Exotic Cattleya orchid: all about growing at home

Recently, new types of orchids, including Cattleya, are increasingly appearing on store shelves. They differ from Phalaenopsis in that they belong to sympodial types of orchids. This means that she has not one growth point, but many. A stem - a rhizome - spreads along the ground, from which roots grow downwards, and pseudobulbs (bulbs, tuberidia, tubera) grow upwards. Today I will share with you my experience of transplanting cattleya and dividing it.

Over the years, orchids outgrow the pot and require replanting.

The photograph shows that Cattleya’s rhizome “stepped” over the edge of the pot, and the roots began to entwine it from the outside. On the one hand, you can simply transfer the orchid into a large container. On the other hand, the plant requires:

• substrate replacement;
• pruning rotten roots;
• removal of old dry pseudobulbs.

In addition, the orchid needs to be divided into several bushes.

Important! In order for the plant to adapt faster, each division must have at least 3 tubers.

What does the Cattleya orchid look like and where does it come from?

Cattleya belongs to the multi-species Orchidaceae family. The plant received its name in honor of the British botanist and gardener William Cattley (or Cattleya), who in 1818 first made these orchids bloom in climatic conditions radically different from their native South and Central American tropics. The plant appeared in Europe a year earlier thanks to the efforts of American flora researcher William Swainson and created a real sensation.

The name Cattleya came into use after John Lindley published his book An Anthology of Botany (essentially a description of exotic plants) in 1821, which detailed Cattleya's successes.

In nature, the Cattleya orchid most often settles on trees, using them as a support.

In nature, the habitats of the Cattleya orchid are areas with different altitudes above sea level, climatic and weather conditions. Therefore, the plants bear little resemblance to each other. There are cattleya epiphytes and lithophytes, the flower diameter varies from 5 to 25 cm (by the way, the buds of natural orchids are even larger than those of selection hybrids).

Without knowledge of the structure of an orchid, it is impossible to properly care for the flower.

The aroma is subtle, similar to the smell of lily of the valley, lily (some breeding hybrids lack it). One flower lasts 3–4 weeks, they bloom sequentially. Most cattleyas bloom in autumn or winter.

The structure of the flower is typical for Orchids. It consists of three bright sepals and three larger petals, the middle of which (of a contrasting tone) is very elongated, resembling a protruding lip or funnel. Its edge is scalloped. This structure is due to the fact that orchids are pollinated by hummingbirds. The middle petal is a kind of “landing platform” for them.

The structure of an orchid flower is due to the fact that they are pollinated by hummingbirds

Cattleya constantly forms new shoots, so it grows greatly in width. The stem of the plant is a so-called tuberidium with 2-3 internodes, popularly called “pseudobulb”. It is quite thick, where the orchid stores moisture and nutrients absorbed by aerial roots. The shape of the stem is similar to a spindle slightly flattened along the vertical axis. In nature, the height of plants can reach 1.5 m, at home - 30–45 cm.

Orchid pseudobulbs are used to store moisture and nutrients.

The leaves are hard and smooth. There are rarely more than two leaf blades on a pseudobulb. The roots of the orchid are clearly recognizable - thick, but fragile, smooth, they are covered with a layer of special fabric that absorbs moisture (velomen).

Cattleya fell in love with European flower growers immediately and forever, not least due to its ability to interspecies crossing. The first hybrids bred were named in honor of the most revered saints and Christian holidays.

Cattleyas in nature

Cattleyas live in the tropical forests of Central and South America, especially in the Amazon delta. Like most tropical orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes, that is, they grow not on the ground, but on the trunks and branches of trees. This unusual way of existence allows the small plant to rise closer to the sunlight in the dense vegetation of the tropical forest. Unlike fungi and lichens, orchids do not parasitize trees and do not cause them any harm. Trees for epiphytes are only a support, but in no case a source of nutrition. Some species of cattleyas live on rocks and rocks and are called lithophytes.

Tropical orchids obtain water from rain, fog, dew and humid air, and “feed” on rotted plant debris that accumulates in cracks in the bark of trees or on the uneven surface of stones. Orchids tightly entwine the support with their thick aerial roots, using them to obtain water and all the necessary nutrients.

There are 44 natural species of cattleyas in the world and many natural (natural) and artificial (man-made) hybrids. Cattleyas are so popular that some of them have even become state symbols: Cattleya Mossa is the national flower of Venezuela, and Cattleya Triana is the national flower of Colombia.

Cattleyas came to botanical gardens and greenhouses in Europe in the 19th century: in 1817, botanist William Swenson brought several specimens of a new species of orchids to England from his Brazilian expedition. The plants were given to the Glasgow Botanic Gardens and to the private collection of the famous tropical plant enthusiast William Kettley. In 1818, one of the plants in Kettley's greenhouse blossomed, striking everyone with its unprecedented beauty and unusual flower shape. The new genus of orchids was named Cattleya in honor of the owner of the plant, and the first systematized species was named Cattleya Labiata.

In the 19th century, Europe was experiencing an orchid fever: rare tropical plants were extremely popular among the upper classes and cost incredible amounts of money. Entire overseas expeditions were sent for orchids, and the adventurers who participated in them risked their lives in uncharted tropical forests to collect rare plants and become fabulously rich. Whole ships loaded with orchids arrived in England. Unfortunately, many plants died during the long journey. The rest gradually died in gardens and greenhouses, because most flower growers of those times simply did not know how to care for them. As a result of the predatory extermination of natural populations of orchids and the massive death of plants in collections and during transportation, many species were irretrievably lost or were on the verge of extinction.

Nowadays, absolutely all orchids are included in the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) and are protected by the laws of the countries in which they grow: their collection in the wild is strictly prohibited and punishable up to criminal liability . The plants sold in stores are hybrids artificially bred by humans - their circulation does not harm nature. Some orchid suppliers specialize in selling natural species, mass propagated in greenhouse conditions from one or more plants taken from nature. Some unscrupulous businessmen still sell plants barbarically extracted from their natural habitat, which, of course, is illegal and causes enormous damage to the endangered population.

What varieties can be grown at home?

There are about 65 cattleyas found in nature, but there are incomparably more breeding hybrids. Any gardener will find a shade to his liking, but so far it has not been possible to produce only pure black and bright blue flowers.

Cattleyas growing in natural conditions:

• Two-color (bicolor). Plant height is 50–60 cm. The shoots are relatively thin. On each peduncle there is one flower with a diameter of 8–10 cm.
• Bowringiana. At home, it rarely grows above 35 cm. Flower diameter is 5–7 cm. There are up to 20 flowers in one inflorescence. After autumn flowering it needs a short period of rest.
• Forbes (forbesii). A miniature plant, no higher than 20 cm (usually 10–15 cm). The flowers are about 5 cm in diameter (there are 4–6 of them in an inflorescence), bloom during the summer for 10–15 days. The most unpretentious among cattleyas, but also one of the least decorative.
• Lipped (labiata). Petals are corrugated. The diameter of the flower is 15 cm, there are 2–3 of them in the inflorescence. Pseudobulbs are flat, covered with olive scales. The leaves, which are quite wide for cattleyas, are shallowly cut in two at the top. The main material for the creativity of breeders.
• Warshewicz or giant (warscewiczii). Height - 30–40 cm. The flowers are very large (25–30 cm), with a pronounced aroma, collected several times in racemes. Very whimsical, with rare exceptions, “in captivity” it blooms only in greenhouses and greenhouses.
• Orange-red (aurantiaca). Height - up to 40 cm. Shoots are covered with whitish scales. The height of the peduncle is no more than 20 cm. The diameter of the flower is 35 cm, there are 4–10 of them in the inflorescence.
• Ekland or Lady Ekland (aclandiae). A miniature epiphyte up to 15 cm high. Flower diameter is up to 10 cm. There are no more than two of them on one peduncle.
• Dow (dowiana). Sometimes it is not quite correctly called “doviana”. A very large lip, covered with thick fringe. Height - no more than 20 cm. Flower diameter - 15 cm. Widely used in breeding.
• Mossy (mossiae). An endemic species found exclusively in Venezuela. The national flower of this state. Height - up to 30 cm. In the inflorescence there are 7 flowers with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The petals are strongly fringed.
• Skinner (skinneri). The national flower of Costa Rica, although it grows not only there. The pseudobulbs are thick, 25–30 cm high. The diameter of the flower is 6–8 cm, there are 10–12 of them in the inflorescence.
• Trianae. In one inflorescence, the color of the petals can vary from almost white to deep purple. There is always a saffron-colored spot in the center of the lip. “Parent” of many breeding hybrids.
• Percival (percivaliana). Height - up to 15 cm. Peduncle length - up to 25 cm. Inflorescence has 2-4 flowers with a diameter of 10-12 cm. Blooms in mid-winter.
• Granular (granulose). Very unusual flowers, as if made of wax. Inflorescences are racemose, with 5–9 flowers.

Photo gallery: Cattleyas found in nature

Cattleya bicolor is distinguished by very fleshy petals, the edges of which do not curl.

Cattleya Bowringa - very bright lilac orchids (a characteristic feature is a bright yellow spot on the lip)

Cattleya Forbes - pastel pink or white lip stands out effectively against the background of discreet yellowish-beige petals

Cattleya lipped - the flowers shimmer in different shades of pink, lilac and purple

Cattleya Varshevich - pastel, lilac petals, lip, on the contrary, rich amestic

Cattleya orange-red with flame-colored petals

Cattleya Ekland - petals are yellowish-beige, with chocolate spots; on the lip shades change from pale pink to purple. Cattleya Dow's petal color varies from cream to golden with a slight red tint; the lip seems to be velvety, bright scarlet, with yellowish veins

Cattleya Mossi - very delicate white or pastel pink petals and a large lip with purple spots and a yellow base

Skinner's Cattleya is similar to Bowring's Cattleya, but, unlike it, it blooms in spring Cattleya Triana - this chameleon plant is highly valued by breeders

Cattleya Percival - petals are almost white, the lip is darker, with a pinkish border along the edge and a saffron base

The olive green petals of Cattleya granulosa would be almost invisible if not for the bright crimson spots on the lip

It is impossible to list all breeding hybrids of cattleyas.

Photo gallery: results of the work of breeders

Cattleya Eclipse - very large, dark crimson or purple flowers

The Margaret Degenhardt Saturn hybrid has petals painted in different shades of yellow, soft pink and lilac, smoothly merging into each other, it looks like a sunset in the tropics (blooms twice a year) Earl Imperialis is a very popular and relatively unpretentious snow-white orchid with ruffled petals and lip

Cattleya Miyuki Little King is distinguished by its growth rate and inflorescences similar to clusters Cattleya Luteous Forb - a miniature fragrant hybrid with petals of an unusual lime color

The Chocolate Drop hybrid has petals of an interesting raspberry-chocolate color (flower height - up to 40 cm, flower diameter - 4-5 cm) Cattleya Summer Stars are the favorite flowers of brides, rivaling the whiteness of the dress

General characteristics of all types of cattleyas

The inflorescence is apical with one bud or racemose, emerging from the leaf axil, covered with leaf blades growing at the base. The stem is sympodial, underdeveloped succulent. A young plant has several growth points. Over time, only the main shoot remains, the rest die off.

One or two narrowed, oblong leaves are formed in the pseudobulb. The plates are dense, fleshy or leathery, and do not bend during growth. Cattleya happens:

• unifoliate with fleshy, spindle-shaped bulbs with one leaf;
• bifolia with elongated, cylindrical bulbs with two or more leaves.

All false bulbs are connected by a root system. It is a creeping aerial flower, suitable for growing in the mountains or on trees. It can be located above the ground or deep into the soil.

Flowering lasts up to four weeks, the duration depends on the type of orchid. There are varieties that bloom flowers even in spring and winter.

A bud with three petals and the same number of sepals. There is a so-called “lip”. This is the middle petal in the form of a funnel or tube with a shade brighter than the rest, with a fringed edge.

The corolla circumference ranges from a few mm to 30 cm (depending on the Cattleya variety). The color can be pinkish, lilac, crimson, snow-white. As a rule, an orchid has at least four pseudobulbs, from which buds bloom in turn. Cattleya flowers have a pleasant aroma. Cut buds do not wither for a long time even without water.

Table: suitable conditions for growing Cattleya orchids (temperature and more)

The brighter the color of the petals and the larger the flower, the more natural light the cattleya needs to bloom. The hybrids collectively known as Potinara tolerate shade best. Accordingly, the conditions of keeping for different types of cattleya vary greatly. Therefore, it is advisable to know exactly the name of the variety.

Air humidity

In nature, Cattleya orchids grow in tropical forests on tree branches and on mossy stones around ponds, so they are accustomed to high air humidity, especially lithophytes. After the end of the rainy season, humidity decreases, but does not fall below 35%.

In greenhouses it is possible to maintain high values ​​of up to 70%, but in apartments and houses this is problematic.

You can increase air humidity by placing the plant on pallets with wet expanded clay, but, as practice has shown, its values ​​will not exceed 45%. Or use humidifiers.

Nevertheless, this value is quite enough for the comfortable existence of orchids.

Proper plant transplantation and subsequent care

Cattleyas vitally need good aeration, so the more drainage holes in the pot and the looser the soil, the better. The soil can be purchased at specialized stores or mixed yourself.

Orchids do not like frequent transplants. One procedure every 2-3 years is quite enough. If the roots are sticking out of the drainage holes, you need to take a larger pot. Obviously sour, sagging and moldy soil is enough to completely change, while sterilizing the pot.

Cattleya cannot be removed from the pot unless the substrate is thoroughly wetted first.

Orchids prefer special soil:

• crushed sphagnum moss and wet tree bark (1:1);
• peat chips, small pieces of charcoal, sphagnum moss, powdered tree bark (1:1:1:1);
• land from under coniferous trees; crushed pine or spruce bark and cones, finely chopped fern rhizomes, peat (2:2:1:3).

The soil for the Cattleya orchid bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word.

Transplanting a Cattleya orchid is a simple procedure. The best time for it is the very beginning of the active growing season (new shoots reach a height of 2–3 cm). Procedure steps:

1. Place a layer of drainage at least 3 cm thick on the bottom of the pot. Approximately the same amount of substrate on top.
2. Remove the flower from the old pot and shake off the soil from the roots. It is impossible to remove cattleyas from the container without preliminary abundant watering, especially if the pot is ceramic.
3. Using a sharp knife, cut off all dried pseudobulbs, rotten roots, and other parts of the plant damaged by diseases and pests. Sprinkle all sections with crushed chalk, wood ash, and activated carbon powder.
4. Replant the plant, leaving the base of the rhizome on the surface. You may need support for a while. Add substrate to the edges of the pot.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight for 3-4 days and do not water it. Then return to your usual place and resume care.

When transplanting cattleyas, be sure to cut off all dry and/or diseased roots.

Video: how to properly transplant cattleyas

Spreading

Cattleya is native to South and Central America : Mexico, Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil.

Cattleya mossiae is the national flower of Venezuela, Cattleya trianae is the national flower of Colombia.

They are found at altitudes from 0 to 3050 meters above sea level.

In Brazil, mainly two-leaf one leaf are more common .

They settle mainly near bodies of water on the crowns of trees.

Lithophytes are the most sun-loving representatives, as they are not protected from direct sun.

The climate is predominantly humid, hot, with alternating wet and dry seasons.

Daytime temperatures are always + 30 °C, and night temperatures are 12-24 °C.

Due to the strong night cooling, even during a period of drought, abundant dew falls, condensing on the roots of the orchid.

How to care for a flower?

Important points in caring for a Cattleya orchid are watering and fertilizing.

Watering

Cattleya roots should dry out completely between waterings. Therefore, it is enough to place the pot once every 5-7 days for 30-45 minutes in a container with water at room temperature, which should not touch the leaves and pseudobulbs. Watering frequency is adjusted depending on the time of year and weather. From the moment the peduncle appears, the orchid needs more water.

Cattleyas, like any inhabitants of the tropics, love water very much, but only warm and soft

The plant also needs regular washing of the substrate (5-10 minutes under running warm water every month). This prevents soil salinization. Drops of water that fall on the leaves during the process are wiped off as quickly as possible.

Fertilizer application

Cattleyas need feeding most of all at the beginning of the active growing season. Use special products for orchids or universal fertilizers for flowering indoor plants in the minimum dosage (a quarter of the recommended). Add fertilizer to your watering water weekly. If it is not specifically intended for orchids, before doing this, soak the flower for 1–1.5 hours in plain water.

When pseudobulbs stop growing, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is stopped. From the moment the peduncle is formed until the beginning of flowering, cattleyas are fed with products with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

You need to know exactly when and what kind of feeding the Cattleya orchid needs

Rest period

The dormant period for most orchids occurs in late autumn and winter. “Resting” cattleyas are watered approximately once every 10–14 days, no fertilizing is applied, and showering is stopped. Diffused light and keeping it in a cool room are important.

The lower the temperature, the worse the roots absorb water. But you also can’t let the pseudobulbs dry out and shrivel.

It is advisable to move the resting cattleya closer to the window - the winter sun is not so active

Bloom

It is immediately worth noting that only adult orchids bloom. Therefore, the purchased flower must have at least 4 pseudobulbs, shiny leaves of an even tone, smooth thick roots and remnants of last year’s flower stalks. Ideally, you need to buy a blooming orchid.

It is easiest to achieve flowering from hybrid cattleyas from the Potinara group of varieties or miniature two-leaved species. They often bloom not once, but 2-3 times a year. The most capricious are large-flowered orchids that do not have a precisely defined flowering period. About 4 months pass from the formation of a flower bud to the appearance of a peduncle. You can “help” the plant a little by cutting off the top of the “case” in which the buds are hidden. To prolong flowering as much as possible, placing the plant with its buds in full bloom and gaining a rich tone in light partial shade.

After the petals fall, cut the peduncle slightly diagonally, leaving a “stump” 1–2 cm high. Sprinkle the cut with wood ash, colloidal sulfur, and lubricate it with brilliant green or iodine. Observe the flower for a while to make sure there are no signs of rot.

Video: how to make a Cattleya orchid bloom

Reproduction

Cattleyas are propagated vegetatively. They are propagated by seeds only by specialists in laboratory or greenhouse conditions. At home, flower growers obtain new specimens by dividing an adult orchid.

In the photo: Cattleya breeding

Only a large specimen with at least 4 pseudobulbs is suitable for reproduction. Before flowering begins, the rhizome must be divided into parts with a sharp, disinfected knife, each of which should have 1 bulb. The sections are sprinkled with charcoal powder. The parts are planted in separate pots.

Table: how the Cattleya orchid reacts to the grower’s mistakes

The Cattleya orchid reacts to unsuitable conditions and care by deteriorating its appearance.

How to buy a healthy plant?

Cattleya is rightfully considered the queen of orchids . Bright, tall - like a queen, she towers on the store shelves above her brothers. The wide variety of colors is eye-catching.

But in order for the plant to take root in a new place after purchase, you need to choose it correctly .

When buying a cattleya, you need to pay attention to the condition of all parts of the plant:

1. Roots. They must be well developed. When pressed - dense. Soft and flabby indicate improper care .
2. Listyev. Like the rhizomes, they should be dense and elastic, without damage or sticky coating. A very dark shade of leaves indicates a lack of light. If they resemble an accordion, the air is too dry for them. The spots warn of insect infestation .
3. Tsvetonosov. Pay attention to specimens that have both open flowers and buds on the peduncle. Flowers should be brightly colored and without signs of wilting.

Table: diseases and pests of the Cattleya orchid

What diseases and pests will you have to fight when growing cattleyas - photo

Root rot completely destroys the orchid's root system

Leaves and pseudobulbs affected by gray rot seem to become wet from the inside

There are no folk remedies or chemicals that destroy the mosaic disease virus yet

Simultaneously with the appearance of the mealybug, the orchid leaves become sticky

The durable shell of the scale insect protects it from many insecticides and any folk remedies

Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves are signs of thrips.

Location and lighting

In this matter, Cattleyas are also not uniform: some species grow on the tops of trees or on stones in open places; others prefer to settle in dense crowns.

But this type of orchid is still considered very light-loving: some need bright, but diffused light, others can tolerate bright direct sun.

In our latitudes, even for Cattleyas growing in diffused light, southern windows are ideal, especially in winter. With the beginning of spring, so that they do not get burned, they can be moved to south-eastern, south-western or western window sills, or shaded. Lithophytes can be left in the south, but moved away from the glass.

South-eastern, south-western and western windows are also suitable for growing Cattleyas, especially in the spring and summer. But in winter it will be better to illuminate them.

Northern, northwestern or eastern windows are not suitable for growing cattleya orchids. Even with powerful additional lighting, some types of these orchids will not bloom. Therefore, when choosing an orchid, you need to take into account its light preferences.

How to save an orchid that has lost its roots - secrets of resuscitation

Immerse the bases of the pseudobulbs in water at room temperature for 2 hours every day. When growth buds appear, stop the procedure. Plant an orchid that has grown at least 3 roots 5–6 cm long in a mixture of finely chopped moss and pine bark with pieces of charcoal. The pot should be tall and narrow. The easiest time to “save” a plant is from early spring to mid-autumn. At this time, there is suitable lighting and a fairly high temperature.

Do not rush to throw away a Cattleya orchid that has lost its roots

You can place the damaged Cattleya orchid in a mini-greenhouse, providing a temperature of about 25 ºС and bright, diffused light. A layer of drainage is placed on the bottom, and crushed sphagnum moss is placed on top.

Some gardeners recommend “shock therapy”. Leave the plant without watering or spraying for several weeks. In search of moisture, it should theoretically send out roots.

Is it a poisonous plant or not?

Orchids are one of the most popular plants in cooking, folk medicine and cosmetology. There are only a few varieties of orchids that are not beneficial and can even cause harm. These include exclusively tropical varieties:

• Wanda.
• Cymbidium.
• Sarcochymus.

The Cattleya orchid is considered a delicate and fragile beauty that will decorate a home or garden. It is completely harmless and will delight you with a pleasant aroma and bright colors.

How does a flower reproduce?

At home, the only way to get a new Cattleya orchid is by dividing an adult plant. The procedure is carried out simultaneously with the transplant; the selected specimen must have at least six pseudobulbs.

The division of the Cattleya orchid is carried out in such a way as to cause minimal damage to the plant.

1. Remove the flower from the pot and place the earthen ball in a container of water for half an hour.
2. Carefully rinse the substrate, untangle the roots (directly in water), cut off the dried and rotted ones.
3. Using a sharp knife, divide the rhizome so that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs and a growing point. Be sure to disinfect the tool before use and sprinkle the cuts made with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, activated carbon powder, or at least cinnamon.
4. Plant the plants in small pots, preferably transparent. This makes it easier to notice the development of rot in time. A drainage layer is required. The substrate is moss and pieces of bark.
5. Place in partial shade for 3-4 days, do not water. Ensure the temperature is about 25ºC and free of drafts. Then care is usual.

Cattleya division process

Before removing the orchid from the pot, it needs to be soaked in a zircon solution or HB-101 for 30-40 minutes. Next, remove the plant from the container.

Some of the roots have rotted, there are several dry tubers. We divide the root ball, preferably under running water, freeing Cattleya from the old substrate. Use scissors to trim off dead soft roots.

Advice! If the pseudobulb is more than 10, then it would be better to first cut the plant into parts with pruning shears so that each has at least 3 tubers

Before covering the sections with iodine, brilliant green or fucorcin, you must wait 10-15 minutes. If they remain green, process and dry for an hour.

If the sections have changed color or there is a crimson rim around the rhizome, this is a signal that the plant is sick. The disease can affect the entire orchid or so far only a separate area.

Use a knife or scalpel to cut off 2-3 mm of the rhizome and wait for the reaction. If the darkening process continues, you need to cut further. You may have to remove the entire tube. When you are sure that the cut remains green within 10-15 minutes, treat it with iodine, brilliant green or fucorcin.

Check the roots, cut off rotten ones, treat with charcoal or cinnamon.

History of origin

Cattleya is a purely tropical plant. These flowers grow in nature on rocks and trees. Their usually quite large flowers retain their freshness for a long time. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, large-flowered drops began to grow en masse to decorate the corsages of ballroom and evening events. This tradition is still alive, especially in the United States.

The genus was named after W. Catley, the owner of the first collection of orchids in England. It was he who first noticed Cattleya labiata in 1818, an orchid that became the culprit of the “orchid fever” in the horticultural world.

What is a "rest period"

When studying information about orchids, you can come across such a concept as a “rest period”; they also say that Cattleya sleeps. This is caused, first of all, by the fact that the intensity of sunlight decreases to such values ​​when it is not enough for photosynthesis.

Each Cattleya orchid has its own light threshold. At 30,000 Lux, some orchids fall asleep, others continue to grow.

In addition, the rainy season ends, the orchid receives less water, and the air temperature drops. All physiological processes freeze and the orchid begins to feed on substances accumulated in the pseudobulbs.

It is very important not to destroy the orchid during this period. It is necessary to adapt to its annual cycle. That is, when the plant falls asleep, they try to place it in a cool, sunny place and practically stop watering it.

Important Details

Cattleya orchid without roots.

Improper orchid care (poor lighting, low temperature, high humidity), fungal, bacterial infections, old age - lead to lost roots. In this case, a procedure called Cattleya resuscitation is performed. During this process, the most favorable conditions are created in which new roots and root systems develop.

Important! New roots, even if all resuscitation conditions are met, will appear only from new shoots.

New shoots, in turn, appear only from specific buds. Therefore, the first thing that is important to do for the accuracy and success of the procedure is to find the right kidneys.

Important! It is necessary to check and make sure that the kidneys are alive.