Indoor begonia Planting and care Growing from seeds Reproduction Photos of varieties

During times of great travel and discovery, it was customary to create entire expeditions to search for unknown species of animals and plants. In the 17th century, during such an expedition to the Antilles, monk Charles Plumier discovered six species of incredibly beautiful flowers. He named them begonias - after his friend Mission Begon (the governor of Haiti). This flower, amazing in its beauty and diversity, is known even to a novice gardener. Begonias are found both in garden and indoor floriculture.

This article is devoted to breeding and caring for begonia at home. We will focus on issues of reproduction, care features, begonia varieties and methods of protection against diseases and their prevention.

Begonia forms the most significant genus of the Begoniaceae family. It unites at least a thousand plant species. They can be found in the highlands (3–4 km above sea level), in the subtropics and in tropical rainforests. There is an opinion that the birthplace of begonias is Africa, and then they spread to Asia, America, India, and Sri Lanka. The basis for this judgment is that more than 30% of all begonia species still grow on the “dark” continent.

How to describe begonia - it has so many faces...

Begonia ever-blooming Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum photo

The source of more than 2000 newly created begonia hybrids is from natural 1000 varieties. They differ in shape, color of leaves and flowers. This greatly complicates the task of describing the genus as a whole. Begonias are classified according to different characteristics, for example, there are annual and perennial, rhizomatous and tuberous, decorative deciduous and decorative flowering, deciduous and evergreen, tall and creeping. Therefore, read the description of begonia by type below, in the section on varieties and types of begonias.

The simplest classification of begonias

Begonia is a large genus of annual and perennial plants, including shrubs, herbs, subshrubs, and vines. In total there are about 1000 species, the number of which continues to grow.

If desired, you can choose begonia to suit every taste - the culture is amazing in its diversity. But species and varieties have something that unites them:

• unisexual flowers;
• asymmetrical leaves, called “elephant ears” - the central vein divides them into 2 unequal parts.

Flower lovers have dozens of classifications of begonias based on shape, color, size of flowers or leaves.

There are four large groups used for decorative purposes:

• deciduous;
• tuberous;
• beautifully flowering;
• shrubby.

By and large, begonias can have beautiful large leaves and inconspicuous buds, or decorative flowers and unremarkable small plates. There are no two species that combine both equally, but some shrub varieties are approaching them.

Just as begonias are varied, their care also differs significantly. Before purchasing, you should make inquiries about the species - perhaps it is so capricious that it simply cannot survive under normal indoor conditions.

Home begonia - choosing a place

Begonia's motto is consistency; it hates changing location. Choose a well-lit place for it, not in direct sunlight, preferably eastern or western windows (window sills). The desired temperature is around 18˚C in winter and summer. Of course, in summer the temperature will be higher, but begonia can withstand it, the main thing is air humidity.

Begonia is a tropical plant, in its natural environment it is found in a humid climate, so you will have to regularly humidify the air. It is not recommended to spray directly on the plant - brown spots appear on the leaves; you need to place the flowerpots on a tray with wet expanded clay: the water will evaporate, creating constant humidity. All you have to do is water the expanded clay: it’s good for the begonias and the rockery on the windowsill.

Begonia is picky about little things:

• does not tolerate crowding, place plants taking into account the widest part of the plant;
• does not tolerate drafts, but requires regular ventilation;
• again, constancy - it reacts to sudden changes in temperature by shedding flowers and leaves.

How to plant begonia correctly

Begonia planting and care at home

Before planting begonias, you need to choose a pot and stock up on soil mixture, drainage, and charcoal. Preferable, of course, is a ceramic, breathable container. We choose a pot so that there is no more than three centimeters of free space around the rhizome. A lot of loose soil around the root creates regular waterlogging, and our beauty doesn’t like this, it will be capricious and bloom poorly.

Video of planting tuberous begonia:

It is advisable to buy special soil at a flower shop (the ideal acidity for begonias is pH 5.5 - 6.5), if this is not possible, then you will have to mix:

• high peat – 1 part;
• leaf soil - 2 parts;
• sand, humus or turf soil - 1 part.

Let's start landing. This should be done in early spring, when the day has lengthened and there is sufficient light for begonias. So:

• Fill the container one-third with drainage material;
• charcoal – layer up to 3 cm (to prevent rot);
• planting material – begonia with an earthen clod;
• fill the empty space with substrate and compact it;
• water and place it in a permanent place.

Begonia tuberous planting and care

It should be noted that tuberous begonia must first be germinated at high humidity, without dripping, observing the temperature regime (16-18˚C), and then planted in a pot. Carefully examine the tuber: the rounded side sinks into the soil, roots will grow from it, and the concave, flattened side is the top. We immerse the tuber in the soil to the middle, leaving the top open, so it will be easier for young shoots to germinate. It happens that a tuber does not germinate, so maybe it is planted upside down? When the sprouts rise by 5 cm, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place, or it is better to simply sprinkle the tuber with soil.

Reproduction of Begonia in different ways

Once the plant has grown a bit, it's time to talk about propagation. Typically this process is carried out in several different ways:

Leaf propagation

With this method, you need to select a healthy and strong leaf and cut it along the veins so that each specimen has two veins.

Next, lay them on top of the wet sand and cover with film. The sand should be sprayed from time to time to prevent it from drying out.

As soon as you notice the appearance of the first sprouts, begin to gradually accustom them to room air. To do this, you need to open them from the film for 15 minutes and then close them again. Try to increase the time interval each time.

Propagation by stem cuttings

This type of propagation is suitable for Begonias

that have a stem. It is necessary to cut a good cutting, which has two or three leaves. The leaves located at the bottom should be removed immediately, and the upper large leaves should be cut in half. Treat the resulting cuts thoroughly with charcoal.

Prepare a pot of soil for Begonias

and with the same amount of sand, insert the cutting into it, deepening it to the very leaves. On top you need to cover it with a plastic bottle, cut in half.

After about one month, new leaves will appear on the plant. Begonia will bloom after this

in about two months.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This plant can be propagated

using rhizomes. In this case, you need to remove the plant from the pot and soak the roots in water for a while. After this, the rhizome should be carefully divided into parts so that each has a sprout or bud.

All excess unnecessary leaves and inflorescences should be removed. Be sure to treat all cuts with charcoal.

Now the plant can be planted in different pots and watered thoroughly.

By seeds This method is considered the most labor-intensive in propagating begonias, and it takes longer than other methods.

1. Begonia seeds are very small (several thousand seeds per 1 g), so when sowing they are mixed with flour or starch.
2. Seeds are sown in February-March. They are not buried, but placed on the surface.
3. Then the container with the seeds is covered with glass or transparent film and placed in a warm, illuminated place.
4. After germination, the glass or film is removed.
5. When the plants have 3-4 true leaves, pick them in separate small containers.
6. Transplantation into a pot is carried out at the age of 8 weeks.

It is possible that the begonia will bloom in the first year of its life, but for this it may require a lot of additional light.

Reproduction of tuberous Begonia

When autumn comes, the leaves of the flower are cut off, the tubers are removed from the soil, well cleaned from the soil, and then thoroughly dried.

In the spring, in May, the tubers need to be cut into a small number of parts. Make sure that roots and sprouts remain on each part of the tuber.

The side that was cut must be dipped in charcoal and placed in peat. There is no need to deepen them, since a small part of the tubers should be on the surface of the soil. Make sure that the peat does not have the opportunity to dry out. The temperature in the room below should not drop below 12 degrees.

You must be patient as the germination process this way is very slow.

Caring for indoor begonia

Home begonia in a pot: planting and care photo

You already understand that begonia needs to be looked after, it is moisture-loving, so the most important thing is to maintain optimal humidity. One way to increase air humidity near a plant is described above. It is also recommended to spray the air near the plants with a very fine spray bottle. It is also necessary to maintain soil moisture, but overwatering is also undesirable.

The soil in the pot must be moistened if the earthen ball has already dried out on top by 1 - 1.5 cm. On hot days in the summer, water more abundantly. Make sure that water does not stagnate in the roots. In winter, watering is significantly reduced, and for tuberous begonias it is completely stopped. Water for irrigation must be left for 24 hours. It is very important in the heat to never water the plants with cold water, since temperature changes are detrimental to the roots. Different varieties of begonias require different types of feeding.

If we fall in love with flowering varieties, then we need to fertilize as follows:

• at the time of budding - complex fertilizer for flowering plants (in liquid form) - 2 times a month;
• during the formation of the ovary - phosphorus-potassium (Bud, Ovary, Pollen).

We feed decorative deciduous begonias with nitrogen fertilizers. If you start pouring nitrogen into flowering begonias, they may not bloom at all. The disadvantage of begonia is that the branches can stretch, giving the bush a sloppy appearance. To eliminate this, the plant must be pinched, forming a beautiful, decorative shape.

Conditions for keeping begonias depending on the season - table

Rooted begonias in such conditions will bloom all year round or for many months (depending on the variety). For tuberous begonias, this table is only partially suitable. In autumn they are cut and stored for the winter in a dark and cool place (+12 ⁰C). Water once a month, only slightly moistening a strip of soil along the edge of the pot. At the end of February they put it out in the window, begin to water and feed it, like all other flowering varieties.

Wintering begonias

Begonia varieties photos with names Begonia rex and others

Different types of begonias overwinter in different ways. First, let's talk about evergreen begonias. Their transition to winter mode is practically unnoticeable. We give it a little rest: reduce watering, maintain high humidity and a temperature of 15-22˚ C.

As for the tuberous begonia, it needs hibernation. We reduce watering to a minimum, then stop; the above-ground part of the plant dies. This should happen in mid-autumn. Even if it seems that the flower is feeling great and is not going to go into a dormant state, still force the begonia to have a winter rest - stop watering and remove the above-ground part of the plant. Pots with tubers should be kept in a dark place, temperature 10-15 ˚ C.

There are recommendations that it is better to remove the tubers from the soil and store them in peat or substrate in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, periodically lightly moisten them, preventing them from drying out completely.

Care

Growing begonia is not difficult. Garden, royal, and ampelous varieties have fairly similar requirements.

Watering

The plant has a high need for water and nutrients. The soil should always be slightly moist, but not wet. Therefore, begonia must be watered moderately, increasing the intensity of irrigation during periods of increased growth. Do not water with too cold water, otherwise spots will appear on the leaves.

Attention! Do not overwater your begonia. The soil should not be too wet, because the plants will rot along with the tubers.

Fertilizer

Fertilizer application is an important element of care. Begonia has a high demand for minerals; the cascade variety is especially demanding of fertilizers. Therefore, like all perennial flowers, you need to feed them quite often. Use ready-made preparations intended for begonias. You can also use fertilizers for other shade-tolerant acidophilic plants. Feeding is carried out throughout the season. The best way to fertilize is to apply fertilizer with watering.

Garden care in autumn, wintering

Garden begonias are not entirely frost-resistant, so if they are grown as perennials, you need to make sure they don't freeze before winter sets in. In late autumn, the tubers are removed from the soil and, after clearing of shoots and leaves, placed in a ventilated container.

Hanging begonias growing on balconies should be treated in the same way. Immediately after the first frost, the plant should be removed from the containers, carefully shaken off the ground and trimmed at a height of about 2 cm above the tuber. After 1-2 days, when the soil is slightly dry, it is necessary to clean the tubers from any remaining soil, remove affected and damaged tubers, leave good ones in a ventilated place.

The tubers are placed in cardboard or wooden boxes and covered with peat or sand to prevent them from drying out. The temperature in a room without windows should be 3-10 degrees Celsius. Tubers overwinter in this way until spring in a dark, dry place.

If begonias are moved home for the winter, they need to be given a few months to rest from flowering. Even in hot climates, plants need rest.

Begonia care in spring

How to care for begonia at home The photo shows the variety Begonia benariensis Begonia x benariensis

Before active vegetative development of begonias begins, pay attention to the bottom of the pot. If roots are sticking out of the holes, it’s time to transplant the flower into a larger pot. The principle of choosing a pot is the same: from the edges of the rhizome to the wall - no more than 2 cm. Carefully remove the plant with a lump of earth, shake off the substrate, soak the rhizome in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about half an hour, remove rotten, dry areas of the root. Before planting, you need to rinse the root in settled water, let the root dry and plant the plant. At first, water the transplanted begonia frequently. Young bushes survive planting with ease; more mature plants are more difficult to transplant due to overgrown, fragile foliage.

In this case, there is only one recommendation - we divide already three-year-old begonias into several parts - we rejuvenate them. We begin to water the tuberous plants slowly, gradually increasing the amount of moisture as the shoots grow. If the tubers were not stored in a pot, then they need to be planted again.

Reproduction of begonia at home

Begonia can be propagated:

• seeds;
• dividing the rhizome or tuber;
• leaf cuttings;
• stems.

Growing begonia from seeds at home

Begonia from seeds photo

Practice has shown that the vegetative method of propagation is simpler and more reliable. But begonia can also be grown from seeds. You don't need to know any special techniques.

• In early spring (possibly early March), we will prepare a box with a light substrate, rarely sow seeds on top, you can moisten them with a spray bottle, there is no need to dig in the seeds: just press them lightly with your palm, as if pressing them into the ground.
• Cover with glass or film and place in a warm place. Once a day, the glass must be removed, wiped from condensation, allowed to breathe, and kept the soil moist.

Growing begonia from seeds photo

• After the shoots appear, we remove the shelter, and when 3-4 true leaves appear, we dive the seedlings into pots. Picking is the same as for any seedlings: you should carefully pick up the plant with a lump of earth (it’s convenient to do this with a dessert fork or toothpick) and move it to a hole in a separate glass, sprinkle it on it and lightly press the substrate. Sprinkle with warm water.
• After a couple of months, the seedlings can be planted in a permanent place. It is advisable to deepen the seedlings a little to obtain additional roots. Again, it's worth keeping lighting in mind. If the seedlings stood on one window, and the transplanted plants were placed on another, then the flower may become capricious, or even lose its leaves.

How to sow begonia seeds, watch the video:

Begonia can be propagated by dividing the rhizome or tuber:

• At the beginning of March, we carefully remove the plant from the pot, cut it into several parts, so that each part has roots, and always one or more buds.
• As usual, we treat the cuts with ground charcoal and let them dry a little, leaving them in the shade for 3-4 hours.
• The divisions are planted in such a way that they are not buried more than half their height. And only when rooting occurs (intensive growth of shoots will be visible), the tuber is completely covered with earth to the base of the sprouts.

To propagate begonia, simply cut the tubers with a knife, leaving one sprout for each cut.

Dividing begonia tubers is useful not only for obtaining new planting material. This is very useful for renewal and rejuvenation of plants. If the begonia is already about four to five years old and it has become less pleasing with flowering, do not be lazy and divide the tuber. Get new plants and stunning beauty on the windowsill: there will be much more color, it will become not only abundant, but also more elegant.

How to cut begonia tubers photo

By the way, usually there are only two divisions: it is easier for the sprouts not to be injured, and the plants get enough nutrients in the tuber, plus the area of ​​damage is smaller and the risk that the tuber will rot is lower.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings

Propagation of begonias by cuttings photo

The most popular vegetative method is propagation by cuttings.

• We cut the cuttings for propagation with a sharp knife from an adult begonia so that each has 3-4 leaves.
• We treat the cuts with charcoal to prevent rotting.
• Such cuttings can be rooted in water or planted in a soil mixture of sand, peat and leaf soil in equal parts.
• Moisten moderately and regularly (the soil should have time to dry 1-2 cm between waterings), protect from direct sunlight.
• Usually the cutting takes root within a month.

Begonia propagation by leaf

Reproduction of begonia by leaf photo

An interesting way is to propagate begonias by leaf. Used for begonias with large, thick leaves. Let's calcinate clean sand in advance. A good, healthy begonia leaf is planted in the prepared soil mixture. Some gardeners recommend completely cutting off the stem of the leaf and its lower part. Sometimes a circle is cut out in the center and buried in the ground with the cuts down. After planting, water regularly through a tray. You will have to wait about two months before the roots appear, then young plants will sprout, which over time must be replanted like ordinary seedlings.

How to propagate begonia by leaf photo

It’s hard to believe, but even by cutting one leaf into several parts, in two months you can get full-fledged seedlings; you just need to plant these pieces in the ground!

Begonia - care and cultivation

Despite the fact that there are so many types of begonia, they all love it when there is a lot of light and warmth. If you notice that your plant's shoots are stretching, it means it is not getting enough light. But the appearance of burns on the leaves indicates that the plant needs to be moved to another place where there is no direct sunlight.

Deciduous begonias need less light than begonias, which bloom beautifully.

As for the soil, it must be light, loose and fertile. You can prepare the soil at home yourself, but this will require a little tinkering. Or you can buy ready-made soil specifically for begonias in the store.

Begonia loves feeding, but despite this, it does not need to be fed very often. One feeding every two weeks is enough. It is imperative to alternate mineral fertilizers with organic ones.

In the fall, deciduous begonias stop feeding, and plants that bloom in winter are fed until flowering stops.

The plant needs to be replanted once every two years.

Soil and pot

When buying a pot for Begonia

, it should be taken into account that it should be several centimeters larger than the diameter of the earthen ball, since in pots that are too large, the roots of the plant may suffer from excess moisture content. And the plant itself will very slowly form future buds.

The soil for the plant must be special. For this purpose, it is better to purchase it in flower shops. But, you can also cook it yourself.

To prepare the required soil, you need to mix two parts of leaf soil with one part of humus, sand and peat.

Landing

Carrying out the process of planting a plant in a pot

, be sure to ensure that excess water is drained from the roots. To do this, place a good layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot, and be sure to pour a layer of coal on top, which will act as a disinfectant material.

After this, place the seedling in the center of the pot along with a lump of earth, and fill the resulting free space with substrate.

Next, water the flower and place it in a well-lit, permanent place of residence.

Lighting

This plant loves to be under bright light. It is the flowering specimens of the plant that usually need light the most. But from the excessive rays of the sun in the very heat of Begonia

It should still be shaded so that it does not suffer from burns.

Begonias

Decorative leaf varieties usually need diffused lighting. It is recommended to place the plant on the western or eastern side of the windowsill.

This plant loves warmth very much. The air temperature in the room should be maintained at about 22 degrees in warm weather , and about 18 in winter.

Watering

Begonia

, which grows indoors, needs to be watered quite often, once a day. But before each watering of the plant, you should carefully inspect the tray and the soil itself. In no case should water be allowed to stagnate in a pot or tray, otherwise the root system of the plant will begin to rot due to excessive waterlogging of the soil, and the flower, despite the best care for it, may die one way or another.

In winter, watering is reduced to once, maximum twice every seven days. Water the plant only when the top layer of Begonia

dry to 15 mm.

Try to water any house plants only with settled water at room temperature, and Begonia

, including.

Fertilizer application

Do you love homemade begonia flowers? Every owner wants to know how to care for it (we show you the photo). Let's start with suitable soil. To plant begonias, it is better to use soil mixtures. They can add coniferous, leaf soil, sand, charcoal. But no matter how rich the composition of the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers over time. It is very important to feed the plant correctly.

The beauty of this tropical plant is demonstrated by a photo of a begonia flower. We continue to consider in detail how to care for it. The plant urgently needs proper feeding. By fertilizing it, you add useful microelements, vitamins, and amino acids to the soil. They promote the growth and development of bushes, as well as flowering.

You don't know how to care for indoor begonia? Feed it once every 10-14 days.

When fertilizing a flower, consider the following factors:

1. Fertilizing will be absorbed much better if you create proper lighting and a suitable temperature in the room.
2. Apply fertilizer in the evening.
3. Before starting complementary feeding, moisten the soil well (2-3 hours before the procedure).
4. Make sure that the fertilizer does not come into contact with the flower.
5. Do not overdo it! Excess feeding leads to toxicosis of the flower, and then to death.

We continue to consider how to properly care for begonias. The plant especially needs phosphorus and potassium. To give him these elements, buy a special product “Begonia”. It contains all the micro- and macroelements necessary for the health and growth of bushes. The drug “Bona Forte for violets and begonias” will protect the flower from the negative effects of the environment. This product has a broad-spectrum formula. It will enrich the soil with nitrogen, humic acids, phosphorus and other useful components.

You can purchase Good Power fertilizer at any flower shop in your city. In addition to vitamins for the healthy growth of begonia, the preparation contains succinic acid. It is considered a regulator of plant development. This remedy is inexpensive but effective. “Good power” also promotes flowering and protects against various diseases. Sometimes you need to feed begonia with ammonium nitrate. If you make every effort to achieve your desire and good mood, then the flower will delight you with its healthy appearance and chic buds.

Humidity

Begonias prefer high air humidity, since in the wild these flowers grow in tropical forests; when cultivated, they also require high air humidity of 60-70%. You can increase it at home by spraying. The air around the plants should be humidified, but not the leaves themselves. These plants need to be sprayed very carefully using the smallest spray nozzle - drops of water leave unsightly spots on the leaves. It is better to place these plants on trays with damp expanded clay, in a group of plants, or use a humidifier.

If the begonia is kept too dry, the tips of the leaves dry out, the buds fall off, and the plants lose their decorative properties. Also, do not place them near central heating radiators.

Transfer

* Do not try to replant a plant you have just purchased and brought into your home. The plant will withstand the stress of changing its place of residence.

and will be sick for a very long time, postponing flowering to a later date, and the flowering period itself will noticeably decrease.

* You need to replant the plant only when you notice that there is not enough space for the roots to grow, and they begin to peek out in the drainage holes.

* When replanting, choose a pot two centimeters larger than the previous one.

* First of all, a layer of small pebbles should be placed on the bottom, then covered with a two-centimeter layer of the desired soil.

* Now you should crush the old pot on all sides and carefully remove the bush from it, being careful not to harm the roots. If necessary, the root ball should be untangled with a wooden stick, carefully straightening it.

* When you have moved the plant to a new pot, you can now cover its roots with new soil, compacting it a little.

* Now you need to water the plant with soft water.

* After transplantation, the plant will be under stress for some time. There is no need to put it in another place or move it at all. Give him time to get used to the new conditions. It usually takes about one month for a transplanted plant to adapt.

Begonia in winter

The dormant period in evergreen begonia species is weak, and tuberous species require a long rest.

How to care for begonias in winter? Caring for home begonias during the dormant period depends on the type of plant. Bush and ornamental species are kept at a temperature of 15-22 ºC, maintaining high air humidity - for this, the batteries are covered with wet towels or air humidifiers are installed.

Tuberous begonias prepare for a dormant period from mid-autumn - their leaves dry out and die, so watering must be reduced, and when the above-ground part of the plants completely dies, the pots with tubers are transferred to a dark room until the end of winter and stored at a temperature of 10-15 ºC. Sometimes tuberous begonia behaves as if it is not going to rest, and in order for it to bloom profusely next year, you will have to force it to rest: greatly reduce watering and cut off the above-ground part.

Begonia flower: how to care and how to prune

It is not necessary to prune royal begonias and its hybrids, just remove all diseased and dry leaves. In hanging begonias, it is enough to cut off only the top, as this stimulates the formation of new side shoots. Bush varieties of begonias can be pruned completely, to the very bottom bud. These begonias are not afraid of pruning and grow very quickly.

After pruning the bush begonia, watering should be reduced until new shoots begin to grow.

To prevent various diseases, you need to constantly remove all dry leaves.

Diseases and pests of domestic begonia

At home, begonia can be affected by the following diseases:

• powdery mildew (false or true);
• gray rot;
• black root rot.

As you know, powdery mildew appears as a white coating on the leaves. If the disease is not recognized in time, it will develop very quickly and the plant will die. The reason for this problem is excess humidity in the air and soil at high temperatures.

Growing begonias as a houseplant is not difficult.

Treatment methods:

• remove affected areas;
• reduce watering;
• try to reduce the temperature;
• treat with fungicide (Bordeaux mixture, Topaz...)

Rot also appears with high humidity, as well as with insufficient ventilation. The methods of control are similar, plus regular ventilation.

To prevent such diseases, in addition to proper care, you can spray healthy plants with protective fungicides. As for pests, begonia is most often damaged by:

• red spider mite;
• aphid;
• nematode.

You can get rid of mites and aphids in 2-3 weeks by treating them with Karbofos or Aktelik once a week. A plant affected by nematodes will have to be thrown out; this disease cannot be treated.

Begonia - possible problems during care and cultivation

If the plant suddenly begins to shed leaves and buds, this means that some mistakes are being made in its care, for example, the plant does not have enough watering, or the humidity is too low. The solution is to organize proper watering and high humidity.

If the leaves of a plant are pale in color, it means the plant is not getting enough light.

But if the room is cold and at the same time high humidity, then the plant may be affected by gray rot. If you see mold on the leaves, then they need to be removed urgently, and the plant itself should be treated with a special preparation.

But the appearance of a white coating on the leaves indicates that the plant has been affected by powdery mildew. This disease during the cultivation of begonia can appear from too dry air, sudden changes in temperature, or drafts. The diseased plant is treated with special preparations that are sold in any flower shop.

As for pests, aphids or spider mites can most often settle on begonias. Ticks most often appear when the air is too dry. When aphids or spider mites appear, the plant is also treated with special preparations.

Why do begonia leaves dry and other care problems?

Why do begonia leaves wither and dry? photo

• The leaves dry out (starting from the tips). This occurs at low air humidity. It can be eliminated using already known methods: place containers of water nearby, build an expanded clay humidifier tray, and regularly spray the air around the plant. Let us remind you that the plants themselves are not sprayed to avoid the appearance of brown spots on the leaves and rotting.
• The leaves are falling off. There may be several reasons: first they dry out and curl up - high temperature, wither and rot - excess moisture, thin stems and few leaves - lack of lighting.
• Pale, rotting leaves occur with excess moisture;
• Yellowing leaves - little light, unregulated humidity, low temperature for the plant.
• Brown spots on the leaves, and then a gray coating - this is gray rot.
• A powdery, unpleasant coating and unhealthy appearance is powdery mildew.
• The plant sheds buds and flowers in response to drafts, sudden changes in temperature, dry air or excessive watering.
• Yellow spots and rings appear quite rarely - this is cucumber mosaic or tomato spotting. You will have to say goodbye to such plants.

Diseases and pests

Aphids, red spider mites and nematodes can settle on indoor begonias. Mites and aphids suck the juice out of the plant, as a result of which it loses its decorative effect and its growth and development slows down. To combat aphids, Karbofos or Actellik is used, which requires 2 or 3 treatments with a break of 1–1.5 weeks. And to combat ticks they use a product such as Derris, Decis or other insectoacaricides. If infected with nematodes, the plant will have to be thrown out, since it is impossible to get rid of them. You can find out that begonia is infected with nematodes by discolored leaf blades and swellings on the root system.

Begonia is susceptible to diseases such as: gray rot, black root rot, botrytis, true or downy mildew. Fundazol, Quadris, Bordeaux mixture, Skor or another remedy with a similar effect will help cure the plant. This plant is also susceptible to infection with incurable viral or bacterial diseases, for example: bacterial wilt, cucumber mosaic, tomato spot. The infected copy must be destroyed.

Begonia dries

Sometimes it happens that the leaf plates begin to dry out. The reason for this is that the air in the room is too warm and dry, as well as excessively poor watering. In this case, the begonia should be watered and placed in a cool place, with the pot placed on an inverted tray (more on this is discussed above).

Begonia turns yellow

It happens that rings or yellow spots form on the surface of the leaf blades - this is a sign that the plant is infected with tomato spot or cucumber mosaic. Infected specimens should be destroyed. If the leaves turn yellow and droop, the reason for this is that the plant is too cold and the soil contains too much water. Wait until the substrate in the pot dries thoroughly, and then move the flower to a warm place.

Sources

• https://sadovnikam.ru/476537a-kak-uhajivat-za-begoniey-v-gorshke-posle-pokupki-osobennosti-vyiraschivaniya-tsvetka-v-domashnih-usloviyah
• https://glav-dacha.ru/begoniya-ukhod-v-domashnikh-usloviyakh/
• https://floristics.info/ru/stati/2824-begoniya-v-domashnikh-usloviyakh-vyrashchivanie-na-podokonnike.html
• https://zen.yandex.ru/media/cvety/kak-uhajivat-za-begoniei-5dc1c6399515ee00b11e3e20
• https://www.infoniac.ru/news/Kak-uhazhivat-za-cvetkom-Begoniya-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
• https://sad6sotok.ru/%D0%B1%D0%B5%D0%B3%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F-%D1%83%D1%85%D0%BE% D0%B4.html
• https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/tsvetok-begoniya-foto-i-kak-za-nim-uhazhivat.html
• https://kaktys.club/uhod/dekorativnye/begoniya-domashnyaya
• https://rastenievod.com/begoniya-domashnyaya.html

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Types and varieties of begonias with photos and names

Begonia flower photos

Due to the huge number of species and varieties of begonias, there are several classifications based on different characteristics:

• according to the characteristics of the underground part - rhizomatous, tuberous and superficial rhizomatous;
• according to the presence of flowering - into decorative deciduous and decorative flowering;
• or according to several characteristics - decorative deciduous, bushy, tuberous.

Another popular classification:

• bushy begonia with erect bamboo-like shoots;
• begonia with thick rhizomatous lodging or recumbent shoots;
• begonia with flexible drooping or creeping shoots;
• ancestors of beautiful flowering begonias.

For indoor floriculture, a different classification of begonias is used:

• decorative flowering indoor begonias;
• decorative deciduous indoor begonias;
• decorative flowering potted begonias.

Diseases and pests

Tuberous varieties of begonias do not get sick often. Sometimes they are attacked by aphids. Sometimes fungal diseases occur:

• powdery mildew,
• gray mold,
• spotting,
• rotting.

You can reduce the risk of disease by growing plants correctly and following the watering regime.

Photo. Powdery mildew on begonia leaves

Consider deciduous begonia and its types

Begonia rex Begonia rex 'China Curl' photo

Royal Begonia or Rex Begonia (Begonia rex)

One of the most interesting begonias that came to us from East India. It is distinguished by large (30 cm long, 20 cm wide), beautiful leaves, bare or with a slight edge, asymmetrical. The shape of the leaf resembles a heart, the edges are wavy and uneven. The color of the leaf can be brown with a bronze tint, red, purple, with spots of silver. On its basis, many decorative-deciduous hybrids have been bred.

Begonia rex Silver Greenhart Silver Greenhart photo

Silver Greenheart has irregular heart-shaped leaves. The main tone is silver, along the edges it is bright green with silver streaks.

Begonia rex Cartagena Begonia Cartagena photo

Cartagena - the leaf is wrapped like a shell, round in shape, dark green. In young plants, the middle of the leaf and the edges are brown, and later become dark plum. From the middle to the edge of the leaf: silvery spots with a pink tint are scattered on a green background.

Royal Begonia Chocolate cream Begonia Chocolate cream photo

Chocolate Cream - silver leaves with a pink tint, the center is a dark purple spot, the shape is spiral.

Royal begonia Hallelujah Hallelujah photo

Hallelujah is a soft purple sheet with multi-colored inserts: the center and edge are dark wine color, the middle is green with small silver splashes. At the base the leaves are twisted into a spiral.

Queen Begonia Evening Glow Begonia Queen Evening Glow photo

Evening Glow - bright, medium-sized leaves with a crimson center and the same edges. From the center to the edge they are decorated with a greenish-brown mesh.

Royal begonia charm begonia charm photo

Charm - large green leaves curl in a spiral, starting from the stem. The leaf surface is painted with dark brown veins and small whitish spots.

November cold is of interest to beginning flower growers, as it is one of the most unpretentious begonias. The main tone of the leaf is silver, and the center, edges, and veins are dark burgundy.

Royal begonia Silver Corkscrev silver korkscrev photo

Silver Corscrew - solid leaves of a silver tone are characteristically twisted into a spiral. The veins are raised, green. The plant is neat, reaches a height of 40-45 cm.

Royal Begonia Black Fang Black Fang photo

Black Fang is the star of the stars. It is striking in its original coloring: a red-black leaf with lemon-yellow veins is twisted into a double spiral at the base. It delights with its unsurpassed quality, especially if kept in a well-lit place.

Mason's Begonia Iron Cross Begonia Iron Cross (Begonia masoniana) photo

Iron cross - a distinctive feature is a window in the form of a Maltese cross of a dark brown color, the leaf plate itself is a deep pink shade.

Royal begonia African jungle photo Begonia rex 'African Jungle'

African jungle - dark green leaf with burgundy veins. The window (center) and edges are pale pink, and there are also droplets of the same color.

Royal Begonia Vesuvius Begonia Vesuvius

Vesuvius - a dark red leaf canvas is bordered by a stripe of bright red splashes.

Royal begonia Mary Christmas Begonia rex 'Curly Merry Christmas' (=Begonia 'Merry Christmas Corkscrew')

Mary Christmas - a massive leaf of three colors: the central window is pink, then silver, and bright lime along the edge.

Royal Begonia Demon photo

Demon is a bright begonia in green tones. The olive center is shaded with a silver outline, followed by a narrow emerald stripe. There is a green frill along the edge. Plant height – up to 50 cm.

Begonia bowerae 'Tiger'

Tiger begonia, or Bauer's begonia (Begonia bowerae) is native to Mexico. The creeping plant does not exceed 25 cm in height. The leaves are light green, spotted. The back side of the leaf is pubescent. It produces light pink, faded, drooping inflorescences. It is rare in the natural environment, but thanks to the work of breeders, interesting hybrids have been developed.

Royal begonia Cleopatra photo

Cleopatra - has a brown-green leaf color (depending on the lighting), the edges of the leaves are jagged, and the leaves are reddish underneath. Easily propagated by rooted shoots.

Tiger is a low begonia (10 cm), creeping stems, velor, bronze leaves, brown streaks along the veins, reddish petioles.

Coral begonia (Begonia corallina)

Coral begonia Begonia corallina photo

A subshrub, native to Brazil, at home grows up to 1 m. Stems without leaves, straight, like bamboo. Impressive leaves measuring 20x7 cm. The leaves are dark green on top with white speckles, light green below (in summer they can acquire a red tint). Racemose inflorescences of coral shades look impressive against the background of greenery. Coral begonia looks most interesting not on the windowsill, but on low stands. In general, this is a luxurious decoration for the home.

The best varieties:

President Carnot - there are white inclusions on a dark green leaf, the leaf blade is dissected at the base. Giant leaves - length up to 30 cm, width - 15 cm;

Alfalfa – Large green leaves with jagged edges and a red back.

Begonia carolineifolia photo

Caroline begonia (Begonia carolineifolia) is native to Mexico, but has long been used for home floriculture. It has a thick (up to 4 cm) creeping stem, leaves are palmately dissected in diameter - 35 cm. The flowers are greenish-pink, collected in loose racemes. Begonia usually blooms in February.

Begonias everblooming

Begonia ever-blooming Begonia semperflorens planting and care photo

Ever-flowering begonia (Begonia semperflorens) is a medium-sized bush, no higher than 60 cm. When young, it has erect shoots; when mature, the stems take on an ampelous shape. The leaves are round, green and sometimes red, with a pubescent edge. The flowers are simple and double, about 2 cm in size, painted in white, pink and red tones.

The inflorescences are short-lived, wither quickly, but the next ones bloom immediately. To maintain constant flowering, it is recommended to immediately remove faded inflorescences. With good care, begonia can bloom in winter. It is necessary to extend daylight hours (there are special biolamps). With age, it loses its attractiveness, so it is necessary to renew it from cuttings every 2-3 years.

Here are examples of well-known varieties of ever-flowering begonia:

Begonia ever-blooming variety Nightlife rose photo

Carmen, Ambergris - medium height begonias with many pink flowers, brown leaves.

Orange begonia begonia elatior catrin

Orange is a low bush, green leaves edged with red, orange flowers.

Bikola - reaches a height of 14 cm, decorated with white flowers with a pink edge against a background of green foliage.

Begonia fuchsia photo

Fuchsiform - inflorescences resemble fuchsia;

Gustav Knaake - plant height up to 30 cm, green leaves with red edges, bright red inflorescences, flowers up to 3 cm in diameter.

Begonia x elatior

Begonia Elatior Begonia x hiemalis, Begonia Elatior

The leader among domestic begonias. The hybrid reaches 40 cm in height, blooms elegantly and profusely against the backdrop of bright, glossy foliage. Common varieties:

Louise – light beige flowers have a pink tint;

Begonia Renaissance Begonia elatior 'Renaissance Eden' photo

Renaissance – double variety – red flower petals are ruffled, tall plant;

Rose - speaks for itself, double flowers in a classic deep pink color, reminiscent of roses;

Piccora - a low-growing variety, double flowers, deep pink;

Schwaberland is a tall bush with small red flowers.

Begonia x tuberhybrida pendula

Ampelous begonia Begonia x tuberhybrida pendula Illumination Apricot photo

So far we have talked about begonias that decorate window sills, flower stands, shelving, in general, our house, the inside of our apartment. However, in the spring-summer period, you really want to decorate it outside. The ampelous begonia with its drooping shoots, which cascade down and are decorated with many flowers, is perfect for this. The colors will also please you. This is white, yellow, pink, red, orange in its pure form, or more often a combination of them. Flowers can be simple or double, small, medium or large.

Let's consider several varieties of this species:

Christie - a fairly branched bush with large white flowers, hanging shoots, up to 40 cm;

Gale is a spreading begonia with large (up to 3 cm) semi-double flowers of a pale pink tone, stems about 30 cm long, green foliage;

Kati is a spreading begonia, insufficiently strong shoots grow up to 30 cm, blooms with large yellow flowers;

Roxana is a neat, dense bush with hanging shoots reaching 40 cm in length, orange flowers up to 4 cm in diameter;

Chanson is an excellent begonia with double flowers. Flowers up to 8 cm in diameter come in white, pink, red, and carmine shades.

We will also present several varieties of decorative flowering begonias:

Decorative flowering begonia Begonia Silk Flowers photo

Gold Dress is a branched bush, not very wide, with huge flowers up to 20 cm in diameter against a background of bright light foliage. The flowers are also yellow, double, pink-shaped;

Harlequin is a spreading bush with magnificent twelve-centimeter flowers. The yellow ruffled petals end in a red edge. Plant height 25 cm;

Camellia Flora is a compact, erect plant with pink, camellia-shaped flowers;

Decorative flowering begonia Premium Dark Scarlet photo

Dark Red - dark red, this is the color of double flowers, shaped like peony flowers, size - no more than 10 cm. A small (about 15 cm) semi-spreading bush has light green foliage;

Admi Jean Bard - a minimalist begonia with bright orange flowers, collected in inflorescences of 5 pieces, its leaves are small, green;

Begonia Crispa Marginata yellow-red photo

Crispa Marginata - a low bush (up to 15 cm) has large white or yellow flowers measuring 12 cm with a pink border, leaves are folded, green with purple edges;

Marmorata - a spreading bush with double flowers of bright red color with white streaks;

Terry begonia Diana Vinyard planting and care photo

Diana Vinyard - double begonia 20 cm high. Large white flowers 20 cm across have folded wavy petals;

Feuerflamme - crimson veins are visible on the green foliage, the flowers are semi-double, orange.

Benefits of growing begonias at home:

• air humidity increases, which has a beneficial effect on the skin;
• Begonia absorbs harmful substances from the air, thereby purifying the air. Used as an “antimicrobial” agent, it reduces the content of staphylococci in the air by 80%;
• the plant contains organic acids and tannins, which have antiallergic and antiseptic properties;
• It is useful to have begonia at home for smokers and people suffering from chronic bronchitis;
• the immunity of people living in the apartment increases;
• begonia eliminates the feeling of fatigue and restores performance;
• reduces nervous tension.

In folk medicine, begonia infusion is used to treat alcoholism . To do this, pour 2 tablespoons of crushed leaves with a tablespoon of olive oil, leave for 2 hours and take orally. Do this three times a day for a month.

To treat wounds and burns : pass washed and dried leaves through a meat grinder, squeeze out the juice, dilute with water 1:1 and make compresses. The juice can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than three days.

Plant energy

Begonia is a kind of energy filter: it absorbs all the energy in a row and releases only positive energy. Royal begonia will help speed up the pace of your life and give you determination. In general, begonia is a plant for businessmen and promotes successful trade deals.

Begonia is also useful for sentimental people; it makes them more balanced and not prone to depression. Begonia also helps to “gather thoughts together” and make the right decision. Grow this beautiful plant, good luck!