Indoor hydrangea care: what is the sequence of implementation?

Keeping large-leaved garden species in containers

The following describes the regime for keeping large-leaved or garden varieties of flowers in the warm and cold seasons.

From spring to autumn

At the beginning of spring, the containers are taken out of the cellar, fertilized with a mineral composition, and a layer of crushed pine needles or bark is added on top. All bad and weak shoots are completely cut off.

At the beginning of April, the pots with the plant are taken outside, protected from the cold with a special spunbond. Hydrangea should not be left in direct sunlight. By neglecting this rule, you risk ruining not only the decorative effect of the flower, but also completely destroying it.

During the spring, pots or containers with hydrangeas are placed on the southeast side, in a shaded area. After the flowers appear, it is necessary to transfer the plants to the garden

Rainwater is used for irrigation; the soil should always be moist. Important! Until the end of the summer period, it is necessary to fertilize with fertilizers once every 8-10 days.

From autumn to spring

1. Immediately after the end of the flowering period, the inflorescences are cut off until strong buds appear. If there are many shoots, they need to be thinned out.
2. Then all the shoots are tied up, and the flowers are left in containers until wintering. The leaves should completely fall off.
3. Hydrangea is kept in a dark, cool room at a temperature range of 0 to +5 degrees. As soon as the soil becomes dry, you can put snow on top or simply water it with settled water.

Hydrangeas in large pots can be kept at temperatures from +10 to -5 without fear for the safety of the plant and its rhizomes.

Below you can see how to prepare large-leaved hydrangea for wintering:

Caring for indoor hydrangeas

It is necessary to care for a hydrangea in a pot, just like a free relative in the garden, by ensuring complete isolation from drafts, otherwise the foliage will begin to wither, until the plant dies, without the possibility of any resuscitation.

Watering mode

Any variety of hydrangea should be watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. The water must be left to stand at room temperature. During the flowering period, you need to monitor watering especially carefully.

In winter, soil moisture is also necessary, because the roots should not dry out even during the dormant period.

Top dressing

In summer, hydrangea is in dire need of mineral fertilizers. Additionally, during watering, you can add a small amount of potassium permanganate, which will protect the roots from infection. Without fertilizers, the plant may not enter the flowering stage and remain just a green shrub.

During the flowering period

Blooming hydrangea cannot be replanted so as not to disrupt the natural life cycle of the flower. The air temperature in the room where the blooming beauty lives should be maintained within the range from +18˚С to +22˚С. These are comfortable indications for all varieties.

During the rest period

When the hydrangea has retired, it needs to be moved to a place where the air does not warm up above +9 and does not cool below +5. If a flower is left on the windowsill all winter at room temperature, it will not feel the winter and will not bloom in the new season. For apartments, a balcony or an unheated staircase can become a place where the pot will sit all winter, benefiting future flowering.

Hydrangea doesn't bloom

Preparing for winter

Before wintering, all diseased or weak shoots are cut off, leaving no chance of infecting the entire plant, because treatment is a complex process and does not always result in a positive result. Pots with a plant of any variety and age are moved to a cool place where the shoots will not be blown by winds and subject to frost.

During the dormant period, hydrangea needs to trim dead inflorescences

Growing indoor varieties of hydrangea means bringing joy and bright colors to the windowsill. Indoor hydrangea does not require complex care at home and is ready to surprise with its shades. Following simple rules regarding temperature and frequency of watering will ensure abundant flowering almost all summer and all autumn.

Flower location, light and temperature conditions

Eastern and western windows are suitable for placing a pot of hydrangea. When the plant is exposed to direct and prolonged sunlight, it becomes stained and does not feel well, which is reflected in its appearance.

Note! The flower can be placed not on the window, but in another place with diffused lighting.

Do not forget that the flower comes from the subtropics and loves moist air. In summer, especially on hot days, the flower needs to be sprayed daily in the morning.

The pot with the plant can also be placed in a container of water according to the drainage level. This will increase the humidity of the surrounding air and moisten the soil in the pot.

Hydrangea loves plenty of watering and care. It does not tolerate drying out; you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture. But the plant will not grow in a swamp, so the drainage in the pot must be at least 3 cm so that the roots do not begin to rot.

Potted hydrangea in the garden

Important! In summer, if possible, the pot can be taken out to the balcony, into the garden or planted in open ground; the flower likes fresh air, but without drafts.

The plant feels comfortable at room temperature, but does not tolerate heat and sudden temperature changes.

Hydrangea is a magnificent miracle

In general, large-leaved hydrangea is an undemanding plant. Growing for one season will not create any difficulties at all; even a beginner can cope. But maintaining this beauty for many years will require some effort. This applies to creating conditions for wintering, regular watering, pruning and care in the event of extreme weather conditions. But for the efforts spent, the plant will reward you with long, continuous flowering of large, lush and very beautiful inflorescences, the shade of which can be adjusted with your own hands at will. Hydrangea will undoubtedly decorate both the house and the garden.

Hydrangea varieties for home cultivation

The most favorite type of most gardeners is large-leaved hydrangea (macrophyll), which includes a large number of varieties. The most popular varieties are those with pink flowers:

• Hamburg;
• Goliath;
• Europe.

Based on large-leaved hydrangea, breeders have created many varieties with different colors, even changing from one color to another. In addition to pink ones, the most common are varieties with blue and white flowers:

• Sister Teresa;
• With classic white flowers;
• Prima;
• Goliath with white and blue flowers;
• Compact.

Based on large-leaved hydrangea, breeders have created many varieties with different colors, even changing from one color to another

COMMON TYPES:

⦁ Tree-like. It is distinguished by large white spherical inflorescences, with a long flowering period from July to November. The bush is capable of reaching three meters in height. Representatives of the species are quite unpretentious, resistant to frost, and also shade-tolerant.

⦁ Paniculate. The inflorescences are initially white panicles that turn pink, then pale purple, and then green in the fall. Flowering period - July. Resistance to cold is manifested due to lignification of shoots. The average lifespan of this species is 40 years.

⦁ Petiolate (climbing) is a vine with shoots up to 2.5 meters long. A distinctive feature of this species is that it is possible to grow them on various types of supports and give them the shape of a tree.

⦁ Sargenta is a shrub that has practically no branching thick shoots, inflorescences of large and small umbrella-shaped flowers, growing vertically. Due to the fact that indoor hydrangea has a variety of varieties, everyone can choose a flower to their taste.

Replanting after purchase

You can replant hydrangea only after it has bloomed and the annual pruning has already been done. At this time, the plant prepares for a period of rest and stops its growth. If the plant was purchased in the fall, two weeks after the hydrangea appeared at home, it can be carefully transplanted into a permanent pot. She needs two weeks of rest to adapt to the new room, temperature and air movement patterns.

What is needed for planting

The new pot should be 3-4 cm wider than the previous one. The roots of any variety of hydrangea develop more horizontally than deep, so deep pots are not suitable for it.

The capacity needs to be increased every autumn, allowing the root system to grow and nourish the plant during the period of active flowering.

Optimal place

To ensure abundant and regular flowering, the flower must stand in a sufficiently illuminated area, and not be exposed to direct sunlight. If the room where the hydrangea will live has east or west windows, it should be placed not on the windowsill, but near the window, on the outside of the tulle. This way she will receive enough light, and her leaves will not be damaged by the aggressive sun.

On a north or south window, this indoor beauty can be placed without fear by its leaves directly on the windowsill.

Step by step planting process

Transplantation should begin with the preparation of the earthen mixture. The soil must contain sand and peat, their total share should not exceed 1 part, in relation to turf soil, which requires 2 parts. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the new pot. It is unacceptable to include humus in the substrate.

Step by step transplant process:

Prepare a pot lined with drainage. Watering the soil with the plant still in the old pot will make the transfer process easier, preserving the earthen lump. After turning the flower pot over, carefully remove it, holding it by the stems, and then immediately lower it into a new pot. Fill the voids between the rhizome and the walls of the container with substrate so that there are no air gaps left. Once transplanting is complete, water thoroughly.

Additional Information. Replanting hydrangea in the spring can affect its flowering, for which the plant was purchased. Having lost its biological rhythm, hydrangea transplanted in spring will bloom only by next winter.

Landing

It is recommended to plant hydrangeas in central Russia at the onset of early spring; in the fall this can be done only in those regions where there are no harsh winters and only if the seedling has well-developed roots. Before spring planting, you need to trim the roots a little and it is advisable to remove all annual shoots. Since hydrangea’s roots are not capable of penetrating deep layers of soil, it is advisable to exclude proximity to plants that have a superficial type of root system. Since a struggle for moisture and nutrients may begin, which may result in weakened crops that do not produce the desired flowering.

Planting hydrangeas as a hedge

When planting single hydrangea bushes, for each one you need to prepare a hole 35–40 cm deep, 50–70 cm wide, its volume should be no less than the crown of the plant. If you plan to plant a hedge, then you need to dig a strip, the width of which will be equal to one meter. The distance between bushes should be left from 1.5 to 2.5 meters, depending on the plant variety.

Fertilizers must be added to the hole in the form of:

• urea;
• superphosphate in granules;
• potassium sulphide;
• organics.

Important! After such planting, the plant will have enough of these fertilizers for two years, and then it will need to be fed several times a season. Algorithm of actions when landing:

Algorithm of actions when landing:

Remove the plant shoot from the pot with a lump of earth and carefully shake it off; Spread the roots and lower them into the prepared hole; Cover with soil and fertilizers so that the root ball protrudes slightly above the level of the site; Compact and water the soil generously. Do mulching.

Mulch is needed to keep the soil moist longer, which is very important for normal hydrangea growth. For it you can use pine needles, various types of sawdust and peat

The optimal thickness is about 10 cm. In summer, the mulch should be loosened 2-3 times.

In the first year after planting, you should not expect lush flowering of the plant, so there will be no quick decorative effect. The solution may be to plant a 4-5 year old seedling, which is already capable of producing large inflorescences.

Reproduction options

Hydrangea is grown from seeds at home if vegetative propagation is not possible. Hybrid varieties are not propagated by seeds collected with one’s own hands.

• Division. The easiest way. During transplantation, the plant is removed from the ground, the rhizomes are freed from the ground, and divided into two parts. An adult, heavily grown plant can be divided into more parts. The roots and shoots are shortened, and the divisions are planted in separate pots.
• By cuttings. Cuttings are cut at the end of winter or the very beginning of spring. Cut from root shoots. 3-4 internodes are left on each cutting. The lower leaves are cut off completely, the upper leaves are cut in half. The cutting is placed at a slight angle in a peat-sand mixture, and the soil is slightly moistened. Before rooting, keep under cover, systematically water and ventilate. Roots appear on average within a month. Wait about two weeks and transplant into a permanent pot with a complete soil mixture.
• Seeds. Sown at the end of winter. Use light, nutritious, breathable soil. Seeds are distributed over the surface of the substrate without being buried. Soil is not sprinkled. Keep under film, ventilate daily and spray with a spray bottle. At the stage of 2-3 true leaves, they are picked into separate cups.

Air humidity

This is an important indicator both for the person himself and for his green pets. It is very good if you have a humidifier. Hydrangea is moisture-loving. This applies not only to watering, but also to the moisture contained in the air. If you notice that the tips of the leaves are curling and drying out, then it’s time to think about a natural humidifier or a special device that regularly micro-sprays water.

This is not a mandatory but desirable condition. Growing hydrangea in pots has many subtleties, and if you want to see your plant lush and in bloom, then you must adhere to this rule. As already mentioned, at low humidity the tips of the leaves begin to dry out. The plant's immunity drops and it becomes easy prey for pests, such as spider mites.

Hydrangea responds well to regular spraying. Only during budding and flowering should you try not to get on the plant. Otherwise, water stains remain, which spoils the overall appearance of the plant. During this period, you can choose a different method of air humidification. For example, place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and add water. The second option is to place an aquarium nearby. And of course, for all procedures you need to use soft, settled water.

Errors in care

Another reason why hydrangea does not bloom is two mistakes in care, insufficient fertilizer and too little water. In both cases, the plant can produce buds and even develop some flowers, but the inflorescences will be anemic and small, withering and turning yellow in the summer. If the bushes are not watered regularly, daily, the plants are unlikely to survive until the next season.

Fertilizer is also important. Flowering shrubs need a lot of nutrients

Because the shrub has large leaves and produces many huge inflorescences, it requires a lot of nutrients. You should fertilize 3-4 times a year if you use granular fertilizer or every second watering if you use water-soluble fertilizers.

The use of fertilizers is closely related to the resistance of the shrub to frost!

Spring and summer. In spring, you can apply complex fertilizer Agricola Aqua. A plant strengthened with nutrients is more resistant to adverse environmental factors, grows faster and produces more flower buds.

Autumn. From mid-July you need to stop using nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen stimulates plants to create new shoots and green mass; hydrangeas should be ready for winter rest from August.

However, it is worth using special autumn fertilizers to expand the root system, so that the plants will be better prepared for winter.

Why do hydrangeas need to be pruned?

If the hydrangea is not pruned, then it will take on a neglected and ugly appearance. The inflorescences will become small and flowering will decrease. But thanks to pruning, the inflorescences will be large and lush. Main tasks when pruning:

1. Plant rejuvenation.
2. Crown formation.
3. Pruning for powerful growth of new shoots.
4. Thinning.
5. Removing frozen and weak branches.

After spring rejuvenating pruning of hydrangea paniculata there will be few flowers, but they will be very large.

Methods for propagating home hydrangea

At home, you can propagate hydrangea in three ways:

Dividing the bush

This is the simplest method of reproduction, which requires great care and compliance with certain rules:

• the bush is divided during annual transplantation;
• all shoots must have a sufficient number of roots and a growing point;
• The shoots and roots of the divisions are first shortened, and only then they are planted in pots and watered.

Bushes divided and planted in spring will take root well by autumn.

Propagation by seeds

Indoor hydrangea propagates by seeds at the end of winter. The soil for sowing should consist of humus, turf and leaf soil (1:1:1). Seeds are sown on the surface of the soil mixture. There is no need to embed them in the soil. The container with the crops is covered with film or glass on top.

Every day, crops should be ventilated and moistened with a sprayer. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always slightly moist. When the first shoots appear, the film or glass is removed.

As soon as two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be transplanted into a deeper container with the same soil composition. Grown and strengthened seedlings are planted in pots, the diameter of which should be no more than seven centimeters.

Hydrangea cuttings

Experienced gardeners propagate hydrangea by cuttings, as this is the most reliable way to propagate it.

In January-February, cuttings 7-8 cm long are cut from the basal shoots of the plant. Each segment should have up to three internodes. On the upper part of the cutting, the leaves are shortened by a third or half, and from the lower part they are completely removed.

The segments are treated with a root stimulator, planted in a sand and peat substrate, watered and covered with glass jars. This method of keeping them will help prevent the soil from drying out and will maintain optimal air humidity for the development of cuttings.

The container with seedlings should be kept in the brightest place at room temperature 18-20C. After three to four weeks, the cuttings will take root and can be planted in separate pots.

From cuttings rooted in January-February, a bush of 3-4 shoots will grow by autumn. If cuttings are carried out in March-April, the result will be a hydrangea with one stem.

Only caring owners who follow all the rules of care and requirements for temperature conditions, soil selection, lighting and watering will be able to observe the luxury of hydrangea flowering. But such care is worth it. After all, this beautiful plant will look fresh and fashionable in any setting and in any interior. It can be used to decorate residential and industrial premises, winter gardens, balconies, terraces and flower beds.

Brief description of cultivation

1. Bloom. It begins to grow in April, flowering ends in November.
2. Lighting. The light should be bright, but at the same time diffused. It is enough to place the bush near a window with a southern orientation (at a distance of 200-300 cm).
3. Temperature conditions. During the growing season - about 20 degrees, and during the dormant period from 7 to 10 degrees.
4. Watering. During the summer months, shrubs require abundant and frequent watering. In spring and autumn, water less frequently and moderately. During the dormant period, water sparingly and rarely.
5. Humidity. The shrub requires high air humidity. On hot days, the plant should be moistened as often as possible with a sprayer.
6. Fertilization. Fertilization takes place between February and October. Use a mineral complex for flowering plants (heathers, azaleas and rhododendrons) and fertilize the soil twice a month. In winter, it does not need to be fertilized.
7. Rest period. Observed in December and January.
8. Transfer. For indoor hydrangeas, this is done only annually, and their lifespan is 3-4 years.
9. Trimming. After the shrubs bloom in the fall, trim back weak shoots and cut back strong shoots to ½ length. In the spring, trim off all weak shoots that have become very elongated during the dormant period.
10. Spreading. Cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds.
11. Pests. Spiders and aphids.
12. Diseases. Downy mildew and gray mold.

Growing large-leaved hydrangea in a pot: everything you need to know

Large-leaved hydrangea is a real beauty. Juicy green leaves and large caps of bright inflorescences make it a real decoration of the garden, but there is one “but”: the heat-loving beauty does not always winter safely in the open ground. Very often, even with shelter, the shoots of the bush freeze and thus deprive gardeners of the pleasure of admiring the flowering next season, which is the main advantage of the plant. However, not everything is so sad and there is a good way to avoid such a situation and preserve flower buds - to grow hydrangea as a potted crop. Of course, this changes its care a little, but, in general, it won’t cause much trouble; moreover, it’s much easier to care for a compact bush. But what exactly needs to be done is what we’ll talk about today.

Trimming

The pruning procedure is mandatory in order to maintain the attractive appearance of the plant. For this procedure you will need a well-sharpened knife or pruning shears. The cut should be sharp and even.

During pruning, weak leaves and stems that have begun to dry out or rot are removed. It is also necessary to trim the top of the plant in order to form a more luxuriant crown.

It is ideal to prune twice a year. This is in the fall, when the flowering period has passed, you need to remove weakened leaves and in the spring, when you need to remove weakened shoots.

During the flowering period, the pruning procedure stops. It begins when the first faded flowers or leaves appear. They are the ones that need to be removed so that the plants do not rot.

Hydrangea care at home photo: main nuances of content

Indoor hydrangea, which is properly cared for at home, will definitely thank you for your efforts with long and lush flowering.

Temperature and lighting

When deciding on a location for it, it is important to choose one where direct rays of the sun will not fall, but where there will be plenty of light. The ideal distance for hydrangea would be 2-3 meters from the window.

In this case, development will be normal, and light spots will not appear on the leaves.

As for temperature, the main thing is to avoid sudden fluctuations and protect the hydrangea from drafts. 19-22°C is exactly the indicator at which the flowers will feel as comfortable as possible. It is best to put hydrangea away for the winter in a dark, cool room (up to 9°C), for example, in a cellar, and return it back to the room closer to February. Without such a decrease in temperature, the plant will bloom only next year.

Indoor hydrangea care at home photo: watering and fertilizing

The second name of the flower, hydrangea (literally “a tub of water”), speaks of a great love for water. Hydrangea at home requires regular and generous watering in the summer, and more moderate watering in the off-season. In winter, you need to especially carefully control the amount of moisture in the flowerpots to avoid rotting of the root system and death of the plant.

Melt, rain or settled water is great for hydrangeas. Occasionally you can add lemon juice (5-7 drops per liter). This will help prevent the leaves from turning yellow. Systematic spraying and, of course, keeping the flower pots themselves away from heating appliances will help prevent them from drying out.

It is necessary to add organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil in the summer to speed up the development and flowering time of hydrangeas. Spraying with gibberellin (0.1 g per 1 liter of liquid) is also excellent for such purposes. With the appearance of the first flowers, a weak solution of manganese can be added to the irrigation water, and in winter, fertilizers can be abandoned altogether.

Indoor hydrangea care at home video

To better understand, watch the video in which Candidate of Biological Sciences, Elya Mamedova, confirms that this unpretentious plant can look flawless and truly excellent even for beginners.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bMKtqDtGHpg

Propagation by cuttings

Growing indoor hydrangea is quite simple, and even a novice gardener can cope with the task. Start the procedure in early February, then by the end of the year you will get strong bushes with 3-4 branches. For cuttings, use root shoots. Cut these shoots into pieces 7-8 cm long. Make sure that each cutting has at least three internodes.

Remove the lower leaves of the branches, and cut the upper plates to a third of the length. Dip the cuttings in a growth stimulator and deepen them 2-3 cm into a mixture of peat and sand. Cuttings of home hydrangea quickly take root in this substrate.

How to care for planting? Maintain a temperature near the branches from +18 to +20 °C and humidity - 75-80%. It is easier to create such an environment if you cover the cuttings with glass jars. But do not forget to ventilate the planting daily and periodically spray the soil with warm water from a spray bottle.

After 3-4 weeks, when the cuttings take root, accustom them to the open air. To do this, remove the cover for an hour, then two and gradually increase the time. Transplant the stronger branches into individual containers with a diameter of 7-9 cm.

Botanical description of hydrangea and its species

The plant, in the form of a compact spherical bush with pointed, large, rich green leaf blades, begins to bloom in the spring and ends in late autumn. The inflorescences have racemose and umbellate shapes with two types of flowers:

• sterile (with large petals located at the edges);
• forming seeds (small, in the central part of the inflorescence).

The shape of the inflorescences resembles large balls (up to 30 cm in diameter), which have different colors: blue, pink, cream, pale white. One bush forms up to 7 inflorescences located on the tops of the shoots, the size of which depends on their number: the more pieces, the smaller the size.

Hydrangea (hydrangea) is a decorative flowering perennial of the Hydrangeaceae family.

Experts note several interesting features of the plant:

• The color of the flowers depends on the composition of the soil. With increased acidity, blue and blue shades are obtained. Alkaline soil will result in a pink color, and neutral soil will result in a white or slightly creamy color.
• The beginning inflorescences are very delicate. One touch could kill him. Therefore, it is not recommended to remove drying flowers.

According to various sources, there are about 80 species of the hydrangea family in the world, which grow in China, Japan, America and the Far East. Not all of them are grown at home.

Flower growers breed indoor and garden hydrangeas in the form of shrubs and trees

The gardens contain shrubs, vines and trees. The most famous types include:

• Large-leaved hydrangea, growing up to 2 m, is decorative not only with large inflorescences, but also with dark green leaves with jagged edges. For cultivation in open ground in Russia, only cold-resistant varieties are cultivated. Low-growing species are selected for indoor breeding.
• Paniculate hydrangea, which is more cold-resistant and reaches a height of 50 cm. At the end of the summer, white flowers bloom on the shrub, the color of which turns into crimson and purple. After winter, it is recommended to perform formative pruning of the bush.
• Chereshkova. It has small bright green glossy foliage and flexible shoots with aerial roots, thanks to which the plant can cling to neighboring trees or building walls. There are whitish-green inflorescences along the entire stem.
• Oakleaf. A little more than 1m high. It has leaves similar to oak leaves, changing color with the onset of cold weather.

Garden pruning of hydrangeas that bloom on the shoots of the current year

These types of plants grow new stems every spring, and later in the summer season, flowers form on them. These varieties bloom later than usual. The formation of a paniculata hydrangea bush in the fall occurs before the buds appear. Tree hydrangea also blooms on shoots of the current genus. But before you prune your tree hydrangea in the fall, read the following recommendations and rules:

• Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter and when? If you decide to prune the stems in winter, then cut off a third of them, this increases the efficiency of flower formation, so feel free to start breeding in winter.
• If you want strong stems and don't worry about the flowers being smaller in diameter, then prune the flowers in the fall.

Shoots that are pruned

Before you form a standard hydrangea or any other, you need to know which shoots need to be cut off and which ones should be left alone.

Trimmed stems include intertwined or dead stems that cannot be saved. To remove them, use ordinary scissors or a lopper. Thanks to this, the plant will be freed up, get better air access and become stronger. You need to leave a couple of supporting branches, since hydrangea flowers are not light.

Transplanting hydrangea into a new pot

Flower growers do not consider the houseplant hydrangea to be capricious; you still need to know how to care for it in order to grow a healthy flower.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Autumn is the best time to propagate a plant by dividing the bush. During this period, active vegetative growth stops, so dividing the bush and replanting the hydrangea easily tolerates. This is one of the easiest methods of reproduction.

Additional Information! You can grow hydrangea from seeds. They can be purchased at any flower shop. The disadvantage of seed propagation is the duration of growing seedlings.

The process of propagation by dividing the bush:

• the bush is taken from an old pot;
• the plant is divided into several parts so that shoots and live buds are in equal numbers on each of them;
• the pot is half filled with soil;
• a separated part of the plant is placed in the center of the pot;
• the pot is filled to the top with soil.

At the end of planting, you need to water the bush generously with warm water. Some parts can be planted in open ground if the bush has grown too much and there is no longer enough space for it at home.

Pruning and replanting a bush

Caring for hydrangea mix at home involves regular pruning and replanting of the flower. Pruning is carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn. If necessary, you can additionally trim the bushes in the summer.

Attention! In summer, mostly only faded inflorescences are cut off, which spoil the appearance of the plant. You can also trim off yellowed leaves.

In autumn, pruning is carried out after flowering. The procedure is necessary in order to prepare the flower for winter. Using sharp pruning shears, cut off the entire leafy part almost to the root. The cut areas can be sprinkled with wood ash to prevent diseases.

In spring, all weak and overly elongated shoots of colored hydrangea must be cut off.

When transplanting for soil use:

• humus;
• coarse river sand;
• peat;
• turf;
• leaf soil.

You need to take two parts of leaf soil and humus, and one part of all other ingredients. All ingredients are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous substrate is obtained. During planting, drainage (expanded clay or small pebbles) is usually poured into the bottom of the pot, and then soil. Drainage is necessary so that if the soil becomes waterlogged, the root system does not begin to rot too quickly.

Using soil you can change the shade of the inflorescences. Hydrangea is an unusual plant. It, like litmus paper, reacts to changes in soil composition. If you acidify the soil, the color of the inflorescences will be more saturated.

In soil with neutral acidity, hydrangea flowers will be white or cream in color. In slightly acidic soil, the inflorescences acquire a bluish color. And if the soil is acidic, the flowers become a rich pink or lilac hue. To increase the acidity of the soil, you need to add sawdust, peat, and coniferous soil to it.

Note! Hydrangea needs to be replanted every year. She lives at home for no more than 3-4 years

Then you need to plant a new plant.

Plant nutrition

Growing home hydrangea is impossible without regular application of mineral and organic fertilizers. The type and amount of fertilizing depends on the time of year and growing season.

Spring

Pink hydrangea - how to care for pink hydrangea in the garden

Caring for garden hydrangea in the spring is aimed at stimulating future buds and active growth of the shrub. Nitrogen is responsible for all this. In spring, the main feedings are potassium sulfate and urea. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 tbsp. l. each substance. Stir the solution thoroughly. One adult bush should require 5 liters of fertilizer.

During the appearance of hydrangea buds, phosphorus and potassium are required. Superphosphate can be used as a fertilizer

Summer

In summer, organic matter and complex mineral fertilizers need to be added to the soil. “Kemira flower”, “Agricola” and nitrophoska are suitable for this. Organic fertilizers include slurry (diluted 1:10) and an infusion of nettle leaves with chicken droppings.

Additional Information! In summer, the bush is fertilized no more than three times throughout the entire season. For abundant flowering, one feeding per month is enough.

Hydrangea after fertilizing

Autumn

At this time, the plant is being prepared for winter, so feeding should be aimed at increasing immunity so that the flower survives the winter. Stop adding nitrogen. The last time it can be submitted is in early September. In autumn, they stop feeding the flower until spring.

In winter, fertilizing is usually not applied. You will have to resort to this measure only if the plant gets sick at this time of year and you need to further stimulate the immune system.

The importance of fertilizing lies not only in preparing the bush for winter or increasing the duration of flowering, but also in preventing the appearance of pests and diseases. A weakened plant quickly begins to hurt even with the slightest disturbance in care. The danger of diseases is that many of them cannot be treated and the bush has to be thrown out. Also, all other flowers in the house can become infected from a diseased plant.

Main problems and solutions

Is there something wrong with your hydrangea? Below we will look at the most common problems.

Indoor hydrangea does not bloom

If the plant is still young, there is nothing to worry about: the first time a hydrangea can bloom even after 5 years.

If everything was fine before, the problem may be due to the fact that the flower was pruned before wintering. Buds will no longer appear on new shoots; they needed last year's ones. The lack of light and fertilizing can also have an effect, as well as their abundance.

“What should I do then?” - newcomers ask in panic. Take care of your plant, observing the golden mean in all aspects of care. Almost always all problems (if they are not insect damage) come down to the consumption of light and water.

My hydrangea is turning yellow

Often the cause is a lack of acid in the soil. Try watering the flower with water acidified with lemon juice.

My hydrangea leaves have dry spots and thinning.

This is an obvious burn of the leaves: remove the flower from the sun, look for a more shaded place to permanently locate the pot.

There are yellow spots on the leaves of my hydrangea and a gray coating on the back side.

This powdery mildew is a frequent visitor to homes with young plants. Their affected shoots need to be removed, or it would be better to burn them, and the flower should be treated with special fungicides.

My hydrangea leaves are covered in brown growths.

This is rust, most likely caused by overwatering or heavy fertilizing.

Diseased leaves are removed and, as is the case with all such lesions, the hydrangea is treated with fungicides.

Someone has settled on my hydrangea

A sticky web indicates the appearance of a spider mite, which can be removed with a soap solution or chemicals from specialized stores.

Leaf aphids are clearly visible: small pests swarm on the leaves. They can be removed by applying tobacco ash or special chemicals.

Don't be afraid to plant this beautiful flower for dreamers. A noble and surprisingly bright hydrangea will decorate the house with rich, pointed foliage and caps of small flowers that look like colored clouds. A little “discipline” and it will bloom happily. Good luck with your care!

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Diseases and pests

Among the possible diseases, hydrangea is affected by chlorosis, rot, and powdery mildew. At the first signs of trouble, the bushes are sprayed with systemic fungicides. Pests that like to feast on the crop are aphids and spider mites.

Hydrangea: care in autumn and winter at home

Despite the fact that hydrangea is quite thermophilic, it is important for the plant in an apartment to ensure the correct temperature conditions in the autumn-winter period. If this is not done, the hydrangea will not bloom next year or will die altogether.

Preparing hydrangea for the dormant period begins with the arrival of autumn. With the first cold weather, the plant is limited in watering and stopped feeding

Please pay attention to these important points:

Light mode.

After active flowering is completed, the hydrangea is pruned and the flower pot is sent to a cool and dry room.

Never deprive your hydrangea of ​​sunlight. If you want to move the flower to a shaded room, gradually accustom the hydrangea to shorter daylight hours.

When the flower is completely dormant, the amount of light will not matter significantly.

Temperature regime.

Hydrangea must be protected from sudden changes in temperature. Although the optimal air temperature for hydrangea is 15–22 °C, the plant should overwinter at a temperature of 5–9 °C. The decrease in temperature should be gradual.

The best option for keeping hydrangeas in the winter-autumn period is a dry, ventilated room - a basement or semi-basement.

To awaken, it is worth returning hydrangea to the room at the very end of winter or early spring. A signal that a flower is ready for a new growing season is the sprouting of buds.

Do not immediately bring hydrangea into a warm room. Like leaving for the winter, the return of the flower to the room should be gradual, without a sharp change in temperature.

Watering hydrangeas during wintering is kept to a minimum. The earth ball in the pot is moistened as needed so that the soil does not dry out at all.

Replanting, pruning or feeding a flower during dormancy is strictly prohibited.

If you need to transplant the hydrangea into a larger container, it is better to do this after flowering. Young plants are replanted annually. Copies older than 3 years - once every 2-3 years.

The choice of hydrangeas for growing at home is limited by the availability of space and desire. Breeders offer gardeners more than 85 types of hydrangeas.

Some of them require increased attention and are demanding in terms of living conditions. Other types cause virtually no trouble. The most popular and unpretentious species are tree hydrangea, paniculate and large-leaved.

If you follow the recommendations for caring for hydrangea, almost any of them can be domesticated. Large-leaved hydrangea is considered the most decorative plant variety.

Give the hydrangea a little time and surround it with care. In return, the plant will delight you with lush and vibrant flowering year after year.

General Tips

Despite the fact that the plant is a heat-loving plant, hydrangeas can be grown in the Moscow region, Siberia and the Urals. As for the last two regions, paniculate shrubs can be grown there in open ground conditions. Dwarf varieties are mainly used because they have a developed root system, which, even with severe freezing of the above-ground part of the plant, contributes to the revival of the bush.

When planting hydrangeas in areas with cold winters, experienced gardeners advise the following:

1. Choose only those plant varieties that are intended for growing in cold climates (“Vanilla Fraise”, “Sunday Frize”, “Pink Lady”, “Pink Diamond”).
2. For planting, you need to take only strong 5-year-old seedlings.
3. Seedlings should be planted in open ground with the arrival of spring. At the same time, young bushes must be covered until the frost passes.

Growing hydrangea in a garden plot is quite simple, because the plant is easy to care for, can take root well in any soil and does not get sick very often. What is noteworthy is that hydrangea inflorescences can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil. This feature makes it possible to use the plant for spectacular decoration of a personal plot.

Hydrangea home planting and care

It is recommended to carry out annual plant replanting in the autumn - after flowering has completed.

Indoor hydrangea care and replanting

A suitable soil would be a mixture of turf and leaf soil, peat and regular sand in proportions 2:1:0.5:1

It is also important not to forget about good drainage

You can achieve a certain shade of hydrangea flowers by changing the acidity of the soil in which it will be grown. For blue, you need to take more acidic soil, white and beige petals will bloom in neutral, and for pink, alkaline soil is ideal. Also

This phenomenon is explained by the ability of plants to accumulate aluminum. You can oxidize the soil using pine needles, peat or sawdust, and to alkalize it, add a little ash, chalk or lime. In addition, there are special fertilizers from Color Me that contain the necessary elements to give the hydrangea the desired color.

Hydrangea roots tend to grow wide. Pots should be low and wide enough. Each new flowerpot should be 1.5 times larger than the previous one.

Home hydrangea care and pruning

After flowering, the bush must be trimmed, leaving only healthy stems. Weak shoots, as well as the top of the flower, should be disposed of so that a beautiful and lush bush can form in the future.

How to propagate hydrangea at home

Home hydrangea propagates in two ways: division or cuttings. During transplantation, an adult flower can be carefully divided into two or more bushes. For cuttings, as a rule, small young shoots (up to 6 cm long) are selected, the sections are lubricated with a special preparation Kornevin and placed under a cap in moist soil. They are getting along great.

Trimming steps

Removing old colors

As soon as they wilt, carefully cut them back using hand shears. Place clamps under the inflorescence at the top of the stem, and so on with each

At the same time, you can remove dead or dying shoots by cutting them off at the root.

Removing the oldest shoots. If the hydrangea is more than 3 years old, then the splendor of its flowering will diminish over time and you can no longer fully enjoy its beauty. But all this is reversible; you just need to cut off (reduce) the old shoots to a third of their number. To remove thicker shoots, you should be equipped with a delimbing machine. These stems need to be cut back to soil level.

What to do with potted hydrangea in spring?

Around the end of March, the overwintered hydrangea should be taken out of the basement, shed with warm water and fed. If necessary, the bush can be transplanted into a larger pot, and after watering, be sure to mulch it to retard the evaporation of moisture. Before “moving” outside, the pot needs to find a bright place in the house.

For feeding, it is better to use a special long-acting complex fertilizer for hydrangeas (in granules). Coniferous litter or pine bark is well suited as mulch - rotting, it additionally acidifies the soil, and hydrangea loves this.

You can take hydrangea into the garden no earlier than the end of April, or even in May, but at first take it into the house at night or cover it with agrofibre so that the bush does not suffer from return frosts.

Particular attention should be paid to the location of the hydrangea in the garden, because it does not like too bright lighting, which will cause the flowers to fade. While there are no buds, the east side is best

And during flowering, it is worthwhile to completely remove the bush under a canopy so that the sun hits it only in the evening.

Growing seedlings from seeds using the seedling method

Thanks to this method, it is possible to obtain earlier and more abundant flowering. However, the method is labor-intensive, since it requires several pickings and keeping the seedlings indoors for 2 years. To obtain friendly shoots, you need to germinate the planting material. It is immersed in a container with warm water and absorbent material.

Collection for germination

You can place the seeds between two layers of cotton wool or gauze, add boiled water, and leave for 2 days. If mucus with an unpleasant odor appears, you need to urgently rinse the contents and soak again. When the hydrangea seeds swell and roots appear, you can plant them as seedlings in a container.