Pruning bougainvillea in spring, autumn or after flowering at home

Garlands of elegantly blooming bougainvillea vines are picturesque and incredibly colorful. Perhaps that is why, at the very first acquaintance with the overseas beauty, Russians, not spoiled by the extreme riot of colors, instantly associate with the breathtakingly spectacular holiday - the Brazilian carnival. That's right! Your associative thinking did not fail, since the birthplace of the festive bougainvillea is the distant and mysterious South American country of Brazil. Many of our flower growers have successfully mastered the secrets of growing exotic plants. However, they still look warily towards the temptingly spectacular bougainvillea plant, the cultivation of which would be another step for them on the path to realizing their dreams. And this dream is a man-made creation in your home of unearthly beauty and a festive atmosphere.

The Europeans named the ornamental flowering plant, which was striking in its novelty, after the French traveler Comte de Bougainville. In common parlance, the heroine of our story is called a “paper flower” due to the similarity of the bracts to crumpled colored paper.

The tropical flower surprisingly quickly took root in the European climate. Bougainvillea has won one of the most honorable places in the flower beds and gardens of hospitable Europe. Nowadays, the exotic beauty of bougainvillea is more often found outdoors, while breeders have taken the trouble to grow hybrids for indoor use.

Our article will serve as a road map for growing bougainvillea at home for Russian daredevils who have decided to acquire a tropical miracle at home. A short guide will guide beginners and experienced gardeners in a sea of ​​questions about how to care for bougainvillea.

Biological description

Before we begin to understand the intricacies and nuances of the courtship procedure, let’s take a closer look at the plant and its progenitor.

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea) is a member of the Nyctaginaceae or Nocturnal family. Contains 15 species, of which only a few are adapted for indoor conditions, most of them are Brazilian species. In its natural habitat, it is an evergreen climbing shrub or tree, the climbing branches of which can reach 5 meters in length.

The woody, thorny stems of the plant are equipped with short, sparse thorns for traction with support. Indoor hybrids, if you are too lazy to prune regularly, can imperceptibly transform into impenetrable thickets on your window.

The plant owes its popularity to its long flowering period: from spring to late autumn. Bougainvillea, which has safely acclimatized in Russian conditions, will delight the eye with its blooming outfit for 9 months in a row! Surprisingly, the compact flowers are completely modest and invisible against the backdrop of defiantly bright bracts, which have raised the decorative value of the plant among members of the family.

The bracts of various shapes and colors reach 6 cm in diameter. Together, they form a dense dome that overshadows the leaves and branches of the tree in the literal and figurative sense of the word. Breeders work tirelessly to create new hybrid varieties with the most incredible colors and shades. Classics of the genre - pink, red and purple bracts. Unlike faded flowers that quickly fade, bracts remain fresh and attractive for a very long time.

The narrow, smooth leaves of the plant are not of particular value. They are hidden from prying eyes for most of the year behind the undeniably dominant flowers.

One of the latest achievements of breeders was a variety with bracts of two colors. The scientists' real highlight was bougainvillea, a chameleon that changes color during the flowering season.

Signs and superstitions

There are many interesting stories, signs and superstitions associated with the evergreen and ever-blooming beauty Bougainvillea or the “miracle flower”, as this amazing plant is often called in Europe. No wonder. Just think about the fact that its lush, colorful clusters of inflorescences that decorate the crown all year round are actually not flowers, but leaves.

According to the ancient Indian legend, Ataahua, as the indigenous people of South America called Bougainvillea, was once a beautiful girl. The evil witch envied her beauty and turned her into a vine with inconspicuous small flowers. But the gods took pity on the unfortunate woman and allowed her to “bloom” with leaves, but continuously.

Bougainvillea, or as the plant is popularly called, Paper Flower, is quite rarely grown in apartments. It is more of a shrubby plant found in the southern regions. But if you have bougainvillea in your home flower garden, consider yourself very lucky. A paper flower, according to signs, has the highest ability to attract money.

Signs for the home

There are a huge number of signs and superstitions associated with Bougainvillea. For example, many believe that this plant helps a person to be in the right place at the right time and not miss his chance. The main thing is to ask the flower for this and take good care of it.

The bright parts of Bougainvillea - the bracts or covering leaves, as they are also called - are not flowers. Its real flowers are inconspicuous, small and inconspicuous, lost in the surrounding of larger and more picturesque bracts.

Bougainvillea is believed to bring wealth and profit to the home. It is not for nothing that Asians use this flower in the interior design of bank premises. They believe that he can enhance cash flows, secure investments and reduce risks in financial transactions.

But we must remember that in money matters, the South American beauty helps only those who are not lazy, improve themselves, and raise their qualifications. And in order to enhance its positive meaning and get rid of competitors, you can make a kind of talisman in the form of a sword from metal coins and put it in a pot or tub next to the plant.

The magical properties of Bougainvillea also work to protect the house and its inhabitants. Therefore, in southern countries, where this evergreen shrub grows freely in open ground, Bougainvillea hedges and house walls densely entwined with this beautiful vine are so popular.

Basic rules for success

The well-known secrets of longevity, long flowering and health of the beautiful indoor bougainvillea when caring for it at home are the correct ones:

• temperature - warm in summer, cool in winter;
• lighting is the brightest possible;
• watering - plentiful in the spring-summer season, minimal in winter (the lump of earth should be almost dry);
• air humidity - in a heated room, the foliage cover must be sprayed;
• transplantation - if necessary, in early spring;
• propagation by stem cuttings, layering and seeds.

Care

Under normal indoor conditions, growing bougainvillea is difficult without specific knowledge and basic skills in floriculture. A “paper flower” in conditions unusual for its nature needs due attention to itself, monitoring the dynamics of development and simply a positive attitude.

Let us reveal an important secret to beginners in floriculture. It consists in the fact that you should not disturb the plant by moving it to a new place. The logical conclusion is that you should carefully approach the issue of choosing a place for the permanent location of bougainvillea even at the time of purchase. No matter how ideal the care, the flower is at risk of simply withering when moved. Take advantage of the opportunity to place the pot on a window facing south. Here the tropical plant will enjoy the abundance of light and warmth, almost like in its homeland. If this is not possible, a west window would be a good option. Air circulation will be useful, but without cold drafts. It is also undesirable to disturb the shoots, directing them at your own discretion. It will be much safer to form a crown using pruning.

Knowing some key points, you can begin a fascinating walk through the pages of our article, dwelling in detail on each of the mentioned rules for caring for bougainvillea.

Popular species and varieties for home growing

Bougainvillea is native to the tropical forests of Brazil. Its branches in the wild grow up to 5 m in length and gradually become lignified. Smooth, oval-shaped leaves, slightly pointed at the ends, are located along the entire stem. In nature, there are 14-18 species of bougainvillea.

Only a few species are suitable for cultivation indoors:

• Naked, smooth (glabra) - has a smooth, almost thornless, stem. The leaf blades are smooth and bright green. Small yellow flowers are surrounded by large crimson bracts. The plant blooms profusely in April-June. Many new hybrid varieties have been developed based on this species.
• Wonderful (spectabilis) is a fast-growing vine with a powerful stem. The leaves are dense, pubescent, ovoid in shape. The flowers are collected in panicles, placed 2-3 pieces on bracts of a bright red, purple, greenish-pink hue. At home, this bougainvillea grows on rocky soils and can reach a length of 10-15 m.
• Peruvian (peruviana) - has a green stem without side shoots. The leaves are narrow, with a smooth surface. Small spines are hidden at their base. The bracts are slightly wrinkled, terry, from bright pink to purple. They contain yellowish flowers. The species is characterized by long and lush flowering.

Popular varieties of bougainvillea:

• Australian Gold;
• Black India Red;
• Brilliant;
• California Gold;
• laterita;
• Magic;
• Rubiana.

Temperature

The heat-loving “Paper Flower” is surrounded by comfort in summer if the temperature varies between 23 - 30°C. This amount of heat best stimulates flowering. In hot times, the plant will appreciate a long stay in the fresh air or at least sufficient ventilation.

In a heated residential room, bougainvillea will not be able to get a full rest even once a year, since the start for it to go into rest is the descent of the column on the thermometer scale below 16°C. It is difficult to achieve this value in an apartment, especially in one where children live. That is why the bush continues to bloom on the windowsill all year round, which can weaken it. Concerned about replenishing the strength of their pet, flower growers tend to place bougainvillea for winter rest in an unheated loggia or on the balcony. Here, a cool winter at a temperature of 12 to 16 degrees will create conditions for the plant to lay a large number of flower buds. This measure will lead to effective lush flowering by the spring season. However, even here you need to be on alert so as not to let the temperature drop below the critical temperature. Already 7°C can be disastrous for the Nyctaginaceae family!

It is important to eliminate the possibility of sudden temperature fluctuations so as not to jeopardize the health of your homegrown beauty. If the balance of heat optimal for flowering in summer has not been established, the bracts will not be able to acquire the inherent brightness of color and delight their admirers.

Rest period

In winter, bougainvillea needs special care. The plant does not feel well without the sun, so all processes slow down. The tropical beauty becomes sleeping. She needs to be provided with a lighted but cool place, with a temperature of +10–12 degrees or lower, up to +5.

1. In warm regions, bougainvillea can easily overwinter on a glazed balcony.
2. In the northern regions it is more difficult to create optimal conditions.

You can place it almost close to the cold window glass and separate it from the rest of the room with a screen to keep it cool. When kept cold, a moderate level of air humidity is sufficient. It is necessary to cancel water procedures. Watering is limited to a minimum, fertilizing is stopped.

In southern latitudes, bougainvillea is left to spend the winter on a protected veranda or loggia, at temperatures of +5 degrees and above.

In order for the plant to comfortably survive the winter, it is necessary to insulate the roots. Wrap foam rubber, batting or other insulation under the flower pot and lay polystyrene foam underneath, mulch the top of the soil with peat or sawdust. But you can and should spray bougainvillea foliage if the temperature is about +18–20 and above. Otherwise, dry air and heat will lead to leaf fall. During a warm winter, bougainvillea may bloom, but this is not good for the health of the plant. It will not have time to rest and accumulate strength to flourish in the summer.

Even during dormancy, bougainvillea needs a lot of light, even in excess, especially for variegated varieties. So add artificial lighting. Regular incandescent lamps are not suitable. Install special phytolamps, gas-discharge or fluorescent lamps. LED lamps are most efficient.

As spring approaches, dormant bougainvillea needs to be awakened: the temperature is gradually increased, and the soil is moistened more.

In winter, the plant sheds its leaves. During this period, the air temperature should be lowered. Reduce watering and spraying.

Lighting

The ability to choose the right place with optimal natural light, and, if necessary, adjust the value with artificial light is a task equivalent to balancing the temperature regime for indoor plants. It happens that those who “tamed a pet”, being irresponsible about the issue of light, simply ruined the plant, without waiting for the dream of the charm of a flowering tree to come true.

For the intensive development of bougainvillea, it is extremely important to provide bright light. It is one of the few plant species whose life directly depends on the amount of sunlight. For this purpose, choose the sunniest place for the flower, ideally a south-facing window sill. You should know that during daylight hours, bougainvillea should receive plenty of sunbathing for at least 5 hours. You should not be afraid of the scorching rays of the midday sun and getting burns. The South American ultraviolet lover will fully grow, develop and amaze the imagination of mankind with the brightness of the colors of the bracts only when she is given plenty of light. Poor lighting will inevitably lead to stretched stems, faded green foliage and a cessation of flowering.

However, there are nuances in the topic of bougainvillea lighting, depending on the time of year and periods of flower activity. It will need the maximum amount of light from the very first month of spring until October, that is, for the flowering period. During its well-deserved rest, during the winter dormancy period, the plant will feel comfortable in a place shaded from sunlight.

Flowering period

Bougainvillea requires the following conditions for lush and long flowering:

• coolness (+10–12, can be as low as +5) during the winter dormancy period;
• plenty of light (4-5 hours of direct sun required);
• a cramped pot;
• food containing phosphorus and potassium.

You can encourage bougainvillea to bloom by giving it a drought. If the plant does not form buds, try stopping fertilizing and severely limiting watering. The flower will begin to form buds from shock, after which water and fertilize the bougainvillea again so that it does not weaken.

Sometimes flowers appeared at the end of spring, withered, but there were no new ones. In this case, you need to cut off the faded branches, then the second wave of flowering will begin.

Watering

The watering regime for bougainvillea is directly related to periods of activity. In spring and summer, during the period of intensive growth, the plant is watered abundantly. To avoid mistakes, test the soil mixture: it should be slightly moistened all the time, but not soggy. You should start watering immediately after the top layer of the earthen ball has dried at least halfway. By average, watering is carried out 1-2 times a week.

Water is poured into the pot until it seeps through the holes in the bottom.

It is important to remember the natural living conditions of the flower. In its natural environment, it grows on rocky areas of soil, where stagnation of moisture is simply impossible. Therefore, a moisture-loving home bush should not experience waterlogging of the substrate. You need to help him in this matter by draining excess moisture from the pan.

When autumn comes, the volume and frequency of watering is reduced, which helps prepare the bush for a period of rest and recuperation. From November until spring, bougainvillea is watered rarely and sparingly. At the same time, it is important to prevent the earthen ball in the pot from drying out completely. Average watering frequency at this time of year: once every 2-3 weeks. If the room is warm, then you need to water it a little more often. It happens that in winter the bush sheds its leaves completely. This will be your cue to stop watering until the dormant season is over. For irrigation use settled tap water.

Why doesn't bougainvillea bloom?

If bougainvillea does not form inflorescences when grown indoors, this indicates errors in care or maintenance conditions:

1. In winter, the flower was not maintained correctly, which is why it did not have a full dormant period.
2. Throughout the year, the plant did not have enough sunlight.
3. An excessively large container was chosen for planting, and the root system of the plant had not yet had time to fill it completely.
4. In the summer, in damp and cool weather, the bush lacked warmth and light.
5. Too much nitrogen was added to the soil mixture.

If you are sure that you have not made such mistakes in care, but the flowers still do not appear, then you can try to make bougainvillea bloom. To do this, stop feeding and sharply reduce the frequency of spraying and watering. It is necessary to care for the plant in this way until flower buds form on the young shoots. After this, the bush is again systematically fed (but do not overdo it!) and watered. Remember that if you properly care for the bush and give it everything it needs, it will certainly delight you with lush flowering.

Air humidity

Like any subtropical crop, bougainvillea prefers high air humidity, even when in a Moscow apartment. Regular spraying of the plant with soft water that has stood for at least 2 hours will help create conditions close to tropical ones. Therefore, take the trouble to arm yourself with a spray gun.

During flowering, the air is humidified selectively in the area of ​​the bush, preventing droplets from falling on the surface of the bracts. During the dormant period, feel free to irrigate the inner and outer surfaces of the leaves for the benefit of the entire plant.

To create optimal air humidity, you can use other well-known methods, for example, an electric humidifier. It will be effective to place a pot with a flower on a tray with moistened pebbles or expanded clay. You can place a vessel under the bush, for example, a glass brazier filled with water. Remember that the larger the water surface area, the higher the humidity level can be achieved.

All efforts to ensure comfort will benefit your pet and will turn out to be a treat for the eyes.

Possible problems

When caring for bougainvillea, problems sometimes arise in the form of:

1. Stunted growth. The flower may stop growing if the ground has become rocky or has poor drainage. In such a situation, the plant should be replanted.
2. The leaves began to dry out and fall off, and only bracts remained on the branches. This means that the plant is very hot and dry. The best option is to increase the number of waterings. And do not forget about regularly spraying the plant with water.
3. The new leaves on the bush are small. This is the first sign of malnutrition. Urgent feeding is needed.
4. The leaves began to turn very yellow. In this case, you need to pay attention to the water level in the pot. Because this is the first sign of fluid stagnation.
5. Small white spots on the leaves indicate the appearance of mold. It is enough to expose the plant to fresh air and treat the leaves with warm water.

Transfer

With the arrival of spring, the dormant stage comes to an end and the bush begins active growth. The green mass, roots and shoots grow intensively. At this very moment in early spring, it is recommended to replant bougainvillea.

Young “pets” grow rapidly. In close to ideal greenhouse conditions, the height of the bush increases to 3 meters in one year. It is noteworthy that in a spacious container your flower will grow long stems and branches. A cramped pot will provoke extremely lush flowering, while the height of the bush will change only slightly. At a young age, the plant is replanted annually. Thus, the proper level of nutritional value of the soil mixture is achieved.

An adult bougainvillea can hardly tolerate the worries associated with the transplantation procedure. It can get sick, lose its leaves and stop flowering altogether. Therefore, mature plants are replanted every 3-4 years. In this case, they prefer the method of transferring it into a container with a large diameter and try to avoid injury to the root system. It is important to check whether the root collar is buried in order to correct the situation in time.

The free gap that appears between the earthen lump and the walls of the pot is filled with new soil and only slightly pressed down, without compacting, but also without leaving voids. The bush is watered and placed for several days of rest in a shaded corner. After the roots have settled into their new home, the flower is returned to its usual place.

The weighty lashes of an adult plant along with flowers are quite heavy and need support. Bamboo or other strong supports are installed in the pot. To properly form a young bush, you will also need to install a bracket in the pot or stick a special ladder into the substrate.

Compliance with the rules for using the following three attributes of transplantation will allow you to carry out the process safely, and the flower will easily survive stress and quickly adapt.

1. Pot. It is better to choose a deep pot that allows roots to develop. Mistakenly, some beginners prefer choosing an overly large flowerpot. According to the rules, the diameter of each subsequent container should exceed the previous one by the thickness of two fingers, about 3 cm. Too large a volume provokes stagnation of moisture and rotting of the roots, which is difficult to combat. When replanting into the previous container, wash it thoroughly and disinfect it. Shorten the roots enough to make them more comfortable.
2. Drainage. Under natural conditions, bougainvillea grows on rocky soils. At the bottom of the pot, it will definitely need a generous layer of drainage: expanded clay, crushed stone or broken red brick.
3. Priming. For a luxurious Brazilian beauty, prefer a store-bought special substrate. If this is not possible, you can make your own mixture of sand, compost, turf and leaf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2:2.

Caring for bougainvillea at home

Bougainvillea is native to Brazil. There, its growth and flowering does not stop for a single day, because it does not have a rest period. Such a heat-loving plant can withstand a drop in air temperature of up to 5 degrees, but if it is colder, it may die. In some subtropical regions of the Caucasus, the crop is grown in open soil year-round. But if there is a threat of the air temperature dropping to critical values, then it must be covered so that it does not suffer from the cold.

In the middle latitudes of Russia, such a plant is cultivated exclusively in closed ground. Greenhouses, conservatories and residential buildings are ideal for its cultivation. The main thing to remember is that bougainvillea needs a lot of bright light and space. When grown indoors, as a rule, the crop lacked either light or space, and it began to adapt to new growth conditions. As a result, its flowering was no longer year-round, and it also had a clearly defined dormant period. If you care for the plant correctly and provide it with growing conditions as close as possible to natural ones, then it can bloom several times during the year.

Illumination

To grow bougainvillea, you should choose the sunniest place. A south-facing window sill is ideal for this; in extreme cases, it can be placed on a west-facing window. Remember that during the day the flower should be illuminated by direct rays of the sun for at least 5 hours. By the way, it is not afraid of the scorching rays of the midday sun. Only if it has enough light will its growth and development be within normal limits, and during the flowering period its perianths will have a bright color. If the lighting is too poor, the stems will become elongated, the leaf blades will fade, and the bougainvillea will not bloom.

Temperature

The room where the flower is located must be systematically ventilated, but be sure to protect the bush from drafts. Do not expose it to air currents. In the summer, when it is warm outside, if possible, it can be moved to fresh air (to the veranda, garden or open balcony). In this case, a place is chosen for it that has reliable protection from precipitation and gusts of wind. In winter, the plant can be moved to a closed loggia, which must be insulated and well lit. Please note that the loggia should not be colder than 10 degrees.

The culture reacts negatively to frequent changes from one place to another, especially during flowering. Because of this, the plant can suffer greatly, especially if after the rearrangement the conditions for growth have sharply changed for the worse. Because of this, both flowers and foliage can fly off the bush. In this case, it is recommended to return the bush to its usual environment with suitable temperature and lighting; after a little time, new foliage will begin to grow.

In spring and summer, during the period of intensive plant growth, the temperature in the room should be from 22 to 25 degrees. During the dormant period in winter, it is recommended to move the bush to a cooler place (from 12 to 16 degrees). A cool winter will allow the plant to lay a large number of flower buds, and with the onset of the spring months the bush will certainly delight you with lush flowering. If bougainvillea is kept warm in winter, it should be provided with additional lighting, with the required daylight hours being about 12 hours. To do this, install a fluorescent lamp or phytolamp near the plant. In this case, the bush will not begin a dormant period, and a small number of flowers will bloom on it. However, during a warm winter and in the summer, the bush will bloom very weakly.

Air humidity

The crop needs high air humidity. That is why it needs to be moistened regularly and often with a spray bottle. During the flowering period, only the air near the bush is humidified from the sprayer, because drops of water falling on the surface of the bracts are extremely undesirable. When the plant does not bloom, it is better to moisten its foliage on both sides, and this will only benefit it.

There are other ways to increase humidity. So, not far from the flower you can place an open vessel filled with water, and you can also pour moistened pebbles into the tray and place the pot on it. If possible, purchase an electric humidifier and use it. It is necessary to moisten the foliage and water the bush exclusively with soft water, which must be well settled, passed through a filter or boiled.

Watering

Water the plant generously during vigorous growth, which occurs in spring and summer. The soil mixture should be slightly moist (not soggy) at all times. Watering is carried out immediately after the top layer of the substrate is half dry. On average, watering is carried out 1-2 times every 7 days. You need to pour water into the pot until it begins to flow out of the holes in its bottom. However, remember that although the flower loves moisture, under natural conditions it prefers to grow on rocky soil, so do not allow liquid to stagnate in the substrate. In this regard, the water that has flowed into the pan after watering must be poured out.

With the onset of autumn, watering is gradually reduced so that the bush can prepare for the upcoming dormant period. Between November and February it should be watered very sparingly and rarely. However, make sure that the earthen ball in the pot does not dry out completely. On average, at this time, watering is carried out once every 15–20 days. The warmer the room, the more often watering is carried out. If in winter all the foliage has fallen off the bush, watering is suspended until the end of the dormant period.

Fertilizer

Thanks to proper and timely feeding, bougainvillea will grow beautifully and bloom luxuriantly. Systematic fertilizing with liquid fertilizers is carried out from the beginning of spring until the second half of autumn. Fertilizers for flowering plants with a high content of potassium, phosphorus and iron are suitable for this; thanks to them, a lot of buds will form on the bush and the flowering will be lush. Do not overfeed the plant with nitrogen, as this has an extremely negative effect on flowering.

soil mixture

The flower needs fertile, light soil that allows water and air to pass through well. To do this, you can use a universal soil mixture for flowering indoor plants, the pH of which should be in the range of 5.5–6.0. If desired, you can make the earthen mixture yourself. To do this, you will need to combine coarse river sand, turf and leaf soil, as well as humus (1: 2: 2: 1). To ensure that the soil mixture is sufficiently loose, it is recommended to add a small amount of chalk, vermiculite, wood ash, and also to prevent fungal diseases, add pieces of charcoal to it. Each of the components must be disinfected to remove viruses, parasites and infections present in them. To do this, they can be poured with freshly boiled water or steamed. After disinfection, allow the substrate to dry.

Pot

A suitable pot for planting should be only 20 mm larger than the previous container or a couple of centimeters larger than the root system of the bush, taken together with a lump of earth. If the container is too spacious, then the bougainvillea’s greenery and root system will grow intensively, which will have an extremely negative impact on flowering. In addition, thin roots are not able to quickly absorb the entire volume of the soil mixture, which means that liquid will stagnate in it, which will lead to acidification of the substrate. The container should be high, but not too wide.

Before planting, make a drainage layer 30 to 40 mm thick at the bottom of the pot; for this you can use large pebbles, expanded clay or polystyrene foam.

Replanting bougainvillea

The dormant period ends in early spring and the bush begins to grow actively. At this time, you can observe the beginning of intensive growth of foliage, shoots and roots. It is at the beginning of spring that it is recommended to transplant the flower.

Young specimens grow very quickly. When grown in greenhouse conditions, the height of the bush can increase by 300 centimeters in 12 months. Remember that the larger the container, the longer the stems and branches will grow. If the bush grows in a cramped container, then its height will not increase as actively, but it will bloom very luxuriantly. While the plant is young, it is replanted regularly once a year, this allows the nutritional value of the soil to be restored. Adult plants are replanted much less frequently, namely, once every 3 or 4 years, since they tolerate this procedure very poorly. Often the transplanted bush is very sick at first, does not bloom and its leaves fall off. In this regard, it is recommended to replant it by transferring it into a larger container, while trying not to injure the root system. After transplanting, check the root collar; it should not be buried. The free space in the container is filled with fresh soil mixture; there is no need to compact it, but make sure that there are no voids left. The transplanted bush is watered and put in a shaded place for several days, this will allow the root system to quickly take root and become accustomed to the new soil mixture. After this, the flower is transferred to its old place.

In an adult bush, the stems on which the flowers are located weigh a lot, so they need support. To do this, install a support made of wire or bamboo. While the plant is young, a wire staple is sufficient. Bend it in half, fold it at the required angle and stick it into the substrate at the base of the bush.

Replanting bougainvillea, pinching bougainvillea. How to shape bougainvillea

Bloom

It is thanks to its spectacular and long-lasting flowering that bougainvillea is so loved by gardeners. Flower buds are laid in winter during the dormant period. And in May, flowering begins, and the bush becomes more like a large colorful bouquet, consisting of open inflorescences and spectacular bracts, because of which sometimes it is even impossible to see the leaves. In indoor conditions, with good care, bougainvillea can bloom for 6–7 months (from May to November). The shape and color of the bracts vary among different varieties. They can be colored pink, violet, white, purple or lilac. Of particular decorative value are those varieties in which double bracts are placed in several rows. Small cream-colored flowers do not last long; after opening, they quickly fade and fly away. The bracts remain on the branches for a long time, sometimes up to six months or even longer.

To achieve the greatest decorative effect, you can plant 2 bushes of different varieties in one container, for example, with purple and white bracts. As bougainvilleas grow, their trunks intertwine. When the bushes bloom, the house is decorated with a lush lilac-white bouquet.

Trimming

An important procedure when cultivating bougainvillea indoors is its pruning. With its help you can not only give the correct shape to the bush, but also stimulate flowering. Over the course of one year, several prunings are carried out.

In spring, injured, weakened and dried branches are removed from the bush. In the summer, inflorescences that have lost their attractive appearance are cut off. In the autumn months, when flowering ends, pruning is also necessary. After the bracts begin to fade, young shoots are shortened by 1/3 of their length, with 6 to 8 buds remaining on each of them. Those young shoots that grow incorrectly or are superfluous must be cut back to the trunk. Old branches that are more than 3 years old should not be touched, because this will not give a noticeable effect, but the bush will be severely injured.

Also in the fall, before the dormant period begins, formative pruning is carried out. If desired, the plant can be given the appearance of a multi-stemmed bush, and you can also not cut off its shoots, which look like vines; over time, on a support, they are given an unusual shape (for example, a ring or a heart). Also quite spectacular compositions are those where the branches are wrapped around figured frames, decorative trellises or trellises. Remember that during the process of pruning, you need to leave a sufficient number of buds of the current season on the stems; the fact is that dormant buds on old stems wake up very rarely, and therefore young shoots may not appear on the bush at all.

Pruning Bougainvillea Starts Flowering

Bonsai

Bougainvillea can be formed into a bonsai - a tree with several branches and one stem. In order to do this, you need to leave 2-3 branches on the bush and remove all the rest. This type must be maintained for a very long time until the tree becomes woody. After this, you need to trim all the central branches into a stump. Then you need to wait until young shoots grow on the bush. All this time you need to keep their growth under control: long shoots need pruning and pinching, the excess ones are removed, and those that are directed in the wrong direction are corrected with wire. After the branches become woody, the supports must be removed. Shortly before the start of the dormant period, the formation of the bonsai is suspended; in this case, the bush will have time to produce young shoots and flower buds will form on them. And with the onset of spring, bonsai will be decorated with dense and spectacular inflorescences.

It happens that a mini-tree has bare branches from below, which have an extremely negative effect on its appearance. To correct this, cuttings can be grafted onto these branches. To begin, select a young green shoot from the crown of the plant and cut it, then tear off all the foliage from it, but this must be done carefully so as not to injure the buds. Select a location on the branch where the grafting will take place. Make a hole in this place using a drill, and select a drill of a suitable size. Then the cutting is installed in it. The cutting will take root quickly enough, and the tree will look neater. Remember that the cutting must be inserted into the hole so as not to injure the buds, especially the one that is located very close to the trunk. After grafting, provide your bougainvillea with good care. To do this, you need to water it on time, do not move it to another place and do not turn it, since there is a high probability that you will accidentally disturb the position of the grafted branches.

Grafting a different variety

In order to create a multi-colored, spectacular look of bougainvillea, branches of a different variety can be grafted onto the stems of the bush. For example, a cutting from a bush with white bracts is grafted onto a plant with red bracts. Step-by-step vaccination instructions:

1. Take a sterilized, very sharp tool and use it to make a not very deep side cut on the rootstock.
2. Using the same tool, cut the scion from another bush.
3. Grind the tip of the scion and place it in the side cut on the rootstock.
4. To fix the vaccination site, a vaccination adhesive plaster and medical glue are used. It will be possible to remove the adhesive plaster only after several months.

Bougainvillea. Growing and care.

Reproduction

Propagation of bougainvillea, now cultivated indoors, is possible in three ways:

• stem cuttings;
• rooting of air layering;
• seeds.

Considering the growing interest of Russians in bougainvillea and its propagation at home, we will dwell on each of them in more detail.

The cutting method is the easiest and most efficient. Cuttings are prepared at the very beginning of summer, choosing shoots that by this time have become half lignified. It is important not to spoil the mother plant, so non-flowering shoots or those that thicken the crown are cut off. The foliage of the lower part of the cutting is removed. The cut site is sprinkled with charcoal powder for disinfection, and then with any of the root formation stimulants, for example, root.

For rooting, the cuttings are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a container and covered with a lid or film. It is important to keep the soil mixture warm with the thermometer at 25-26 degrees and always moist. The greenhouse should be located in a well-lit place. For successful rooting, it is better to provide bottom heating and artificial lighting. Ventilating the cuttings periodically is as important as watering to maintain moisture. Watch. As soon as you notice that the cutting has begun to grow, you should open the greenhouse. By the end of 2 months, roots will appear. It's time to delicately replant the plant into a pot no higher than 10 cm, filled with soil from a mixture of peat, sand, compost and leaf soil.

Next, the young plant is grown in a cool, bright place with a temperature of approximately 20°C. Pinching is carried out for the purpose of branching at the moment when the length of the shoot reaches 5 cm.

After the pot is completely filled with the root system, the bush is transplanted into a pot of a larger diameter, about 12 cm. You should not forget to place a generous layer of drainage on the bottom, which will prevent stagnation of liquid in case of waterlogging.

Propagation of bougainvillea by cuttings at home is possible even in winter. During winter cuttings, cutting is carried out in February-March. The main thing is that the selected shoot has 2-3 buds. The lower leaves are removed completely, and the upper ones are cut in half to reduce the area of ​​​​moisture evaporation. The cuttings are placed in a container with a dissolved root growth stimulator for a day, and then rooted according to the same scheme as the summer ones.

You can try propagating bougainvillea by cuttings in a glass of water. In order for the long-awaited roots to finally appear, you will have to provide a humidity of about 80%.

The good thing about the air layering method is that it can be done at any time of the year. It's done like this. A small container is filled with a moist substrate and placed next to the mother plant in the place where a young shoot has been selected that has retained its flexibility and has not yet become lignified. An incision or scratch is made on the bark of this shoot to stimulate the formation of roots. The shoot is bent to the soil and firmly secured with the cut section. Noticing that rooting went well, separate the sprout from the parent bush and plant it in its own pot. Vegetative propagation will take about 30 days. The grown plant is replanted, pinched and trimmed. By next season we can hope for the appearance of a flower ovary.

The third method is not popular among gardeners. Seed propagation is too long, difficult and often ineffective. It involves the pollination of flowers, which in nature are carried out by butterflies and miniature hummingbirds - residents of tropical regions. Artificial pollination is too troublesome.

You can buy seed material in a specialized store, but to obtain seedlings you will have to sacrifice a lot of effort and waiting time.

Top dressing

Feeding bougainvillea is a must! Especially during the activation of growth and flowering, the plant needs to receive nutrients at least once every 2 weeks. Flower growers with experience of communicating with the “Brazilian girlfriend” recommend using fertilizers of organic and mineral origin, specifically designed for ornamental flowering plants. During the dormant period, feeding should be stopped.

When choosing fertilizers, pay special attention to the fact that nitrogen compounds stimulate growth, while potassium and phosphate compounds stimulate flowering.

Flowering and wintering of bougainvillea

Under natural conditions, flowering can be observed all year round. If the plant is grown at home or in the garden, bougainvillea blooms several times a year. At the same time, the shrub has a pronounced dormant period when the foliage actively falls.

Today, thanks to the work of breeders, a large number of bougainvillea varieties and hybrids have been developed. Each plant has its own individual qualities and distinctive features. The color range of selected varieties of bougainvillea is especially diverse: purple, pink, lilac, brick shades.

If bougainvillea grows in the garden, it can be left in the open ground for the winter, providing additional shelter. Plants with white inflorescences tolerate cold the worst.

Trimming

Myths that the Brazilian “paper flower” is capricious, apparently, are based on a lack of knowledge and basic skills in plant formation. Meanwhile, pruning bougainvillea at home is one of the mandatory stages of indoor maintenance. By neglecting this procedure out of ignorance or lack of experience, you doom the plant to stop growing and flowering. Hence the lack of faith in one’s strength as a florist and the collapse of hopes. Let's fill the knowledge gap!

Several prunings are carried out per year. The time before spring awakening and on the eve of winter dormancy is good for this. In the spring, the shoots of last year are shortened by half, weakened, dried out and injured branches are removed. A correctly carried out procedure will mark the beginning of wild flowering. In late autumn, shoots should be trimmed to one third of the length, leaving 6-8 buds on each. At the same time, mature branches of three years of age are not touched, so as not to injure the bush unnecessarily.

In the active phase of growth and flowering, the purpose of pruning shoots is to maintain the aesthetic appearance of the bush. Inflorescences that have lost their visual appeal are cut off. The haircut is done above the bud or leaf. It is better to remove shoots that are weak or directed inward to the crown altogether. To stimulate the growth of side branches, which will bloom in lush colors in the same season, faded shoots are promptly removed.

In the autumn season, formative pruning will be successful. You can make your fantasies come true. You can give the plant the appearance of a multi-stemmed bush. By leaving several vine-like vines unpruned and strengthening them on a figured frame, you can achieve any bizarre shape of the bush. The main thing is not to forget to leave the current season's buds on the stem to be sure of the plant's renewal.

Bougainvillea species cultivated indoors are perfectly formed by pruning into a dwarf bonsai tree. Such a specimen will decorate the interior of the house, delight the owners and surprise the guests.

Where to buy bougainvillea

A person who has seen this amazing plant once cannot remain indifferent to it. The most asked question is where you can buy this exotic beauty.

There is a wide variety of varieties of this flower. They are used for planting outside, in warm weather, and as indoor plants.

You can buy exotic bushes in specialized stores, but it is better to buy in nurseries where they breed and improve bougainvillea bushes. Along with the purchase, a person receives a detailed description of the variety and recommendations for caring for it. When purchasing from a nursery, the buyer will be confident in the quality of the purchase.

In conclusion, we can say that bougainvillea is an incredibly beautiful plant, known all over the world. It is very difficult to find a person today who would not be delighted with her. In the modern world, breeders have worked hard to develop new varieties of this plant; now this exotic beauty is available to anyone from different climatic zones.

All plants influence a person only from the good side. Planting them gives every amateur gardener great pleasure. Grow flowers and let them only make you happy.

PS Recently, quite often on the Internet you can find such a product as ginger! It turns out that ginger is quite useful and has many qualities! But at the same time, many are very interested in learning how to store ginger root, because each product has its own specific shelf life!

Pests and diseases

Tropical bougainvillea is already by birthright endowed with resistance to attacks by pests and diseases. The main thing is to provide complete care and concern for maintaining the natural immunity of the plant.

However, it is recommended to regularly inspect the flower for parasites. Quite rarely, but an attack on a plant by a spider mite, aphid or mealybug occurs. Well-known insect control methods, including insecticide treatment, will help. It’s great if you managed to preserve the aesthetic appeal of the plant. Only timely action will protect pets from exhaustion and even death.

As a rule, uninvited bloodthirsty insects settle in the house with the arrival of new green guests. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to make it a rule that a two-week quarantine is required for each new flower.

A symptom of powdery mildew disease is the appearance of a whitish coating on the leaves. If action is not taken immediately, the plaque will turn brown. You will need to remove the affected areas, dust them with sulfur and treat them with special preparations.

With chlorosis, the leaves turn pale and yellow, and white spots appear on the surface of the leaf blade.

The appearance of rot on the roots is not a death sentence! Bougainvillea needs to be saved. To do this, free the root system from the soil and inspect it, cutting out the affected roots. The remaining healthy roots must be temporarily dipped in a solution of life-saving phytosporin. Irrigate the foliage of the plant with part of the solution. Disinfect the cut areas by dusting with crushed wood ash. At the end of the treatment, plant the bush in fresh nutritious soil and give caring care.

Throw away imaginary fears and self-doubt! Knowing the secrets of keeping bougainvillea at home, you can easily realize the dream of creating a garden of Eden in your home and find a new friend in the person of the magnificent beauty of the tub plant - the Brazilian queen of the carnival.

3.Bougainvillea varieties:

3.1. Bougainvillea Double or terry - Bougainvillea double

A line of varieties (approximately 18 subspecies) with a large number of bright bracts, colored in red, crimson, pink, salmon, white or greenish shades. Plants of this variety are in bloom at any time of the year, and in the warmer months the bracts almost completely hide the green, heart-shaped leaves. The plants have thin, flexible, spiny shoots, develop quickly and weave around the support provided to them.

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3.2.Smooth bougainvillea or glabra - Bougainvillea glabra

A fast-growing vine that flowers earlier than most species. Grow as a vertical gardening plant or in shrub form as needed. Currently, there are dwarf varieties that are convenient to keep at home in pots. The leaves are dark green, heart-shaped, reminiscent of lilac. The bracts are very thin - papery in appearance, purple, red or pink, surrounding small creamy white flowers. In the absence of a cool dormant period, flowers can appear on the plant at any time of the year, and the flowering period can last 1 - 1.5 months.

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3.3.Bougainvillea Vera - Bougainvillea Vera Deep Purple

A very attractive appearance with crimson bracts, which lighten and acquire a pink tint as they bloom, the flowers are small, creamy-cream in color. This plant is especially impressive when grown as a bonsai.

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3.4. Bougainvillea Alexandra - Bougainvillea Alexandra

A widely known variety with light green foliage and bright lilac bracts. These fast-growing flowering shrubs reach a height of 3 m. The flowering period is long and lasts from May to October.

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