Orchids in expanded clay: planting, reviews

Expanded clay is most often used in construction. It retains heat well, absorbs noise, and has a number of attractive characteristics. This is a derived material from clay that has been subjected to heat treatment.

Quite often it is used by gardeners, gardeners and home plant growers. Plants are rooted and revived on it. Orchids grow well on the substrate. What characteristics does it have? How to grow an orchid on expanded clay?

Preparation

In order for the planting to be successful and the orchid to take root in a new place, you need to purchase everything you need in advance, and you should start with choosing a container.

Choosing the right container

It is better to use a glass container as a pot; it is more stable than plastic, and it looks more beautiful.
In addition, glass does not have a porous structure, which prevents root ingrowth. The shape can be different, but round is undesirable, since if you need to replant the plant, pulling out the root system without damaging it will be problematic. The round flask will have to be broken. For children and orchids with small roots, all kinds of glasses, glasses and even beer mugs are suitable, it all depends on your imagination or what you have on hand. Larger plants need a large capacity: multi-liter vases or even small aquariums in which several flowers can be planted at the same time. But you shouldn’t do this right away; it makes more sense to test a closed system on one plant.

Reference! You should choose a transparent vessel, this makes it easier to control the water level and observe what is happening inside.

You can find out more about orchid pots here.

Substrate

The substrate for planting in a closed container consists of several components that cannot be mixed, but must be laid in layers:

expanded clay;
sphagnum moss;
bark or substrate for orchids;
charcoal.

All this is sold in a flower shop, but bark and moss can be collected in the forest, if there is one nearby. Pieces of bark are preferably large, so that moist air can “walk” freely between them, and without traces of mold; they can also be successfully replaced with cones.

There is no need to boil, calcinate or disinfect anything; everything is poured into the container directly from the bags. It is advisable to purchase sphagnum moss alive, or when purchasing, choose one that has at least small green twigs; they will then come to life and the moss will grow.

You can find out more about soil for orchids here.

Orchid lovers may also like the following articles:

about the Thai orchid;
about growing a flower from seeds at home.

The most popular brands of ready-made substrate

Specialized stores have a fairly large selection of soil mixtures for orchids. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the composition, size of the bark and the name of the brand. Manufacturers that have earned the popularity of flower growers thanks to their quality products are “Ceoflora”, “Orchiata”, “Fasco”, “Ceramis” and others.

For a review of the best Russian and foreign manufacturers of soil for orchids with photos, see here.

Caring for an orchid in expanded clay

Growing an orchid in expanded clay requires less attention from plant owners - this is the opinion of orchid growers with experience in using expanded clay substrate.

Watering

In hot summer weather, water is constantly poured into the container; it is undesirable to allow it to dry for too long. It is noteworthy that after watering, after 2 hours, the upper granules are already dry, but at this time the roots of the orchid, even under the rhizome, remain moist and greenish. When they turn white, it's time to rehydrate the pot - about a couple times a week in the summer, when the weather is especially hot.

Some orchid growers also use immersion watering with this growing method, without leaving water at the bottom of the pot. The granules are saturated with moisture and release it to the roots for a long time, depending on the ambient temperature - longer in cool rooms, faster in warm rooms.

A certain problem is created by a sharp change in temperature in the apartment, when you should very quickly drain the water from the pot and dry the roots.

Feeding

An orchid in expanded clay is fed in much smaller quantities than when grown in bark. Fertilizers are dissolved in irrigation water in doses reduced by four or even six times those recommended by the manufacturer and indicated on the packaging.

Regarding the frequency of fertilizers, opinions of orchid growers differ, but the majority feed plants grown in expanded clay no more than once every 2 weeks. Some orchid owners add fertilizers through watering - once they moisten with clean water, the next time with fertilizers, and they also alternate the fertilizers themselves - mineral with organic.

During long-term use, it is recommended to wash the expanded clay substrate with distilled water to get rid of its salinity.

What should be the substrate for an orchid?

As a rule, few people know how to plant an orchid correctly. This plant requires a certain substrate. It is an epiphyte, that is, in the wild it lives off other plants. The orchid does not grow in the ground, but on tree trunks, from where it obtains a sufficient amount of nutrients, and receives moisture from rain.

Phalaenopsis orchid - home care

To grow a plant at home, you should pay special attention to the soil for it. It must meet certain standards: be nutritious, loose, moisture-absorbing.

Once every 2-3 years, the flower must be replanted, since the old substrate has time to deplete by this time.

Is earth or expanded clay suitable?

Growing an orchid in pure expanded clay is impossible, since this material can only be used as drainage. At the same time, gardeners do not like it, since the porous structure of this ingredient retains moisture and also accumulates salts, which causes the substrate to become salinized. This reduces the quality of the soil.

Note! Expanded clay can, when dry, begin to suck moisture from the roots of the plant. This can negatively affect the condition of the orchid, since it loses some of its beneficial components

The soil itself is also not a good option, since it does not have the qualities that orchids require to ensure normal life. It is necessary to add other components to it: sphagnum moss, tree bark, coal, etc.

Hydrogel

You can also grow orchids in hydrogel. This polymer material is distinguished by the fact that it absorbs moisture and then gradually releases it to the plant.

If you buy hydrogel balls, they look relatively nice from the outside. But on the other hand, this is impractical - the flower does not receive enough oxygen.

Why is it necessary to replant an orchid?

Replanting an orchid, especially immediately after acquisition, remains one of the most important measures for caring for it. Large woody elements of the substrate in which the flower grows may contain mold, spores of fungal diseases, viruses and parasites.

Conscientious flower shop sellers treat the substrate with special solutions to eliminate possible pests and pathogens, but not everyone does this.

Using a substrate contaminated with fungal spores leads to dire consequences

If the gardener already has other orchids, then a new one purchased with untreated soil can cause diseases in the entire group of flowers. To eliminate possible consequences, the new plant must be isolated from the rest for a period of up to one month or until the end of the active flowering phase. In this case, you need to monitor the condition of the substrate daily. If the slightest signs of rotting, fungus, changes in the color and structure of leaves, parasites and their metabolic products are detected, therapeutic and preventive measures should be taken immediately. One of these measures is transplantation, which involves disinfection and change of substrate.

In addition, there are a number of certain conditions and signs that indicate the need to relocate an orchid:

1–1.5 years have passed since purchasing the plant;
the root system is strongly constrained by the walls of the pot and pushes the plant out;
the substrate retains moisture for a long time and has signs of decomposition and rotting;
the flower is affected by disease or pests and requires resuscitation measures.

In addition, a plant older than two years needs to be replanted every 2–3 years.

Features of the technique

Most orchids are epiphytes that live in a “suspended” state. Clinging to the bark of trees with aerial roots, they receive moisture from the air or from streams of rainwater. They draw useful substances from dying layers and rotted leaves.

It is impossible to recreate a tropical climate in a residential area, but certain conditions can be brought closer to natural ones. At the same time, the presence of a substrate is not the most important thing when keeping an orchid. It is much more important to ensure uniform moisture, nutrition and air exchange of the roots.

There are many cultivation methods - in bark, on blocks, in hydroponics and even with bare roots in a glass pot.

The last option is not known to many, but it is very interesting, so it is worth paying special attention to it

How to choose a glass vase

Wide, stable vessels of spherical and cylindrical shape are preferred for placing orchids. Vases in the shape of a cube or glass are suitable. You can use double planters, in which the inside contains holes for drainage.

Definitely won't fit:

narrow, cylindrical or rectangular containers - the roots will be cramped in them;
pots that are too high - the plant “sinks” in them along with the leaves and flower stalks.

Before buying a vase, imagine your orchid inside: is there enough space for roots and how will the leaves be arranged? Consider the possibility of securing the plant in a vertical position.

What varieties are suitable

Among orchids, species that do not require a dry and cool dormant period or have massive roots are better suited for cultivation in vases.

The choice of variety depends on the planting method:

Into the water - phalaenopsis and vanda.
Expanded clay includes phalaenopsis, dendrobium, vanda, cattleya, oncidium, coelogina, phragmipedium.
In perlite - orchids with thin roots - dendrobium, oncidium, cattleya.
In large diatomite - vanda; in the middle - phalaenopsis, dendrobium, slippers.

Possible care problems

In case of improperly organized watering, the roots of orchids in a closed system rot, and the root collar also suffers from the same care error.

A plant with a rotten root system is removed from the substrate and the roots are washed well. Remove the rotted ones, clean the damaged areas of the velamen and dry well for 3–5 days. The contents of the flower container are either changed or washed and dried.

If you plan to continue growing the orchid in a closed system, plant it back in the glass pot and review the watering regime. The plant, which is subsequently planted in an open system, is treated with an antifungal agent, for example phytosporin

Another problem that orchid growers often talk about is the infestation of small midges. The reason is the dampness of the substrate. Usually, after a good drying - a significant break between waterings - the insects disappear on their own; sometimes the surface of the moss is sprinkled with dry mustard powder.

Green plaque on the inner walls of the container spoils the aesthetic appearance of the entire flower, but it is almost impossible to fight it.

Green plaque on the inner walls of the pot

How to prepare?

To grow orchids, expanded clay with a fraction of 10-20 mm is used. Flower resuscitation and rooting are carried out on 5-10 mm gravel. It is denser, fills almost all voids, and holds the plant well. For greater density, the substrate is mixed with vermiculite. The substrate must be prepared.

It is poured into a large container with water. You have to be careful, the material is very dusty.
The material is kept for 3 days. The granules should not only be well saturated, but also release the salts they contain.
The material is washed well, filled with distilled water, and left for a day. Then, check for acidity. Normally the pH should be neutral.
The granules are dried and placed in a container.

If you plan to use expanded clay immediately, then you do not need to dry it. Plants are planted on damp material or a substrate is used to develop the root system of seedlings.

If the pH analysis shows increased acidity, then baking soda ash can be added to the solution with expanded clay. Hydroponic growers often use PH DOWN from GHE.

Advantages and disadvantages

The phrase “orchid in expanded clay” sounds somewhat contradictory. It is difficult to imagine a combination of a delicate flower and a hard, even rough building material. But in reality, everything turns out not so bad. In any case, amateur flower growers note the following:

moisture is retained excellently;
its flow from top to bottom does not cause problems;
you can reduce the frequency of watering;
the risk of “flooding” the plant is practically eliminated;
expanded clay will not decompose, nor will it rot (that is, replacements will be required less frequently);
the interval between flower transplants increases.

However, he also has weaknesses. Let's mention them:

expanded clay is very heavy (which makes the container heavier when growing large plants);
this substance works well at home, but is of little use for greenhouses;
as soon as you tilt the pot a little, the filler begins to spill out;
It is very difficult to place and firmly fix the support for the orchid.

What kind of expanded clay are used to grow orchids?

Expanded clay for planting orchids requires a special one, more often it is called expanded clay substrate. To make it, they use environmentally friendly clay, free of salts, baked in an oven. Granules with a circumference of 8 to 16 mm are formed, which are thoroughly washed before packaging. Expanded clay substrate from Dutch manufacturers has proven itself well, for example, Plagron Euro pebbles, which has a number of advantages:

water is well retained and carried from the bottom layer to the top, and the roots are well supplied with air;
watering is carried out less frequently and overflow is practically impossible;
expanded clay lasts longer because it does not decompose and is not susceptible to putrefactive processes;
Plant replanting is done less frequently.

The disadvantages of expanded clay substrate include the following:

not always suitable for large plants - makes the pot heavier;
used for growing orchids at home, but does not suit greenhouse owners;
at the slightest tilt the flower container spills out of it;
The supporting support for the orchid is poorly strengthened.

Taking into account all the positive and negative aspects, expanded clay is, however, increasingly used by orchid owners as a substrate, replacing traditional pine bark.

Selection of capacity

Glass or plastic containers are most often used as containers for orchids in an autonomous system. The first option is more preferable due to its increased stability and more attractive appearance. Glass also does not have a porous structure, which makes it possible to prevent ingrown roots. Plastic vessels are attractive because, if necessary, you can make holes in them with some kind of hot metal tip in the event that this method turns out to be unsuitable for the plant.

The shape of the container can be very different, but a round one is least suitable, since it is difficult to remove rooted plants from such a container. The shape should also be either leveled or one where the edges widen upward. Constricted vessels make it difficult to evaporate moisture from the soil surface. In warm conditions this is an advantage, but as the temperature drops, excess moisture will provoke the development of fungal diseases.

The size of the container varies depending on the size of the plant. The largest specimens are planted in large vases or aquariums. It is practiced to grow several large orchids at once in a large container, but at first you should still place the plants separately in a closed system.

If possible, choose a transparent container. It is easier to control growth processes and fluid levels there.

Kinds

Expanded clay

A lightweight, porous building material obtained from clay shale . Expanded clay may have:

Various shapes and fractions;
Inert;
Durable;
And very accessible.

Many experts use expanded clay for orchids.

These positive qualities have made expanded clay the most popular material for drainage in floriculture. It has no significant negative properties.

Styrofoam

Roughly speaking, it is a foamed polymer . Foam has:

A light weight;
Non-toxic;
Does not create favorable conditions for the development of algae and fungi.

From a large piece of polystyrene foam you can obtain fragments of the size required in a particular case. it degrades over time when exposed to sunlight . Looks untidy in a pot. In general, it is inferior to expanded clay in terms of durability and practicality.

River pebbles, pebbles

This material is practical on a par with expanded clay . Heavy weight will prevent accidental knocking over of a large, sprawling plant.

Instead of expanded clay, you can use pebbles or pebbles.

Also pebbles:

Very decorative;
And it has a very attractive appearance, which will help create an accent in a potted plant.

Advice! Make sure that the rock you collect from the river does not contain lime. This is very easy to check - drop vinegar on the surface of the fragment. Hissing and the appearance of foam indicates that the rock contains calcium carbonate, which is unacceptable.

Crushed stone, pieces of brick

Brick fragments are quite useful materials for drainage if you don’t have expanded clay or pebbles at hand. The positive side is that crushed stone and brick can be found in the city on the street or at any construction site/abandoned site, that is, you can get it yourself without financial expenses. A negative property is the low decorativeness of the material.

Crushed stone consists of limestone and contains calcium carbonates, which is unacceptable.

Shells

A poorly applicable material, since the shells primarily consist of limestone , which is unacceptable for the reasons stated above. Shells can also be randomly placed with the inside facing up and obstruct the flow of water.

Also, decorating pots with epiphytes with shells of underwater creatures, especially marine ones, is at least absurd from an aesthetic point of view .

Reanimation of an orchid in expanded clay

Many people are interested in whether expanded clay is needed for orchids and, if so, why. The answer is simple: thanks to it you can revive culture:

Before planting, remove all rotten areas from the plant’s root system.
If there are black spots near the growth points, they are treated.
The cut areas also need to be processed. Foundationazole and charcoal are used for this.
The root system is placed in a rooter for some time. Sent to dry (but should not be exposed to direct sunlight).
Planted in a prepared pot, you will also need to use a special support.

After this, favorable climatic conditions are created.

Planting in one pot: pros and cons

So is it possible to plant several orchids in one pot? The practice of planting a group of flowers in one container has existed for a long time; many people find it successful and use it successfully.

Proponents argue this by asking why plants shouldn't grow together if they:

have the same conditions of detention and care;
bloom almost simultaneously;
occupy a smaller area;
retain moisture in the soil and air longer;
like some closeness of roots;
having fallen ill, there is an equal risk of infecting separately growing orchids standing nearby;
help reduce cash costs for purchasing pots, substrate and other related materials.

Orchids in a common container are lush, beautiful and unusual. And space is saved and the effect is stunning!

Opponents of group plantings are convinced that gardeners must be prepared for:

difficulties with replanting due to the close intertwining of roots;
the likelihood of flooding the roots, since it is easier to monitor their drying one by one;
high risk of infection of flowers if one of them becomes infected.

In the natural environment, these exotic beauties, growing together does not prevent them from developing normally and blooming profusely.

You can grow several hybrid orchids in a common substrate at home. Of course, certain conditions and requirements must be taken into account

Does the plant need it?

To date, there is no clear answer on this matter. Some gardeners believe that drainage is not needed, it is of no benefit. Epiphytic varieties of orchids are air plants, the root system is on the surface. The drainage layer, on the contrary, retains moisture, preventing full air circulation.

Opponents respond by saying drainage is important. Terrestrial varieties of orchids, which prefer a soil mixture, do not tolerate the accumulation of excess liquid in the soil. Also, when watering orchids, the pot is buried in a container of water. The drainage layer helps eliminate unnecessary moisture and prevents the roots from soaking up excess liquid. Which side to choose is a purely individual decision.

Features of transplantation: analysis of situations

Situations when it is necessary to separate the baby from the mother plant and replant it deserve special attention. In some cases, phalaenopsis can be planted not in the usual pot, but on a block or even in hydrogel balls. Let's consider these situations in detail.

Transplanting phalaenopsis babies

The formation of babies on phalaenopsis usually occurs from a dormant bud on the peduncle, and sometimes on the trunk. Such a shoot can be separated from the main plant when its roots, formed in the amount of 2-3 pieces, reach 4-5 cm.

Rules for separating and transplanting baby phalaenopsis:

If the shoot is formed on the flower shoot, then it is cut off in such a way that fragments of the peduncle of 1-1.5 cm remain on the sides.
The baby, formed at the base, is cut off at the point of attachment to the mother plant.
After separating the cut sites on both the shoot and the main plant, they are treated with charcoal or activated carbon powder. In this state, the baby is left for 30-40 minutes to dry all the cut fragments.
It is recommended to plant baby phalaenopsis in a substrate consisting of fine bark, charcoal and sphagnum moss.
The planting container should be small; a plastic cup will do.
You need to pour expanded clay onto the bottom, then lay out a layer of bark and a little sphagnum.
After this, place the baby in the center of the pot and fill the inter-root space with substrate. You can lay a layer of moss on the surface of the soil.

You can water the transplanted phalaenopsis baby on the third day.

Orchid on a block

One of the ways to plant an orchid that is close to its natural growing conditions is to place it on a block.

The bark, the size of which is slightly larger than the size of the plant’s root system, is chosen as the base. You can purchase a block for planting in specialized flower shops or make it yourself

It is important that the base is not tarry or damaged by various insects

How to properly transplant a phalaenopsis orchid onto a block? The roots of the phalaenopsis are first “wrapped” in damp sphagnum moss, then in this form the plant is secured to a block using ordinary threads or fishing line. You should attach it carefully, without excessively squeezing the roots.

Over time, the roots will independently weave around the block and will be securely fixed in a natural way.

This planting method requires regular spraying of the moss and air around the plant to avoid drying out the roots. You can also moisten the flower by immersing the block a couple of centimeters in a container of water.

Transplantation into hydrogel balls: pros and cons

Often in the photo you can see phalaenopsis planted in hydrogel balls.

It is undesirable to use gel “substrate” for orchid plants on an ongoing basis due to its artificiality

Advantages of hydrogel:

high ability to absorb and then release moisture to the plant or atmosphere;
looks beautiful as a filler.

Disadvantages of hydrogel beads:

deprived of substances necessary for phalaenopsis;
Over time, they begin to mold or “bloom” from prolonged exposure to the sun.

Will an orchid grow in hydrogel? Not for long. Hydrogel is usually used only when it is necessary to reanimate a flower, for example, when there is a loss of leaf turgor. In this case, the plant is placed in aqua soil filled with water. It is left in this state for a couple of hours, after which the orchid is planted in the usual way.

Features of care

In order for a flower to live and develop well in a closed system, it needs to be properly cared for throughout its entire life.

The main sign that watering is necessary will be the disappearance of condensation on the inner walls of the vessel and a change in the color of the roots. They will turn from green to light gray.

Two watering methods:

Using immersion, water is poured into a container so that only the root collar remains outside of watering. Water for 15-20 minutes, after which the water is drained by tilting the container and holding the soil with your hand;
It consists in the fact that water is constantly poured into containers at the level of expanded clay and is not drained after watering. This method requires timely addition of water when it evaporates.

IMPORTANT! When choosing a watering method, the gardener focuses on the temperature in the room where the orchid grows. Since at low temperatures, constantly pouring water can help. rotting of the root system

rotting of the root system

The main difference is more rare feeding with small doses of fertilizers. This is explained by the fact that all fertilizers poured into the container with the plant remain there. Therefore, the dose is reduced by 10 times so as not to burn the root system of the plant.

And the regime is reduced several times, alternating fertilizers with irrigation with ordinary water.

In a closed system, fertilizing is done less frequently and in lower concentrations.

Possible problems

Sometimes, if not properly cared for, an orchid may die. To prevent this from happening, you must avoid mistakes in caring for the plant:

If the plant is watered with cold water or too often, the result will be rotting of the root mass - the orchid is removed from the container and the roots are treated. After complete drying, after 5 days they are planted in their original place;
From frequent watering, small white midges sometimes appear in the bark. In this case, watering is reduced, drying the soil. After complete drying, the midges disappear;
It is impossible to fight green algae, which eventually appears on the inner walls of the pot. If there are too many of them, the flower and soil are removed, and the container is washed and sterilized. After this, it is suitable for planting.

Comfort conditions for orchids without soil:

A plastic or glass vessel in which the entire root system is placed;
The roots are not damaged by fungal diseases;
No rotting;
The container has constant humidity without sudden temperature changes.

Watering the plant is carried out as follows:

Water is poured into half the container, but so that it does not reach the stem of the plant. And the orchid stands in the water for 2 days;
After which the water is drained from the glass or plastic vase;
For the next 3-5 days, the flower stands and dries its root system.

At the time of watering, fertilizer occurs, which is produced 2 times a month at the time of plant growth.

Fertilizer is necessary because the plant has nowhere to get nutrients from. Aqueous solutions that are easy to dilute to the desired concentration have proven themselves to be effective. But we must remember that any fertilizing should be applied only after watering to wet roots.

The frequency of fertilizing does not differ from the basic care of a plant planted in the bark. That is:

In summer 2 times a month;
1 time in winter (if they are not blooming at this moment).

Transfer

Replanting is practically not necessary when cultivating the plant in this way. If after 2-4 years the root mass does not fit into the container, simply select a new one - higher and wider, and move the orchid there.

Most often, replanting an orchid without soil is not required.

Therefore, the roots are not injured during transplantation.

The importance of making the right choice

Important criteria for a properly selected substrate for orchids: quality and composition. Compliance with the requirements ensures harmonious development, growth and systematic flowering.

Today, every flower shop offers a ready-made mixture developed specifically for this type of plant. But not every finished product can be absolutely beneficial for your flower, so be careful when choosing it.

Points to pay attention to:

The bark pieces are solid, strong, without visible damage. Size – up to 3 cm each

It is important that they do not crumble in your hands. The pieces of charcoal should not be larger than 2 cm and should not crumble. Moss should not be wet. A quality component – well dried and disinfected. If the substrate looks like a hard earthen lump, such a product is considered to be of poor quality. There should be no soil in the substrate, as it will accumulate moisture, harden and deprive the mixture of its ability to transmit oxygen. The substrate should be free of dust and moldy pieces.

Drainage for orchids

Let's learn more about drainage for orchids. A drainage layer or drainage is a layer of inert, water-permeable material that is placed on the bottom of a pot or other container with a plant to quickly drain excess water during watering.

Orchids do not always need drainage.

Various materials can act as drainage, such as:

Pebbles;
Or shards;
Expanded clay is most often used.

Does an orchid need drainage? Based on the above definition, drainage is used when the pot is filled with a fine-grained substrate. Orchids are usually planted in a substrate based on tree bark. Such mixtures, as a rule, consist of components of a large fraction, which allows the substrate to pass air and water quite freely.

However, each composition of the mixture can be different from each other, and if we plant Phalaenopsis exclusively in coarse pine bark, then the presence of drainage here is absolutely useless, since the substrate easily allows all the water to pass through, so such pots are often soaked in basins with water rather than watered above.

It’s another matter if the orchid is terrestrial - it requires a heavier, nutritious substrate, therefore, the presence of a drainage layer is quite justified, since it will facilitate the outflow of excess water from the pot after watering.

Therefore, the answer to the question: “Do orchids need drainage?” is ambiguous and relative, it depends on what kind of substrate and pot are used :

Relatively heavy, in a pot with solid walls or a flask (drainage is needed);
Or light, in a perforated pot with holes (no drainage needed).

Advice! Before use, test the purchased or home-prepared mixture for water passage. Based on your observations, draw conclusions about the need for a drainage layer in the plant pot. Always use a pot with a hole in the bottom. There is no need to make holes in the pots.

In some cases, if transparent pots, glass vases or flasks are used, the drainage layer may consist of multi-colored pebbles and serve a purely decorative function without providing any practical benefit.

You can also observe in flower shops that orchids have no drainage . This fact is also proof that orchids thrive without drainage.

What can be used as a drainage layer?

The most effective components are the following:

Expanded clay. One of the most common options. Does not contain toxins. Expanded clay allows water and air to pass through well, is lightweight and environmentally friendly. The material absorbs water and is also able to regulate water balance. Expanded clay is produced in different fractions. The size of the granules is selected depending on the size of the pot and root system

Please note that when you regularly fertilize your orchid, salt accumulates in the expanded clay. Therefore, the material should be washed regularly

Otherwise, the salts will burn the root system of the crop.

Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam. Small parts are used as soil loosener, and large parts are used as drainage. The material is not susceptible to rotting and disease. Polystyrene foam does not absorb water. The component also protects the roots from hypothermia. But it has one drawback - plant roots can grow into it.

River stones or pebbles. The main useful properties are water permeability and lightness. The main disadvantage is the inability to conduct heat. Therefore, it is recommended to place the orchid pot on the sunny side. In addition, pebbles and stones make the pot heavy.

Crushed stone and brick chips. You need to choose small pieces, preferably round in shape. This is necessary so that the edges do not damage the orchid rhizomes.

What can you use?

The following are often used as a drainage layer: expanded clay granules, crushed stone, pebbles, small pebbles, coarse sand, polystyrene foam, gravel, perlite, vermiculite and other materials. The most effective include:

River pebbles, pebbles

They are often used due to their ease of availability.
Pros: Hygroscopic, environmentally friendly, durable.

Cons: Pebbles make flower pots heavier. However, this disadvantage can be turned into an advantage if a lightweight flower pot is used. Another disadvantage is high thermal conductivity.

If a pot with pebbles is placed on a cold surface, the root system can become overcooled. As a preventive measure, river material should be washed.

Styrofoam

Recently it has become a popular drainage material.
Pros: Not susceptible to rot and mold, chemically inert, sterile. I would especially like to note that polystyrene foam does not absorb or release water.

Cons: Lightweight, the ability of roots to grow through the foam.

We recommend watching a video about using polystyrene foam for orchid drainage:

Expanded clay

Is it possible to plant an orchid in expanded clay drainage?
This raw material has wide application. The material consists of granules of different diameters. Made by firing clay. Expanded clay is lightweight, non-toxic, durable, and has a service life of 5-6 years. Pros: The material has the ability to absorb moisture and, if necessary, release it back.

Disadvantages: With frequent feeding, salts can accumulate in the pores of expanded clay, and if you do not notice this in time and do not wash it along with the plant, you will get a burn to the roots.

We recommend watching a video about the pros and cons of growing orchids in expanded clay drainage:

Broken brick, crushed stone

It is recommended to use small pieces with smooth edges so that they do not damage the orchid’s root system.
Pros: They have strength, hygroscopicity, significant weight.

Cons: Doesn't hold heat well enough.

Red brick, like expanded clay, is made from clay. Therefore, if it is not possible to buy expanded clay, you can use crushed bricks.

Planting several orchids in one pot

How to propagate an orchid at home: peduncle and other options

Some gardeners do not know how to plant several orchids in one pot.

The need for this may arise for certain reasons:

if you want to pay tribute to aesthetics and watch a large bush bloom;
if the removal of a child from the mother leads to her death;
if there is simply no free space in the house.

But to implement this idea, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the growth of all plants. Due to the fault of the gardener, problems can arise: the disease of one plant can spread to others (as well as pests attack all flowers at once), the transplantation process is complicated, and when the roots rot, it becomes more difficult to diagnose.

If these factors have not discouraged the desire to plant several plants in one container, then this can be done according to the following scheme:

Pour the substrate into the pot to a third of its volume.
Place the plants, carefully spread the roots on the surface of the ground (this procedure requires two people, so that one of them subsequently holds the flowers).
Fill the remaining space with substrate.

Subsequently, it is recommended to take into account the conditions for caring for orchids so that they adapt faster.

Planting 2 orchids in 1 pot

Treatment of orchids before planting

Planting an orchid at home requires compliance with certain mandatory operations. First of all, it is recommended to monitor the condition of the roots, because if something is wrong with them, the flower may die in a short time. Therefore, transplanting into a new pot should be accompanied by treatment of the rhizome.

Blooming orchid

Determining the condition of the roots

A transparent pot allows you to determine the state of the flower’s rhizome. If the soil does not allow you to see them, you should navigate directly during transplantation. Determining whether the roots are healthy or not is not difficult:

green and silver colors make it clear that everything is fine with them;
if they are brown and look dried out, they are not healthy.

Unhealthy roots require certain manipulations - they need to be cured and protected, while normal ones simply need to be processed.

Attention! It is also worth taking a closer look at the aerial roots of the plant, as they signal that the orchid is not feeling well.

What to process

If there are dry or rotten roots, they need to be cut to the fresh part, but the cuts should not be left just like that - they require disinfection. Processing can be done by:

fungicidal solutions with the addition of copper;
iodine;
brilliant green;
activated carbon;
wood ash.

Many of the disinfectants can be found in your own first aid kit, and therefore there is no reason to worry.

Pruning Phalaenopsis Roots

How to carry out the procedure

Treatment can be carried out in several ways: by watering, spraying or immersing the pot in a solution. It is also recommended to disinfect the substrate - this can be done by mixing it with fungicidal powders.

Important! The chosen product plays a big role. It is worth giving preference to systemic drugs with a wide spectrum of action, since they can protect the plant from fungal diseases and pests

It is worth remembering that organic fungicides do not contain heavy metals, inorganic ones contain copper, and biological products treat the flower itself more carefully.

The orchid roots have rotted. 7 ways to grow orchid roots

The appearance of an orchid in your home is always a real holiday, but it happens that this holiday is overshadowed by the emergence of problems. After the orchid in the house, after some time we notice that the orchid begins to fade, problems with flowering and leaves appear. The reason most often lies in the roots . With improper care, very often, the root system begins to rot , and then the roots have to be removed.

And here the question arises: will your beauty survive and what to do with her. removed from an orchid is not a death sentence; it can be saved. An orchid can grow roots , and you can help it with this.

The orchid is particularly resilient. She is very strong and is able to recover even in the most seemingly deplorable situation, the main thing is to know the reason and what to do next. We will study this very issue today.

Causes of root rot in orchids

It is worth starting to study the problem with the cause or reasons that may result in root rot, which can destroy your orchid.

Reason No. 1. The first and also the main one is not watering the plant correctly. Often, in our efforts to please a beauty, we simply pour water on her, thinking that she simply desperately needs moisture. But not only flooding, but also underwatering can destroy the plant. If the orchid stands for a long time without watering, the roots will begin to dry and then, having received a dose of water, everything that has dried will begin to rot again.

Reason No. 2. Too high or low air temperature is another cause of rot. Even with good normalized watering, this reason may well arise. If the room is too hot (temperature above +25°C) it can cause the roots to naturally steam and begin to rot. Temperatures below +12°C will lead to the fact that after watering the moisture will evaporate much more slowly than necessary, which will again lead to the occurrence of root rot.

Reason No. 3. Insect pests are also often the cause of rotting of orchid roots. Parasites damage the shell of horses, which leads to rotting.

What healthy and diseased orchid roots look like

First of all, you must learn to distinguish healthy roots from damaged ones. Healthy roots are light green in color, but when dry they will have a silvery-white coating. They are elastic and smooth without stickiness.

Diseased roots are dark green in color and may feel slimy or sticky to the touch. They may also turn brown or yellow.

What to do if you find root rot in your orchid?

As soon as you suspect that something is wrong with the plant, the first thing to do is check the root system. If such a disaster has happened and you discover root rot, then you should immediately start taking action.

The first thing you need to do is get rid of the rot. Many people mistakenly cut off all the roots right away, but this should not be done. Just remove the rot or dried shell from the rod that is inside, but if it is already rotten, then cut it off too. You should always cut with a sharp and sterile object treated with alcohol. Then treat everything that was cut and the remaining whole rods with activated carbon powder or ground cinnamon.

Is the plant lost?

As I already wrote, orchids are very strong and tenacious plants. It is able to survive even in the complete absence of a root system, even when only leaves remain. Even if the foliage itself is in poor condition, it can still survive. It always makes sense to revive an orchid, because in many cases it is restored and continues to live and delight.

Orchid root extension

There are several ways to grow the root system of an orchid. But with each method you will definitely need a solution of succinic acid. In order to prepare it, you will need 1 liter of clean water (boiled or purified) and 2-3 tablets of succinic acid, which must be crushed and dissolved in water.

Growing orchid roots in water

This method is used in the complete absence of horses, when only the neck and leaves remain.

Growing orchid roots in water

In order to start building up, be sure to boil water or purchase purified water, because the water must be very clean and free of bacteria, therefore boiled water is preferable.

Take at least 1 liter of water at once and make a solution of homemade amber root for this volume (see above). Pour some water into a transparent container; a regular 0.5 liter jar will do just fine.

Place the orchid in the water so that its neck is in the water , but the water does not go into the base of the leaves . The water must be changed daily.

With this method you can get roots to form very quickly. But the method has one very big drawback. When the roots form and reach a size of 2 centimeters, the orchid will need to be planted in a substrate and this is where a problem always arises. After being kept in water, the orchid adapts very poorly to the substrate and begins to hurt. Sometimes a plant may even die during adaptation.

Growing orchid roots above water

This method is quite effective and is used by many gardeners.

Growing orchid roots above water

To do this, you will need transparent dishes; it is most convenient to use the same ordinary glass jar. Pour water into it. Place the orchid on the jar; if it is small and falls into it, then sushi chopsticks will come to your aid. Take the ones they give in sushi studios for beginners and tie them on top of the jar, and place an orchid between them. You can use any other orchid support that is convenient for you.

The main thing is to place the orchid so that it hangs above the water without touching it. As the roots grow, simply enlarge the jar so that the orchid is always above the water and not in it. In this way, you can grow roots of any length, ideally if you grow roots 3-5 centimeters long before planting in the substrate.

With this build-up, the water is changed once a week or as it gets dirty.

During root growth, it is necessary to wipe the leaves daily with a solution of succinic acid. To do this, dissolve 2-3 tablets of succinic acid in 1 liter of water.

An orchid with roots grown in this way adapts perfectly after planting in the substrate.

While the roots are growing, one of the leaves may turn yellow, but don’t let this scare you. Do not cut this leaf, the orchid chose it as additional nutrition, it will fall off on its own over time when the orchid uses it completely.

Growing orchid roots using the dip and dry method

This method is also often used, but this method is suitable only for those who have a lot of free time. It is not suitable for busy people, because you may simply forget to do everything according to the rules.

In order to grow roots using this method. You will need a small transparent flowerpot and any transparent container for water. Pour some water into a suitable bowl and immerse the orchid in it so that its base is immersed in water no more than 1 centimeter . It is best to use not just water, but a root solution to speed up the process. Keep the orchid in water for 6 hours.

Then take out the orchid and place it in a pot so that it is suspended: both its base and growing roots do not stand on the bottom . The orchid can be left without water for 10-12 hours, after which it can be immersed in water again. Do this daily until the orchid grows roots of at least 3 centimeters.

During germination, it is advisable to wipe the foliage daily with a solution of succinic acid.

The advantage of this method is that when subsequently planted in the substrate, it takes root well.

Growing orchid roots using the Roots Up method

This method is simply ideal for orchids that are completely left without a root system.

This method has one very big advantage: when growing in this way, roots will begin to appear within a month and upon subsequent planting in a permanent place, such orchids take root very well and take root.

For this method, take a transparent container of a suitable size. Place the orchid in the selected container with the foliage facing down. Pour water into the container so that it reaches no more than the middle of the sheet. It is imperative to use purified or boiled water. Place 1 tablet of activated carbon in water. The upper part where the roots will grow should be sprayed with warm purified water every day.

Growing orchid roots on moss

The method of growing orchid roots on moss is very effective; it is used both when growing roots in orchids requiring resuscitation, and in children.

For extensions in this way, sphagnum moss (read in detail by following the link).

To grow, you need to make an improvised greenhouse. Ideally, an old aquarium or a clear plastic container will do, or you can make a greenhouse out of a large plastic bottle. Expanded clay should be placed at the bottom for drainage. Place wet moss on top of the expanded clay; you can moisten it not just with water, but with a root solution. Water should not flow from the moss, it should just be damp. Plant your orchid with its “butt” on the moss and close the greenhouse. Then, while the root system is growing, monitor the moisture content of the moss on which the roots are growing.

Growing orchid roots on a piece of bark

This method is quite popular and effective for the reason that the roots grow in conditions as close as possible to natural ones.

Growing orchid roots on a piece of bark

For extensions, purchase a large piece of pine bark. Before you start growing, the bark must first be soaked in water. It must be soaked in water for 2 days.

Then you need to place the orchid on the bark and attach it to it with thread or regular rubber band. Place the bark on dry moss at an angle. The base of the orchid should touch the piece of bark. Before attaching the orchid to the bark, you can moisten the base in a root solution for faster root growth.

No watering or spraying is necessary. The growth will take approximately 3 months. During this time, it is necessary to ensure that the bark is moist. When dry, the bark must be periodically soaked in water again so that it is saturated with moisture.

When the orchid has roots of at least 3-5 centimeters, it can be planted in the substrate and placed in a permanent place of growth.

Growing orchid roots in substrate

This is perhaps the simplest and most commonly used method. The downside is that it takes a long time to grow, but the big plus is that subsequent planting is not needed, which means there is simply no chance that the orchid will not take root and will not take root. But it is only suitable if the orchid has 2-3 roots of at least 2 centimeters left.

For this type of growth you will need an orchid substrate. The orchid is placed in the substrate after you have prepared your orchid by removing all rot.

Then you need to plant it in the substrate as usual, always in a new one. For 2-3 days, do not do any even minimal watering. Then pour a little succinic acid solution from a bulb or syringe. After drying, pour with Kornevin solution. When growing, it is necessary to wipe the leaves daily with a solution of succinic acid. The roots will not grow as quickly as in water, but they will take root much better. During the growth, a couple of leaves may die, but this is not a problem, they are used to feed the orchid.

What mistakes are often made when growing roots?

Many people, seeing a leaf withering and turning yellow, immediately remove it. But doing this is simply prohibited. The plant is weakened, and it begins to independently receive nutrition from its leaves, thereby removing excess and getting what it needs. Wait until the leaf falls off on its own.

Also, many people do not give the orchid a lot of light, but photosynthesis is simply necessary for root growth. If there is little light, the roots may not grow at all.

After you have removed the rot, it is necessary to treat the cuts and root rods; simply washing and drying is not enough; treatment must be done.

Never treat cuts with brilliant green, although many recommend it. It dries out a lot and can even cause a burn, and then new roots will definitely not grow there anymore.

And so, after studying, it becomes clear that restoring an orchid that has lost its roots is quite possible. Of course, this will not happen quickly and will require effort, time and of course patience, a lot of patience. Treat the orchid like a sick family member and it will certainly come to life and delight you for many years to come with its simply gorgeous flowers. Be patient and diligent. Your orchid is not lost, it just got a little sick, and you are now its doctor. Good luck!

Peculiarities

Soil for orchids should not contain soil. Typically, a mixture consists of several components, each of which serves its purpose. Also, ingredients not only of natural origin, but also artificial ones, began to be added to the substrate for growing a flower. This is done to improve the quality of filling and living conditions of the plant.

The main requirement for the substrate is to prevent rotting of the root system by ensuring free access to oxygen. Some types of orchids are quite light-loving, so the universal substrate should not interfere with the free entry of light rays.

Advantages of expanded clay

Expanded clay has the following advantages:

holds water in all layers and at any depth;
chemically neutral;
has excellent breathability;
does not contain pests;
leads to infrequent watering, resulting in almost no overflow;
simplifies maintenance, including soil treatment;
used for a longer time, because it does not rot or decompose;
has a low specific gravity.

The use of expanded clay allows plants to be replanted less frequently.

Soil for phalaenopsis orchids: main components and their characteristics

Proper soil is an integral part of the full development of orchids.

The soil for phalaenopsis is called a substrate and its choice is of decisive importance for the full development of the plant.

The composition is determined by the climate at the place of cultivation - temperature, humidity, light.

The structure and components are selected both according to conditions and hybrid characteristics, flower size, capacity characteristics, etc.

Only lush flowering and development will give the answer to the correct selection of the substrate composition.

The composition or mixture may include the following components:

Tree bark;
Sphagnum moss;
Conifer cones;
Charcoal;
Vermiculite, perlite and expanded clay;
Styrofoam;
Peat;
Fern roots;
Coconut fiber, etc.

In modern flower retail outlets, a specially selected composition for orchids is available for sale.

But everyone, in principle, can prepare it on their own, following certain rules and recommendations.

Unlike natural components, synthetic ones have more disadvantages that you should pay attention to when choosing and preparing a soil mixture. When using polymers, it is worth knowing that under the influence of light, elements contained in air and water, decomposition processes occur, as a result of which a free form of styrene is formed

When using polymers, it is worth knowing that under the influence of light, elements contained in air and water, decomposition processes occur, as a result of which a free form of styrene is formed.

And it, in turn, penetrating into the roots, causes considerable harm to the plant.

In most cases, modern hybrid forms of phalaenopsis are not very demanding on the traditional composition of the soil.

But still, each maximizes its hybrid characteristics while observing certain proportions and composition of components.

The soil, or as experts call it, the substrate, must meet certain requirements:

Be light;
Moisture-intensive;
Breathable;
Loose.

Important! The main purpose of the soil is to create stability for the plant, close to the natural environment. Orchids use pine bark as the main component of the substrate, which has good aeration and moisture holding capacity.

Orchids use pine bark as the main component of the substrate, which has good aeration and moisture holding capacity.

Types of soil for phalaenopsis

There are many types of soils for orchids on the market. There are some with natural ingredients, some with artificial ones, or a mixture of both. Completely different proportions in the compositions.

It is very difficult for beginners to decide what kind of soil is needed with such a choice, and doing it yourself can be labor-intensive or simply lack the desire.

It is important to know the characteristics of your plant and understand the purpose of each component of the substrate and understand the proportions

Proportions

Proportions are determined by the conditions of the growing site.

At high humidity, you can get by with just pine bark with a small addition of charcoal, no more than 5%.
At average indoor air humidity (50-60%), sphagnum moss should be added to increase moisture capacity in proportions of 2 to 1.
If the humidity levels are lower, then add moisture-intensive components in a ratio of 1 to 2.

Compositions

The composition of the substrate is also very diverse, but the main components remain the bark and very rarely some gardeners use leaf soil.

Different types of soils for phalaenopsis orchids.

The composition is determined by understanding the existence of the plant in nature.

As an epiphyte, phalaenopsis does not require rooting, but grows through symbiosis with crops of tree origin.

At home, this function is performed by the bark, which is parasitized by a large number of fungal cultures.

The remaining components are of secondary, but still necessary, importance for full development.

Main characteristics

In plant growing, expanded clay is used to improve soil, for drainage, and as mulch, which prevents waterlogging of seedlings. The material is also used as a separate substrate for growing plants.

The soil is replaced with expanded clay. For irrigation, a nutrient solution or water is used, but with the introduction of fertilizing throughout the growing season. What is attractive about expanded clay?

The material is porous and highly hygroscopic. When watering, the liquid fills the pores and is retained in them for a long time. Flower growers and gardeners use this characteristic to grow moisture-loving plants. These include the orchid.
Expanded clay is not destroyed by fertilizers and is resistant to humid environments. It will last a long time, up to 50 years. In the future, it may crumble, but it should not be discarded. It can be sifted. Large pellets are treated with an antiseptic and used again. Fine sand can be used to prepare soil mixture.
Fungi and insects do not develop on expanded clay crushed stone, and pathogenic microflora do not settle. It protects seedlings from developing infections.
The pH of the material is usually elevated, so before use it is recommended to normalize the acid-base balance of the substrate.

They do not produce special expanded clay for orchids. For growing flowers, expanded clay gravel with a medium fraction of 10-20 mm is used. It is sold under the name “drainage” or “flower expanded clay”. The manufacturer usually indicates what actions the material has been subjected to. Often, the drainage is already prepared for use, washed, sifted and normalized for acidity.

If there are no instructions from the manufacturer, then the substrate must be prepared. Typically, flower growers immediately process it, dry it and store it in plastic containers in a dry place.

We recommend: How to grow plants using Growth Technology?

Possible problems and risks when growing in expanded clay

When keeping orchids in expanded clay, you can encounter a number of problems.

Possible difficulties:

Sudden temperature fluctuations. When the temperature changes, condensation accumulates inside the pot. This can lead to excess moisture. In this case, you need to drain all the water from the pot and dry the roots.
Hypothermia. As the temperature drops, the granules cool and when in contact with the roots they can cause rotting and fungal diseases. Therefore, the temperature must be maintained at a sufficient level.
Long survival rate. Due to a sudden change in soil, old roots are replaced by new ones. This may cause delayed budding.
Uncontrolled moisture. Wet granules release water to the roots until they dry completely. However, if watering is not done in a timely manner, they begin to draw moisture from the roots.
Root ingrowth. The expanded clay substrate often grows to the surfaces of the roots. When replanting again, there is no need to tear them off so as not to injure the velamen layer of the root system.
Salinization of expanded clay. Over time, the soil can become saline with mineral deposits and salts. To clean such a substrate, it must be periodically washed with distilled water.

It is also important to choose the correct diameter of the drainage holes. If the holes are too large, expanded clay can easily spill out of the pot

With very small holes in search of air, the orchid can direct root growth vertically upward.

Disadvantages of expanded clay

Despite the large number of advantages, there are some disadvantages. For example:

Expanded clay significantly makes the pot heavier, as a result of which such soil is not recommended for use for large varieties of orchids.
The material is free-flowing. Thus, if you tilt the flower pot, the granules may spill out.
It cannot be considered as a support for a plant, since it practically does not hold the flower in an upright position.

Despite all these disadvantages, transplanting orchids into expanded clay is very popular among gardeners.

Planting methods

The choice of planting method depends on the type of plant, as well as your own preferences. It is believed that planting an orchid in a block requires less effort and care. However, such an opinion can hardly be called truthful.

How to make an orchid bloom at home

After watering, the owners often dry out the roots, and therefore it is worth watering the plant more often. For propagation, it is better not to take the seed for planting; the procedure is simpler by taking shoots (cuttings).

Important! The optimal time to transplant a plant is the growing season. If the plant remains in a dormant period, it may suffer during this process, which increases the risk of rotting processes.

Landing in a block

Planting an orchid in a block is the most practical method. It allows you to avoid frequent replanting of the plant; you can constantly see the roots to inspect the plant. The risk of damage and rotting of roots in this case is minimal.

Landing is carried out in the following way:

It is worth placing sphagnum moss under the orchid.
Holding the plant with your hand, straighten the roots of the plant, carefully secure it (over time, the flower itself will attach to the block, it is necessary to provide support for the first time).
Cover the roots with sphagnum moss or bark on top to better retain moisture.

Immediately after transplantation, the plant needs to soften the conditions. The orchid needs to be sprayed frequently to maintain high air humidity.

Planting an orchid in a block

In the pot

It is necessary to grow orchids in pots if they do not like the soil to dry out completely. To do this, it is recommended to choose special containers with a large number of holes designed for planting these plants.

At this point, the question often arises whether it will be possible to plant an orchid in an opaque pot. This is acceptable, but then the plant itself may feel worse, and the condition of the roots cannot be viewed.

The landing plan is as follows:

Prepare the container: make holes in the center and on the walls (if there are none). If you use a clay pot, it is worth attaching a metal frame to it, by which you can later pull out the plant without any problems.
Pour drainage into the pot and fill one third with substrate.
Carefully remove the flower from the old pot, shake off the old substrate, and rinse the roots with warm water. In this case, the root system should not be damaged. It is worth carefully inspecting the roots and cutting off any rotten or dry ones. Treat the cut areas with an antiseptic.
Place the flower in the pot so that the connection of the roots remains at the level of the top edge.
Distribute the substrate evenly between the roots, install a support, and compact it carefully.

To allow the plant to adapt and take root faster, it is worth changing the care system for at least 2 weeks.

Planting an orchid in a pot

Orchid transplantation: step-by-step instructions with photos

To transplant an orchid at home “without losses,” you need to adhere to the correct algorithm, since any mistake can lead to the death of an exotic flower. Take it step by step.

Step 1: Remove the orchid from the pot

First, water the plant thoroughly. It is easier to work with moist, water-saturated roots; they are less likely to break and be injured.

After watering, carefully remove the root system from the pot, while holding the orchid by the lower part of the stem. Carefully move all the roots that have grown to the walls; perhaps they will come off on their own. If this does not happen, take a toothpick, place it under the stuck root and slide it along the wall of the pot. Be careful not to damage the velamen (root sheath).

Try to free the roots that have crawled out of the drainage holes and thread them inside the pot. Transplanting an orchid at home can be quite traumatic, so you shouldn’t cut off the roots again. If they do not come out of the holes, it is better to cut or break the pot (of course, if it is not valuable).

Before taking out the root, it is advisable to knead the walls of the pot on all sides. After this, it will be easier to remove the orchid.

Step 2: Remove old substrate

Some of the substrate may have already fallen out when you removed the plant from the pot. Now remove the rest manually. Moisten any stuck pieces of bark with water and try to remove them carefully. If this does not work, leave them on the roots; they will not interfere with the further growth of the plant.

When replanting, you need to remove all the old soil.

Step 3: Rinse the roots with water

To completely remove the remains of the old substrate from the roots, rinse them under running warm water.

Avoid getting water into the center of the rosette and into the axils of the leaves. If this happens, blot the water with a cotton pad or napkin.

Washing the roots is necessary to remove remnants of old soil and see all problem (rotting, dry) places

Step 4: Trim away diseased roots

Now that the root system is clean, take a good look at it and assess its condition.

Healthy roots are plump and shiny. If they grew in the light and participated in photosynthesis, then after watering they will turn green. Some of them will most likely turn out to be beige or yellowish - no big deal, they were probably located in the depths of the pot, without access to light.

Rotten and dry roots should be trimmed without regret using a sharp knife with a disinfected blade.

How can you tell if the roots are rotten? They are brown, soft, and may release water when pressed. Dry ones are also immediately visible, they look like dried straw. All this must be removed down to living tissue.

Also remove dry scales (remnants of old leaves and flower stalks) from the trunk.

Rotting, problem areas must be trimmed so that they do not cause infection of the entire root system

Step 5: Process the cuts

Roots that have been pruned must be disinfected.

To do this you can:

Use fungicides: Maxim, Ordan, Profit Gold, Fitolavin, Previkur, Topsin. It is necessary to dilute the selected product according to the instructions and spray the orchid roots with it.
Lubricate the cuts with undiluted Maxim fungicide, Topudzhin paste or brilliant green (spotwise, only on the cut site to dry it).
Dust the cuts with crushed charcoal or cinnamon.

After all manipulations, leave the orchid to dry. As a rule, after 1-2 hours the wounds on the roots will heal and you can transplant the orchid into another pot.

Note!

If it turns out that the roots are in poor condition and you have cut a lot, do not rush to plant the orchid in the substrate. Leave it with the root exposed in an empty pot for at least a week to monitor its condition. Dip the roots in warm water every day, this will be enough to prevent them from drying out. In a week it will be clear whether the plant needs resuscitation measures or whether it can be placed in a substrate.

Step 6: Plant the plant in the pot

Place large pieces of bark, expanded clay or foam at the bottom of the new pot - this will serve as a drainage layer.
Place the orchid roots on top. You should try to place them so that they fit completely into the pot.
Carefully fill the voids between the roots with substrate; for convenience, you can use a wooden stick.
Shake the pot so that the soil fills all the air pockets. The orchid must be fixed in the substrate. If it falls to the side, install a support nearby.
Place damp sphagnum moss on top of the substrate layer. It will moisturize the aerial roots of the orchid and prevent the top layer of bark from drying out quickly.

When planting an orchid, do not forcefully compact the soil into the pot; the components of the substrate should lie freely

Care after transplant

After the Phalaenopsis orchid transplant is completed, it requires specific care.

Temperature and lighting

The temperature regime is selected in such a way as not to overdry the flower, but also not to overcool it, because this can lead to wilting of the leaves and atrophy of the roots.

The regime of 25-28 degrees during the day and 18-25 at night is ideal for Phalaenopsis.

The amount of light is also very important for the period after the move. The flower is transferred to the shade and protected from direct sunlight

Watering

You can carry out the watering procedure after transplantation in a few days. This depends on how much the root system dried out during the move. If the transplant is carried out after flowering, then perhaps the Phalaenopsis enters a resting phase, during which care differs from everyday care. The frequency of watering is reduced, and the temperature also becomes lower.

In this article, we talked about how to replant phalaenopsis and provided step-by-step instructions for replanting a Phalaenopsis orchid.