Cattleya appeared at home in the middle of the 18th century. The first plant brought to Europe bloomed in a greenhouse in the English town of Barnet in 1818 thanks to the efforts of W. Cattleya, a great connoisseur of tropical flora. Subsequently, D. Lindley, who first described the genus, which today consists of more than 180 species, named it in honor of a gardener and florist from a London suburb.
Graceful representatives of the Orchid family grow naturally in various climatic conditions of Central and South America - in the humid Amazonian jungle on tree trunks in the shade of their crowns, on dry mountain slopes under the influence of direct sunlight.
Description of the orchid (flowering characteristics, period, duration)
Interestingly, unlike the others, this orchid has bulbs with several shoots holding 1-2 dense leaves. The processes are formed at the bases of the last axes due to which the cattleya can grow in width.
Inflorescences: terminal or racemose (on the main shoot there are individual flowers on pedicels, approximately equal in length), emerges from the axil of the leaf plate, the integumentary leaves act as a “cover” for it.
During the flowering period, large flowers appear on the plant. Their petals can be thin, elongated, rounded, corrugated, etc. They are painted in various colors: from white and olive to gold and crimson. The flower also has a “lip” of a specific shape and a shade contrasting with the petals.
The culture is adapted to development and growth both at altitudes corresponding to sea level and in the mountains.
As a rule, the study of this species should begin from the stem. In this orchid it is short, thick and fleshy. At the beginning of development, the plant has several growth bases, but over time they die off, and only one growth remains. The pseudobulb develops from one to two fleshy leaves that have an elongated shape. They are compacted and do not bend as the crop grows. According to the number of leaves, cattleyas are:
- Unifoliate
False bulbs are flattened, spindle-shaped, from which one leaf grows.
- Bifolia
Pseudobulbs are long, cylindrical in shape, producing several leaves.
Thanks to its aerial root system, the orchid can live in different conditions. The rhizome is the connecting structure for all pseudobulbs. It provides the crop with nutrition and moisture from the air and soil.
The duration of Cattleya flowering is from ten days to a month, depending on the species. There are varieties that bloom in winter and spring seasons.
An orchid flower consists of 3 petals and 3 sepals. The middle petal has brighter shades and delicate fringe along the edges. It is shaped like a funnel or lip and acts as a platform for insects and hummingbirds, which perform the function of pollinating flowers.
The diameter of the corolla is from 2-4 millimeters to 25 centimeters. The color can be pink, lilac, crimson or white. On plants with more than 4 pseudobulbs, the flowers begin to bloom alternately. So a flower can live for more than 20 days.
The thick aroma of the Cattleya flower is reminiscent of the smell of lily of the valley or lily. A cut orchid can remain without water for a long time and not wither. Thanks to this quality, in the 19th and 20th centuries, women complemented their look with flowers at social events.
Natural habitat
Since the plant’s homeland is the south and west of America, the natural environment of the flower is seasonally dry equatorial forests at an altitude of no higher than 1500 meters.
Appearance of the plant
Cattleya is a universally recognized standard of beauty among orchids. In nature, it reaches sizes from 30 cm to one and a half meters. In indoor culture, it does not exceed 30–45 cm. It forms many aerial roots. The flowering of cattleya, like a spectacular show, amazes with the sophistication of its forms, richness of shades and stunning aroma, superior to the smell of lilies and lilies of the valley combined.
Like a sympodial plant, cattleya develops thick stems - pseudobulbs with 2-3 internodes. Every year, a young shoot appears at the base of an adult shoot from previous years. Each pseudobulb, depending on the type, forms 1 or 2 leathery or fleshy leaves of a rich green color.
Depending on the time of flowering, there are autumn-blooming cattleyas and those with spring bud formation. Orchid blooming is a real holiday! The peduncle appears from the leaf axil, rolled up like a little bag into a cover of integumentary leaves; at the top it bears one or several large fragrant flowers in a racemose inflorescence. Their colors are different - from snow-white, light purple and pale pink to sunny yellow, crimson, greenish, deep purple, maybe just blue and black.
The corolla consists of three sepals and three petals, brightly and equally colored. The middle petal is modified into a lip, funnel-shaped or tubular, the edges of which are curled outward and, in most cattleyas, ruffled. The shade of the lip is usually darker than the petals, or a contrasting color, sometimes decorated with various patterns of spots and strokes, the throat is usually yellow. The Cattleya fruit is a capsule with microscopic seeds.
Cattleya orchid
Varieties
There are a large number of representatives of the cattleya orchid. Each hybrid differs in size, shade, flowering duration, etc. The most common types should be considered.
Cattleya bicolor
One of the first representatives of this species, originally from Brazil. Natural environment - rocks, altitude from 400 to 1200 meters above sea level. In savannas it lives in well-ventilated places, protected from sunlight. The growth of such a crop can reach more than half a meter, and the diameter of the flower is 8-10 cm. The larger the size of the orchid, the greater the number of inflorescences it can have.
Blooms in autumn and winter. Cattleya can take on shades of brown, green or orange, with a purple lip and lighter edges.
Cattleya forbesii
This type of orchid was discovered more than two hundred years ago, one of the few white cattleyas. The height of the plant is no more than 20 centimeters, but despite this, the flowers are quite large and can reach 10 cm in diameter. Color: olive green, yellowish green with brown, the “lip” is white with a pinkish tint. Flowering season is summer and autumn.
Cattleya aclandiae
Homeland - Brazil. The species is adapted to living in trees at an altitude of up to 400 meters. A distinctive feature is green leaves with red “freckles”. The culture belongs to small orchids, the height reaches 7-12 cm. In the photo, the color of the Cattleya flower has a pink-lilac tint. Radius – no more than 5 cm.
Cattleya labiata (lipped)
Cattleya orchid lives on the bark of trees. Pseudobulbs have a spindle-shaped shape, the size does not exceed 25 cm. Color: pink, lilac with a “lip” of a similar shade, which has a pink fringe. The radius of flowers can reach 6-9 cm.
Blooms during the summer for a month.
Cattleya mossiae (Easter)
Originally from Venezuela. Flowering in the spring during the Easter holidays. The color of the flowers can range from soft pink to purple, and occasionally white. “Lip” is yellow and purple, with light fringe along the edges. The flower size reaches 18 centimeters.
The most popular forms obtained by sectioning are:
- Brassocattleya Binosa
- Laeliocattleya
- Sophrolaeliocattleya
Usually, they are united under a single name - Cattleya hybrida .
How to determine the type of cattleya?
Cattleya is a magnificent type of orchid, the color range of plants is huge. It has many varieties and their crosses, which differ in the shape and color of the petals, leaves, and the duration of the resting phase. According to the growing season, plants are divided into:
- autumn;
- spring
The former do not have a long-term dormancy regime, the latter rest for a long time before and after the growing season. The cattleya orchid has a thickened tubular stem on which 1-3 fleshy silver-emerald leaves are placed. On one peduncle, orchids grow up to five large corollas 5-25 cm in size, their color is very different - from snow-white to dark purple. In the natural environment, epiphytic Cattleya is found, living on tree trunks, and lipophytic, living on stones. These factors are dominant in the maintenance of plants.
Cattleya Dinard
The well-known hybrid Blue Heaven is a beautiful variation of orchids, pleasing with corollas up to 20 cm in size. This cattleya has a blue flower with sepals and corrugated petals of a heavenly or lilac tone. The plant's lip is purple with a corrugated edge, its throat is yellow-golden. The Dinard orchid has a deep, pleasant aroma and blooms in both spring and autumn.
Cattleya Aclanda
The Aclanda orchid is a dwarf plant that grows naturally in Brazil on single trees near rivers. This cattleya, as a houseplant, is attractive with its low height - about 10 cm. It is equipped with rounded bulbs and two leathery leaf plates; the inflorescence consists of one or two corollas. Each of them is 10 cm in size, they are fragrant, dense, long-lived. Cattleya Aclanda produces large greenish-straw flowers with chocolate-chestnut streaks and spots. The lip on the corolla is pink-white or reddish with light borders.
Cattleya Mix
Many hybrid plants are called Mix orchids. During breeding, different types of cattleyas were crossed with each other with repeated intervarietal mixing. The result was orchids with contrasting petals and lips (for example, lemon corollas with burgundy centers). In most cases, their ancestor is Cattleya labia. It has foliage up to 25 cm in size, peduncles 10-15 cm long. Cattleya has a color from white to purple of varying intensity. The lip is noticeable, darker, with reddish streaks in the throat, forms a wide tube with a curly edge.
Cattleya Maxima
The maxima orchid grows naturally in Colombia, Peru, and Ecuador. It has elongated elliptical leaf plates of 25 cm and a peduncle of 18 cm. This lush orchid, Cattleya maxima, can have up to 15 corollas on one stem. Its flowers are snow-white or lavender-purple with purplish-violet thin veins on the inside of the lip and a yellow streak. The orchid is distinguished by the interesting structure of its petals - they are elongated-lanceolate, narrow, curved back at the ends and along the edge.
Cattleya Schroeder
Schroeder's orchid is a beautiful diva in the kingdom of species orchids, the owner of many honorary certificates, and was named in honor of the German baroness - the wife of the botanist who bred this species. Cattleya Schroeder is a large flower, has a delicate pink-pearl color of the petals, a lip with a dark lemon or fiery interior and a sweetish smell. There is a white cattleya with a lemon core; dark colors are not found in this variety. Flowers of the Schroeder variety last longer than all other species of orchids - about five weeks.
How to choose in a store
Choosing a healthy plant is not difficult: there should be no dark spots or any insects on the leaves. If you like a particular species, you should study the information about when this variety will bloom. The false bulb and leaves should be elastic, not wrinkled, light green or dark green in color. The stem of the plant should not be dry or contain any stains.
Assessing the condition of the root system is the most difficult thing: a cattleya flower is planted in an opaque transport container, so it is impossible to look through the wall of the pot and analyze the condition of the rhizome. You can take the tops of the plant in your hand and shake it slightly: if the flower shakes, then it has no roots; if it stands firmly, then the root system is intact. Practice shows that cattleyas sold in flower shops and garden centers either have no roots at all or have dead rhizomes.
Tips for buying a plant
When buying a cattleya, be sure to ask what period it is in (unless, of course, it is a flowering specimen). If it has flowered, then it needs to be provided with conditions for a period of rest. If you are preparing for growth, then, accordingly, care should be more intense. It all depends on the variety and its flowering period.
You need to carefully examine the flower after purchase. It may need replanting if it was kept in shipping soil or the substrate is of poor quality.
When buying a cattleya, you must definitely study its varietal characteristics in order to provide it with appropriate care.
Cattleya care at home after purchase
In order for Cattleya to grow and develop correctly, it needs regular care at home.
Location and lighting
The Cattleya plant needs intense lighting, so the best place for Cattleya after purchase will be a windowsill facing south or east. If this is not possible, the pot with the plant can be left on the south side, but at noon it is necessary to shade the orchid in order to avoid overheating and sunburn.
But a flower located on the north side will not bloom even when interacting with artificial light.
Sometimes the leaves of a flower themselves can signal a problem (the appearance of spots, a change in color), so this crop must be treated carefully.
The room where the cattleya is located should be ventilated, but drafts should be avoided. If the air temperature is not lower than 13-15 degrees, the flower can be safely left on a loggia or glassed-in balcony with an influx of fresh air.
Temperature
Since each type of cattleya orchid has an individual temperature, you need to know in detail about your own hybrid. For a heat-loving plant:
– Summer temperature: 25-28°C during the day, 20-22°C at night
– Winter temperature: 16-18°C during the day, 12-14°C at night
For other species, these parameters are not suitable: they do not tolerate temperatures above 25 °C in the summer, but in winter a temperature of 10-12 °C is considered optimal for proper functioning.
If the plant is in the phase of active growth or flowering, the temperature difference should not be less than 5°C, but not exceed 8°C. Otherwise, the flower may either not bloom or become sick.
Critical temperatures: maximum 30°C and minimum 5°C.
Watering
It is recommended to water the orchid 2-3 times a week after lunch. It is important to ensure that the soil is completely dry after the last watering, otherwise excess moisture can destroy the flower. In the mornings and evenings, it is recommended to spray the cattleya, avoiding getting water on the inflorescences.
The water should be soft: it is better to take distilled or boiled water. Moisture should flow to the root. There is no need to pour leaves, otherwise pus may appear.
In the summer, you can lower the flower pot into water for 7-15 minutes.
In winter, the roots absorb moisture less, so watering should be no more than 2-4 times a month.
Humidity
To care for cattleya, it is necessary to provide a high percentage of humidity in the room. At the same time, you should not forget about ventilation: a fresh air flow is needed for full growth.
Since the humidity level decreases in winter, it is worth thinking in advance about how to provide optimal conditions for the plant.
Top dressing
Fertilizer is an integral part of catleya care . It must correspond to the phase of flower development. During the active growth phase, you should choose fertilizing with nitrogen supplements. During the formation of false bulbs, fertilizers should contain phosphorus-potassium vitamins. You need to feed the orchid several times a month. During the formation of buds, fertilizing should be stopped. This way the Cattleya blooms will last longer.
It is recommended to mix additives with watering to stimulate the formation of buds with large flowers.
During dormancy, the orchid does not need any supplements.
Rest period
After the orchid flowering phase, you need to rest. The duration of the dormant period depends on the hybrid. Cattleyas that bloom in autumn or in the first month of winter rest immediately after flowering until the first shoot appears. Crops that bloom in late winter - the first months of spring rest after the formation of a new bulb in the fall before flowering begins. During the dormant period, the cattleya needs a cool place. Watering - no more than twice a month, exclude fertilizing. The light should be bright, you can use an LED lamp.
At this time, you need to monitor the condition of the pseudobulbs and prevent them from shrinking. There is no need to spray the flower. A resting orchid should not be exposed to sunlight to avoid reforming the plant's life cycle.
Cattleya soil
For Cattleya, you can use regular soil purchased at the store. You can prepare the substrate yourself by mixing bark, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, peat and moss. If desired, you can add pieces of charcoal to prevent fungus. This way the substrate can imitate the natural habitat of the crop.
If the orchid grows on the south side, you can use “coco soil”, which includes bark, oak leaves, moss and coconut fiber. Thanks to the structure of the fiber, the rooting process in the substrate will be accelerated.
Transfer
When caring for and growing cattleya, you must remember that this plant reacts negatively to transplantation. If there is no such need, the flower needs to be replanted every few years to renew the soil.
You can take any pot, as long as it does not allow air and sunlight to pass through. Two days before transplanting, the flower cannot be watered.
Instructions for transplanting Cattleya:
- Carefully pull the plants out of the pot and inspect the root system for damaged areas. If such roots are found, they need to be cut off and the cut areas treated with charcoal.
- Place a layer of substrate on the bottom of the new pot.
- Place the orchid in a pot and fill the voids with soil.
After the procedure, it is recommended to place a support in the container with the flower so that the plant does not tilt.
After transplantation, you should avoid watering for a week and moving the orchid from one place to another.
Planting Cattleya: suitable container and substrate composition
The orchid reacts painfully to transplantation, even transferring it along with the substrate into a larger pot, and does not show signs of active growth for a long time. As with many epiphytic plants, cattleyas choose a translucent flower container with holes in the side walls and bottom. The signal for transplanting cattleya is the state of the substrate: its oxidation or compaction. The right time for replanting is the beginning of vegetative growth, which can be easily determined by new shoots that have reached 2–3 cm.
Main components for composing the substrate:
- pine bark of small and medium fraction;
- sphagnum moss.
On the eve of planting, the bark is soaked in boiled water for two days, then the water is completely drained. At the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer of gravel or expanded clay 2 cm thick is laid, followed by larger pieces of bark. In case of dry air in the room, add a little foam to the substrate to retain moisture. Cattleya roots are placed in a flower container and sprinkled with small pieces of bark. Sometimes a little charcoal is added. The top is mulched with moss.
Cattleya orchid requiring replanting
Cattleya orchid propagation
This crop can be propagated in several ways, for example, using seeds or dividing pseudobulbs. But at home, it is better to use the second method, as it guarantees quick results and effects.
This process occurs during plant replanting. After removing the Cattleya from the pot, it is soaked in water to soak the soil. This will make it easier to disassemble the rhizome. After time, the orchid is dried and divided into parts. Important: each part must have living roots and at least three onions. The “wounds” must be treated with charcoal, and future flowers must be planted in pots.
Brief description of cultivation
- Bloom . The Cattleya plant is a beautiful flowering plant.
- Illumination . The flower needs direct sun rays before noon and after 16 hours. From May to August, the orchid is placed on a south-facing window sill (shaded from midday), and from August to May - on a window facing south-west or east.
- Temperature regime . Grows well at temperatures typical for a living room. When preparing a bush for flowering, you need a difference between night and day temperatures of 5–7 degrees.
- Watering . During the growing season, the orchid is watered as the substrate in the pot dries. Do not allow drops of water to fall on the bush. During the dormant period, watering should be less frequent, but switch to moistening the surface of the substrate with a spray bottle. As soon as the peduncle appears, watering should be resumed.
- Air humidity . The flower is systematically moistened with a sprayer and given a warm shower from time to time.
- Fertilizer . Cattleya needs to be fed while the pseudobulbs are growing, after which the plant is no longer fertilized. Fertilizers begin to be added to the substrate again after the appearance of the peduncle. Use complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
- Rest period . As a rule, in autumn or winter after the bush has faded. During this period, it is not fed, but instead of watering, the surface of the substrate is sprayed. The flower needs bright light, and the daylight hours should be long (it is recommended to install additional artificial lighting).
- Transplant . Most often, the bush is replanted if the soil mixture in the pot turns sour and cakes. The flower tolerates transplantation extremely poorly.
- Reproduction . By shoots and division of the bush.
- Harmful insects . Aphids, spider mites, scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies.
- Diseases . Gray rot, bacterial spot, black rot and powdery mildew.
Growing Cattleya Orchid
After planting, the cattleya orchid needs proper care at home.
You need to put a support in the pot, since the rhizome is not yet fixed in the ground. Over time it can be removed.
If the roots have been drying all night, you need to water the orchid right away; if less, you should postpone watering for a couple of days. If propagation was carried out in the summer, it is necessary to water on the second day, if in winter - on the fourth. Since false bulbs always have a supply of water, there is no need to worry about the plant.
Care and maintenance
Although cattleya is considered a rather demanding plant, it does well in indoor conditions. Proper care at home and good placement guarantee regular flowering.
Lighting
Bright, but diffuse. For example, for a species such as Cattleya sea breeze, it is better to choose windows with a western or eastern orientation.
If the side is south, shading is needed in summer. In hot weather, the windows are kept open, but the cattleya is protected from drafts. In winter, additional lighting is required.
Temperature
In summer, cattleya feels comfortable at + 24 – 26 degrees, and in winter – at +12 – 15. The difference between day and night indicators is no less than 5 or 7 degrees. In the warm season, the flower is taken out into the open air.
Air humidity
Modern hybrids get used to different humidity levels. The best indicator for them is 40-60%. This is how plants develop better. The hotter it is, the higher the humidity should be, up to 80%. These indicators can be regulated by wrapping the stems with pieces of damp moss, a tray with water, spraying and a shower.
Watering
Cattleya watering is usually plentiful. During the period of active growth, cattleya consumes a lot of moisture. The soil should dry to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. It is better to use the immersion method. Place the pot in a large container of warm water for about 10 minutes.
Note! If the substrate is bark, water every three days. In cold weather, irrigation is reduced.
Feeding
If you fertilize your cattleya while it is growing, the chances of successful flowering increase. They are added every 7 or 14 days. Use special products for orchids. The use of complex preparations containing a lot of phosphorus and potassium is allowed. With the appearance of the cover, feeding is stopped. When the buds are formed, they begin to apply again.
The soil
It is better to buy soil for this plant in the store. Special mixtures for orchids are suitable. You can also use bark mixed with moss and crumbled foam. This way the roots will receive enough oxygen and moisture.
Transfer
Mandatory replacement of the pot and substrate is done every two years after the end of dormancy. The container is small, a little cramped. Get rid of dry and rotten roots. The plant is provided with support.
Reproduction
Many novice gardeners are wary of growing this plant. But the process of reproduction of the cattleya orchid is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance
Cattleya crystelle smith, like other species, reproduces in two ways:
- Dividing the bush. Water the plant well, carefully remove it from the pot and wash the roots with room water. Using a sharp blade, divide the bush into several parts (three bulbs and living roots on each part). The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal and dried. The finished divisions are planted in pots.
- Children. The shoot with roots and leaves is cut off from the mother. Soak for several hours in any growth stimulant and place in a substrate of fine pine bark. Maintain even temperature, diffused light and water regularly.
This video shows how to make cuts in a cattleya and divide its bush.
Diseases and pests, methods of protection and treatment
Unfortunately, sometimes even with careful care, cattleya may neither grow nor bloom, or even die. It's all about crop diseases or the presence of insects that harm the flower.
Diseases
The main diseases of orchids are:
- Gray rot: spots with a gray coating on flowers
The roots need to be soaked in water with succinic acid for several days, and after new ones appear, the orchid must be transplanted into new soil.
- Chlorosis: yellow spots on leaves
This disease indicates a lack of iron. It is recommended to replant the flower, and add spraying with preparations high in this mineral to the care of the cattleya orchid.
- Root rot: blackening of shoots and leaves
If overwatered, the roots may begin to rot. In order to correct the situation, the plant needs to be replanted and not watered temporarily.
- Mosaic virus: deformation of flowers and leaves (no treatment possible)
This disease is characterized by excess soil moisture, which subsequently results in deformations. There is no treatment, the orchid will have to be disposed of and resort to planting a new cattleya .
It is important to notice the symptoms in time to avoid the death of the plant.
Pests
The queen of orchids is simply adored by various insects, especially spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale insects. To prevent infection, the flower must be inspected regularly. If pests are still found, you should try to wash them off with a warm shower. When most of the insects are destroyed, there is no need to use drugs. If pests appear again, you should resort to the use of chemicals, such as insecticides.
How to buy a healthy plant?
Cattleya is rightfully considered the queen of orchids . Bright, tall - like a queen, she towers on the store shelves above her brothers. The wide variety of colors is eye-catching.
But in order for the plant to take root in a new place after purchase, you need to choose it correctly .
When buying a cattleya, you need to pay attention to the condition of all parts of the plant:
- Roots. They must be well developed. When pressed - dense. Soft and flabby indicate improper care .
- Listyev. Like the rhizomes, they should be dense and elastic, without damage or sticky coating. A very dark shade of leaves indicates a lack of light. If they resemble an accordion, the air is too dry for them. The spots warn of insect infestation .
- Tsvetonosov. Pay attention to specimens that have both open flowers and buds on the peduncle. Flowers should be brightly colored and without signs of wilting.
Planting and subsequent care
For planting bushes of 2-3 tuberidia, containers with a diameter of 12 cm are suitable. If there are more pseudobulbs in the division, then the pots should be larger. First of all, you need to focus on how many roots each orchid has.
It is better to take a small pot so that the cattleya orchid masters it faster, and after 1-2 years transfer the flower to a larger container.
Pour 1-2 cm of expanded clay onto the bottom of the pot and rinse it with boiling water. Place a thin layer of sphagnum moss on top.
Using wire, attach the outer pseudobulbs to the skewers so that the rhizome, when installing the sticks in the pot, is 1-1.5 cm below its edge. This is done in order not to damage the root system. And in the case when, after processing, there were no roots left at all, Cattleya could stay in the container.
Important! When planting, the rhizome should lie on the ground and not be buried in it.
Holding the plant, we fill it with soil. Periodically tap the pot on the surface of the table so that the substrate fills all the voids. After the surface of the soil reaches the rhizome, cover the orchid with sphagnum moss.
There is no need to be afraid that the division does not have a root system: due to the nutrients accumulated in the tubes, it will last well until the moment when new shoots take root. Moss must be kept moist.
Place the orchids in a bright place. You can water it after 3-5 days. If Cattleya was sick, then treatment with fungicides and bactericides is necessary every 7-10 days. Fertilizers and stimulants cannot be used.
When purchasing a piece from a private collector, ask which part of the Cattleya is offered for sale:
- The last grown pseudobulbs are more expensive. They have a higher survival rate and flowering occurs earlier.
- Medium tubers also take root well, but the adaptation time and the wait for flowering are longer.
- Rear bulbs are the cheapest, since the buds take a long time to wake up. The first pseudobulb grown in new conditions will be smaller than those that were acquired. Full recovery will take several years.
Questions and answers
When caring for such a beauty, questions often arise that torment flower growers. There are only three common questions.
Why doesn't Cattleya bloom?
Most often, a flower does not want to bloom due to the lack of proper conditions that could ensure the formation and development of a peduncle. In order to avoid questions about how to bloom a cattleya, you need to make every effort during the active growth phase so that the plant blooms.
How to grow new roots?
Roots can be lost due to several factors:
- Improper care of Cattleya at home
- Old age
- Diseases
The most effective way to grow roots in a cattleya is to soak the orchid:
- A pot without holes is filled with water, placed in a well-lit place, and the orchid is placed for a couple of hours.
- The entire process of root growth lasts for a month; It is recommended to carry out this procedure in the warm season
- When the first roots appear, the flower should be left in water for an hour longer.
- When a full-fledged rhizome is formed, the plant can be transplanted into the ground.
Transfer
Cattleya does not really like and does not tolerate transplantation well, but it must be done once a year. One of the main reasons for replanting is soil oxidation .
The most difficult thing you can encounter when replanting a plant is removing the flower from the pot. This can be especially problematic if the flower is already mature and the root system has grown too large. If the orchid grows in a flexible flowerpot, then you should press it down a little from different sides, and then carefully remove it . If the container is hard, you need to insert a non-sharp device, such as a knife, into the substrate and try to rotate it in the container until it separates from the walls without effort.
Cattleya orchid transplant
After removing the orchid, its roots should be cleaned of the used substrate. To make this easier, you need to place the flower in warm water for 15-20 minutes . Then we clean the roots: holding them in the water by the pseudobulbs with one hand, with the other at the same time pushing the woven roots to opposite edges. It is advisable to change the water when washing, and can also be used to wash the roots.
If there are rotten or dry areas in the root system, they must be carefully cut off using sterile instruments and then the sections must be disinfected.
Before planting in new soil, the plant must be dried . In summer, it is good to use a balcony or gazebo for this.
Indications for transplantation
The need for a transplant is determined by a number of factors:
- Unsuitability of the substrate for further use - compaction, decomposition, salinization, acidification, lime deposits.
- The appearance of mold and rot on the soil or plant.
- Crowding when the plant exceeds the perimeter of the old container, forming new bulbs practically hanging in the air, while in the container there are only old pseudobulbs with dead roots.
- The need for propagation (division) of the plant.
Instruments and preparations
For dividing and planting you will need:
- small scissors; pruner;
- sharp knife (scalpel);
- wooden skewers (Chinese chopsticks);
- thin wire (twine).
All instruments must be thoroughly disinfected.
The following preparations should be prepared:
- zircon, NV-101;
- activated carbon or cinnamon;
- iodine, brilliant green or fucorcin.
Cattleya division process
Before removing the orchid from the pot, it needs to be soaked in a zircon solution or HB-101 for 30-40 minutes. Next, remove the plant from the container.
Some of the roots have rotted, there are several dry tubers. We divide the root ball, preferably under running water, freeing Cattleya from the old substrate. Use scissors to trim off dead soft roots.
Advice! If the pseudobulb is more than 10, then it would be better to first cut the plant into parts with pruning shears so that each has at least 3 tubers
Before covering the sections with iodine, brilliant green or fucorcin, you must wait 10-15 minutes. If they remain green, process and dry for an hour.
If the sections have changed color or there is a crimson rim around the rhizome, this is a signal that the plant is sick. The disease can affect the entire orchid or so far only a separate area.
Use a knife or scalpel to cut off 2-3 mm of the rhizome and wait for the reaction. If the darkening process continues, you need to cut further. You may have to remove the entire tube. When you are sure that the cut remains green within 10-15 minutes, treat it with iodine, brilliant green or fucorcin.
Check the roots, cut off rotten ones, treat with charcoal or cinnamon.
