How to make fuchsia bloom at home: video

Fuchsia is popularly called “ballerina” for the special shape of the flower, similar to the fluffy tiered skirt of a dancer. It is for the original flowering that many value the plant. I, too, succumbed to the charm of fuchsia and bought a pot with a shoot, firmly confident that soon a cascade of delicate flowers would grace my windowsill. I was deeply disappointed when the fuchsia did not bloom either in the year of purchase or in the next season. But I still waited for it to bloom! I will share my experience of growing fuchsia in this article.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Fuchsia does not bloom: reasons

Why fuchsia doesn’t bloom interests not only novice gardeners. This plant is very whimsical and can disappoint even an experienced gardener. There are many factors influencing the growth and flowering of a plant. Here are the main ones:

illumination;
air temperature;
lack or excess of moisture;
pests and diseases;
soil composition.

If at least one of the parameters is not met, this leads to a decrease or complete absence of buds. Therefore, as quickly as possible, it is worth finding out why fuchsia does not bloom at home and what to do to correct the situation. There are reasons that can be eliminated immediately and allow buds to appear this year or prepare the bush for flowering next year.

Lack of light

Fuchsia is a light-loving plant; lack of lighting affects the appearance of buds. It is better to place the flower on the eastern, western and southwestern windows (sides of the site). It benefits from fresh air, so it is recommended to send the fuchsia pot to the garden in a pot for the summer, as it is, or replant it on the plot. But you will need to protect the flower from the wind, and on hot sunny days, shade it from direct sunlight.

Fuchsia does not bloom what to do

Important! When the buds appear, under no circumstances should you move or rotate the plant.

Air temperature

For fuchsia, air temperature is of great importance. In summer, on hot days (over 30°C), to prevent the buds from falling off, spray the flower itself and the air around it twice a day. For additional moisture in hot weather, place a small container with expanded clay and water. And the main condition for winter maintenance is the air temperature not higher than 15°C.

Lack of moisture

If there is a lack of moisture, the soil dries out, the foliage falls off, and budding may not occur at all. Good watering with settled water is recommended; there should be drainage at the bottom of the pot so that water does not linger, leading to rotting of the roots.

Pests and diseases

Fuchsia, like all plants, suffers from some diseases. She loves moisture, but its excess can cause gray rot. Brown spots appear on the stems and shoots are affected. The treatment is carried out with copper-containing preparations, such as foundationazole, pureflower.

Important! If root rot has affected the fuchsia root, it can no longer be saved; all that remains is to cut off the shoots and place them in a glass of water for rooting.

In order not to provoke the disease, use a coarse-grained substrate and water it rarely but abundantly. Glyocladin is used for prevention.

Whitefly

Their insects are loved by fuchsia spider mites, whiteflies, and aphids, so the plant must be inspected for the presence of these pests and treated with insecticides. For example, spider mites can be eliminated with karbofos.

Sometimes yellow spots appear on the underside of the leaf. This disease is called rust, which causes leaves and flowers to fall off. Treatment against it is carried out with the drugs Vertan, Bordeaux mixture, which are diluted strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package.

If the plant is affected by pests, but is still able to bloom normally, you still need to take all measures for treatment.

Pests

The most common pest is whitefly. This small insect is very difficult to notice with the naked eye. They usually appear in the summer, when all the windows in the room are open. The defeat happens very quickly. Light sticky spots appear on the surface of the plant. The butterflies suck all the juice out of the fuchsia, and it slowly dies. The first step in saving a flower from whiteflies is to wash it with warm, soapy water. Particular attention should be paid to the internal parts of the plant and the stem. Make sure that soapy water does not get on the roots - this will destroy them. You can protect the rhizomes with polyethylene. In advanced cases, you will have to resort to spraying with insecticides. The flower shop will tell you which drug to choose. Breeding instructions are indicated on the packaging.
Dry and warm air are optimal conditions for the appearance of spider mites. First signs of damage:
gray coating on the inside of the foliage;

the appearance of a thin web on the entire surface of the plant;

black pigmentation on leaf blades.

Folk remedies rarely help in the fight against spider mites. It is better to use insecticides.

Reference. If diseases or pests are detected on fuchsia, it should be isolated from other plants.

Fuchsia blooms beautifully and brightly. If this does not happen for a long time, it is worth reconsidering the possible causes described above and starting to eliminate them. Usually the plant returns to normal after 10-15 days of resuscitation measures.

Proper care

For active growth and flowering of fuchsia, it is necessary to provide good conditions for its maintenance. A lot depends on proper care. Why is this so important? Let's take a closer look at what the flower loves.

Ampelous fuchsia.

The plant is very demanding on lighting. Bright and diffused sunlight is important for him. The flower needs long-term lighting, but without direct sunlight, since it does not like the heat. The best rays for it will be morning and evening rays. So place it on north or west facing windows. And also, do not move the flower during the flowering period, otherwise you risk losing all the buds.
The most favorable temperature for flowering is considered to be from 18 to 25 degrees. But we understand that in the summer heat this is extremely difficult to achieve. An increase in temperature to 30 degrees can cause the leaves of the flower to begin to dry out and therefore fall off. The plant dies from direct sunlight. It will be difficult to save him. In autumn, fuchsias provide a temperature range of 5 to 12 degrees, since during this period higher temperatures will cause leaf shrinkage and plant disease.
Water the flower abundantly all the time except winter, after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, watering is slightly limited. The water used for it is settled. The flower does not like dry soil and excess moisture. When caring for the plant, do not forget about spraying the leaves; you can also place a container of water next to the pot. Fuchsia loves this procedure very much, but this cannot be done under the rays of the sun. The best time of day to spray is early morning or afternoon. It cannot be carried out in winter, since excess moisture during this period is harmful.

The flower needs constant feeding, but only except in winter. For this purpose, special solutions are purchased in stores specifically for this plant. Fertilization is carried out once a week. You can add a single weekly dose to water for irrigation and moisten the flower. Before the buds open, add additional fertilizer to the water for spraying. After flowering, the plant is not fed for some time, and then it is renewed again.
Proper wintering is important for fuchsia. If all the conditions for this are not created, then flowering may not be seen. A good place during this period would be a basement, garage or storage room. You don't have to worry about lighting. It is important to ensure the correct temperature regime (5-12ºС) and prevent the soil from drying out.

We grow and care for

For the owner of a flower such as fuchsia, growing and caring for it at home becomes both a pleasant hobby and hard work. If you plan to grow fuchsias outdoors, you need to consider the plant variety. At home, the flower is protected from adverse natural phenomena, but care in the garden will require additional protective measures.

Location, lighting and temperature

Growing a flower begins with its proper placement in the house. It is not advisable to place the plant on the north side, where fuchsia, even if it grows, loses its attractiveness. The leaves and flowers are getting smaller, and it blooms poorly on northern windows. On the south side, care must be taken to protect the fuchsia from direct sunlight.

The most comfortable location for a flower is eastern and western windows with a convenient light mode.

Important! Frequent rearrangements are harmful to fuchsia; it loves constancy and does not tolerate moving well, shedding its leaves.

When placing flower pots in a darkened room, the foliage mass increases, but flowering deteriorates. To balance the light regime, you need to regularly expose the pots to light, removing them at noon. This will protect fuchsia from sunburn.

Fuchsia has a special relationship with temperature. The root system of the flower loves coolness; it is not left where the room can heat up to 30 °C. In the summer, keeping fuchsia at 18...24 °C is enough; in winter (during the dormant period), the plant is placed in a room where the temperature can be maintained at 5...12 °C.

Humidity and watering

Humidity is an important parameter that ensures proper growth and development of the plant. Fuchsia requires humidity in the range of 60–70%; only during dormancy is it permissible to reduce it. Maintain the required level by spraying 2 times a day or placing a deep bowl of water next to the plants.

The need for watering is determined by the condition of the top layer of soil: if it is dry, it’s time to water. The frequency of watering in summer is 2 times a week. In spring and autumn, the plant is watered once every 2 weeks (be sure to monitor the condition of the soil). In winter, fuchsia gets enough moisture once a month. Take settled water at room temperature.

Choosing a suitable pot

Fuchsia prefers to grow in ceramic pots, where its root system does not experience overheating. The size of the landing container should be small. It is selected according to the size of the root crop. Planting in a large pot leads to acidification of the soil due to the slow growth of roots, which do not have time to occupy the entire space and rot. The pot must have holes to drain excess moisture.

Soil and fertilizers

Indoor fuchsia is picky about soil quality. The main thing is that it is loose. Optimal composition: compost, peat and leaf humus, taken in equal parts and mixed with 2 parts sand. A mixture of turf, ash and leaf humus in a ratio of 5:2:5 is also suitable.

Active feeding of the plant begins at the end of March, adding it to the water for irrigation. Fuchsia takes the German Pokon brand fertilizer very well.

To successfully set buds, the flower is sprayed with a “Zircon” solution, after which it needs to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (“Planta-Miracle-Growth”, “Spring Effect”). Once a month, liquid humus is added to the soil for the full development of all parts of the plant. In winter, fertilizing is not carried out.

Attention! An overfed fuchsia will delight you with abundant foliage, but will not want to bloom at all.

Pruning and care during flowering

Fuchsia is loved by gardeners for its plasticity. If you prune it correctly, you can get a pyramidal, bush, or hanging shape from it, and even give it the appearance of a standard tree.

Formation begins from the moment the cuttings are planted. Experienced fuchsia lovers advise pruning adult plants in March and early October. Pruning in the spring involves shortening the awakened shoots, which are rapidly growing. In autumn, dry, elongated and broken branches are removed.

When pruning an adult plant, remove all faded stems, leaving dormant buds. The second pruning forms the crown.

When fuchsia is actively blooming, it cannot be disturbed. Watering should be such that the water does not stagnate and the top layer of soil does not dry out.

How to trim and pinch fuchsia?

Pruning and pinching fuchsias is a necessary technique to increase the intensity of flowering. Thanks to these operations, the number of shoots bearing buds increases.

Pinching the cuttings

A young plant is usually pinched three times, each time removing the growing points of new shoots. The first time, pinch out one existing shoot. The second time - the growth points of two newly formed cuttings are pinched again (there are already two of them). And the third time, having cut off all the growing points, they get a fairly fluffy bush with many shoots formed.

Duplicate pinching

The method allows you to form a plant very quickly. New shoots are pinched without waiting for the internodes to grow. This method of formation must be done carefully, since the mass of branches formed is very large.

You can pinch the plant at any time of the year, the only condition is that the formation must be stopped two months before the expected flowering.

Possible problems

The reasons why this situation arises may be different. Let's look at the most common and simple ones:

Lack of light. Due to the low level of illumination, the shoots turn pale, elongate and the plant, of course, does not have time to flower, because it puts all its energy into growth and development. In order to correct the situation, you need to provide the flower with enough light.
Extremely stuffy indoor conditions. The temperature issue is very important for a flower; if you provide it with too hot an environment, then it will not bloom, because all the nutrients and moisture will be used to compensate for environmental conditions. To fix the problem, you will need to normalize the temperature. Once this is done, after some time the flower will return to normal and will be able to bloom.
Lack or low amount of fertilizers. If there is a lack of fertilizer, the plant will also not bloom, just like if there is an excess of it, so it is important to ensure that the amount of fertilizer is always within the normal range. Then the plant will successfully develop and bloom every year. Important! Fertilizers that contain potassium and phosphorus are most preferable for plants. Since it is precisely these substances that fuchsias lack most for full development.
Poor watering. If the plant receives insufficient or excess moisture, this may cause a lack of flowering. Watering is a very important process; if it is done incorrectly, the negative consequences can even lead to the death of the plant. To prevent this from happening, you need to normalize the frequency of watering.
Disease or harmful insects. This is another reason why the plant may not bloom. If these pests are not eliminated in time, they will take nutrients from the plant, and in some cases, eat the plant.

These are the mistakes gardeners, especially beginners, make most often. If you take the necessary measures, then everything will quickly fall into place and the flower will soon bloom. But sometimes the reason for the lack of flowering can be something longer and more complex; sometimes such a problem cannot be solved too quickly.

More complex reasons may include the following:

Providing unsuitable temperature conditions for the winter period. If you create a temperature of up to +15 degrees in winter, the plant will actively grow and develop, because of this, in the spring it will be too weak to produce flowers. In order to avoid this situation, you need to provide the plant with the correct temperature regime.
Incorrect pinching or trimming. If these procedures are performed incorrectly or at the wrong time, this can lead to a lack of flowering. Important! The plant should be pinched when it has several pairs of leaves.
Pot too big to grow. This will lead to the fact that the plant will be maximally focused on growing the root system for a very long time. Such actions will be associated with the need to fill all the empty space. As a result, fuchsia will not bloom.
Excess of nitrogen fertilizers. Like an excess of any other fertilizers, an excess of fertilizers of this type will not lead to anything good, because they help the plant to grow and develop foliage, but not to bloom.
Low quality substrates. Poor quality soil will lead to aridity; this phenomenon will negatively affect the root part of the plant. The plant will not have enough nutrients and will not have the strength to flower.
Having problems with roots. Excessively hot or cold conditions, as well as problems with watering, can lead to problems with the root system, after which the plant will stop blooming, directing all its energy and resources to maintaining its roots in good condition.
Features of the selected plant variety. Some types of fuchsia may simply bloom late. In this case, you should not take any specific measures, you just need to wait some more time and the plant will definitely bloom. Such information should be clarified initially, before the flower was purchased.

Failures in the long run

Wintering at elevated temperatures has a bad effect on the plant. If fuchsia is kept at temperatures above 10 °C in winter, it will continue to grow actively in the cold season. As a result, the branches of the plant become excessively long and weaken. It is unlikely that you should count on flowering in the spring under these conditions.

Towards the end of the growing season, the flower should be pinched, ridding it of diseased, damaged and too long branches. These actions will help the growth of new buds.

Pruning helps increase the number of buds on the plant.

There are other factors on which flowering depends. This is why you need to know about all the characteristics of a plant - this is the only way to ensure its full growth and development.

Pot too big

It is necessary to replant fuchsia in early spring into a container adequate in size to the root system. A very spacious pot will not allow the flower to build up the strength of its root system and delay the flowering process for a long time.

Feeding

Fertilizers help boost the plant’s immunity, stimulating its active growth. At the same time, an excess of nitrogen-based fertilizers can cause rapid growth of leaves in the plant. In this case, the flower is unlikely to need to produce buds.

Unsuitable soil

For planting, you need soil rich in microelements, containing humus and loosening agents (for example, coconut fiber). It is important to sterilize the soil before use to rid it of bacteria and weeds. This can be done using high temperatures, or, on the contrary, using cold.

When preparing, special attention should be paid to correct proportions. Too light soil will lead to a thinning of the earthen ball, and the root system of the plant will stick to the walls of the pot. If the soil is too heavy, the white roots of the fuchsia will not be able to supply moisture from the soil to the plant stem, and the roots will soon rot.

Care during the flowering period

After the flower has overwintered, pruning is done. During this process, all dried leaves and flowers are removed and the shoots are shortened, leaving only a third of them. Don't forget about the branches that grow inward. They are also removed.

During the spring growth of the flower, the tips of the branches are pinched. This must be done so that subsequently the crown does not become bare, but rather branches out more. The last pinching is carried out in May.

Fuchsia is replanted every year in the spring. You should not choose a large pot; you need to have less space at the roots. Otherwise, shoots will grow, and flowering, on the contrary, will decrease. It is worth noting that the soil changes only when the roots have entwined the entire pot. When replanting, do not forget about the drainage layer. The soil should be loose with the addition of sand and humus.

Pruning fuchsia

Proper pruning of the plant will not only give the bush a neat appearance, but also stimulate more abundant and lush flowering. In addition to pre-transplant pruning, there are other types of pruning.

Pruning is carried out throughout the summer. Long shoots are selectively pruned, which will subsequently produce new flowers in the fall.

A crown of the correct shape can be formed by evenly cutting off the shoots, leaving two to four pairs of leaves on them.

The standard form of fuchsia looks very beautiful. It's easy to get. It is enough to remove all the side branches of the plant to the desired height. For stability, the central stem of the flower is attached to a support.

And, of course, immediately after rooting the cutting, you need to take care of the future type of the plant. Once established in the permanent pot, be sure to pinch off the top.

Causes of leaf falling

It often happens that the plant withers and its leaves fall off. Let's figure out why this happens?

Transferring the plant to another location. Due to the fact that the lighting has changed, such a reaction occurs in the flower. It is important to help him during this period with additional spraying. It may take some time to acclimatize him,
In winter, fuchsia itself can shed its leaves. This is considered normal.
With improper watering. Excess moisture leads to rotting of the roots. To solve this problem, the plant is removed from the pot and the damaged roots are removed. A flower is planted. If this is not done, the plant dies.
Overdrying the soil can also lead to leaf fall. In this case, gradually moistening the soil can save the flower. It is not worth filling it with a large volume of water immediately. Then you need to spray, avoiding overheating of the soil.
The tips of the leaves can dry out due to changes in humidity. If the flower has not been acclimatized, its foliage will begin to dry out. Drying may indicate a problem with the root system.

Actions that will help the plant bloom

In order for the plant to bloom safely, you first need to determine the reason why flowering does not occur and eliminate it. In addition to this, there are several actions that should be performed, because they can help the plant bloom faster:

ensuring good temperature conditions. Important! It should not exceed 25 degrees in summer;
providing sufficient light. This is especially necessary if you are using diffused light, because your plant will need much more than regular natural light;
performing proper watering. Important! Before watering the plant, it is worth carefully settling the water so that it is slightly warm;
monitoring indoor humidity. In summer and spring, you need to spray not only the plant itself, but also the air around it; this simple action will allow the plant to feel much better. In the autumn and winter, additional spraying is not carried out, as it will only damage the plant;
applying fertilizers in the correct way. If the plant is in a room, then you need to use special fertilizers for indoor plants; if the plant is in open ground, then you should use specialized bioadditives. Important! You should not apply fertilizers in the winter, they will only harm your favorite flower;
pruning The best period for carrying it out is autumn, because the plant has time to prepare for the cold weather. In the spring, pruning is best done in early March.

Popular varieties

Now about 1000 varieties of this original decorative flower are known. Let's look at the most interesting ones that can be grown at home.

The Deep Purple variety is a variety with drooping branches. The flowers are large, semi-double, bright blue-violet in color.
The Bella Rozella variety has lush, curly flowers in many pink shades. Grown as a hanging plant
Plants of the Checherboard variety are erect and suitable for standard cultivation. The inflorescences are red with white bracts.
Variety Leonberg - distinguished by large pink flowers with coral bracts. Suitable for standard cultivation.
Variety Brutus is a bush form with bright scarlet flowers and bracts with pink edging.

How to replant after purchase?

To properly transplant a newly acquired fuchsia you need:

prepare loose, fertile soil, place the fuchsia in a pot with a drainage mixture at the bottom;
examine the plant; remove all damaged, dry parts (leaves, shoots). Also remove buds and flowers;
remove the fuchsia from the purchased container and examine the root system. If necessary, cut off rotten and damaged roots, sprinkle them with ash;
carefully place the flower in the soil, straighten the roots and sprinkle with soil, layer by layer;
Lightly press the soil;
water with settled water;
place the plant in a shaded place for the adaptation period (1-2 weeks).

Why fuchsia does not bloom - possible causes of the problem

Today we will not dwell on the topic of when a plant suffers from pests and diseases. It is quite natural that a weakened bush is fighting for survival and is no longer in the mood for flowering. We will talk about fuchsia, apparently healthy and actively growing. But this does not mean that it will please you with flowering. Sometimes even such specimens are reluctant to produce buds. And the reason for this may be a violation of growing conditions or improper care of the flower.

Unsuitable growing conditions that delay bud initiation

In general, fuchsia is a fairly “convenient” crop and feels good in indoor conditions. However, it is worth taking into account some of the plant’s maintenance requirements. So, in some cases, a green pet refuses to bloom if it doesn’t like something, namely:

The room is poorly lit. Fuchsia is a light-loving crop and northern windows are definitely not for it. At the same time, the lighting should be diffused.
The room is too hot, especially in winter. The maximum temperature that the bush can withstand is 25 -30°C in summer, otherwise it will shed its ovary and foliage. In winter, the plant should be kept cool (about 10°C). If the winter is warm, the bush will not rest and is unlikely to bloom.
Unsuitable soil. A light substrate dries out quickly, while a heavy one, on the contrary, retains moisture for a long time. This prevents the appearance of thin roots, and it is with their help that moisture enters the above-ground part. Fuchsia needs a substrate based on coconut fiber or containing vermicompost.
Big pot. Until the root system fills the entire space of the flowerpot, fuchsia will not bloom.

Some varieties do not bloom until they grow long branches (at least 6 internodes).

What mistakes in care affect flowering?

In addition to good lighting, fuchsia has other requirements. If they are not followed, flowering will either not occur at all, or will be sparse and inexpressive. This is possible for the following reasons:

Incorrect watering. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture will not be beneficial. In the first case, the roots may rot, in the second, leaf fall will begin and the bush will begin to dry out. But the flower really loves spraying.
Nutritional deficiency or excess nutrients in the soil. Fuchsia needs to be fed regularly from spring and all summer. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer stimulates the formation of flower buds well. But you shouldn’t use it more than once a week. An overfed plant will age faster and flowering time will be shortened.
Late pruning. The bush is pruned for the first time before being sent for the winter, shortening the shoots by more than half. It is advisable to carry out the spring procedure before the end of March, before active growth begins.

Getting buds to appear

How to make fuchsia bloom? First, you should carefully study the list of reasons that lead to the absence of buds on the shoots of this shrub. Next, you need to eliminate the source of the problem. Of course, there is no way to correct severe pruning, but in six months this information will be taken into account.

To achieve flowering, the main emphasis is usually on comprehensive care measures:

Temperature. In summer it is better to maintain a range of 18-25 degrees. Above 30 degrees will cause the leaves to drop and the flowering process to stop.

Lighting. It is important to provide diffused light (the eastern part of the house or comfortable partial shade in the garden will do). If the plant begins to produce flowers, it cannot only be rearranged, but even rotated (the buds and flowers will immediately fall off).

Watering. From spring to autumn, it is recommended to water the substrate abundantly with soft, settled water. It is assumed that the soil has good drainage and there will be no stagnation of moisture at the bottom of the pot.

Air humidity. In spring and summer, it is advisable to spray the plant and the air near it twice a day. Additionally, place a container with water and pebbles at the bottom. In autumn and winter, air humidification is abruptly stopped.

Feeding. In open ground, biofertilizers are suitable, but indoors it is better to use fertilizers for home flowers. From April to mid-autumn, additives are allowed once a week, but in winter they stop adding any fertilizers altogether.

Pruning. It is ideal to shorten the branches by one third in the fall before wintering. It is advisable to dry the cut areas in a warm room, and then transfer them to a cool environment with a temperature of +5-+10 degrees. In spring, pruning is carried out around the beginning of March, when the results of the postponed winter are visible.

Fuchsia is a beautiful flower. It is important to provide proper care, and the plant will delight you with vigorous flowering.

Growing and caring for the garden

Fuchsia will greatly decorate the garden. There is a place for it near the pond, in the patio, and against the walls of gazebos in hanging forms. Corners of lightly shaded areas where there is no wind will take on a mysterious and elegant look if “dancing” flowers of different shades decorate them.

However, you must understand that fuchsia does not tolerate middle zone winters.

This is a heat-loving plant, so caring for fuchsia at home involves organizing wintering. But during the summer, planted in the soil in June, the plant quickly gains growth and flowering, especially with proper watering and good fertilizing. Within 2-3 weeks after planting, fuchsia will decorate the house with flowers.

And only before the first frosts, the beauty must be transplanted, first into a greenhouse, and then, for final dormancy, into a relatively warm place (for example, in a well-lit place in a basement or garage at +10...+12 °C).

Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Moderator: Murzilka

Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Post by Severyanka » May 18, 2009, 10:01

Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

And what about the small ones, that is, the young animals do not need to be fed with nitrogen, just with kemira?

Re: Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Post by GrNat » May 18, 2009, 12:02

Re: Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Post by Milanashka » May 30, 2009, 11:20 pm

Re: Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Post by Svyatoslav » May 30, 2009, 11:25 pm

Re: Fuchsias - all about fertilizing

Post by AEA » 01 Jun 2009, 12:43

With Natasha’s permission, I’m answering your questions. Natasha will be off the air for a while. The monitor is covered

Kemira - luxury water-soluble, small white bags with flowers. Dilute: 13 coffee spoons of powder per 1.5 liters of water. Fuchsias are not afraid of drafts; they do not need to be protected from drafts.

Fuchsia diseases: why do leaves turn yellow and fall off?

Why do tomato flowers fall off in a greenhouse?

Beginning flower growers constantly have a question: fuchsia has dropped its leaves, what to do. The reasons are different, the development of diseases is possible, although she suffers from them quite rarely.

Fuchsia has dropped its leaves

What to do if fuchsia leaves fall:

Small dewdrops or spots of powdery structure on the leaves - excessive watering. The flower is treated with a solution of Fundazol (in a ratio of 1 to 11).
Yellowing of leaves is a sign of chlorosis. Occurs due to waterlogging, lack of minerals (nitrogen or magnesium).
The roots have turned brown (they are white when healthy). A change in color indicates the appearance of root rot. The reason is excess moisture. The affected areas are removed. If there are too many of them, the plant dies.
Yellowed root collar and branches, brown spots at the bottom of the leaf - black leg and rust. All infected parts are removed, the flower is sprayed with preparations - “Topaz”, “Vectra” or “Strobe”. Tools that have come into contact with an infected plant must be disinfected.

There may be several reasons why fuchsia begins to shed its leaves:

Moving to another room. The plant needs some time to get used to the new lighting.
Fuchsia disease
Incorrect watering. Excess moisture causes the root system to rot. To solve the problem, remove the fuchsia from the pot and trim off the damaged parts. If no measures are taken, the plant dies.
Drought also causes leaves to fall. Then you need to gradually moisten the soil. You cannot pour out a lot of water at once. If the fuchsia dries out, the first thing to do is adjust the watering. The plant negatively perceives both deficiency and excess moisture.

On a note! If your fuchsia leaves fall off in winter, you don’t need to think about what to do. This is a common phenomenon that occurs when the seasons change. However, if it sheds them throughout the winter, this indicates that the temperature in the room is too high. It should be reduced to the recommended values: +10…+12°С.

Why do gloxinia have empty buds?

A common reason why gloxinia buds do not open or are empty inside is insufficient air temperature. In this case, you can often observe a different picture - the presence of a green pea in the bud. After some time, the underdeveloped leg begins to turn brown and eventually falls off.

Empty buds

The best advice is to cut off the empty stalk and wait for the next buds. If the plant is not sick with anything, and the temperature conditions in the house are sufficient for growth, the problem will solve itself.

Important! Spraying with Epin can help prevent the occurrence of barren flowers. This will speed up recovery, relieve stress, and also help the plant produce developed buds.

Varieties and types

Ampelnaya

Ampel fuchsia is not a separate variety, it is rather a variety of plant, the structure of which includes various subspecies and varieties. A special feature is the ability of flexible stems to droop, forming a beautiful lush cap, literally dotted with flowers.

Holly's Beauty

One of the famous varieties of ampelous fuchsias is Holly's Beauty, bred in England in 1989. Holly's Beauty is an amazing variety. Quite long graceful buds open into bluish-white double flowers, decorated with thin white threads-stamens. The plant takes root very well.

Blue satin

Also an ampelous form. Very flexible drooping branches, entirely covered with greenish leaves with a red tint. An unusually large flower with a soft purple skirt is complemented by pink sepals with white-greenish tips. To be decorative, the bush must be shaped; in the spring, the plant requires good pruning. With proper feeding, it responds with powerful flowering.

Blue angel

Low, up to 30-45 cm, semi-ampelic fuchsia with very large double flowers. In addition to flowers, the variety is decorated with dark green, slightly jagged leaves and elongated beautiful buds.

The color of the sepals is white, the tips are greenish. The pink coating of the skirt emphasizes the subtle blue of the petals. The scalloped edges give the flower an airy feel.

Cuttings are very easy to root; in suitable conditions the plant overwinters well.

Annabel

One of the white princesses in the kingdom of fuchsias. It amazes, especially beginners, with its “porcelain”, fragile-looking flowers. The snow-white skirt bashfully exposes the pinkish stamens, the wreath of slightly pinkish sepals is almost a crown. The leaves are a delicate light green color at first; as they mature, the leaf blade darkens.

An important condition for preserving the decorative effect of flowers is to avoid direct sunlight.

The plant is obedient to formation - right up to the standard. The advantage of this variety is its active growth and early flowering.

Bella Rosella

The variety is unique in its versatility. Very fast growth with a powerful growth of non-fragile shoots allows you to form a plant, both in the form of a standard and in an ampelous form.

Very large flowers, with an intense pink, even purple, skirt and a delicate white-pink “crown” of sepals turn a “tree” or a lush bush into lacy foam. The flower is worthy of becoming an adornment of the most exquisite collection.

Royal mosaic

One of the most common and favorite varieties of fuchsias. Very large, “fluffy” (double) flowers are original in color and shape. The blue-violet skirt, rich in tone, is set off by pink “strokes-splashes”. The sepals are white on top and, when fully opened, show a pink underside, which looks very decorative, especially in combination with rounded large white buds. The background is also beautiful - slightly jagged, bright shades of green leaves.

It blooms luxuriantly and grows intensively - a wonderful variety in all respects, both for amateurs and professionals.

New Millennium

This is an amazing, very original and unusual variety. Bushy, beautifully and quickly branching, fuchsia lends itself well to shaping. But the view of a flowering plant is especially good. On a light green background of thin leaves, surrounded by large lilac buds, double flowers of unusual colors bloom.

The dark red (to black) skirt becomes cherry at the end of flowering, but seems to glow from the inside.

The red sepals add a glow and wonderfully frame the center of the flower with its long, graceful stamens.

Voodoo (voodoo)

It is distinguished by its unusually beautiful colors, contrasting and very bright. The dark purple skirt surrounded by intense red sepals and heart-shaped buds immediately attracts attention. The remaining qualities are also good - power and speed of growth, abundant flowering, easy formation. The variety is suitable for beginner gardeners.

La campanella

A small-flowered but profusely flowering variety, usually grown in a hanging form. White sepals above a lilac skirt look like lavender mist enveloping a lush bush.

Description

There are several stories of “recognition” of a wonderful plant. The first, somewhat fantasy. On the shores of the Strait of Magellan, a delicate plant has existed for a long time. For local residents everywhere, the growing Thilko was more than familiar. But George Handisid had never seen such beauty before and brought it home. However, the herbarium of the London History Museum has already been decorated with several specimens of fuchsia. This is the second, official version.

A priest and adherent of treatment with medicinal plants, Charles Plumier, in search of a cure for malaria in the foothills of South American Santa Domingo, found a delicate plant with scarlet flowers of an unusual, amazing shape. The found flower received a complex name - TriphyllaFlora Coccinea, which was later somewhat reduced to Fuchsia triphilla, immortalizing in its name the name of L. Fuchs, a German doctor and biologist. According to this version, the year of birth of fuchsia is 1703, it was then that information about the miraculous discovery was published.

The living flower came to England much later - in 1789. Crosses between F. coccinea and Fuchsia Magellanica resulted in the first recorded cultivars, such as Globosa. The variety had red-violet, fairly standard flowers, but even later, researchers and amateurs began to bring more and more new species. Searches in Peru, Mexico, Chile, and Ecuador were crowned with success, the number of varieties increased, and the diversity of the plant began to attract more and more attention from flower growers.

The first variety with snow-white flowering “Venus Victrix” and with double flowers “Duplex and Multiplex” revolutionized fuchsia growing, the plant began to conquer the world.

Fuchsia - a medicinal plant

As a truly medicinal plant, fuchsia, of course, is not used. However, the opinion about its magical, aura-improving, healing properties is firmly among the people. Fuchsia is credited with a number of positive qualities.

Magical properties of fuchsia:

development of intuition, creativity;
increased mental and physical activity;
reducing the risk of exacerbation of chronic and occurrence of acute forms of various diseases (gallbladder, gastrointestinal tract);

Fuchsia in cooking

Surprisingly, fuchsia fruits can be eaten. Moreover, it tastes very interesting – tart and peachy. A skilled housewife makes excellent fillings for pies, jam, even wine and liqueurs from the fruits.

Signs and superstitions

The existing legend gives the plant a particularly mysterious flair and fabulousness. Legend says that fuchsia flowers are nothing more than seven beautiful sisters who fell asleep forever in a whirlwind of a fast dance. Witchcraft destroyed the dancers for not wanting to be in captivity, but now collectors of the most beautiful flower can forever admire this dance.

The existing belief says that the plant “survives” the men at home, but despite this, thousands of happy families watch the extraordinary flowering of this wonderful bush.

Fuchsia - home care

Content temperature

In the warm season, the optimal temperature for fuchsia will be within +20-25 degrees. In principle, higher temperatures are allowed, but not too much. When the temperature rises to +30 degrees, fuchsia can shed its leaves. This should be especially taken into account if you plant it in open ground for the summer, which is not only allowed, but also has a beneficial effect on it. But in this case it must be planted in a place where heating to a critical temperature is excluded. In the summer, many flower growers treat fuchsia like an azalea, that is, they dig it into the ground along with the pot. This will allow you to quickly change its location without damaging the plant.

In winter, this indoor plant must be given a rest. Accordingly, the temperature during this period should be significantly reduced (about +8-12 degrees). But severe hypothermia is just as dangerous as overheating. This especially applies to the root system. To maintain optimal winter temperatures, fuchsia is placed on the windowsill at this time, where the required temperature is most likely. In order to avoid hypothermia of the roots from a cold window sill or, on the contrary, overheating from a window sill heated by a radiator, the flower pot must be isolated from it. This is easy to do - place the pot on a suitable piece of foam.

Lighting

Indoor fuchsia is a light-loving flower, but the light for it should be, although bright, diffused, without midday sunlight, which poses a danger to most indoor plants. At home, the best place for the vast majority of indoor flowers, and fuchsia in particular, is in windows oriented to the east or west. Even if a certain amount of sunlight hits the flower in the morning or evening hours, it will only benefit it. The same rule should be used if you plant fuchsia in open ground.

Note. During flowering, you cannot rearrange or rotate the flower! This can trigger the shedding of flowers and buds.

Watering, air humidity and fertilizers

Fuchsia, which is essentially very simple to care for at home, still requires proper watering. During the period of active development, which occurs in the spring-summer period, it must be watered regularly and abundantly. But regularity does not mean continuous watering and waterlogging of the soil. Here it is necessary to follow the rule of the “golden mean”. The smartest thing to do is to water the fuchsia as soon as the top layer of soil in the pot dries. This way, you will protect it from drying out and overflowing.

In winter, watering is significantly reduced. Some seasoned gardeners recommend not watering it at all in October-November, but I would not recommend novice gardeners to do this. Let the soil dry (not completely), and then water it. In general, watering fuchsia during the dormant period, when kept cool, is recommended once or twice a month. It would be enough. For watering at any time of the year, use settled water, preferably soft and, of course, not cold.

In summer, try to spray the flower regularly. Fuchsia loves it. You can use other methods to maintain air humidity. During the dormant period, the flower should not be sprayed.

Fuchsia is fed only during the growing season. Starting from March and until the onset of autumn, it can be fed with any complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants weekly (fertilizers for geraniums have shown good results). From the end of summer, fertilizing should be gradually reduced, and with the onset of the dormant period, it should be stopped altogether.

General recommendations for growing fuchsia

The optimal temperature for plant growth is 18 °C in winter and up to 22 °C in summer.

If temperatures are too low or high, the buds will crumble, the color will become very light, and infection with fungal diseases or pathogenic microorganisms is possible. Leaves may fall off.

Fuchsia loves light, but it must be placed in a place where there is no direct sunlight. With short daylight hours, you can additionally use a phytolamp. Once the buds appear, the plant does not need to be moved, changed its location or turned in the other direction: it can shed its flowers.

It is necessary to protect fuchsia from pests (mites, whiteflies). When they appear, it is necessary to treat them with fungicidal preparations.

An important condition for maintaining the crop is regular inspection for dried buds and stems and their timely removal

Planting fuchsias

The main component of full-fledged life is properly selected soil. It should be peat-sand with an admixture of turf soil. When preparing the soil for planting fuchsia yourself, you can add humus. Pebbles, expanded clay, and pieces of pottery serve as the drainage layer. The soil should be loose, but well support the trunk and root system.

As the fuchsia grows, the pot is changed to a larger one, but you need to start with a small one (9 cm in diameter): this way the roots have the opportunity to grow gradually, forming a strong rhizome. It is recommended to use a flowerpot to create an air gap.

Watering fuchsias

Irrigation of the plant is an important component of care. The water should be settled and at room temperature

The following factors influence the regularity of watering:

season;
weather;
soil condition, its structure;
variety of flowers;
their age.

In winter, fuchsia needs to be watered 1-2 times a month, in autumn - every week. In summer, watering is carried out every 3-4 days, and in extreme heat - even more often.

After moistening, the soil should be well saturated with water.

Do not allow excess moisture to stagnate in the pan: this can lead to rotting of the roots.

You should use a pot with holes in the bottom. The next watering is carried out no earlier than the top layer of soil dries out.

Wintering fuchsia

In spring and summer, the plant actively grows, requiring abundant watering and fertilizing. With the onset of autumn and winter, the situation changes: fuchsia rests during this season.

Water a dormant crop no more than 1-2 times a month. Feeding is not carried out in winter. To prepare the plant for winter, it is necessary to trim dry branches and treat the foliage from harmful insects.

The air temperature should not exceed 18 °C. 8-10 °C can be comfortable - it depends on the plant variety

Flowers can overwinter on the balcony, but it is important to prevent temperatures from getting too low

It is necessary to provide fuchsia shaded lighting. When buds appear in winter, they are cut off, otherwise the plant will not rest for the new season and will stop blooming.

Replanting and pruning fuchsia

Transferring the plant to a larger pot is carried out in the spring. It must be replanted together with the earthen lump that has formed between the roots. After planting, the trunk is cut by 1/3. Fuchsia is watered abundantly, sprayed and placed in a bright place for adaptation.

Decorative crops lend themselves well to being given different shapes by cutting branches. The procedure is carried out for the first time on the cutting immediately after purchase, and then 2 times a year (in October and January). It is necessary to trim 2 cm above the dormant buds.

You can bend the tops of the fuchsia to create a dense crown. The procedure is carried out no later than April for flowering on time, since the plant needs about two months to adapt.