The most common diseases and pests of indoor azaleas

Azaleas (or, as they are also called, rhododendrons) are flowering plants grown at home and in the open ground. Potted evergreen shrubs require maintenance in certain conditions - cool air and high humidity. They are sensitive to soil composition, lighting and watering. Violation of agrotechnical recommendations leads to weakening of the plant. An azalea with reduced immunity is defenseless against diseases and pests. From the article you will learn about the ailments of rhododendron (such as brown stems and roots, falling leaves, etc.), see their photos, and become familiar with methods of treating diseases and controlling pests.

What can indoor rhododendron suffer from?

Plant diseases are negative conditions caused by viruses, bacteria, fungi or improper care. Azaleas react to a lack and excess of nutrients and the degree of soil moisture. Characteristic symptoms:

• drying of leaves and buds;
• discoloration, appearance of spots;
• falling leaves and flowers;
• root rotting;
• growth retardation.

Pests are insects that have settled on a plant. Phytophages feed on azalea sap, causing wilting, yellowing of leaves and deformation of buds. One of the dangers is the spread of viruses and fungal infections by pests.

Determination of plant diseases and parasites

A plant disease is a change in its condition under the influence of the pathogenic activity of bacteria, viruses or fungi.

It allows you to suspect the development of a disease in a plant:

Pests are insects that feed on plant sap . In order to get to valuable moisture, phytophages damage the leaves and buds of azaleas, causing them to wither and fall. Insects often become carriers of fungal or viral infections.

How to determine the cause of the disease?

If you notice a deterioration in the condition of a houseplant, you should carefully examine it and the soil in the pot. If small phytophagous pests are found, then you need to fight them. Usually insects are found on greenhouse and garden specimens, but they also get into the house without problems. In other cases, agrotechnical care is reviewed and the symptoms of the disease are studied.

To establish the cause of the disease, you must:

1. Take into account all agrotechnical factors:
2. watering frequency;
3. soil composition;
4. feeding;
5. temperature;
6. humidity level;
7. illumination

Deviations from the norms recommended for azaleas lead to a deterioration in the condition of the plant.

• Study the signs of fungal infections and the effects of pests, compare them with the condition of the plant.

How to resuscitate?

How to resuscitate and revive an azalea, what to do if it has dried up or how to save a dried up azalea?

You need to prepare:

• soil;
• sand;
• ice;
• cold water;
• Activated carbon;
• ash;
• boric acid (citric);
• pine needles;
• drug "Zircon".

The azalea is removed from the pot and the roots are dipped in cold water and washed carefully. Having cleared the substrate, place the plant under a stream of cool running water, plant it in prepared soil (intended for flowers) and leave overnight.

In the morning, cover the soil with ice and water with cold water.

It is necessary to protect the azalea from direct rays of the sun.

Prepare settled water (2 days) by placing a few drops of acid (citric or boric) and the Zircon preparation into it.

Water the azalea with this solution until the result is achieved. The pot with the azalea should be placed on a tray with wet expanded clay and left in a draft (in the refrigerator in the summer). Water every other day with cold water and place pine needles on top of the soil.

Treatment methods at home

Treatment of diseases is an integral part of flower care. Most problems can be eliminated by establishing optimal conditions. In the fight against infections and viruses, special drugs will be required. Common azalea problems include the following.

Drying of the bush

The main reasons causing azaleas to dry out:

In the first case, it is recommended to increase the volume of water during irrigation. The soil must be moistened after the top layer has dried. If a lump of earth is too dry, water does not stay in it. To saturate the plant with moisture, the pot is lowered into a container of water for 15-20 minutes.

Azalea prefers cool weather; in the heat, it loses leaf turgor and withers. In summer, the plant is kept at a temperature no higher than 20-22°, and in winter – 15-16°. For azaleas, you should find a place away from heating devices.

An evergreen plant requires timely watering and moist air. During the operation of heating devices, the problem of dry air is solved by additional humidification. The pot with the azalea is placed on a tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles.

You will find more information about why azalea leaves dry and what to do in this case in a separate article.

Yellowing of the crown

Changes in leaf color occur when the soil is depleted and the content of calcium salts is high. Using hard water for irrigation changes the acidity of the soil. In alkaline and neutral soil, azalea does not absorb iron and magnesium well. The result is chlorosis. For treatment, it is necessary to water the plant with acidified water (3 drops of lemon per 1 liter of water) and apply mineral fertilizers for the azalea.

We wrote more about why rhododendron leaves and other organs turn yellow and how to save the plant here.

Blackening of foliage

Examination of the plant and the nature of the spread of the problem will help determine the cause of the darkening of the leaves.

• Black spots on the inside of the leaf blade may indicate a black thrips infestation. The pest is destroyed with Karbofos emulsion.
• The spread of darkening to the stem is similar to the manifestation of fusarium. Watering will allow you to correct the diagnosis - deterioration of the plant’s condition confirms a fungal infection.

In case of minor damage, the bush is saved by treatment with Fundazol. At a late stage, the azalea cannot be saved. It is destroyed along with the soil to prevent the spread of the disease.

Find out what to do if the leaves of an azalea turn black and fall off in our article.

Shedding of leaves and buds

Leaf loss is a common problem with recently purchased azaleas. They suffer from a lack of nutrients in the soil and changing climatic conditions. To save the plant, the following actions are recommended:

1. Transfer the bush into a pot of larger diameter and fill the free space with soil for azaleas.
2. Spray the plant with a growth stimulator - Novosil or Epin.
3. Place the bush under a plastic film that provides high humidity and a stable microclimate.
4. Ventilate the plant daily.

Common diseases of indoor flowers

1. Drying - occurs for many reasons, in particular due to incorrect temperature conditions, incorrectly selected substrate, lack of timely fertilizing and insufficient lighting, exposure of the plant to direct sunlight or various diseases of the root system.
   When drying out, it is worth taking a closer look at the plant to determine its causes. Attention! If, when examining the azalea, you did not see living buds, then the plant will no longer be able to be revived.
2. Yellowing of leaves. There may also be several reasons:
   Development of chlorosis. In this case, the water for irrigation must be acidified (with citric acid or other acids).
3. Damage by scale insects. To get rid of it, you need to treat the leaves with soapy water or chemicals.
4. Blackening of the leaves can occur as a result of damage by black thrips. The pest lives on the inside of the leaf blade, where black or grayish spots form. In such cases, the azalea must be treated with chemicals.
5. Shedding. If the leaves fall in winter, then in this case we are talking about the dormant period of the plant after flowering. If the leaves fall off even though the plant has not yet bloomed, this indicates improper care of the flower.
6. Brown and brown spots on leaves. The reason is unsuitable conditions of detention.
7. Brown spots on leaves – the reason is waterlogging of the soil.
   Why azalea leaves grow very light and undergo other changes is described here.

   Azalea is very picky about temperature and many problems in growing arise due to its high temperatures. The optimal temperature for azaleas is 17 degrees Celsius.

8. Buds fall off due to dry soil, high temperature or dry air.
9. If moss has formed in the pot , this indicates excess moisture, which is a favorable environment for various types of rot.

How to determine the cause of rhododendron disease?

If you notice a deterioration in the condition of a houseplant, you should carefully examine it. If pests are found, it is, of course, worth fighting them. In other cases, it is necessary to reconsider agrotechnical care and study the symptoms of the disease. Afterwards it will be clear what the plant is infected with.

What is the danger to the plant?

Any disease threatens azaleas with gradual death if treatment is not started in time. The sooner you start resuscitating the plant, the greater the chances of saving it.

Insects and measures to combat them

A common cause of illness and death of azaleas is the appearance of pests:

• The rhododendron bug is a winged insect measuring 3-3.5 mm. Lays eggs on the back of leaves, covering them with resinous secretions. Adults and larvae suck the sap of the plant. The leaves turn yellow and curl. Pests are destroyed with insecticides “Decis” and “Fury”.
• Mealybug - the body of the parasite is covered with a white waxy coating. It affects all parts of the plant. The secretions of scale insects contribute to the spread of sooty fungi. Control measure: treatment with Actellik.
• Weevil - adult beetles eat the edges of leaves, buds and buds. The larvae in the soil damage the roots. The following products are used against weevils: “Bazudin”, “Aktara”.
• Beetleworm - a beetle that eats leaves, leaving only the veins. The remedy is Diazinon.
• Slug - feeds at night on young plants, eating the rudiments of leaves. Insects are collected using traps and Mesurol is used.
• Thrips – Greenhouse or black thrips eat azalea leaves. Due to damage they turn yellow and fall off. Insects are removed with a solution of Karbofos.
• Moth – The pest of the bush is the caterpillars of the azalea moth. They feed and pupate on leaves. Fumigation and spraying with sulfur are used against the pest.
• Fly - rhododendron fly is a specific pest that sucks sap from leaves. It gets rid of it with nicotine sulfate.
• Aphids are small insects that live in colonies. Their vital activity slows down the growth of bushes and leads to a delay in flowering. Aphids carry viruses. Karbofos and Actellik are used in pest control.
• The whitefly is a butterfly that sucks the juice of azaleas. The plant is stunted, withers and dies. The bushes are washed with soapy water and sprayed with Aktara.
• Mite - 3 types of mites parasitize azaleas - red, strawberry and spider mites. Adults and larvae damage the tops of shoots, flowers, and leaves. Pests hide on the underside of leaves, making detection difficult. Actellik is used to kill ticks.

Watch a video about what pests affect azaleas and how to deal with them.

Below you can see photos of common azalea diseases and pests.

What diseases and pests threaten azaleas? Description, photo, recommendations for fighting

Diseases and pests of azaleas can cause trouble for a lover of indoor plants.
Lush flowering and luxurious green leaves are excluded when affected by a virus, fungus or parasite. Timely diagnosis and the correct choice of method to combat the problem ensure rapid recovery of the plant, otherwise its death is possible.

Further care

Basic recommendations for flower care are as follows:

• The shrub requires good lighting, but without direct sunlight.
• It is recommended to fertilize in summer and autumn, before setting buds. It is better to reduce the fertilizer concentration by 1.5 times.
• Water only with soft water - melted or boiled, and acidify with lemon once a week.
• Avoid drafts and sudden changes in temperature.
• Dry air is detrimental to the plant.
• At temperatures below 15°, azalea is not sprayed.

There are enough modern drugs to combat diseases and pests of ornamental plants. But it is more important to provide the flowers with optimal conditions under which problems will not arise. Caring for azaleas is not easy, but the abundant and long-lasting flowering of the bushes will be a worthy reward for your efforts.

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Diseases and pests in azaleas will appear due to the lack of high-quality drainage, excess moisture in the soil, and sudden changes in temperature.

How to care for indoor azalea

Indoor azalea is a capricious plant that requires careful care. How to care for indoor azalea: the plant loves cool temperatures, the optimal temperature is +10 +15 °C. This temperature regime stimulates flowering, which occurs in late winter - early spring. To extend the flowering period, you need to lower the temperature to +8°C. The plant should be watered with softened water (melt, rain or boiled sediment) so that the soil is always moist, but not sour. In a warm and dry room, the azalea must be moistened by spraying 1-2 times a day.

Photo of azaleas indoors

The plant should be placed in a well-lit place, but not exposed to direct sunlight. After the flowering period, all faded flowers must be removed along with the peduncle. Browned leaves are also removed. A month after flowering, when 3-4 pairs of leaves appear on the young shoots, pinch off the tops of the shoots. The procedure is repeated 3 times a year. The last time before the buds begin to lay is in July, early August. This is a mandatory procedure that increases the intensity of flowering.

An adult plant over 3 years old must be replanted once every 2 years, and a young one annually in a soil composition of river sand, coniferous soil and peat in a ratio of 0.5:2:1. Since the root system of azaleas is horizontal, they need to be replanted in a wide, flat pot.

In winter and autumn, the plant needs to be fed once every 2 weeks in the evenings after watering with a chlorine-free mineral fertilizer or a special fertilizer for azaleas. It is recommended to water the azalea with a plant acidifier. For example: for 1 liter of water 2 g of citric acid. With proper care, azalea blooms so profusely that the leaves are not visible behind its flowers.

Fungal infections and infections

Excessive watering, lack of drainage, and disturbed temperature conditions provoke fungal infections. Often, fungal infection occurs through the soil. If there are symptoms of fungal infections, be sure to isolate the azalea from other indoor plants. It is best to disinfect the windowsill and plant pots.

Alternaria blight

A characteristic sign of azalea Alternaria blight is the appearance of dark red spots of varying sizes and shapes. To combat this type of lesion, a solution of Bordeaux mixture is used as a fungicide.

Botrytis, gray mold or mold

Gray rot, caused by fungi of the genus Botrytis, develops on the leaves, stems and buds of azaleas. A sign of the disease are vague brown spots. Damaged plant tissues dry out in a short time. The cause may be poor air circulation in the room. As a control measure, use a soap solution and treat with insecticides.

Root rot

Late blight spreads to the stem and leaves of the azalea, which contributes to complete rotting of the plant. Signs: dying buds and curling leaves. The cause may be high humidity and high temperature. Bordeaux mixture and Fitoverm are used as a control measure in the initial stages.

Anthracnose or rust

The disease is more typical for tropical climates, since anthracnose develops at temperatures above 23°C. Characteristic signs are swellings that are red, brown or yellow. The leaves of the affected plant fall off. For treatment, spraying with preparations containing copper is recommended. For example, Bordeaux mixture.

Cercospora

With cercospora blight, angular brown spots with a dark red rim can be seen on the underside of the leaves. A gray coating forms on the upper part of the leaf blade. The leaves of the lower tiers are more affected. Treatment consists of alternate use of Ditan M-45 and Fundazol.

Powdery mildew

The main reasons for the appearance of this azalea disease are poorly circulating moist air and sudden changes in temperature. A white or reddish powdery coating forms on the affected parts. Infection begins on the lower layers of leaves and gradually spreads to the entire plant. For treatment, you can use a soda solution, as well as fungicides (dosage according to the instructions).

Sooty mushroom

It mainly affects weakened and young plants. Often the sooty fungus settles on the sticky secretion of azalea pests - whiteflies, aphids. Colonies of sooty fungus contribute to the death of the affected parts of the azalea. The leaves are covered with a dark gray coating. For prevention, regular ventilation is necessary, for treatment - a soap solution and treatment with fungicides.

Azalea diseases and their treatment

Houseplant diseases can occur for several reasons - the negative impact of microorganisms (fungi, viruses, bacteria) and improper maintenance conditions. When the disease occurs, azalea development stops and the color of the leaves changes. Spots and tissue necrosis appear. In a neglected state, leaves, buds and flowers fall off, the plant withers and dries out.

How to grow azalea without suffering from illnesses? To do this, you need to know the main diseases in order to provide your green pet with quality care in a timely manner.

Azalea root rot (late blight)

Late blight (late blight) is a dangerous fungal disease. Brown-purple spots appear on leaves or twigs, which increase in size and become darker over time. The affected areas become deformed, become moldy and rot.

The disease spreads quickly throughout the plant, so at the first sign of late blight, urgent measures must be taken.

If a disease is detected, it is necessary to remove the damaged parts of the plant by treating the cut areas with crushed activated carbon. Then transplant the plant into a new pot. You should first disinfect the new soil for the azalea (scald the pot with boiling water). After transplantation, the flower must be treated with a fungicide.

The most common causes of late blight are waterlogging, stagnation of soil in a container, and dense earthen substrate. Fungus may appear after regular use of rainwater for irrigation.

Tracheomycosis of azalea (fusarium)

The disease is caused by the Fusarium fungus. The following signs indicate its presence:

Sometimes you can see dark spots with a gray coating on the leaves and trunk of an azalea. This is the spore-bearing mycelium, which can quickly destroy the plant. Fusarium most often affects young or weakened plants. The fungus can be introduced when using soil taken from a garden or vegetable garden. Measures to combat the disease consist of transplanting the plant into a new pot, replacing the soil and treating it with fungicides. Damaged parts of the indoor flower should be removed and destroyed.

Anthracnose azalea

The affected plant stops growing and developing, the buds fall off. The decorative qualities of azaleas deteriorate.

Anthracnose actively develops on the plant with poor ventilation and too much watering. Fungal spores are easily carried by pests of indoor plants, as well as by the wind. If a disease is detected, the flower must be isolated from other indoor plants. Remove damaged parts, wash the plant under a warm shower and replant it in a new pot with a complete replacement of soil. After transplanting into purchased ready-made soil, you can not use fertilizers for azaleas for six months. Be sure to treat with any contact fungicide.

Alternaria azalea

A fungal disease causes leaf spots. Contrasting dark brown spots with clear boundaries are formed. The lesion is quite dense to the touch and covered with a fleecy coating. Over time, the affected areas increase in size and merge. The leaf dries completely. Spores of a harmful fungus are carried by wind, rain, and insects. Favorable conditions for the development of the disease are frequent changes in air temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation.

Bordeaux mixture can be used to treat the disease. Before using the drug, you must carefully read the instructions. You can also use folk remedies - treat the plant with a solution of sulfur (60-70 grams per 10 liters of water) or potassium permanganate (2.5 grams/10 liters).

A good result is shown by treating the damaged plant with a solution of soda ash. To prepare it you will need 50 grams. soda and 40 gr. laundry soap. The ingredients should be dissolved in 10 liters. warm water. It is recommended to grate the soap.

Azaleas downy mildew (downy mildew)

This type of disease often appears at high air humidity in insufficiently ventilated areas. Yellow spots appear on the upper side of azalea leaves, which become darker in color over time. From the lower part you can see a light gray coating. The affected areas gradually dry out and become deformed.

Downy mildew is a complex disease. To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to treat the leaves with preparations containing copper and sulfur. Fungicides “Skor” and “Topaz” show high efficiency. When growing azaleas from seeds at home, it is necessary to process the seed.

Cercospora

A fungal disease is expressed in the appearance of numerous dark spots of small diameter on the leaves of the plant. If the problem is not identified and eliminated in time, the spots will grow and necrosis will form. The leaf dries up and falls off.

To prevent the disease, it is necessary to ensure the correct conditions for keeping the plant. Avoid sudden changes in temperature and waterlogging of the soil. Fungicides should be used for treatment. The drugs show the greatest effectiveness in the first two weeks after the formation of lesions.

Insects - pests and how to deal with them

Most often, symptoms of azalea damage appear in the form of poor growth, lack of flowering, and spots on the leaves. Some insect pests carry fungal infections.

Important! When using chemicals to control pests, carefully read the instructions for use.

Spider mite

Excessively dry air can cause spider mites to appear where leaves attach. A characteristic feature is a cobweb. The mite especially prefers the Sims azalea. Treatment: at the initial stage, use a warm shower, followed by a soap solution or garlic infusion. In case of severe damage - acaricides.

Mole

Azaleas have a specific pest - the azalea moth, a sign of which is drying of the leaves. The pest forms cocoons on the underside of leaves, continuing reproduction. Treatment: fumigation of azalea with sulfur vapor. Rogor solution is also used for destruction.

Mealybug

The main signs of the appearance of the pest are the formation of a light cotton wool-like waxy coating and sugary discharge. Treatment: eliminating traces of scale insects with a damp sponge with garlic tincture and soap or onion juice. In case of severe damage, Inta-vir or malathion will come to the rescue.

Rhododendron bug

Dark brown excrement on the bottom of the leaves is a sign of bedbug activity. Affected leaves curl and dry out. The pest reproduces in dry weather under the influence of the sun. The mode of distribution is the substrate soil, for example, heather soil. Treatment: use of insecticides Bi-58, kinmiks, malathion, decis.

Aphid

Due to aphid infestation, azalea leaves curl and lose their healthy appearance. The vital activity of aphid colonies slows down the growth and flowering of the plant, because damaged buds do not bloom. The most likely period of infection is from January to June. Treatment: spraying with karbofos, fitoverm or actellik is recommended.

Thrips

Greenhouse or black thrips eat azalea leaves, leaving characteristic holes. Due to damage, the leaves first become dull and then turn yellow and fall off. The development and flowering of azaleas slows down. Treatment: to combat insects, use a 0.3% nicotine solution or a 0.2% malathion emulsion.

Scale insect and false scale insect

A characteristic sign of the pest is yellow or brown spots along the veins of the leaves. False scale insects secrete a liquid secretion. The difficulty of treatment lies in the wax shield that protects pests from chemicals. A combined method of control is required: mechanical cleaning and treatment with actara.

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The rhododendron genus is large and diverse. It includes evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs, shrubs, and sometimes trees. Translated from Greek rhododendron means “rose tree”. But rhododendron from the heather family has nothing to do with roses from the Rosaceae family. They are connected only by the beauty of flowering and the huge variety of species and varieties.

From year to year, the culture is becoming more and more popular, and breeders are creating more and more new and unusual varieties. Today, there are more than a hundred hybrids and varietal forms of garden azaleas, caring for which in open ground is not as difficult as many people believe

Rhododendron and azalea - what's the difference? Interestingly, rhododendron was originally called oleander, although these are two completely different plants from different families. And only in 1583 the term “Rhododendron” was assigned to a specific species - R. rusty (Rhododendron ferrugineum). And 180 years later, the naturalist K. Linnaeus found and sorted 9 species - 6 deciduous and 3 evergreen. He then isolated deciduous species into a separate genus - azalea (Azalea).

Just a couple of decades ago, garden azalea was considered a greenhouse or indoor plant, but in the last decade in our country, gardeners began to grow the plant in open ground.

Large-flowered and Japanese azaleas are popular among highly decorative species.

The basis of hybrid varieties that can withstand the moderate winters of Central Russia in open ground is Japanese, which is considered the national plant in its homeland. The ancestors of greenhouse varieties are heat-loving Indian azaleas

According to the modern classification of ornamental plants, they are called rhododendrons. In addition to azaleas, this family includes wild rosemary, ledebur and kashkara. Azaleas in the garden differ from them in the following ways:

— It is common in southern, temperate and northern climates. Daurian rhododendron, for example, can only grow in cold regions.

— Plant height is not limited by selection, like many other species. Azalea can reach both 30 cm and 80 cm in height. The diameter of the flower calyx varies from 2 cm to 20 cm.

— Garden azalea seedlings cannot grow in wet soil. After being in water-filled soil for at least a week, they will not produce a single flower.

In addition to white, pink, yellow, purple, red or orange, there are varieties with multi-colored buds, which makes the plants even more decorative. Lush flowering, subject to the rules of agricultural technology, lasts from 3 to 10 weeks.

The appearance of the ovary is one of the most pressing questions, the answer to which is of interest to any owner of a flower bed with rhododendrons. You can find it by focusing on the flowering times of garden bush azaleas:

- early varieties are covered with flowers in May-June; - mid-late ones bloom from January to March; - in the later stages, the ovary becomes visible by March-April.

Rhododendrons, the cultivation of which is most acceptable in Russia, are limited to 26 species belonging to three groups of plants.

Evergreens are tall shrubs that do not shed their dark, leathery foliage even in winter. Large flowers are painted in different colors and tones. Growing evergreen rhododendrons in open ground requires compliance with a number of necessary rules: plants are located in places with diffuse shade; the soil for them should include a large amount of peat.

Intermediate (semi-evergreen) - low shrubs that winter well under a layer of snow. The plant is characterized by a compact shape and a huge number of flowers during the flowering period. In winter, the main part of the leathery leaves falls off, leaving only a whorl of leaves at the ends of the branches, from the center of which new foliage grows.

Deciduous - rhododendrons of this group are most adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Growing these plants is not difficult, and the plants themselves do not require special adaptation in winter. Flowering in spring, repeated in autumn.

You should know: Honey from the nectar of some types of rhododendron has hallucinogenic and laxative properties. Even the ancient Romans and Greeks spoke about the side effects of rhododendron honey.

Varieties and types

Dahurian rhododendron is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upward. The ellipse-shaped foliage is about 4 cm in length and up to 1.5 cm in width. The inflorescences are single, soft purple in color. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully appeared.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky is an evergreen bush with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds its height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach is an accelerating species about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink with splashes, the flower diameter is about 10 cm.

Deciduous rhododendron is quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are almost completely invisible. Height is about one meter. Inflorescences are bell-shaped. The color of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

Japanese rhododendron is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. In autumn it has a yellowish-red tint. The inflorescences are scarlet, sunny in color, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Flowering duration is more than a month.

Caucasian rhododendron is about 1 meter 20 centimeters in height. With a brown tint to the bark. The shoots are more accelerating in nature. The foliage is oblong and oval shaped. The inside of the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.

Golden rhododendron is not a large shrub. The shoots are spreading. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is olive in color, and the inside is a less clear shade. Inflorescences on high stalks, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, a fruit capsule with small seeds is formed. The aroma of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.

Rhododendron is a yellow growing shrub. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. The inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

Rhododendron Yakushiman is not a three-dimensional tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy on the outside. The leaves have a dark olive hue on the outside, and on the inside they have a chocolate hue with small fibers. The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. When they begin flowering, the petals have a pale pink tint, and by the end they acquire a rich white color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

planting and care

The more attention you pay to the rhododendron at the planting stage, the more successful the result will be.

Rhododendron propagation methods:

- Sowing seeds for seedlings with growing in containers for several years. -Cuttings. -Laying.

Alternative methods are:

- division of bushes, used on old, strongly growing plants; -grafting cuttings of rare varieties onto rootstocks of winter-hardy and hardy rhododendrons.

Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings Despite the fact that rhododendrons are considered slow-growing shrubs, there are no particular difficulties in the process of cuttings. The shoots take root in a few months according to the standard method, and the plants can bloom even the next year.

On average, rooting cuttings of rhododendrons takes from 2 to 3 months. Cuttings take root most quickly from deciduous rhododendrons, in which the first roots can appear within 5-6 weeks. Evergreen species can take root in 4-5 months

Cuttings of rhododendrons are carried out only in the first half of summer (or late spring - for early flowering species and varieties).

For cuttings, choose strong and healthy, semi-lignified or beginning to woody annual shoots. When cutting cuttings, it is worth leaving standard apical or stem cuttings from the top of the branches with a length of 7 to 10 cm, and for rhododendrons with a sparse arrangement of leaves - up to 15 cm. For deciduous species, it is better to choose apical cuttings. The lower leaves must be removed from the cuttings, leaving only 2-3 upper leaves on each shoot. It is not necessary to shorten the remaining leaves on the cuttings. The cut itself is traditionally performed at an angle of 45 degrees.

Pre-treatment of rhododendron cuttings is reduced to soaking in growth stimulants. Without it, rooting will be slow and this whole process will be delayed. Usually for this shrub it is recommended to immerse the lower sections of the cuttings in a solution of any growth stimulator or rooting agent for 15-24 hours.

The soil for rooting cuttings must meet the requirements of the shrub itself.

Before rooting, cuttings should be kept at constant temperatures of 25 to 30 degrees Celsius and a stable average substrate humidity and very high air humidity should be maintained. To root rhododendron, it is better to create an environment in which the substrate temperature is several degrees higher than the air temperature. The rooting process is also accelerated by additional lighting, bringing the daylight hours to 14-16 hours.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering To do this, in the spring, dig a young shoot into a small hole about 16 cm deep and sprinkle it with soil, water it during the summer period, and when rooting occurs, replant it separately

Propagation by seeds Seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat to a depth of about a centimeter. Cover the container with glass and periodically ventilate and moisten the soil. The temperature required for seed germination is about 15 degrees.

After several pairs of leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate containers, and in open ground in the second year after sowing.

Planting a seedling begins with choosing a suitable place in the garden. It is important to choose the right planting location, since in bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not produce lush flowering. It is best to place a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely protected from them.

All rhododendrons need sun, but to varying degrees. Alpine dwarfs are especially sun-loving. Most large-flowered evergreens prefer to grow in partial shade. Some tolerate periodic shading, but rhododendrons cannot tolerate constant shade - then they do not bloom at all or bloom very weakly. Pines are considered an ideal neighbor for them - there is enough light under them, and the deep root system does not interfere with the flowering shrub.

Many years of experience show that these plants thrive near bodies of water where the air is humidified. Therefore, they are planted near ponds and lakes, streams and pools. If there is no water nearby, evergreen rhododendrons are sprayed once a week before flowering. But it is not advisable to pour water on flowering plants; it is better to water the bushes more often.

Cultivation of azaleas requires the creation of appropriate conditions and an important factor necessary for successful cultivation is, first of all, the substrate, which ensures the correct development of the shrub and the intensity of flowering. The plant is an acidophilic crop that requires an increased level of soil acidity, approximately 3.5 - 4.5 pH.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order: -dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm); - the lower part is drained with a sand and pebble layer (10-15 cm); - they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), and there should be about 2 times more peat; - lightly compact the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earthen ball of a seedling; - lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and fill it with soil mixture up to the very root collar, which as a result should be flush with the soil surface; -water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry; - perform mulching (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted pine needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, before planting, thoroughly soak the roots with water - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

The transplanted plant requires attention and careful care.

The standards for proper care of flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to follow the watering regime, carry out weeding and pruning in a timely manner, feed the plant with suitable minerals and ensure that pests do not infest.

In addition to regular, abundant watering, rhododendron requires foliar spraying, especially when planting in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to retain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

WATERING

Rhododendron requires atmospheric and soil moisture more than other plants, especially when buds form and during flowering. You need to water it regularly, and in dry weather you should also spray the plants with water. Proper watering also affects the formation of flower buds of next year's rhododendron.

You need to water the plant with soft water (settled, melted water, or rain), which can be softened with a handful of high-moor peat thrown in a day before watering. The frequency of adding liquid is determined by the condition of the leaves: for example, when they are dull and have lost their elasticity, then the plant is thirsty. When watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.

When watering, you should not flood the rhododendron roots, because they are very sensitive to excess moisture. You can find out about an excess of liquid by drooping and curled leaves.

It is best to water with rain or river water. Water from an artesian well or water supply contains a lot of calcium and magnesium salts - in this case, the soil will begin to alkalize and become saline, and rhododendrons will lose their decorative properties. (At first, nothing seems to happen, but after 2–4 years, hard water will do its job.)

Withered inflorescences, which reduce the decorativeness of the plant, need to be broken off or carefully trimmed, preserving the axillary buds on the upper leaves. This promotes abundant growth and flowering of rhododendrons next year. fertilizer

The plant should be fertilized from early spring until flowering ends in mid-summer.

Rhododendron prefers liquid fertilizers, so the manure is poured with water (ratio 1:15) and left to brew for a couple of days. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.

The most practical fertilization option is mineral and organic complex fertilizers in early spring. During flowering with cow dung.

If we talk about mineral fertilizers, then in order not to disturb the reaction of the environment (rhododendron grows in acidic soils), it is best to use superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, low concentration magnesium (1.2:1000), and an even weaker solution of potassium fertilizers.

Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.

Pruning is done in early spring, before the beginning of the growing season. Rhododendron requires minimal shaping and pruning, since its bushes themselves form the correct shape

Dry shoots are cut off and old branches, about 4 cm thick, are rejuvenated. Plants that have not overwintered well or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground, and the cut areas are treated with garden varnish (but only where The thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm).

Rhododendrons have a characteristic feature: one year they bloom and bear fruit quite generously, and the next year - much more modestly. To get rid of such frequency, it is necessary to break off the wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering. Then the rhododendron will use strength and nutrition to form flower buds for next year.

Wintering is the most important stage in the life of rhododendrons. The flowering of next year depends on it.

As a rule, deciduous species winter better in the middle zone than evergreen ones. Deciduous rhododendrons such as Daurian, Japanese, yellow, Canadian, Ledebur, Schlippenbach do not need to be covered - just in case, cover only the root collar area with dry leaves or peat.

The situation is more complicated with evergreen rhododendrons. Even winter-hardy ones (Caucasian, Katevbinsky) are better grown with shelter. In winter, they do not so much freeze as they dry out - they need protection from the wind and sun. Houses made from boards and covered with roofing felt are good for this purpose.

Less winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons will not be protected by such a shelter. They will need houses covered with porous insulating material (polypropylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.). Fragile insulation materials (foam plastic) are unsuitable. The shelter must have a frame, otherwise the fallen snow will collapse it and break the bush.

Frosts can damage the root system of rhododendrons, both evergreen and deciduous, so it needs to be insulated first. As soon as low temperatures are established, the roots are mulched with acidic peat or a dry leaf (preferably oak) with a layer of at least 10–15 cm.

You should not open the bushes too early in the spring. Don't let the March sun tempt you. In March, the roots are still dormant in the frozen ground and cannot absorb water. If you remove the cover at this time, the tender leaves of evergreen rhododendrons will fall under the scorching rays and “burn”, dry out and turn black. It is best to remove cover from rhododendron bushes when the soil has completely thawed and warmed up a little, and the weather on the selected day is cloudy.

DISEASES AND PESTS

Rhododendron is a very beautiful garden bush, often used for landscape design of a personal plot. However, everyone should know rhododendron diseases and their treatment.

Evergreens planted in the sun are more often attacked by diseases than those planted in partial shade. Proper agricultural technology increases the plant's resistance, but the threat still remains.

The main factors that negatively affect the plant are:

-increased soil moisture; - insufficient fertilizing of the soil with microelements; -seasonal freezing and sudden temperature changes; -direct exposure to sunlight, causing burns on the leaves; -attack by various insect pests.

PESTS

The rhododendron bug is one of the most common pests of rhododendron. The length of the insect is 3.6 mm. Leaves small discolored spots on the leaves. On the underside, the bug lays brownish eggs, which overwinter in the leaf tissues. A new generation appears in the summer.

Control measures: spraying with diazinon.

Grooved weevil, or corrugated mower - An adult beetle, 8-10 cm long, black (juveniles are yellowish-brown), with yellow spots on thick leathery ribbed wings and a short nose. Adults are inactive, but fly. They eat the edges of leaves, sometimes eat away buds, buds and flowers, and gnaw off the bark. The larvae are 1-1.4 cm long, without legs, and resemble chafer larvae in appearance. They eat the bark at the root collar and the roots themselves, leading to the death of the plant. The weevil lays eggs throughout the summer. The larvae live and overwinter in the soil, and pupae form in the spring. Beetles appear in May-June.

Control measures: plants are watered with 0.2-0.3% karbofos emulsion. At night, during the period of activity of adult individuals, they are pollinated with a 0.3% emulsion of karbofos. In June-August, spray with a 0.1-0.15% basadine solution to saturate the soil or mulch layer. Spraying with diazinon and furadan gives good results.

- a small flat pest measuring 2-4 mm. Males and females are very different from each other. Females are wingless and motionless. Males with one pair of wings, mobile. The pest produces 2-5 generations per year. It settles on leaf veins, young buds and young shoots of rhododendron, climbing into bark cracks and buds, sucking out cell sap. When massively multiplied, it causes leaf bending and plant death.

Control measures: spraying with karbofos 3-4 times a year

Spider mites are insects up to 0.5 mm long, red, yellow or reddish-green in color. Adults have 8 legs and are very mobile. Appears on the underside of the leaf, covering it with a thin web stretched in all directions. It feeds on the sap of leaves, which turn brownish-gray and fall off.

Control measures: spraying with agravertine, diazinon.

Black thrips is mainly a greenhouse pest, but has recently been found in open ground. Adults are small (1-1.5 mm), black. The larvae are yellow, smaller than adult insects. Pests feed on leaves, resulting in gray holes on the upper side of the leaf and black holes on the lower side. The leaves become silver-gray, turn yellow and fall off. In addition, thrips causes deformed flowers and severely stunted shoot growth.

Control measures: spraying with 0.2-0.3% nicotine solution or 0.2% karbofos emulsion.

Narrow-winged miner moth. Young caterpillars break through tunnel-like passages, eat away the parenchyma of the leaf, covering its surface with spots, twisting the edges of the leaf into a tube for pupation. Damaged leaves dry out, crumble and fall off.

Control measures: plants are sprayed or fumigated with sulfur.

Tillage slug - most often damages the leaves of young plants, gnawing through holes. It feeds mainly at night or on cloudy days. It is dangerous because it can destroy young plants in a short time.

Control measures: watering with 0.8% TMTD solution, collecting adult specimens.

The Asian garden beetle is a broad polyphagous plant. It seriously harms plants, eats irregularly shaped holes in young leaves, and often affects the entire leaf, leaving only its veins. The larvae damage the roots and stems of rhododendron.

Control measures: spraying with diazinon.

rhododendron diseases

The condition of plants can be affected by strong winds, drought, high salt content in the soil, poor aeration of the substrate, mechanical damage to the roots, lack or, conversely, excess of nutrients in the soil. In each individual case, it is necessary to identify the cause and eliminate it.

The result of a lack of nutrients in the soil is red spots along the veins, leaves curling into tubes, and branches drying out. With nitrogen starvation, rhododendron leaves become smaller, growth is smaller, flowering is weak; evergreen plants retain leaves on their shoots for only 2, and not 3-5 years as in nature or with normal care of plants in cultivation.

Control measures: fertilizing with ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate, or potassium nitrate.

Feeding the plant in late autumn often leads to its complete wilting. Microelements and nutrients provoke active growth and vital activity during the period when the plant needs to prepare for winter “hibernation”. As a result, an unhardened rhododendron may not tolerate winter frosts.

Mixed chlorosis. Yellow spots appear on the tips and edges of leaves. They can arise due to a lack of nutrients (nitrogen, potassium), which are relatively easily washed out of the soil during watering. Another reason may be stagnation of water at the roots. Typically, chlorosis is more pronounced in the second half of July or August, when the leaves reach normal size. Light yellow and intense yellow spots between the leaf veins occur when there is a lack of iron or magnesium in the soil, as well as when the root system is compacted, or when the soil reaction shifts towards alkaline. Sometimes this is caused by a lack of calcium (in rhododendron carolina).

Control measures: foliar feeding with iron sulfate (7.5 g/l), magnesium sulfate (6.5 g/l).

Mosaic The mosaic virus greatly disfigures the leaves of the bush. They become rough and calloused. The color of the leaf becomes yellow-green, but the calluses remain green. To combat the disease, trim the branches and leaves of the affected bush. If the plant is too damaged by the virus, remove it.

Cercospora blight is identified by the unusual angular shape of dark brown spots with a red edge. In conditions of high humidity, the leaf plate is covered with a coating of gray spores. The lower tiers of rhododendron leaves are more susceptible to damage.

Various spots Pestalocia spot affects foliage and stems. Brownish spots of irregular shape appear on them. They are framed by a thin brown border. The spots on the leaves are smaller than those on the stems. Gray pads with spores appear on top of the spots. The disease “changes” the color of the stems to brown and covers the foliage with spots, so it is treated by pruning the affected parts, followed by treating the bush with Bordeaux solution or Camulus.

Septoria blotch affects rhododendron foliage. It is covered with round red spots. After a certain period of time, black dotted fruits of the fungus appear on the spots. After this, the foliage turns yellow and dries out. The disease is characterized by the formation of spots on the surface of black fruiting bodies of the fungus, so its treatment is carried out by cutting off the affected areas and treating the bush with Bordeaux solution or the drug Camulus. Anthracnose spotting is identified by brown spots in the upper part of the leaf, followed by its drying out. Round dark bodies with spores form on the spots. Following the leaves, the stems become diseased. Treatment of anthractose spot is based on cutting off the lesions and spraying with Bordeaux mixture.

Spraying plants with copper preparations at high humidity can cause burns to leaves and shoots!

Phyllostictosis spotting is diagnosed by the condition of the leaves. A characteristic symptom is the appearance of large round spots with a red border. Black sporangia begin to roll out of them. Then the foliage dies. The edge of the spot may also be brown, depending on the type of pathogen. Over time, the lesion lightens, cracks and crumbles. In this case, it is necessary to cut off the affected parts and treat the bush with Bordeaux mixture or Camulus.

Rhododendron suffers from rust in the autumn. Dust-like swellings of red, yellow or brown color appear on the back side of the foliage. The plant begins to shed its leaves too early. In spring, dark red spore pads can be seen on the leaves. The rhododendron disease in the photo appears only on the foliage, so the first stage of its treatment is collecting and burning the leaves. Next, they are treated with preparations that contain copper. In the initial stages of the disease, the bush is sprayed with Bordeaux solution.

Gray rot appears on the foliage, stems, buds and petals of the plant in the form of vague brown spots without a border. The surface coating gradually dries and begins to crack. With high humidity, parts of the bush affected by necrosis are covered with a fluffy, smoky-gray spore coating. After some time, the drying mycelium is filled with brown round sclerotia.

Rot can only be dealt with by cutting off the affected areas of the rhododendron. To carry out preventive treatment, spray the plant with a 0.2% solution of the drug “Fundazol”, and also water the root zone with it.

Rot of shoots and young seedlings for rhododendron begins with withering and ends with death. White fungal spores or brown mold form on its leaves, and the surface is covered with threads resembling a cobweb.

Sprinkle the seedlings that have begun to die with crushed charcoal or Fundazol powder. In addition, for the purpose of prevention, you can treat with a 0.2% solution of the drug Fundazol

Bud rot. The buds turn brown and die, after which the mycelium grows into the branches. The development of the disease can be limited by removing dark buds and dry shoots. While the plant is going through the growing season, spray it every two weeks with preparations that contain copper.

The death of shoots threatens shrubs growing in the shade. The buds at the top of the bush will not bloom. Instead, their color will turn brown and the process of dying off will begin. Following them, the leaves will begin to curl, acquire a brown color and dry out. If the damage is severe, the plant will die. The disease can also begin with the drilling of leaves on some shoots. Then they will begin to dry, after which the entire shoot will die.

You can cope with the death of shoots by burning the affected foliage and shoots. As soon as the rhododendron fades, you should begin treating it regularly (every two weeks) with copper-based preparations.

Root rot affects the roots and stems at the base. But first the foliage withers and dries without any reason. Then the buds become brown and die. Immediately before the death of the rhododendron, the root system becomes brown and rotten.

To cope with the disease, it is necessary to burn the affected areas of the plant or the entire diseased bush. It is possible to protect rhododendron from root rot. Maintain soil acidity at the level required specifically for your variety and follow the watering rules.

Dry white rot wraps around the root collar of the plant and looks like a gray-white ring. The damage is caused by a well-known mushroom - honey fungus, it is its mycelium that germinates in weakened rhododendrons. As a result, the bush dies.

Strongly growing rhododendrons do not suffer from this disease. The affected plant must be dug up and burned, and the bushes near it must be replanted.

Wax disease Several types of fungi can provoke wax disease, which:

-Causes slight deformation with thickening of leaves. They are covered with large red or red-brown spots of round or elongated shape. A waxy coating of spores appears in the area of ​​necrosis. Subsequently, the stains dry out and crack. -Form white cushion-shaped growths on the young foliage of an evergreen shrub. -The leaves are covered with round spots. On their back side one can observe the development of white spores. -Change foliage color to yellow-brown. -A powdery coating appears on the back of the leaf, after which the process of dying begins. -Leaves and shoots are affected. -Huge pale green leaves of abnormal thickness begin to grow on the rhododendron. They are covered with a white coating. The leaf begins to wrinkle, mold and dry out.

A plant can be cured of wax disease by pruning the affected areas, as well as treating it with Bordeaux mixture or Cumulus. It is better to carry out processing in the spring.

Each type of rhododendron is prone to one disease or another. Many diseases have a number of similar symptoms and only a couple of differences. Proper treatment carried out in a timely manner can preserve the affected bush and protect healthy rhododendrons from infection. To extend the life of the bush, pay attention to any changes!

Your FloraNursery

Other azalea problems

A weakened state due to illness or improper care can lead to a number of other problems.

Yellowing of the crown

An excess of nutrients is just as harmful as a deficiency. The main cause of crown yellowing is excessive calcium. Because of this, magnesium starvation develops, similar to chlorosis (lack of iron). Use soft acidified water for irrigation, adding citric, ascorbic or oxalic acid.

Shedding of buds

The fall of azalea buds, in most cases, is caused by temperature changes or changes in climatic conditions. The reasons may be insufficiently moistened soil, replanting during the flowering period, or a change in light intensity. Hard water for watering the plant also has a negative effect on flowering.

How to make it bloom?

Why doesn't indoor azalea bloom at home?

Azalea is capricious, it is difficult to make it bloom (it is advisable to know when it should bloom in time).

What to do if the azalea does not bloom?

In order for the azalea to bloom, you need to pinch the tops of the young shoots. Most often in June, azalea flowering ends; in summer, you should carefully monitor watering and fertilize it 3-4 times. stimulating flowering (starting from June and including September).

During the flowering period, it should be sprayed with cool water and placed in a tray with wet expanded clay.

Azalea is a capricious plant, but its beauty will make up for the effort and time. spent on care. Beautiful flowers will be a well-deserved reward for the comfortable conditions created for the azalea.

Prevention of azalea diseases

Often the causes of azalea disease are a complex of violations in care. It is important to observe the temperature regime, timely watering, spraying, and also feed the azalea with organic fertilizers. For prevention, you can treat with the fungicide Copper Chloride. Fundazol is also used because it is not phytotoxic.

Hello, readers of my blog. Just imagine, my beloved Azalea, which for a long time delighted me with its lush flowers, got sick. It is my fault. I had to leave for a while, and the family took care of the flowers and, apparently, incorrectly. I scoured the Internet and realized that I’m not the only one with this problem with the flower, which means there is a need to find out what Azalea diseases are, their treatment with photos will be posted on the pages of my resource.

Fungal diseases

Infections caused by fungi include:

1. Fusarium. At the same time, the leaves of the plant and the stem turn yellow and wither, and a pink coating can be found on the root collar. In this case, insecticide treatment is indispensable and it is best to use a 0.2% solution of foundationazole.
2. Verticellosis. This disease can be diagnosed by darkening at the base. In this case, the plant dies very quickly, and the risk of infecting other flowers increases.
3. Alternaria blight. It is characterized by brown spots of different shapes and parameters. How to save Azalea in this case? Treat with Bordeaux mixture.
4. Septoria. You will recognize this disease by reddish-yellow spots with black inclusions inside. Insufficient lighting, untimely pruning, excessive air and soil humidity - all these factors can lead to the occurrence of this disease, as well as late fertilizing with nitrogen. What to do in this case? Apply fungicide.
5. Late blight. This is root rot, which spreads from the roots to the leaves and buds. The first ones change color, curl and dry out, and the buds die off. To combat, increase the breathability of the soil and use fitoverm or Bordeaux mixture.
6. Phyllosticosis. This disease causes dark brown or ash-gray spots with a brown rim to appear on the leaves, from which sporangial balls fall out. You can cope with the disease using a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, alternating it with a 0.15% solution of Topsin-M.
7. Cercospora blight. In this case, dark brown spots with a red rim appear on the underside of the leaf, and a gray coating appears on top. Treatment consists of alternating foundationazole and dithane solution.

Frequently asked questions when growing azaleas

Fans of indoor floriculture, especially beginners, are interested in questions about how to water an azalea at home, what temperature conditions the capricious beauty needs. There are a lot of questions, since growing this plant is not easy. Especially when it comes to diseases and pests.

Azalea sheds leaves: what to do?

Improper care, violation of maintenance conditions, diseases, harmful insects - all this can cause an indoor flower to begin to shed its leaves. What should be done in this case? Provide normal conditions for plant development.

1. Optimum air temperature +15 +18 °C. During budding, it should be reduced by 2-3 degrees.
2. High level of illumination. However, azalea does not like direct sun. Hot rays can cause burns on the leaves.
3. High indoor humidity (up to 80%). When the air is dry, the plant slows down and begins to shed its leaves.

A pot that is too tight can also cause the problem. The roots of azaleas grow horizontally, so it is necessary to select a wide container for it. Transplantation should be carried out using the transshipment method. For better root survival, the plant is watered with Zircon solution. Loosening the soil around the azalea should be done with caution.

Calcareous soil has an extremely depressing effect on indoor plants. Experienced gardeners recommend periodically acidifying the soil and not using calcium fertilizers. If an azalea drops its leaves, you should check the flower for pests and diseases. Timely identification of the problem will help save your green pet from death.

Some varieties may shed their leaves in winter after flowering. Thus, the plant enters a dormant period and prepares for the next growing season. At this time, it is necessary to reduce watering and move the pot to a cool, dark place.

Azalea has dried up: how to save it?

What to do if the plant does dry out? Is it possible to revive him? It is possible if the roots remain alive. You can check this in the following way: remove the plant from the pot, shake off the soil, wash and inspect the roots. Living roots are resilient and flexible. They should be left, and all the rest should be removed by sprinkling the cut areas with crushed activated carbon.

To resuscitate the root system, the plant can be immersed for a couple of hours in a “Kornevin” solution prepared according to the instructions. Next, plant in special soil, which can be purchased at a flower shop. Dry branches should be cut off, leaving shoots of 10-15 cm. The pot with azalea is taken to a room with a temperature of +10 +12°C.

Every day, the flower must be shed with water with the addition of the preparation “Zircon” and a few drops of boric acid. The liquid should not stagnate, so it is better to place the pot on a tray with expanded clay. Watering must be carried out daily until the first leaves appear.

Azalea leaves turn black and fall off: what to do?

Black spots on the plant appear both due to improper care and when damaged by pests and diseases. It is important to promptly identify the cause and eliminate it. If the blackening of the leaves occurs as a result of the negative impact of parasitic insects, you should wash the leaves and treat the azalea with an insecticide.

In case of disease, it is necessary to remove the damaged parts of the plant and spray with a fungicide. It is recommended to use biological agents indoors. For the purpose of resuscitation, the azalea is transplanted into a new pot with a complete replacement of the soil.

It is extremely important to create optimal conditions for the normal growth and development of indoor flowers. In this case, a healthy plant with strong immunity will not be afraid of diseases and pests.

Diseases arising from improper maintenance

If you, like me, are wondering why Azalea's leaves dry out and fall off, then the whole problem may be insufficient watering and high air temperature in the room. This flower is quite whimsical and immediately reacts to changes in conditions. Water the plant when the soil dries slightly from above, and in winter and summer, when the room is hot, spray it daily or even twice a day.

Improper care can cause diseases such as:

1. Necrosis. With this disease, the leaves turn brown and the main vein dies. The reason is a sharp drop in temperature. To get sick, a flower only needs to be in a cold draft.
2. Mixed chlorosis. The main symptom is yellow spots along the edges of the leaves. Perhaps you haven’t fed your Azalea for a long time, or you may have watered it too often and too much.

Azalea why leaves fall

When growing an azalea, you may encounter that growth stops, buds are in no hurry to appear, but the main problem is the falling of leaves. Let's try to figure out why azalea sheds its leaves.

The reasons may be the following:

• improper care;
• stress;
• soil is too wet;
• transplantation during flowering;
• parasites.

So, the first reason is improper care, which contributed to the drying out of the leaves. To save the situation, you need to cut off the leaves that have dried out and create favorable conditions for the plant to grow. The plant loves coolness, clean water, and sufficient sunlight. When the heating is turned on in the house, it is better to place the azalea away from the radiators. If the air in the room is too dry and the temperature is high, the azalea's leaves begin to fade ahead of time. Leaves turn yellow and fall off if the room humidity is low. To solve the problem, you need to place the flower on a tray with wet peat.

Diseases caused by pests

If you can't figure out why your Azalea is dropping its leaves, try inspecting them for the presence of insects, especially if it is growing in open ground or adjacent to flowers brought into the house from the garden on a windowsill. This flower can be affected by:

1. Spider mite. You can easily understand this by the thin web covering the bottom of the leaf. Deprived of juice, they acquire a brownish-gray color and fall off. Treat the plant with agravertine or actellic. At first, washing with soapy water may help.
2. Asian garden beetle. It makes holes in young leaves, and in severe cases, leaves only veins. Destroyed by diazinon.
3. Furrow weevil. This pest attacks the roots, which leads to wilting and death of the plant. Use karbafos and bazodin to combat it.
4. Azalea moth. This parasite curls its leaves into a tube as it prepares to pupate. As a result, they dry out and fall off, and sulfur can help in this matter.
5. Greenhouse thrips. Black thrips used to be common only in greenhouses, but today they have begun to be found in open ground. The insect makes holes in the leaves, and they are gray on the back side and black on the bottom. Subsequently, they turn yellow and fall off, disfiguring the flower.
6. Rhododendron bug. It is one of the main pests of Azalea. After its detrimental effect, discolored spots remain on the leaves, and the insect lays eggs on the reverse side. Destroyed by diazine.

In principle, any pests can be controlled only with the help of fungicides. If in doubt, consult with the seller and he will advise you on the most suitable drug, and then you can share your experience with me and the readers.

Remember that Azalea does not tolerate direct sunlight; it feels good at temperatures of +18–22 ᵒC in summer and +12–16 ᵒC in winter. It needs to be watered with well-settled tap water or rainwater to ensure peace for the winter.

After flowering, be sure to thin out the crown, remove faded buds, and trim elongated and weak shoots. Feed the plant in a timely manner and replant it in new soil. Only under such conditions will it delight you with green foliage and lush color. I hope that my Azalea will come to life and I will be able to revive it with the help of your advice. I'm waiting for responses. Good luck!

Indoor azalea: care and diseases

Indoor azalea is a perennial plant belonging to the heather family and the genus Rhododendron.
The ancestor of cultivated indoor varieties of azaleas is Indian Rhododendron (Rhododendron indicum) - a natural species. Description: the most common indoor azalea is found in 2 types - Indian and Japanese, but the most popular is Indian (rhododendron simsii). It is an evergreen small shrub up to 50 cm tall. Almost always, young shoots are covered with bright red or chestnut-brown, flat and bristly hairs. Small, short-petioled up to 3.5 cm long leaves are dark green above and light green below, covered with reddish hairs. The flowers, from 3 to 5 cm in diameter, are broadly funnel-shaped, collected in inflorescences and can be single or double. They open at the same time. The color of indoor azalea ranges from white to bright red. Quite often the flower is two-colored: white with a pink center, framed along the edge and even speckled. Indoor azalea is very popular due to its beauty and the fact that it blooms in winter, when most houseplants are dormant.