10 cm long. Flowers with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm are pale pink or carmine pink. , collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces, blooms in June, prefers slightly acidic, rich soils and a bright location. Frost-resistant, it is recommended to cover young plants for the winter.

— Rhododendron russatum

Evergreen cushion-shaped shrub, up to 1 m high, crown diameter up to 0.8 m. Grows slowly. The leaves are small, lanceolate, up to 3 cm long, dark green above, reddish-brown below, densely scaly. Blooms in May for 25 days. The flowers are dark purple with a white throat, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, odorless, collected in 4 - 5 pieces. Photophilous. Prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soils. Overwinters with light shelter. One of the most beautiful abundantly and annually flowering ornamental shrubs. Used in rock gardens.

Varieties:

— Lauretta (Rh. Lauretta) – violet-blue flowers;

— Azurvolk (Rh. Azurwolke) – flowers are bright deep blue, winter-hardy;

— Blaufeder (Rh. Blaufeder) – the flowers are bright blue-violet.

Growing rhododendrons, soil, planting and care

The smoke and gas resistance of some rhododendrons allows them to be used in landscaping cities and industrial enterprises. They release essential oils and phytoncides into the environment, thereby purifying the air of pathogens and contributing to a healthier environment.

Rhododendron can be planted as a single bush on the lawn or under the canopy of trees. You can plant them in groups at the edge of the forest and in rows along the paths of a park or square. They will look great in compositions on alpine hills, in “Japanese gardens”, in single and group plantings, hedges, decorative compositions in gardens, parks, public gardens, forest parks. They are perfect for landscape design of public buildings (hotels, offices, lobbies, theater foyers, etc.) and winter gardens. This plant will decorate a heather garden. It can be used to create beautiful low-growing and medium-height borders. Rhododendron is also suitable as a ground cover plant.

The soil

Rhododendrons prefer loose, humus-rich, water- and breathable acidic (pH 4.2 - 5.5) soil. It is advisable to add pine litter and finely crushed pine bark to it. Since these shrubs do not tolerate stagnant water, drainage must be laid at the bottom - broken brick or sand, fine gravel in a layer of 15-20 cm.

Location

When choosing a planting site, the best option would be light partial shade, which is created by large trees in the garden. Avoid the sun and open areas where cold winds blow. The most favorable time for planting rhododendron is spring, and also starting in September. When choosing a place to plant rhododendron, pay attention to what neighboring plants will surround your “pink tree”. The fact is that rhododendrons have a very compact and shallow root system. Thus, a bush with a crown size of more than a meter and a height of 1.2 m turned out to have a root system with a diameter of only 35-40 cm. Therefore, if among the neighbors of the rhododendron there are plants with a superficial root system (birch, oak, tall maple, willow, etc. .), then they will quickly “take” all the nutrients from the soil.

The most successful neighbors for rhododendron are larches, spruce and pine trees - that is, those plants under which rhododendrons grow in nature. The planting hole, which should be 3-4 times wider and twice as deep as the size of the seedling’s earthen ball, is filled with a mixture: soil removed from the hole and peat soil in a 1:1 ratio.

Before planting, remove the rhododendron bush from the pot and shake the root system a little with your hands so that the roots “understand” that they are planted in a new spacious place from a cramped pot. If the roots and peat are intertwined in such a way that it is impossible to do this with your hands, then you should try to cut the root ball in several places with a knife.

Remember that these shrubs have a compact and shallow root system. When planting rhododendron, you should not bury the root collar, otherwise the seedling will not be protected from rotting, which leads to death. When planting plants, you need to ensure that their root system is 2-4 cm higher than the soil level, taking into account its precipitation. After planting, the bush is watered, and the soil around it is mulched with peat, pine litter or crushed bark 3-5 cm thick. Mulching not only prevents moisture evaporation, but also maintains the desired acidity of the soil.

If you choose the right place for rhododendrons, carefully prepare the soil and mulch the tree trunks, then their care is minimal. In spring, it is useful to feed adult bushes with ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate, superphosphate (20-50 g per 1 m2). If the site has loamy and sandy loam soils, then spring fertilizing is combined with light acidification of the soil with a weak solution of oxalic or citric acid (3-4 g per bucket of water).

When the leaves become soft and slightly shiny in the heat, the plants need to be watered abundantly. The root ball should not be allowed to dry out.

It is better not to overuse rhododendron pruning; only in the most extreme cases, sanitary pruning is carried out after flowering.

Care

Weeding of tree trunks, watering and fertilizing. For normal growth and development of plants, the soil should be fertilized three times per season: 1 - before flowering, 2 - immediately after it, 3 - in late July-early August. During the first two feedings, about 20-30 g of special instant fertilizer for rhododendrons or 2-3 g of Kemira Universal per 1 liter of water are applied to each plant. Add 5-10 g of urea or any other nitrogenous fertilizer to each portion.

During the third feeding, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate are added to each bush and some complex fertilizers with microelements. Completely exclude nitrogen from the last feeding and reduce the proportion of microelements. This composition promotes the ripening of rhododendron wood and prevents the growth of shoots, which can happen in a warm autumn.

Twice a year (in spring and at the end of August) the soil under rhododendrons is mulched with pine sawdust, peat, pine litter or crushed bark in a layer of 3 - 5 cm - this protects it from rapid drying out, the appearance of weeds and maintaining soil acidity. Water the soil regularly throughout the season, abundantly in dry and hot times of the season, 10 - 12 liters per plant 2-3 times a week. Spray plants whenever possible, especially during active growth. The surest sign of water deficiency is that the leaves become dull and droop, with brown spots appearing along their edges, similar to fungal diseases. Ideally, water for watering Rhododendrons should be soft (rain or snow) and acidic, and should not contain a lot of salts. In the first year after planting, it is better to break off all the buds so as not to weaken the fragile plant (leave a couple if you are eager to make sure that you have chosen exactly the variety you wanted). In adult plants, after flowering, only a part of the well-developed fruits is left for collecting seeds; excess fruits are removed, which contributes to better flowering of the plants next year.

Preparing rhododendrons for winter

For successful overwintering, you need to water the bushes abundantly before the start of winter, before the soil freezes. In the first 2-3 years after planting, it is recommended to cover evergreen rhododendrons with spruce branches, low-growing rhododendrons with a completely dry oak leaf, more heat-loving varieties can be covered with burlap, which is stretched over the frame. For deciduous rhododendrons, bending branches to the ground is used so that they are covered with snow in winter. At the end of April - beginning of May, the cover is removed gradually, first by ventilating the bushes, then on a cloudy day, the entire frame is removed, leaving the spruce branches to avoid spring sunburn. And after a few more days you can remove it too. Compliance with these requirements, as well as regular fertilizing with special fertilizers for rhododendrons, will help to obtain excellent flowering and healthy bushes.

Reproduction

Rhododendrons can be propagated both by seeds and vegetatively (layering, cuttings). Wild species are usually propagated by seeds, and varieties are most often propagated by layering and cuttings.

Diseases and non-infectious lesions characteristic of them can prevent the full development of rhododendrons.

But more on that next time.

Information from the website “Magic of Nature”: https://magia-naturalis.ru/page-66.html

and the website Garden Center Paer+: https://www.paer.ru/stati_i_sovetyi/rododendronyi_vyibiraem_zimostoykie_vidyi_i_sorta/

Series of messages “garden”:
Part 1 - Forming fruit trees. Palmette - what is it? Part 2 - Schemes for palmette formation from Para SOL kA. ... Part 9 - Tree peonies of Russian selection. Varieties of Marianna Uspenskaya. Part 10 - Luxurious hydrangea. Story. Kinds. Care. Part 11 - Rhododendrons. Winter-hardy varieties. Part 12 - Diseases of rhododendrons. Prevention and treatment measures. Part 13 - Spring concerns of a florist. Dangers. Flower tips. ... Part 21 - Plant compatibility when landscaping a site Part 22 - Peonies are in fashion trend! The main color of 2022! “Living Coral” is embodied in flowers. Part 23 - Peonies. If you want flowers, feed them.

Series of messages “landscape design”:
Part 1 - Tree peonies of Russian selection. Varieties of Marianna Uspenskaya. Part 2 - Luxurious hydrangea. Story. Kinds. Care. Part 3 - Rhododendrons. Winter-hardy varieties. Part 4 - Diseases of rhododendrons. Prevention and treatment measures. Part 5 - Spring concerns of a florist. Dangers. Flower tips. ... Part 12 - Botanical watercolor. illustrations by Eunike Nugroho. Part 13 - Plant compatibility when landscaping a site Part 14 - Peonies. If you want flowers, feed them.

Landing rules

First, you should think about purchasing a seedling. So that the description of the variety does not deceive and the bush pleases with flowering for a long time, you need to choose the right planting material.

Important! Rhododendron should not be planted next to a plant that has shallow roots. This will inhibit the growth of the bush

When choosing, adhere to the following rules:

1. Do not take adult specimens or rooted cuttings. They will not acclimatize well.
2. The seedling must be 2 years old. The root system must be placed in a container.
3. Healthy foliage. The leaf blade should have a greenish color and be evenly colored. You should not take a cutting that, upon examination, showed signs of necrosis.

Planting is carried out both in spring and summer. For Rhododendron Purpureum Grandiflorum, choose an area with diffused light. If the bush is planted near trees, leave a distance of 2 m.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, it is better to plant on an earthen hill, covering it with stones. After purchasing, the seedling is lowered with its rhizome into a bucket of water and held until bubbles begin to form. Then in the prepared hole they make a depression the size of the roots and carefully place the bush there

Work is carried out carefully so as not to damage the rhizome. Cover the top with earth, lightly compact it, water it and mulch it with pine needles.

Prepare the planting hole in advance, 3-4 weeks in advance. Since the root system of rhododendron is superficial, it does not need a deep hole. Its approximate dimensions are: diameter - 0.6 m, depth - 0.4 m. The dug hole is filled with prepared substrate.

Landing Features

How to feed rhododendron after flowering

It is better to purchase Katevbinsky rhododendron grandiflora seedlings at a garden center. The choice of planting material should be approached responsibly, paying attention to resistance to cold.

Important! In the Russian climate, varieties grown in Finland take root better than in Germany or France, where conditions are much milder.

It is recommended to give preference to container seedlings with a formed root system that have reached the age of 2-3 years. In this case, it is necessary to carefully examine it, paying attention to any signs of the presence of an illness.

Boarding time

Planting is best done in the spring, throughout the summer months or in early autumn. In many ways, the choice of a suitable period depends on the climate and weather conditions at the current moment. You can tentatively plan spring planting:

• in mid-April in the south of the country (Kuban, North Caucasus);
• at the beginning of May in the central zone (including in the Moscow region);
• in mid-May in Siberia, the Urals, and the Leningrad region.

Note! Whatever time is chosen, the plant should not be in the flowering stage at the time of planting. In autumn and spring there should be no risk of frost.

Place and soil for planting

Preference is given to areas with an abundance of diffused sunlight. A slightly shaded place under the spreading crown of a tall tree at a distance of about 2 m from it is perfect. It is advisable that it be reliably protected from gusts of wind.

The soil composition should be selected in accordance with the preferences of the rhododendron. Katevba rhododendron needs rather acidic, peaty soil enriched with humus. Coarse sand can be added to loosen it. When planting, a complex fertilizer that does not contain calcium and chlorine is mixed into the soil.

Planting rhododendron

It is recommended to prepare the planting hole 2 weeks before the main work. Its optimal size is about 60 cm in diameter and 40 cm in depth.

Important! If you select an area with dense soil that is poorly permeable to moisture, then a drainage layer 10 cm high must be poured onto the bottom of the planting hole. Expanded clay, crushed red brick, and pebbles are suitable. White bricks or concrete residues should not be used to avoid alkalization of the soil.

Seedling preparation

Planting in the ground cannot be carried out without removing non-viable parts of the root system that prevent the growth of young roots, since the development of the plant may slow down and it will die. To avoid this, carefully remove all dead parts of the rhizome with a sharpened tool and place the seedling in heated rainwater. You can start planting when the root ball has absorbed enough moisture and air bubbles stop rising to the surface.

It should be borne in mind that the shrub does not respond well to the deepening of the root collar, so it must be installed at surface level or even raised a couple of centimeters. Having completed planting, the soil is mulched with pine bark without affecting the root collar. For some time after planting, rhododendron needs to be shaded and often sprayed with water.

Fertilizer application

For the first few years, the young plant is not fed. If it gives less growth than expected, then the reason is most likely a violation of planting rules or an inappropriate level of soil acidity.

Adult Katevbinsky rhododendron is fed several times during the season:

• before the beginning of the flowering period, it is recommended to apply fertilizers with a high nitrogen content (azofoska or specialized compounds for rhododendrons);
• when the flowering phase has begun, it is necessary to spray with flower growth stimulants;
• from July and towards the end of summer, fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen are used to help the bush compact its shoots and leaves for better preservation in the winter.

The fertilizers used can be in liquid or dry form. The first ones are used for spraying or watering in the middle of the bush, and the second ones are scattered across the diameter at a distance of 20-30 cm, after first lifting the mulch and then returning it to its original place.

Feeding rhododendron

How to care for an exquisite plant

Like any cultivated plant, azalea requires, although simple, certain care.

It should be plentiful, especially for young seedlings. The intensity of watering is determined by the appearance of the top layer of soil. That is, if the soil outside looks dry, then the plant needs to be watered. In addition, garden rhododendron prefers increased humidity, which is created by spraying the flower with a spray bottle. This procedure is carried out during the day in very hot and dry weather. Also, for additional moisture, you can use several open vessels filled with water, which are placed near the plant.

Loosening the soil

Produce regularly after each watering. This will preserve moisture and saturate the soil with additional oxygen, which is necessary for the normal development of the root system and the entire plant as a whole.

To loosen the soil, a hoe is usually used, with which the upper layer of soil near the trunk is carefully loosened so as not to injure the root

Fertilizer application and soil composition

Azalea is very demanding on the composition of the soil, therefore, before planting the plant, it is necessary to select its composition correctly. The most acceptable option is soil consisting of:

• humus;
• sand;
• peat;
• coniferous land. This substrate consists of rotted needles of pine, larch, fir or other coniferous trees. Such soil can be purchased at garden stores or collected independently in the forest under coniferous plants;
• turf land. Such soil is prepared from grass that rots over a certain period of time;
• leafy soil. This substrate consists of rotted leaves of bushes and trees. It can also be purchased in stores or collected under any tree.

To prepare a high-quality earthen composition, all of the above elements are mixed in equal parts. This will create acidic and breathable soil, which is best suited for growing garden azaleas.

You need to start fertilizing the plant a month after it is planted in open ground. Subsequent feedings are carried out every twenty days. As fertilizers, you can use organic and mineral additives intended for ornamental flowering crops, which are easy to find in any specialized store.

Care

Plant care includes the following work:

1. Watering.
2. Fertilizer application.
3. Mulching and loosening.
4. Removing weeds.

Following the rules when performing these works will help to grow a healthy and beautiful plant.

Drainage

If the site has heavy clay soil, it is necessary to make drainage before planting rhododendron. The drainage layer is laid at a depth of 10-15 centimeters. Gravel, coarse sand, and crushed stone are suitable for this.

Mulching

Mulching is done to protect the roots from overheating, retain moisture in the soil, and suppress weeds. The best mulch for rhododendron is fallen pine needles, sawdust from coniferous trees, and dry peat.

Watering

Heather crops do not like the soil to dry out due to the shallow location of the roots. Water the plants 2 times a week in hot weather. Young bushes are sprayed. Humidity should not be excessive; water only when the top layer of soil dries out.

Feeding

In spring, rhododendron needs nitrogen. Make a solution from 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate and 10 liters of water. During flowering, the bushes are fed with acidic fertilizers for azaleas. In August, potassium sulfate is added - 1 tablespoon per 10 water. To acidify the soil around the bushes, colloidal sulfur is scattered (40-80 grams, depending on the size of the bush).

Bloom

During flowering, rhododendron requires special attention. It is fed and watered abundantly. It is important to remove faded inflorescences so that they do not interfere with the development of new ones and do not make the bush untidy.

Trimming

Pruning is done in early May; this plant is given a rounded shape and neat appearance. Sometimes this procedure leads to delayed growth and flowering of the bush. Pruning is replaced by pinching shoots.

Wintering

The roots of the plant are mulched with dry peat, sawdust or pine needles. For rhododendron, temperature changes in winter and snow sticking to branches are dangerous. A support is installed around the bush and wrapped in lutrasil or other material that allows air to pass through. You can bend the bush to the ground and cover it in a similar way.

Instructions for planting rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum"

1. Water the seedling generously, and if the root ball is dry, then soak it in a bucket of water for 40-50 minutes so that all air bubbles come out and it is saturated with moisture.
2. Dig a planting hole approximately twice the size of the seedling's root ball (depth - 34-40, width - 45-60 cm).
3. Make a drainage layer at the bottom of the hole from broken red brick, sand, fine gravel, pebbles or crushed granite - 7-8 cm.
4. Pour a little soil mixture (8-10 cm layer) and pour 4-5 liters of water into the hole so that the bottom layer is well saturated.
5. Then place the seedling so that the root collar is 3-5 cm higher than the ground level. And after compacting the soil mixture and watering, the base of the bush will be exactly at ground level. Gradually fill in the substrate and compact it.
6. Water the tree trunk circle with 6-8 liters of water. If the soil settles too much, add the mixture.
7. Apply a 6-8 cm layer of mulch from peat, heather soil, pine needles or leaves of oak, birch or linden to retain moisture, increase acidity and the amount of humus. The root collar cannot be covered; it is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent it from rotting.
8. Cover the seedling with a newspaper cap, cloth or net for 7-12 days. Then drive a stake for support, tilt it towards the winds and tie the seedling.

For more details, see the special article:

Care after planting for rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum"

After planting, the plant needs proper watering, as moisture is required for adaptation and development. The most critical period lasts until August, when it becomes very hot and rains less and less.

1. The plant has a small root ball that dries out quickly, so the flower needs to be watered frequently - 4-6 liters of water every 2-3 days and sprayed - preferably daily in the morning or evening.
2. According to most experts, proper watering is more important than fertilizing. But 15-20 days after planting, when it takes root, the Katevbinsky rhododendron “Grandiflorum”, it is advisable to feed it with 10-15 grams of complex mineral fertilizer.
3. From mid-September to November, abundant watering contributes to a more successful wintering of the plant. If autumn is dry and there is little rain, then water every 5-7 days with 6-8 liters of water.
4. Before frost (late September - early October), spray the plant with a copper-containing preparation (copper sulfate, copper oxychloride), Bordeaux mixture or Fitosporin to prevent fungal diseases.
5. In early - mid-November (after the arrival of the first cold weather), pour a 10-15 cm layer of mulch (peat, pine needles), and cover the top with spruce branches or stretch white burlap, agrofibre or lutrasil onto stakes (wire frame).

Luxurious and handsome rhododendron katevba.

Characteristics of Katevba rhododendron Grandiflorum

When growing rhododendron in most of the Russian Federation, flowering bushes can be expected as early as May. The inflorescences remain on the plants for about a month, and then they are gradually replaced by fruits in the form of seed pods. Full ripening of the seeds can be expected in October.

As for the winter hardiness of the described evergreen shrub, adult plants can easily tolerate winter temperature drops down to -32°C without shedding their leaves. Even during cold weather, the moisture evaporates from them, so it is worth continuing moderate watering of the shrubs until the soil freezes.

If the thermometer column drops far beyond the zero mark, the leaf plates of the rhododendron begin to curl and droop, which provides the plant with a reduction in moisture loss.

The Grandiflorum variety does not make too many demands on planting and care, but in order to get the most ornamental shrub possible, it is still worth knowing about some of the cultivation features of this particular varietal variety of this plant.

Characteristics and description

Rhododendron forms a lush spherical bush. The height of the plant reaches 4 meters. Glossy leaves in the shape of an ellipse are dark green. The root system is buried 40 centimeters.

It blooms with pink bells with a diameter of 6 centimeters. They are collected in brushes of 20 colors. The flowering bush creates the effect of a pink cloud, for which it is called a rose tree. The plant is long-lived, growing up to 100 years. Rhododendron Katevbinsky blooms in May, flowering continues for a month. When flowering ends, fruits form. These are seed pods. The seeds reach maturity in October.

Reproduction methods

The hybrid Grandiflorum Purpureum can be propagated by seeds or vegetatively. Cuttings can be harvested from semi-lignified branches from mid-June. The shoot is cut 5–8 cm long, the leaves on the lower part are removed, and 2–3 pieces are left on the upper part. Since cuttings do not root well, it is recommended to soak them in a growth stimulant solution for 12–16 hours before planting.

The seed method is more labor-intensive. First of all, the seed material is subjected to stratification (kept in damp sand for 1–2 months at a temperature of 1… 5°C). Before sowing, the seeds are washed and soaked for 8–12 hours in a growth stimulator. Seedlings are germinated in a substrate of peat and sand. Shoots appear in 6–8 days. After this, the seedlings are provided with sufficient light and an air temperature of 15... 20°C.

Important! For the first year, seedlings grown from seeds are kept in greenhouse conditions

The simplest method is propagation by layering. In the spring, a small depression is made near the mother bush into which a nutrient substrate is added.

On the young shoot, cuts are made in several places, the foliage is removed into parts that will be placed in the ground, carefully tilted and placed in the hole. Using staples or hooks, the layering is secured and sprinkled with substrate.

Throughout the season, the soil needs to be moistened and, if necessary, topped up. By mid-summer you can see the first signs of rooting. It can be transplanted from the mother plant only next spring. The mother bush can be reused for layering only after 5–10 years.

Rhododendron Grandiflorum Purpureum is an amazing plant that is well cultivated even in unfavorable climatic conditions. With minimal care and proper planting, you can get a magnificent lush shrub in your garden.

Reproduction

Rhododendron katevbinsky Grandiflorum is propagated by seeds and vegetatively. Cuttings are taken from semi-lignified shoots from the second half of June. For cuttings, cut a shoot 5-8 cm long, remove the lower leaves, leaving 2-3 at the top. Cuttings take root hard, so they are first kept in a growth stimulator for 12-16 hours.

Subsequently, they are germinated in containers with a damp sand-peat mixture. The evergreen species of rhododendron Grandiflorum takes about 3-4.5 months to take root. In winter, the seedling is stored in bright, cool rooms; in summer, it is grown in the garden for about 2 years.

Care requirements

Like other plants, azalea needs regular watering and weeding. However, this shrub does not tolerate loosening the soil, because after such a procedure the mycelium of the rhododendron can be damaged. It is better to remove all weeds near the plant by hand.

Due to the fact that the shrub does not tolerate dry soil, you need to take care of regular and abundant watering of the rhododendron (at least once a week).

One large bush requires approximately 50 liters of water. There is no need to rush when watering; it is better to make sure that the water is well absorbed into the soil. The plant loves soft water, like rain. To soften and acidify well water, you can use acetic or citric acid.

For a young plant (in the first year) no feeding is required. But, starting from the 2nd year, it is recommended to use long-acting fertilizers (for example, Pokon) every spring.

When choosing a fertilizer for rhododendron, you should avoid using chlorine or calcium.

Despite the fact that the shrub has good frost resistance and recovers quickly, large temperature changes can harm azaleas. The result of this is increased fragility of the bushes. To prevent this, you need to mulch the rhododendron root circle.

If the bush is large in size, it is better to tie it up and secure it on a reliable support.

Features of reproduction

This type of Rhododendron can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering. The most successful and simplest method is layering.

• By layering - a strip of bark is removed from the lower branch (cut) and this place is pressed to the ground, fixed with a bracket. The soil in this place must be loose so that rooting can occur easily. After a year, the young seedling is ready for planting on its own.
• Seeds - sow for seedlings in winter, and it is better to plant in open ground after a year.
• Cuttings - they are cut in the spring from the apical parts; the soil requires light and loose, greenhouse conditions. This process is quite lengthy; rooting takes almost six months.

Kinds

Based on the original species of Katevbinsky rhododendron, hybrids have been bred that are distinguished by winter hardiness, the shape of the bush and inflorescences, and the color of flowers. Popular ones are:

1. Album (Catawbiense album).
2. Grandiflorum.
3. Katewbinse Burso.
4. Cunningham's White.

Despite all their differences, they have common features that emphasize their belonging to this plant species.

Album

The shape of the bush is elongated upward, its height is 3 meters. It blooms with large white inflorescences with a yellow center. Flowering lasts from the end of May to the last days of June. Withstands winter temperatures down to -30 degrees.

Grandiflorum

The most common type of Katevbinsky rhododendron, the first variety bred on the basis of a wild species. The bush has the shape of a ball with a diameter of 2.5 meters. Blooms profusely from the beginning of May for a month. Flowers are white, pink, purple, collected in inflorescences. Tolerates temperatures down to -32 degrees.

Bourso

A rhododendron hybrid, very winter-hardy (down to -32 degrees), retains all the properties of the species. The bush has a spreading shape and tends to grow in breadth.

White

The rhododendron hybrid Cunningham's White is called White. The snow-white flowers have a central petal strewn with small purple spots. The length of the petal is 5 centimeters, 9 flowers are collected in the inflorescence.

What is the difference from other types?

Rhododendron Katevbinsky, unlike many other types of evergreen Rhododendrons, has inflorescences with a wonderful subtle aroma. It is also worth noting that during the flowering period it blooms so magnificently that it has been given the name “Rose Tree”.

• The hybrid variety Katevbinse Burso is one of the most winter-hardy species, can withstand up to 30 degrees below zero, and likes to grow wide. Lilac-purple flowers are collected in large lush inflorescences.
• Purpureum hybrid is a spherical shrub with beautiful purple inflorescences (the color is very juicy), the inflorescences are large - 15 flowers each, odorless.
• Album (Catawbiense album) - this species has a slightly different shape - it is elongated upward, reaches a height of 3 m, its large flowers are white with a yellow core.

• When and how - flowering of Rhododendron Katevbinsky occurs in May - June, lasting about one month. The flowering is very intense, the inflorescences consist of 15 - 20 large flowers of various shades.
• Care before and after flowering - water well and do not forget about fertilizing, thanks to them the bush will not be depleted.
• What to do if it doesn’t bloom - it’s better to replant it in a more favorable place and water it well.

What should the soil be like?

You need loose, fertile soil, preferably slightly acidic (maybe acidic), moist, but without stagnant water.

Planting can be different: seeds and seedlings. When purchasing seedlings, it is better to choose self-rooted ones; they can be planted in spring and summer, preferably immediately in a permanent place in the garden, in partial shade.

Seeds can be sown from January to March in nutritious soil (necessarily loose), do not bury them deeply, you just need to press lightly

Water very carefully, it is best to spray the water. Before germination, the container with seeds must be covered with glass and provided with lighting 12 hours a day using a phytolamp. After the seedlings appear, remove the glass, continue to maintain humidity and lighting, and when 3 leaves grow, plant the seedlings in separate containers. In the spring or early summer, these “babies” can be planted in the garden in a suitable place protected from the winds (or a year later in the spring). They will begin to bloom after 2 or 3 years, with this planting method you can get a plant with improved properties

They will begin to bloom in 2 or 3 years, and with this planting method you can get a plant with improved properties.

Temperature

The lowest temperature that this shrub can withstand is 30 degrees below zero, and the highest is 30 degrees above zero, while the optimal temperature is from minus 10 to plus 25 degrees.

Rhododendron is very moisture-loving; in extreme heat it definitely needs deep watering about 2-3 times a week. It will also be useful in hot weather to sprinkle the bush with a hose only on the leaves. The water should be soft, preferably acidified.

1. Twice a season you need to apply organic fertilizers in this form - a bucket of cow manure and rotted compost per bush.
2. The rest of the time, fertilize with an aqueous infusion of organic matter; it is also good to add double superphosphate during the budding period; flowering will be even more magnificent.

Remove only faded buds.

It is best to replant the plant in the spring.

You need to decide in advance on the location and prepare the planting hole; it should be wide and deep enough - about 2 times larger than the root system of the bush. Add a nutrient substrate of peat, humus and well-rotted manure into it, mix everything and add drainage. We place the bush in the center of the hole, carefully add the nutrient mixture on all sides, compact it and water it. You need to pour a layer of mulch on top - you can use pine needles, sawdust or expanded clay. Before planting, the roots should be well saturated with water.

How to prepare for winter?

For the winter you definitely need:

1. Mulch the tree trunk circle of the shrub, first water it well (before frost).
2. You also need to build a reliable support from wooden stakes in the shape of a hut; you can also use covering material.

Katevba rhododendron: description of an evergreen shrub

Katevbinsky rhododendron is an evergreen shrub, which is classified as one of the most winter-hardy and vigorous plants. It grows by an average of 6-8 cm per year, and an adult bush sometimes reaches 2-3 m in height. Katevba rhododendron is distinguished by its beauty and grace (regardless of the variety or variety), so it is often planted in garden plots. But in order for the plant not to cause unnecessary problems and to delight you with its lush crown, you must follow the instructions for planting and caring for it.

Distribution and ecology

Rhododendron Katevba is found in nature mainly in cold and temperate regions of the northern hemisphere: East Asia, the Kamchatka Peninsula, Northern Australia, the mountains of Tibet, etc. Wild species first began to be cultivated in Europe in the 18th century, where botanists brought seeds and seedlings of evergreen shrubs.

Today, rhododendrons are protected by environmental organizations, since some varieties and subvarieties are classified as rare plant species.

Description of rhododendron

The shrub in adulthood reaches a height of 3 and even 4 m, and even more in diameter. At the age of 10 years, his “height” is 1.5 m. At the same time, the annual growth is 8-10 cm.

The plant has smooth dark green leaves and flowers of different shades (purple, lilac).

Despite the external beauty and splendor of its forms, Katevbinsky rhododendron has absolutely no aroma.

Flowering of Katevbinsky rhododendron

Flowering lasts only 1 month. The inflorescence includes 15-20 flowers in the form of bells of different shades - white, purple, red, yellow, etc. Until the flowering period has arrived, the shrub attracts attention with its large and smooth leaves.

If the rhododendron does not bloom, it means it lacks nutrients or the growing location is not suitable.

Winter hardiness

The frost resistance of the plant allows it to easily endure winter “stresses” (snow, wind, low temperatures, etc.). Rhododendron grown in the Moscow region has the following properties:

• relatively small size, so it fits even in the smallest garden plot;
• very high winter hardiness, including not being injured under the weight of snow.

Therefore, Katevbinsky rhododendron is able to grow even in the most severe climatic conditions.

Sub-varieties

There are different subcultivars of rhododendron, the most common of which are presented below.

Album novum

The bush is distinguished by a spherical crown shape, and reaches a height of about 3 m (in adulthood). Its long, leathery leaves are dark green in color. Blooming pink buds look unusually beautiful, so the plant is used for landscaping parks and gardens in combination with other ornamental shrubs and trees. Rhododendron Album novum begins to bloom in May.

Bourso

This variety was first cultivated in the mid-19th century. It is classified as one of the most hardy and frost-resistant plants. Burso has dark green elliptical leaves that reach 14 cm in length and 5 cm in width. The flowers have a delicate lilac hue. The height of the bush is 4 m. The flowering period begins in June.

Rhododendron must be protected from winds and scorching sun and faded inflorescences must be periodically removed. Burso is planted on lawns, lawns and garden plots.

Grandiflorum

It is distinguished by a spreading crown in the shape of a ball and bright green elliptical leaves. The shrub grows quickly and is incredibly resistant to winter cold. Its purple inflorescences have up to 15 flowers. The buds begin to bloom as early as June.

Grandiflorum is suitable for cultivation in the northwestern regions.

Roseum Elegance

This subvariety of rhododendron was first bred in England in the mid-19th century. Roseum Elegance reaches a height of approximately 3 m and has a thick and dense crown consisting of purple inflorescences with copper specks. Flowering begins in June, but with proper care it can occur again in the fall. Roseum Elegance decorates lawns and garden areas.

Planting and care

Planting and care play an important role in growing a plant, as they help to saturate it with all the necessary nutrients (proper feeding) and protect it from intolerable weather conditions such as sultry heat or wind.

Boarding time

It is recommended to plant the plant either in the spring after the frosts end, or in early autumn. In this case, the top layer of soil must be warmed up. The autumn-spring period is also suitable for transplantation.

Choosing a place and soil for planting

Evergreen shrubs must be planted in shaded areas, but away from drafts and dry wind. The ideal area is an area near a fence or tall trees. Its best neighbors can be larch, oak, apple, pear, and pine.

The soil should be acidic or slightly acidic, loose and moist. In this case, it is advisable to install an automatic irrigation system on the site.

Before planting, it is recommended to place the rhododendron in water. This will allow it to absorb moisture.

Seedling preparation

It is recommended to use a seedling that is 3 years old. Before planting, the shrub is dipped in water and kept until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the container. It is advisable to trim long roots.

Watering rules

The plant does not tolerate heat and drought well, so it must be watered thoroughly and every day. But waterlogging and stagnation of water should also not be allowed. It is useful to water rhododendron with soft, slightly acidic water a couple of times a week.

Fertilizer application

The plant absorbs a lot of nutrients, so in soils with poor mineral composition its leaves will become thin and faded.

Therefore, with the onset of spring and until the end of the flowering period, rhododendron is periodically fed. This is required by young and mature shrubs. So, the plant is suitable:

• Organic fertilizers - rotted manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15.
• Magnesium and calcium sulfate.
• Potassium nitrate.
• Horn flour.

At the beginning of spring, the soil is fertilized with nitrogen preparations, and in June - with potassium-phosphorus preparations. In July, nitrogen must be completely eliminated.

To retain moisture and nutrients in the soil for as long as possible, the plant’s trunk circle is mulched with pine needles.

Features of reproduction

Reproduction occurs in three ways:

1. Using seeds . They must be planted in mid-winter, and sowing should be superficial. For germination, you need to constantly maintain the temperature within +20 degrees. Planting in open ground is carried out no earlier than the second year of life.
2. By cuttings . To do this, take semi-lignified shoots and cut them to 5-8 cm in length, then remove the lower leaves and place them in a root growth stimulator with the cut down for 16 hours. Next, they are placed in a peat mixture with sand (3:1) and covered with polyethylene. In this case, it is important that some kind of transparent dome is formed (it must be opened during watering).
3. By layering . A small fragment of bark is removed from the branch and the shoot is pressed against the previously prepared ground with the exposed area. In about a year you should have a young plant of medium size. Subsequently, it can be disconnected and dropped off at a new location.

The rooting period for evergreen rhododendrons is 4 months.

Pests and diseases

The plant rarely gets sick, and this happens when water stagnates or the soil is incorrectly selected. Unsuitable growing conditions promote the appearance of spotting and rust. If the rhododendron is affected by the disease, it is replanted, moderate watering is provided and treated with iron chelate.

The bush can be attacked by pests such as:

To get rid of insects, fungicides are used (most often diazine and thiram).

To prevent diseases and invasion of parasites, it is recommended to spray the shoots with Bordeaux mixture every month in spring and summer.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky is a wonderful decoration for any garden plot. Although it is not too difficult to grow, it still requires certain conditions to be met. Therefore, if you provide the shrub with abundant watering and acidic soil, the plant will generously thank you with gorgeous flowering.

Selection of seedlings and planting site

It is better to choose seedlings with closed roots. You need to make sure that this variety is adapted to cold climates and can successfully withstand frosty winters. You should carefully examine the seedling and make sure that all its parts are in order and there are no signs of diseases or harmful insects.

It is advisable to choose a site for planting rhododendron with the possibility of shading during the midday hours. The scorching sun and constant shadow will be equally destructive for the plant. The best option is to plant it near the northern wall of any building.

If the groundwater level is high, it would be prudent to plant the bush on a hill, otherwise the roots will be in danger of rotting.

The soil for rhododendron is saturated with humus, with an acidic or slightly acidic reaction - pH 5.5-6.0. Preference should be given to a mixture of clay and peat in a ratio of 1: 2. Neutral and calcareous soils are harmful to the plant.

It is important not to make a mistake when choosing neighbors for rhododendron. Its roots extend into the upper layer of soil; close proximity of plants with a similar feature will negatively affect the health of the bush

The best neighbors of rhododendron are apple and pear trees, pine, spruce and larch. It is not advisable to plant it next to other trees.

Conditions for growing rhododendron Purpureum Grandiflorum

Rhododendron hybrid Grandiflorum is grown in single or group plantings. It is not advisable to plant shrubs next to trees with the same shallow root system. Stronger plants will inhibit rhododendron.

Evergreen shrubs require protection from drying winds and drafts as well as from the hot midday sun. To do this, hedges are created next to the Katevbinsky rhododendron or shrubs are planted in the partial shade of buildings and coniferous trees.

For the successful cultivation of evergreen rhododendron Grandiflorum, acidic soils are required. If there is no such soil on the site, it is created anew in a large planting hole or by laying out an entire area to create a heather corner. Pine litter gives an acidic reaction: cones, branches, needles. As well as moss and peak peat, which has a red color. Such a substrate will be constantly needed during the cultivation of rhododendron.