Essay: maintenance, reproduction, care, description, pests, photo, video

Episcia belongs to the Gesneriaceae family, which is widely represented in indoor floriculture. The name of the genus Episcia comes from the Greek “episkios” - dark, shaded, it contains from 30 to 40 species of plants. In English sources, the epics are called: “Flame Violet”, which means “Purple Flame”, “Peacock Plant” (Peacock Flower), “Chameleon Plant” (Chameleon Plant) or “Orange african violet”.

The homeland of Episcia is the tropical forests of Brazil, Mexico, Colombia, Guinea, Suriname and the Antilles. In nature, they grow as low, creeping herbs with many lateral shoots in shady, moist places under trees.

General view of the plant and its varieties

Episcia belongs to the same family as Gloxinia and Saintpaulia - Gesneriaceae.
The named representatives of tropical fauna have long won the hearts of indoor gardeners. Episcia is still not very common at home, but interest in it is steadily growing. The description of the plant looks like this:

1. The stem is herbaceous, quite flexible. The surface is pubescent.
2. The leaves are arranged oppositely or alternately along the shoots.
3. The shape of the plates is wide oval. Most varieties have several colors.
4. The flowers have 5 petals. They emerge from the sinuses singly or in bunches. Color depends on the species.
5. The underground part is a thick tuberous shoot on which there are short, thin roots.

Episcia, like strawberries, produces “whiskers” with a rosette at the end. This fact makes it possible to grow it in hanging pots as a hanging crop.

In the natural environment, the genus Episcia includes about 40 species. However, only a few of them are found at home:

• Episcia copper. A common look in hobbyist rooms. The stems are held straight. Olive green leaves are surrounded by a brown border. The veins are bright, silver, with a different shade depending on the variety. The petals of the buds are red or orange.
• Episcia lilac. Leaves with dense teeth along the edges are colored red-violet. The veins are clearly visible. Each variety has its own color. The buds are larger than those of the previous species. The petals have serrated edges and are colored blue or pale lilac.
• Episcia dianthus. Ampel variety. The leaves are round, small, densely covered with villi. The color of the plates is bluish-green. The buds are large, white, with a needle-like fringe along the edge.
• Episcia creeping. The leaf of the plant changes color depending on the conditions. In shade the plate is silvery-green. In the sun it turns brown. This feature distinguishes all varieties and hybrids of the creeping variety. The petals are scarlet, with a fringe along the edge.

3.Varieties:

3.1.Episcia Emerald Velvet

Beautiful herbaceous plants that can be safely classified as both decorative deciduous and flowering. The bushes have compact sizes and oval or heart-shaped, velvety pubescent leaves. The main shade of the leaf blades is dark green, but the veins are often highlighted in a lighter color. During the flowering period, the plant produces delicate lilac or bluish flowers with five rounded petals and a long flower tube.

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3.2. Episcia Chocolate soldier

Interesting plants with heart-shaped, glossy leaves colored in various shades of brown. Young leaves that have just appeared have the darkest, richest shade, while adult leaves fade and acquire a burgundy or light chocolate color. In the warm season, the bushes produce bright orange, pink or red flowers with long flower tubes that contrast well with the leaves.

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3.3. Episcia Lilacina - Episcia lilacina

Perennial plants with attractive, oblong-lanceolate, pubescent leaves. The main shade of the leaf blades is dark green, the central part of the leaves is colored light green, almost white. The lateral leaf veins extending from the central one are green. Unlike most episcias, which bloom with red or orange flowers, this variety has soft blue or lilac flowers.

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General description of the plant

Episcia are unpretentious heat-loving vines with a superficial root system, a thick creeping underground stem and numerous above-ground tendrils with daughter leaf rosettes.

The leaf blades - large, oval, pubescent - are colored in a wide range of green and brown tones with light, iridescent, openwork veins and spots. Mature leaves, without losing their decorative properties, remain on the stem for several years.

From late spring to late autumn, Episcia is decorated with bright flowers resembling tubular bells: snow-white, bluish, deep pink, fiery red, sunny orange. Some varieties of these plants have fringed edges of the petals.

This video provides general information about the plant:

Flowering and why episcia may not bloom

Episcia flowering

The flowering period of Episcia lasts from late spring to autumn. The flowers are tubular in shape and, depending on the species, can be red, white, lilac or yellow. With proper care it blooms very profusely. Small bell-shaped flowers almost completely cover the plant.

Why doesn't Episcia bloom? It may refuse to bloom if there is insufficient light and non-compliance with the watering regime. The pot with the plant must be moved to a brighter place, while ensuring timely watering.

When fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, episcia grows a large number of leaves to the detriment of flowering. In this case, fertilization must be temporarily stopped.

Home care

It is believed that not every gardener will be able to grow such a demanding and specific plant as dischidia. In fact, it is enough just to choose the right location and constantly maintain high air humidity. In addition, dischidia does not need frequent watering and fertilizers, which greatly simplifies its care.

At home, dischidia can be grown in 2 options:

• as an ampelous plant in hanging pots;
• as a vine on trellises or decorative bases.

Placement and lighting

Dischidia should be placed in a bright place, as it is very light-loving. But we should not forget about the high sensitivity of the plant to direct sunlight, which should be avoided. It is better if the lighting for dyschidia is diffused.

The most suitable place to place it is near the windows on the western or eastern side, where there is sufficiently good lighting.

Dischidia also grows well in artificial light, so it can be successfully grown in humid florariums, paludariums or flower displays.

Landing

Since dischidia is an epiphytic plant, it will feel comfortable on the bark of trees, to which it can be tied with wire, or in special blocks, on the bottom of which a mixture of pine bark and charcoal is laid out. The roots of the plant can also be covered with sphagnum moss.

Transfer

A young plant needs replanting once a year, an adult - once every 2-3 years or as necessary, when the roots of the plant fill the entire pot. At the bottom of the container where the plant is transplanted, you need to lay out a drainage layer consisting of expanded clay, broken bricks and pebbles.

Watering

You should not water dyschidia too often. In spring and summer, watering should be done approximately once every 2 weeks, as the top 2-3 cm layer of soil dries. In autumn and winter, watering is reduced to once a month.

Water for irrigation should be soft (filtered or boiled), room temperature and free of unnecessary impurities.

Temperature

The optimal temperature for growing dischidia should be from 25 to 30 degrees Celsius. After flowering is completed, during the plant's dormant period, the temperature should be lowered to 18-22 degrees.

Reproduction methods

Dischidia reproduce by seeds or cuttings.

When propagating by seeds you need:

• collect seeds from small pods after the plant has finished flowering;
• plant them in sand with peat or other light soil;
• sprinkle soil on top, cover with film or glass and maintain the temperature at about 20-25°C.

When propagated by cuttings:

• cut off the apical stalk about 10 cm long;
• lubricate the cut sites with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin);
• place the cut shoots in a damp sand-peat mixture;
• cover with glass or a bag and germinate at a temperature of at least +20°C;
• The cuttings are regularly ventilated and the soil is constantly moistened.

If the maintenance conditions are violated, the plant can be affected by aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites, which are attracted to the succulent foliage of dyschidia.

It is necessary to immediately wipe the plant with soapy water and treat it with insecticidal preparations (Fitoverm, Sunmite, Akarin, Aktara).

You should also pay attention to the following signs that may appear when growing dyschidia:

• red coloring of leaves (reason: excessive light);
• rotting of stems and roots (reason: waterlogging);
• absence of fleshy leaves resembling pitchers (reason: lack of moisture).

By following all the recommendations for keeping dischidia, you can easily grow this beautiful exotic plant at home. The most important thing when growing dischidia is stable care and careful observation of the plant, because dischidia itself signals uncomfortable conditions and thereby greatly simplifies self-care.

We recommend reading about other types of indoor plants, for example, Epipremnum, Fatsheder, Basella.

A few rules for those wishing to buy epics

If you were able to choose the variety you are interested in from the variety of Peacock Flower species and are planning to purchase it, you need to know a few important points before buying episcia.

It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the substrate: it should not be too wet or too dry; If the roots of the plant come out of the pot on top of the soil, this means that the flower has not been replanted for a long time, it is in a neglected state; Leaves should be free of darkening, plaque or spots. Pay attention to their integrity, uniform coloring, absence of dry areas; It is better to give preference to compact young plants; You should buy episcia in the spring: at the most favorable time for replanting a flower. The location of the episcia in the store is of great importance

The plant does not like drafts and sudden changes in temperature: it should stand further from window openings and doors

The location of the episition in the store is of great importance. The plant does not like drafts and sudden changes in temperature: it should stand further from window openings and doors.

Transplantation: selection of soil and planting site

After purchase, the episcia should be placed in a room where there will be no contact with other plants. To do this, you should choose a place with good air humidity, where there is no direct sunlight. After a short week-long isolation, the plant is ready for transplanting.

Episcia should be planted in shallow, flat pots or wide dishes with low walls.

The plant needs to have good drainage. To do this, holes are made at the bottom of the pot so that the water does not stagnate when watering. A layer of small expanded clay and pebbles at least 2 cm thick is laid down.

The soil. The substrate for epission is light, loose in consistency and not too nutritious. Good air circulation must be ensured.

For planting, you can use violet soil. Episcia will feel great in a mixture of leaf, peat soil and sand (proportions 2:1:1), to which sphagnum moss is added as a leavening agent.

Choosing a location. It is best to place the plant on the western or eastern side, where the flower will receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. In these same directions, it is impossible for direct rays to hit the episcium. You can place your pet near northern windows, but here you need to carefully monitor drafts and temperature changes.

Bright direct sunlight is contraindicated for episcia; it has a detrimental effect on the dense foliage of the plant: it curls and gradually dries out.

It is better to avoid the southern direction when choosing a place for a plant, but there is a little trick here. The ampelous epitome can be placed on a shelf or wall at a sufficient distance from the windows, where it will be protected from harmful bright light.

It is recommended to artificially illuminate the plant in winter to ensure its good condition during the severe cold period.

Reproduction

Start the propagation procedure in the spring, at which time the active movement of substances in the shoots begins and the planting material will take root well.

Cuttings

1. For propagation by cuttings, choose a rosette that is intact, without damaged leaves. Cut it carefully, using a clean and disinfectant-treated blade.
2. Most quickly, the cutting will take root separately from the mother plant, in a mixture of moss and leaf soil.
3. Another rooting option: without separating the rosette, dig it into the soil of a pot placed side by side. In this way you can create a beautiful flower “carpet” to decorate a greenhouse or loggia.

Leaves

1. To propagate by leaf, cut off a large, well-developed specimen, dry it in the air for a few minutes, sprinkle the cut area with crushed coal and plant it in the soil at a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Cover the pot with a jar to create a kind of greenhouse.
2. Maintain a temperature of 23-25 ​​degrees, but the soil should always be moist. Once a day, remove the jar for ventilation.

Seeds

Seed germination can be called experimental: it is believed that over time this method leads to the loss of varietal qualities of the plant, and the results cannot be predicted in advance.

1. You can buy seeds at a flower shop, or you can try to get them yourself. The last option is quite complicated, but interesting: it is possible to carry out artificial pollination at home only by growing several epicia with pollen sacs (anthers) yourself. When pollinating, a soft brush is used. If you do everything correctly, in a couple of months boxes with seeds will appear on the flower.
2. Planting material cannot be stored for a long time - it loses its properties. Prepare containers with a light soil mixture (from soil and vermiculite), generously sprinkle it with a solution of phytosporin and place the seeds on the surface of the soil at some distance from each other. Cover the container with cling film or glass.
3. The temperature inside should be at least 20 degrees Celsius, the soil should be moist and loose. Use a spray bottle or add water to the pan. Raise the glass every day for ventilation. If there is not enough natural light, organize artificial lighting.
4. The seeds hatch slowly, about a month. Seedlings need to be picked every 14 days in the first 8 weeks. The first fertilizer is applied seven days after transplantation. When the seedlings are 12 weeks old, pinch off the cotyledons and transplant the sprouts into separate pots.

Types of epicia

In home floriculture, several varieties of Episcia are grown:

• epic Northern Light. The leaves are small, hairless, and have a pearlescent tint. The flowers are dark red, solitary;
• Emerald velvet. The leaf is dark olive with green veins, it is large, ovoid, pubescent. The flowers are light lilac with a white core;
• epic Silver Skies. A miniature variety of culture. The leaves are green with a crimson tint, the flowers are carmine;

• Episcia Tiger Stripe. The leaves are patterned in a marsh color. They have a tiger pattern on them. Scarlet flowers;
• Episcia Strawberry Mist. The embossed leaves of a dark pink color appear red from a distance. The pearlescent tint and green veins make the plant indescribably beautiful. The flowers are orange, red with a yellow center;
• Spring Symphony episode. A silver stripe runs down the center of the large leaves. The leaf is large, textured. Olive color with a brown tint. The flowers are orange-red with jagged edges. The neck of the flower is yellow;
• Episcia Yellow Mist. The leaves are large, oval. The surface is smooth with a silver tint. The flowers are deep yellow, solitary;
• carnation Episcia Dianthiflora. The leaf shape is eleptic. The edge is noticeable. Colors are all shades of green. The flowers are white and resemble carnations;
• Forest beauty (Silvans Beauty). Glossy leaf blades with light green veins. The buds are red;

Episcia Forest Beauty

• Blue Nile. Large flowers with a lavender hue. The core is yellow;
• Harlequin. Blooms profusely, flowers are red. Leaves up to 10 cm are silvery-green with checkered shapes;
• Country Clown. Red leaves with dark edges;
• Sea Foam. The leaf is small, watercolor pink. Powerful bush with many shoots. Flowers are red;
• Pink Metallic. Olive foliage with ruby ​​coating;
• Raspberry Blush. Large red-brown leaf. The flower is red;
• Silver Sheen. Large pubescent leaves with an olive edge. The flowers are red and orange;
• Pink Panther. The leaves are lime-green with a bronze tint. Flowers with ruffled edge, pink;
• Country Kitten. Small chocolate-colored leaf blades. The flowers are red-orange;
• Brown Beauty. The leaves are textured and have a silver tint. Flowers are red;
• Brown Beauty. Velvety olive green leaves. Pink spotted flower;
• Episcia Jim Moody Rock. Quilted leaves with black diamonds;
• Lemon Lime. The leaf blade is green with a brown tint, with an emerald stripe in the middle. Flower pink;
• Strawberry Patch. Pink foliage with a metallic tint. Red-orange flower;
• Canadian Sunset. Velvety leaves of olive green color. Pink flowers with spots;
• Episcia Chocolate velor. The foliage is heavily pubescent dark brown, the flowers are lilac-blue;
• Episcia Temptation. Shiny leaves with jagged edges, red-orange flower;
• Episcia Lilacina Viridis. Large ovate dark green leaves. Lavender flowers;
• Epission of TM-Lyra. Shades from silver to pink-red along the edges of the sheets.

Episcia is a plant of exceptional beauty. Valued for its variety of leaf shapes and colors. Care has its own characteristics, but a novice gardener can do it. Propagated by cuttings to preserve genetic properties. Watering, replanting, pruning - within the limits of agricultural technology requirements.

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Peculiarities

The fluffy leaves of this flower cover unusual patterns. Scientists named the plant episcia, and the indigenous people of its homeland of South America gave it many other poetic names: violet flame, chameleon plant, peacock flower, orange or violet. Judging by these names, it is easy to understand that this flower is distinguished by its beauty and brightness. As a result of breeding work, various leaf colors appeared: silver, burgundy, purple, pearlescent and lime. A scattering of flowers makes this plant even more charming.

In its natural habitat, the creeping roots of the flower have underground shoots, and the stems cover the ground. Fibrous roots sprout shoots with rosettes of leaves. They grow tendrils that continue the plant's reproduction.

This flower has proven itself well as a home crop. Episcia can be planted both as a potted and hanging plant. First, the young shoots rush upward, and then spread their foliage to the sides. They complement the interior especially well if they are planted in hanging flowerpots at high altitudes.

Depending on the type of plant, the stem may be shorter or longer. It is dotted with closely planted leaves with fluff. The leaves are elliptical or leaf shaped. Flowers with four stamens have a variety of colors: red, purple, salmon, yellow, blue, inclusions are allowed.

Landing

The ability of this exotic plant for rapid development and growth, as well as its tropical origin, determine a number of specific requirements for planting and transplanting episcia. In order for this beautifully flowering perennial to fully develop, feel good, bloom promptly and for a long time, the following conditions must be met in the planting procedure:

• choosing a pot of suitable volume;
• high-quality soil mixture;
• competent execution technique.

When choosing a suitable pot, it is better to give preference to not very deep, but wide containers. Considering that the roots of this plant are superficial, a moderately low and spacious pot is suitable for episcia.

The optimal width of the pot is considered to be within 20 centimeters. A container of this diameter will not take up extra space on the windowsill, but at the same time will allow the roots of the flower to fully develop

It is important to ensure that there are holes at the bottom of the pot to drain excess water.

If the episcia requires a container with a much larger diameter, it makes sense to think about dividing its bush. This procedure will rejuvenate the plant and at the same time replenish the green collection with new specimens.

When planting or replanting episcia, attention should be paid to the quality and properties of the soil mixture. This exotic prefers light, moisture- and breathable mixtures with an acidity of 5.5 pH

The plant will feel quite comfortable in a soil mixture consisting of the following components:

• leaf soil - 2-4 parts;
• peat – 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

In the absence of leaf soil, this component can be replaced with a mixture for Uzambara violets. To improve the drainage of the soil mixture, it is allowed to add a small amount of charcoal and sphagnum moss. Before filling the pot, all ingredients of the soil mixture should be thoroughly mixed.

Before planting the plant, place a layer of drainage on the bottom of the new pot. It is recommended to use crushed expanded clay, clean pebbles or gravel as drainage

The soil mixture is poured over the drainage layer, after which the flower is carefully placed in the pot along with a lump of earth on the roots

Having placed the plant in a pot, add soil from the sides and compact it a little. The root collar is not deepened when planting. After the procedure, the plant needs to be provided with gentle conditions that will speed up its recovery process.

Diseases, pests

Methods for eliminating diseases and pests:

Caring for Episcia at home and plant varieties

The houseplant episcia has gained wide popularity among gardeners due to its spectacular appearance and wide variety of varieties. Not only the bright flowers of the tropical plant, but also the silvery veins covering the leaves are of decorative value. It is thanks to them that episcia is also called a “chameleon”.

There are at least 40 varieties of episcia grown at home:

• Copper;
• Lilac;
• Dianthus;
• Creeping;
• Silvery glow;
• Chocolate velor;
• Blue Nile;
• Silver sky;
• My darling;
• Chocolate Soldier;
• Pink brocade;
• Forest beauty.

Caring for and propagating the episcia flower is not particularly difficult, because unlike its tropical “brothers”, this plant is unpretentious. But the ornamental plant is very demanding on heat and humidity levels.

Location and lighting

Before you grow episcia, you need to choose a suitable place for it. Like all tropical plants, episcia loves light very much, but direct sunlight is harmful to it. She needs soft, diffused lighting.

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The scorching sun discolors the bright and variegated leaves, causing them to dry out and slowing down the growth of the entire plant as a whole. Lack of sunlight is no less dangerous. It leads to elongation of shoots and too sparse arrangement of leaves.

The best option for growing episcia would be window sills on the east or west side. Also, a pot with a plant can be placed on a northern balcony or window sill - but only on condition that they are not shaded by buildings or trees.

Air temperature and humidity

Episcia is undemanding to air temperature. It easily adapts to summer heat up to +36°C, but does not tolerate temperatures below +16°C. Also, the ornamental plant must be protected from drafts.

This bright “representative” of the tropics loves high air humidity, which it needs for active growth and flowering. It is especially important for young plants up to 1-2 years old.

Ways to increase humidity:

• pour wet expanded clay into the pan;
• water the plant and cover the bush with plastic wrap for 25-35 minutes;
• Grow episcia in florariums.

Choosing soil and pot

Episcia is best grown in a shallow but fairly wide flowerpot. There must be holes made in its bottom to remove excess liquid.

To grow a tropical plant, light, breathable soil with neutral or slightly acidic soil is used. For this, a ready-made substrate is used, intended for growing Saintpaulias and violets, or prepared independently from river sand, peat and leaf soil, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.

Watering and spraying

Like most natives of tropical forests, episcia loves moisture. At the same time, you cannot spray the leaves of the plant directly, as this will cause the foliage to quickly rot.

When caring for epissia at home in winter, the number of waterings is reduced to once every 7-8 days. It is best to water the flower only after the soil has dried 1-2 cm. Water should be poured along the edge of the flowerpot or at the very root and carefully ensure that it does not get on the episcia leaves.

Feeding episcia

Proper feeding of episcia ensures full growth and development of the plant, increases its immunity to diseases and pests. The most preferable are complex mineral and organic fertilizers, which are alternated and applied once every 12-15 days, preferably after preliminary watering of the soil.

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Transfer

Episcia has a high growth rate, so the ornamental plant needs to be replanted at least once a year, preferably in April or May.

Flower transplant:

• take a pot 2-3 cm wider than the previous one;
• pour drainage and a layer of soil into the flowerpot;
• water the episcia and remove it from the old container;
• Place the plant in a new flowerpot along with a soil ball, carefully sprinkle all the voids with soil and water.

Once every 3 years it is necessary to carry out a complete replanting, with replacement of the soil. During the procedure, carefully examine the rhizome of the plant, carefully remove all dried, rotten and damaged fragments.

Epission: signs and superstitions

Popular rumor advises giving this flower to those who have not yet met their love. It brings joy to everyone and is useful to those who despair in life. It lifts your spirits, instills hope and love of life. The giver can also meet his love.

Despite the fact that the flower plant is not a medicinal plant, the aura emanating from the flower enhances vital activity, fills with positive energy and helps to find a common language with different people.

Thanks to the influence of the flower, people's creativity and creativity increases, their fighting spirit increases, and the work they do brings much greater satisfaction, therefore it is suitable for absolutely everyone, without exception.

Conclusion

If you like the beautiful Episcia, then don’t delay purchasing her. Episcia will decorate your collection of indoor flowers. Moreover, it is not capricious and does not require any special expenditure of money, time and effort.

The lush bush is beautiful all year round, especially during flowering periods. Easily propagated.

In addition, there is a popular belief that if you give someone an indoor Episcia flower, you yourself will definitely fall in love. Who knows? For the sake of such a wonderful feeling, you can take a risk and breed several specimens of this magnificent flower to use as gifts!

Types of episcia and their photos: creeping, lilac, carnation, copper-red

E. creeping (E. reptans Mart.). Found in shady places in tropical rain forests in Brazil, Colombia, Guiana, Suriname. Perennial herbaceous plants. The shoots are creeping, long, branched. The leaves are elliptical, 4–8 cm long and 2–5 cm wide, heart-shaped at the base, densely pubescent, olive green and brown above, reddish below, slightly wrinkled above, serrate-ciliated at the edges; along the midrib and up to half the length at the lateral veins with a silvery-green narrow stripe.

Pay attention to the photo - the creeping episcia has single flowers, located in the axils of the leaves, on red pedicels; corolla tube 2.5–3.5 cm long; corolla mouth 2 cm in diameter, pink inside, red outside:

Blooms in July–September. Widely used as an hanging plant.

Episcia lilacina. The leaves of this plant are about 10 cm long, bronzed green. The flowers are lilac-white, with a yellow center and a purple edge.

E. dianthiflora (Episcia dianthiflora) or carnation alsobia (Alsobia dianthiflora) - separated into a separate genus Alsobia. The homeland of the plant is Mexico. A perennial tropical plant with two types of shoots: short with leaves close together and long, thin, darkening with age, rooting in nodes (tendrils), bearing daughter rosettes. The leaves are small, 3 cm long, 2 cm wide, elliptical to ovate, crenate along the edge, dark green with a purple midrib, short-velvety pubescent.

Look at the photo - the indoor episcia flower of this species has single, white flowers with purple dots in the throat and limb lobes fringed along the edge:

There are a number of highly decorative varieties.

E. copper-red (E. cupreata). Grows in shady places, at an altitude of up to 2000 m above sea level, in tropical rain forests in Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil. A perennial herbaceous plant, it is significantly larger in size than the previous species. The shoots are creeping, easily rooting in the substrate. The leaves are elliptical, rounded-elliptic, almost heart-shaped at the base, 6–13 cm long and 4–8 cm wide, densely pubescent; brown-green to copper above, with a wide white stripe along the midrib and spotted, reddish below, with a green stripe in the middle.

As you can see in the photo, the copper-red episcia has single, fiery red or scarlet-red flowers; corolla tube 2–2.5 cm long, yellow inside and with red spots, red outside:

Blooms in summer, July–September.

It is actively used in crossing and has many cultural forms and varieties:

• with very large (11–14 cm) leaves, brownish-olive above, shiny, greenish-silver along the veins, pinkish below;
• with leaves silvery-gray-green, shiny, with a brownish-olive edge and spots between the veins, pinkish below the edge;
• with large, brownish-olive, softly pubescent leaves, with a wide bright copper stripe along the midrib;
• with leaves that are rigidly pubescent, silvery-greenish with a brownish-green edge and spots between the lateral veins;
• with smooth, light green leaves, with silver stripes along the middle and lateral veins.

How to transplant episcia (video)

The ornamental crop belongs to the category of fairly fast-growing flowering perennials, so it is very important to form the bush in a timely and correct manner. Immediately after flowering, the shoots are shortened, and all daughter rosettes collected from the cut shoots are planted, which will allow you to obtain the most lush and beautiful bush. It is important to remember that all ampelous hybrid forms and varieties are prone to spreading and easy rooting, so pots with such plants should be hung.

Propagation of Episcia by cuttings in the ground

To grow a flower, it is better to take fairly wide pots of small height. The soil for epilation should have a slightly acidic or neutral reaction (pH 5.5–6.5). The soil mixture consists of 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat soil (or greenhouse soil) and 1 part river sand, sphagnum moss and pieces of charcoal. Also, the substrate can consist of leaf soil, peat and sand (3:1:1), with the addition of sphagnum and charcoal. You can use store-bought Violet mixtures, etc. Provide good drainage and large drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Episcia is propagated by cuttings or seeds in the spring. The easiest way to propagate is by rooting side shoots. Developed shoots with 3–4 nodes without their own lateral processes are placed in water, but not immersed deeply (no more than 3–4 cm). You can also, without separating the daughter rosette from the mother plant, place the pot and bury the shoot in the area of ​​the bend a few centimeters into moist soil. Usually there are no problems with rooting stem cuttings - they will take root within a week. It must be remembered that the soil temperature during rooting should be at least 18 °C, and preferably about 25 °C. Young plants are transferred several times as they grow (with a frequency of once a month) into a container 2–3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. The maximum pot size for adult plants is about 20 cm in diameter.

A simple way to propagate episcia from stem cuttings is to root them directly in the soil substrate. They are separated and planted in light soil in a small pot (diameter 7–9 cm) and placed in a greenhouse or covered with a jar.

Correct bush formation

The bush must be trimmed periodically, otherwise it will look sloppy. Overgrown shoots must be removed. When hanging over the edge, the stems will fray. If you want to leave them, you need to attach a grill nearby. Attach shoots to it as they grow.

Episcia propagation on a windowsill

Plant propagation is possible in several ways:

• vegetatively (cuttings, shoots, leaves);
• seeds.

It is better to use the vegetative method. It preserves the characteristics of the variety.

Vegetative propagation of Episcia

The cutting can be a shoot that has 3-4 nodules, but no lateral shoots. It is planted in water (before roots form) or directly into the ground. In the latter case, cover with film.

What care does any variety of this flower require?

Since Episcia is a former resident of the tropics, it likes dark and damp places, as well as a complete absence of drafts.

Choice of window sill. Western or Eastern - that's it! If you only have one window, and it faces south, this is also not a problem. Keep the plant on the windowsill from evening to morning, and hide it in a dark corner during the day (or at least from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Or even buy a hanging pot and hang the plant a little away from the window. As for the north window, it is not suitable at all - there is little light here.

• Temperature. Ideal: 22-25 degrees. The “critical points” for a flower are considered to be 16 degrees (if it gets even colder, it will die) and 36 degrees (it doesn’t like extra heat either). Although it is better for a flower to live in heat than in cold, the main thing is that you do not forget to water it constantly.
• Priming. Choose a light one that will not interfere with the roots’ breathing. If you don’t like the store-bought soil, mix river sand, leaf and garden soil in equal doses, dilute it all a little with charcoal (charcoal) and sphagnum. But this is not enough: add drainage to the pot (to the bottom, about 3 cm) - small pebbles or expanded clay.
• Feeding. You can remember about it in spring and summer, adding nutrients at least every week. Any mineral fertilizer for flowers will suit you, but take half the usual (indicated on the package) norm.

• Pests. They rarely visit such a plant. Episcia can only become infected with nematodes or apple aphids.
• Diseases. The main problem of the flower is excess water in the pot, which can cause the roots to rot. The leaves have dark spots: stop watering the flowerpot with cold water. Yellow spots: these are sunburn, overfeeding or too dry air.

Watering and water procedures

This is one of the most water-loving flowerpots - you can water it every 3 days. Do not add too much - stagnation of water will provoke the appearance of root rot, which will destroy the plant. But as soon as the soil dries completely, immediately add water. Moreover, pour directly onto the ground - leaves (especially those with edges) do not like to be washed.

In the cold season, “hibernation” affects even this restless creature, so watering can be reduced to once every 7 days. Is the soil dry? Don't rush, wait a day or even two with water.

Leave the water to settle, allowing it to warm up to a comfortable room temperature - under no circumstances should it be icy.

Episcia does not respect spraying, but loves moist air. What should I do? It's simple: fill a tray with expanded clay, fill it with water, place a pot with a flower on top, but so that the roots do not reach the plant - and let it breathe moisture.

Transplantation, bush formation

Most plants change their place of residence once a year, but episcia can be replanted twice.

Choose a wide “house” (5 cm wider than the old one) with narrow sides that will not prevent the plant from hanging over the sides of the pot. And of course, there must be holes in the bottom!

The whole procedure goes like this:

1. Water your pet well to soften the soil.
2. After half an hour, remove the plant, very carefully moving the roots - do not pull the branches, it is better to knock on the walls so that the roots come out easily.
3. Carry out a “medical examination” of the roots: if you see rotten or dried roots, cut them off with a margin and cover the “wound” with sulfur.
4. Place drainage and fresh soil in the new pot.
5. Plant the episcia and water it. After 30 minutes, check to see if excess liquid needs to be drained from the pan.
6. Do not expose the pot to the sun for at least 7 days.

Pruning the crown is a common thing for episcia, because it always wants to take over the world... Well, or at least your entire room. It is better to cut off excess leaves with sterile scissors (boil them for about 10 minutes).

How to propagate Episcia

• Sockets. The easiest way. In spring, the plant produces tendrils, at the ends of which “mini bushes” grow. Mix peat with sand, plant this bush there (without cutting off the mustache), keep it warm. When it releases the roots and firmly “grabs” the soil with them, you can cut off the “umbilical cord”.
• With a cutting. Cut the cutting, stick it into a glass/pot with soil, and cover with a jar on top to create a greenhouse effect. When the roots begin to grow, you can pick up the jar.
• Seeds. They are sown in a well-drained box, which is wrapped with film on top. By the way: this method is bad for hybrid varieties - after germination they may look not like themselves, but like the “mother”, that is, the parent variety.

Possible problems

When care errors occur, problems arise: