Proper pruning of spirea, caring for the plant in the fall, preparing for winter

The beautiful meadowsweet (also known as spirea) has been known to people for a very long time, but the high decorative value of this shrub was appreciated only with the advent of landscape design. Gardeners take care of maintaining the lushness of the bush and the luxurious flowering of spirea in the fall, by pruning and providing care in preparation for winter. But not every gardener knows that the method of cutting different types of meadowsweet is very different. We will help you understand the nuances of caring for this spectacular plant.

Varieties of spirea

The genus Spiraea is part of the Rosaceae family and includes over 80 species of ornamental deciduous shrubs. The average height of the crop is 90–170 cm, the crown circumference reaches 2.5 m. The openwork crown is made up of thin shoots that bend under the mass of inflorescences almost to the ground. Therefore, spirea is often compared to a snow-white fountain. The first flowering occurs in the 3rd-4th year of the growing season and is limited to the appearance of individual inflorescences. In subsequent years, the shrub tirelessly pleases gardeners with its splendor. The plant can act as a spectacular soloist or join a group. Due to their hardiness, unpretentiousness, and resistance to dust, spirea are often used as hedges.

If you choose the right cultivars according to flowering time, you can achieve continuity of this process for 3-3.5 months.

The timing and features of pruning shrubs directly depend on its variety. All types of spirea are usually divided according to flowering time into spring-blooming and summer-blooming. Let's look at the main representatives of these groups.

Early flowering (spring) species of meadowsweet

Snow-white flowers with a yellow core and incredibly long stamens are a characteristic characteristic of early-blooming spirea. Dense corymbose or umbrella-shaped inflorescences densely cling to thin shoots, causing them to bend to the ground. The appearance of “snow” on the branches occurs at the end of spring or beginning of summer. Flower buds are formed on last year's shoots and are located along the entire length of the branches. The May “snow storm” lasts only 2-3 weeks, fills the garden with fragrance, attracting a lot of pollinators.

The following spring types of spirea are most often found in cultivation:

• Wangutta;
• Nippon;
• Thunberg;
• oakleaf;
• Gray;
• Arguta;
• Average;
• Gorodchataya.

They differ slightly in height, shape of crown and leaves, size of flowers and inflorescences. Some representatives have a snow-white color, others have a cream color. Nippon spirea dresses up in a crimson dress in autumn, and Vangutta burns with an orange flame.

The listed varieties are light-loving, but tolerate light shading. Spiraea are capable of growing in spartan conditions, but without proper pruning and periodic rejuvenation, they first grow and look sloppy, and then begin to wither and lose their decorative effect.

Summer-blooming spirea

Representatives of this group bloom throughout the summer. They are characterized by bright, rich colors of inflorescences - pink, reddish, purple. Inflorescences are formed on the current year's growths and have the shape of panicles or large corymbs.

Summer-flowering spirea include the following species:

Like their spring sisters, summer-blooming spirea are unpretentious, light-loving, and can withstand gas pollution. The listed crops will fit perfectly into the design of any garden and will decorate a garden bed or mixborder. Gardeners are especially attracted to Japanese spirea, from which a lot of beautiful varieties and decorative variegated forms have been obtained. Cultivars of Japanese meadowsweet can be easily shaped and used to create garden sculptures.

Spirea pests and diseases they cause

Most often, Japanese spirea is affected by spider mites. The disease manifests itself in the appearance of whitish spots on the leaves, their subsequent yellowing and falling off. To destroy mites, it is recommended to treat plants with 0.2% phosphamide or acrex solution. Significant harm can be caused to the plant by aphids and roseate leaf rollers feeding on its juices. In these cases, it is best to treat the bushes with bitoxibacillin and pirimor. You can also use 0.1% actellik or 0.2% ethos. A good effect is obtained by spraying plants in dry weather with water and herbal infusions, strengthening them with regular fertilizing and timely watering.

Japanese spirea brings bright colors and shapes to the garden plot, allows you to diversify the landscape using unusual topiary figures from trimmed bushes, create a beautiful border or fill the free space with beautiful, eye-catching single specimens of plants. Admiring this decorative crop, you can ensure a positive mood and good health, and bouquets made using its inflorescences will be a wonderful addition to the interior of any room.

Pruning Japanese spirea: video

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Types and timing of shrub pruning

Throughout the growing season, meadowsweet must be periodically pruned. This plant is so plastic that it can be easily shaped, and reacts very positively to pruning, throwing out more powerful shoots and forming a larger number of inflorescences. Thanks to shearing, it is possible to achieve an increase in the decorative value of the crop, because meadowsweet is a fast-growing species. It produces a lot of root shoots and shoots, so without timely trimming it will become a sloppy bush.

Depending on the goals pursued, spirea pruning is divided into the following types:

• sanitizing;
• stimulating;
• formative;
• rejuvenating.

Meadowsweet shoots are short-lived and after 1-2 years they begin to dry out. If you leave them on the bush, the branches will become a haven for pests and a breeding ground for fungal spores. Some types of shrubs do not tolerate frost very well; the tips of the branches freeze slightly. To protect the crop from diseases and restore its decorative appearance, gardeners remove diseased, dry, broken branches throughout the growing season. Frozen shoots are cut out in the spring before the buds open.

Stimulating haircut is used for early flowering meadowsweet over 3-4 years old. By removing weak shoots, branching is stimulated and flowering is enhanced. This approach will improve illumination and ventilation of the crown, which will have a beneficial effect on the health of the crop. Stimulating haircut is carried out in early autumn.

The formation of shrubs is usually done in spring or autumn. The autumn period is less busy for gardeners, so the spirea crown is most often formed in the fall.

A shaping haircut can be moderate or dramatic. In the first case, the silhouette of the bush is simply slightly adjusted, in the second, so many branches are cut off so that the crop takes the desired shape.

Plants older than 15 years will need anti-aging pruning. From this age, biological aging begins, the bush gradually loses its attractiveness. Autumn pruning is done 2-3 weeks before frost, so that the wounds have time to heal.

Description

The shrub looks luxurious when it blooms, thanks to its flowing shoots covered with snow-white inflorescences. From spring to autumn, a bush with a flowing, spreading or spherical crown also looks decorative, because it is decorated with green foliage with an emerald-bluish tint.

Inflorescences on long shoots gradually bloom in such numbers that the branches begin to bend almost to the surface of the ground and look like lacy snow-white lines.

This variety of spirea blooms again in August, although not as spectacularly as in the first half of summer.

Let's look at the photo and description of the spirea Vangutta shrub in more detail.

Table 1.1 - Description of decorative perennial

Characteristic	Peculiarities
Height	Range 0.7-2 m. The crown is spreading, spherical or cascading. The diameter of the bush is 3 m.
Escapes	Curved branches flow from the center to the periphery. But there are subspecies with erect shoots.
Leaves	The shape of the leaf with teeth is obovate, there are up to 5 lobes. The length of the leaf is 3-3.5 cm. The outer side of the leaf is dark green with a hint of emerald, and the lower part is bluish in color. In autumn the leaves are colored red-purple.
Inflorescences	Flowering in the last ten days of May for 20-35 days. The snow-white inflorescence is represented by a dense hemispherical umbrella. Inflorescences are formed on branches that are over 2 years old.
Flowers	The buds open with white petals, the core of the flower is yellow.
Fruit	Multi-seeded leaflets are fruits that ripen in September.

The ornamental plant can be planted in partial shade, but the flowering will not be intense. And although the shrub cannot withstand a significant drop in air temperature, it is capable of very rapid recovery after freezing.

Pruning early flowering spireas

Early flowering spirea tend to grow a large number of shoots, and therefore require the mandatory removal of part of the shoots. If the bush grows alone, gardeners recommend creating a strong skeleton by removing weak shoots. In autumn, cut off a quarter of the shoots at soil level. Over the next season, the bush will expel new young branches.

Early flowering species are pruned after the inflorescences wither, in mid-summer, but more often the event is postponed until autumn, when the crown is clearly visible. You can’t be overzealous with cutting, because the flower buds have already been laid, so gardeners cut off only a third of the annual growth. This stimulates tillering and enhances flowering. Unbranched branches, which are often observed in spirea gray Grefsheim and Vangutta (hybrids), are cut in half, and a third of the growth is cut off at each fork.

In spring, pruning is not carried out so as not to lose some of the inflorescences. Only the frozen tips and branches broken by snow are removed.

When to trim

Knowing the timing of crown formation, you can get harmonious shrubs on your site that will delight you with their flowering until the cold weather.

Did you know? Spiraea is directly related to the production of aspirin. It was the presence of salicin glycoside in its shoots that became the reason for the discovery of acetylsalicylic acid in the 19th century.

Blooming in spring

The inflorescences of these types of spirea are formed on branches that appeared in the previous season and are white or cream in color . The only exceptions are some varieties, for example, Nipponskaya, which blooms crimson, and Vangutta, colored orange. Blooming spirea is beautifully covered with flowers for 2-3 weeks.

The following varieties are especially popular:

• Sharp-toothed;
• Gray;
• Nippon;
• Arguta;
• Wangutta;
• Average;
• oakleaf;
• Gorodchataya;
• Thunberg.

These varieties bloom in May-June. In secluded plantings, weakened, intertwining branches of such bushes are pruned. You can also form the skeleton of a bush from healthy, powerful stems. In the first season after planting, it is not recommended to cut the shrub heavily. You can only trim the branches slightly and remove weak crowns that grow inward. This haircut will help the bush bloom well in the new season.

Did you know? Spirea in Rus' was used not only to decorate gardens - it had practical significance. Whip handles and ramrods were made from elegant and strong rods.

In the second year, deeper pruning will have to be done. Each faded branch is pruned back to the strongest young shoot. They also get rid of weak branches so that the desired shape is preserved.

Spiraea is characterized by rapid growth and can become very overgrown. To prevent the shrub from losing its decorative appearance, every autumn, starting from the third year, all shoots are cut into 1/4–1/5 parts, cutting them at soil level. This method allows new branches to form normally in the new season.

Pruning spirea blooming in summer

Summer-flowering varieties of shrubs respond well to pruning. The more shoots are removed, the more intensively the green mass grows. Haircuts are carried out every autumn, starting at the age of 3–4 years. Be sure to cut out all weak growth at the level of the root collar. In autumn or early spring, trim the branches, leaving 2-3 developed buds above the woody part.

Stimulating pruning consists of complete removal of vegetation at a height of 30 cm. The event is carried out in early spring to stimulate tillering. Spiraea, which is cared for according to all the rules, will recover very quickly and will delight you with abundant flowering already in the current season.

The effect of pruning on the appearance and development of spirea

Spirea is the type of shrub that responds gratefully to pruning, even serious pruning. Such procedures stimulate both active plant growth and powerful flowering in all varieties, including spring-blooming and summer-blooming varieties.

Lack of regular pruning, on the contrary, will lead to the fact that the bush will look unkempt and turn into thickets with dry branches and weak, unattractive flowering - the bush simply will not have the strength to form new buds. Moreover, if you prune faded shoots in mid-summer (July), the shrub can bloom a second time as early as September! The main thing is not to forget to remove the wilted shoots again in the fall.

Thus, the main advantages of pruning are: a noticeable increase in the splendor of the bush, more abundant or even repeated flowering, giving the bush absolutely any shape, including the geometric shapes characteristic of a hedge. In addition, timely treated shrubs will allow more air and light to pass through. The procedure will minimize the risk of pest attack or diseases due to leaf decay deep in the crown. It is almost impossible to prune spirea incorrectly, so do not be afraid to harm it with this procedure.

Pruning after planting, replanting, dividing the bush

Planting and replanting of ornamental shrubs is carried out in the fall. At the same time, it is customary to divide bushes that are 3–4 years old to obtain new specimens. To facilitate the adaptation of the bush in a new place, planting work is combined with pruning.

The work is carried out in early autumn, as soon as there is a change in the color of the foliage. Choose a cloudy or rainy day and follow the following algorithm.

1. Remove the bush from the soil, having first dug it around the perimeter of half the crown projection.
2. Rinse the roots thoroughly, divide into several parts so that the division has renewal buds, shoots and a developed network of roots.
3. In advance (3-4 days in advance), arrange a planting hole with a diameter and depth of 40-50 cm.
4. Fill the hole with drainage made of broken bricks or crushed stone to a height of 15 cm.
5. Prepare a substrate of peat, leaf soil and coarse sand (1:2:1), fill a third of the hole with it.
6. Place the cutting, seedling or transplanted plant in the hole, add soil so that the root collar is level with the surface of the earth.
7. Compact the substrate a little, water and mulch with peat chips.
8. Remove all weak and damaged branches.
9. Shorten the skeletal shoots to the level of mature wood.
10. If the bush has old shoots, remove them immediately, since in the spring they will die anyway and attract pests.

Reproduction

Since the germination rate of Vangutta spirea seeds is only 5%, the plant is propagated by cuttings, layering or dividing the bush.

Spiraea is cut about two weeks after flowering. Choose healthy and strong semi-lignified shoots for cuttings. They are rooted in a box with a substrate made of equal parts of peat and river sand. It is best to place the box with cuttings in a greenhouse, thereby ensuring a high level of substrate and air humidity. A year later, cuttings with a well-developed root system are planted in separate containers for growing.

The easiest way to propagate spirea is by rooting cuttings. In the spring, a low-growing, semi-lignified branch is bent to the ground, placed in a pre-made groove, leaving the tip of the shoot on the surface, the branch is fixed with a metal pin, after which the groove is filled with fertile soil. The cuttings are watered throughout the season and covered with dry leaves for the winter. In the spring, the rooted branch is separated from the bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Growing Japanese spirea in the garden - planting and care

Dividing the bush can be done when transplanting spirea. The bush is dug up and carefully divided into parts, each of which should have strong roots and developed shoots. The sections are treated with crushed coal, after which the sections are planted in pre-prepared pits.

How to rejuvenate a bush?

Mature specimens over 15 years old require anti-aging pruning. The event is carried out in the fall by completely removing the above-ground part of the bush at the level of the root collar. The same scheme is used for a plant that has been severely damaged by pests. After such a drastic intervention, summer-flowering varieties will bloom next season, and spring varieties only a year later.

Do not leave stumps after cutting. Young thin and weak branches will grow from the dormant buds on the pruning in the spring.

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Hedge modeling

A spirea hedge is an excellent solution for a garden plot. It will protect your property from dust and exhaust gases, serve as decoration and a screen from prying eyes, without causing strong shading.

After adjusting the shape of the hedge in autumn, be sure to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizer and mulch the soil. This measure stimulates the healing of wounds and will help prepare for winter.

Systematic trimming of hedges allows you to:

• achieve density by stimulating shoot branching;
• give the plant fence compactness, a certain silhouette, height and shape;
• maintain the health of the hedge by improving ventilation and lighting of the bushes.

Hedge modeling begins a year after planting. Young bushes are pruned, removing a third of the annual growth. After 2-3 years, you can cut off up to half of each branch to maintain the shape of the green fence. As it ages, periodically trim off drying branches inside the crown.

Low pruning of an old fence will lead to the risk of drying out or freezing, since old bushes have an increased tendency to expose the root collar.

Why does spirea need pruning?

Pruning helps to increase the bushiness of the bush, enhances and prolongs the flowering period. In addition, after pruning, air circulation is established inside the crown, which gives the plant health and protection from pests and the development of diseases.

Pruning allows you to give the spirea any desired shape.

Preparing spirea for winter

Autumn care for spirea necessarily includes preparation for the dormant period. Young animals are wrapped up for the winter to avoid freezing. To do this, the branches are loosely tied together with twine and wrapped in covering material. In harsh climates, it is better to build an air-dry shelter.

The root system of spirea lies close to the soil surface, so it is better to insulate even adult bushes. Cover the root collar with a 10–15 cm thick layer of leaf or peat mulch.

With proper care, including systematic pruning and rejuvenation, the ornamental spirea shrub will decorate the garden for 20-25 years. Since spring work takes a lot of time from gardeners, it is convenient to postpone caring for lush bushes until the fall.

Pruning spirea is an important point in caring for a beautiful flowering shrub. Since there are many spireas, there are different types and varieties, it is important for the gardener to determine which bush grows on the site. According to the group, spring- or summer-flowering, pruning is carried out.

Planting spirea

Boarding time

The best time to plant spirea is September. Favorable weather is cloudy, or even better – rainy, when the soil is well saturated with moisture.

Soil and size of planting holes

Spiraea grows and develops best on loose, breathable soils with a lot of humus. Of course, plants will grow on poor soils, but in this case they will not be able to show all their beauty.

The size of the landing holes is determined as follows:

• If the soil on your site is exactly what spirea likes, the planting holes should be 25-30% larger than its root system and 40-50 cm deep.
• If the soil at the site for growing is not entirely suitable, then it is advisable to dig a hole three times larger than the root system of the seedling. Both in width and in depth.

The mixture with which the hole will be filled is made up of sand (river), peat and turf or leaf soil. Moreover, two parts of earth are taken, but sand and peat are taken in one part.

The distance between planting holes depends on the placement of spirea and flowering time:

• Summer-flowering spirea, when planted in a hedge, is planted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other; when arranged in several rows, the distance between rows is 30-40 cm. In group plantings, a distance of 50-70 cm is maintained, sometimes up to 1 m.
• Spring-flowering spireas are planted more freely. In hedges at a distance of 70 cm - 1 m, in group plantings - 1-1.5 m. For group planting, holes are dug at a distance of 50-70 cm.

Landing technology

Before planting, soil is first poured into the bottom of the hole, and then the seedling is installed, all the roots are straightened out and only then everything is carefully covered with an earthen mixture.

The bush is planted so that the root collar (the junction of the trunk and roots) is located at ground level.

Before planting, the root system must be inspected and broken and dried roots must be cut off.

If you plant a seedling with a lump of earth, then after planting, carry out good watering.

And if the root system is bare (without soil), then it is placed for 12 or 24 hours in a solution of water and a root formation stimulator. This can be heteroauxin, succinic acid, indolylacetic acid and various other drugs that can be purchased at any garden or flower center. Plants treated in this way are immediately planted in their permanent growing location.

We also need to remind you of one nuance that should be taken into account when preparing the hole for planting. Although spirea love moisture, there should be no water (underground or after rain) near their roots under any circumstances. Therefore, if planting is done in the ground with a large amount of clay, then drainage must be poured into a hole (dug 2-3 times larger than the root system of the bush). For this, gravel or crushed stone is usually used. The height of the layer should be 10 -15 centimeters. Then soil is poured over the drainage, into which young spirea is planted.

Do I need to prune spirea after flowering?

To make the shrub decorative, regardless of the flowering period, faded panicles are removed. This is especially important for spireas, whose foliage is sometimes even more picturesque than the flowers. Decorative pruning of spirea, which blooms in late July or early August, emphasizes the expressive autumn colors of the leaves and the shape of the trimmed bush.

The technique for early spring pruning differs for shrubs that bloom in spring or summer. But after flowering, in June, it is imperative to remove branches with faded inflorescences from spireas that bloomed in May or early June. Their flower buds are laid in the fall along the entire length of the branch. Over the summer, a full-fledged shoot is formed, which will bloom buds next spring. The lush shape of bushes of the spring-flowering group is achieved by special pruning of spirea after flowering. Tall flexible shoots are shortened by a third or half. From the remaining buds, several young branches grow, on which buds form.

Those meadowsweet shrubs, as spirea is also called, that bloom in summer, can be arranged at will also after the panicles have withered. But if pruning does not take place, it is carried out in early spring. Summer-flowering species form buds with buds on the shoots of the current year. After removing old branches in April, the plant will still create new ones by the beginning of flowering in July. Pruning paniculata spirea after flowering is not as important as for those plants that bloom in the spring.

Agricultural technology of spirea

Spiraea does not cause problems during the growing process; it is not a very demanding plant, even a beginner can handle its care. For shrubs to grow well, they need more light, good soil and regular watering. In winter, they require additional shelter, but only in the northern regions. Bushes need to be trimmed and fertilized if necessary. Trimming them allows you to give them a beautiful shape, which is useful if they are part of the landscape. For fertilizer, it is worth using mineral fertilizers with nitrogen in the spring and additives with phosphorus and potassium in the winter.

White spirea

All about pruning spirea

Pruning of ordinary or gray spirea is carried out after flowering; it is done differently, taking into account the type of shrubs, which are spring-flowering and summer-flowering.

Shrubs should be pruned after flowering to remove all branches with wilted inflorescences from plants that bloomed in May or early June. This is especially necessary for panicle-type bushes that bloom in spring, since they are pruned for decorative purposes. Flower buds in such spirea appear along the length of the branches in the autumn, and over the summer they form adult shoots, on which buds will bloom next spring. Bushes that bloom in summer are pruned in early spring.

Many novice gardeners are interested in the question of when to prune gray spirea. This species is considered the most popular, it is unpretentious and requires pruning in early summer after flowering. In each of the bushes, buds form in the fall, so they cannot be pruned in March or April. During these periods, only rejuvenating pruning is allowed, when the bushes are cut at ground level. You can also carry out standard sanitary pruning.

Note! Pruning gray spirea is usually done after flowering, this is the best option.

How to cut spirea correctly

House bushes growing in the garden can be made more beautiful with the help of sanitary and decorative pruning. This process begins in the spring immediately after the snow melts. During pruning, damaged shoots and growth inside the bushes are removed for sanitary purposes. Bushes that bloom in summer should be freed from last year's dried inflorescences, weak and old branches. When shortening shoots, you need to make sure that the cuts are above the buds growing outward. Pruning to form bushes is carried out at the same level, gradually giving the bush a round shape.

When to prune spirea

Varieties of such crops as:

and some other, less common ones, are pruned at the beginning of summer, when flowering has ended. All these shrubs lay flower buds in the fall. Therefore, March or April formative pruning is contraindicated for them. At this time, only rejuvenating pruning is carried out, when the entire bush is cut off at ground level.

Sanitary pruning is also acceptable, in which the frozen ends of the shoots are cut off, as well as small shoots inside the bush.

• Douglas;
• Boumalda;
• Billard;
• Willow;
• Birch leaf;
• Japanese;
• White;
• Felt

and several more less common species are pruned either after flowering, from late July-early August, or in early spring. Plants form buds for buds on shoots growing in spring. When working with spirea, you need to know that shaping the bush helps create a larger number of shoots with flower buds.

How to care for Spiraea Wangutta

In order for the Vanhoutte spirea (Spiraea Vanhouttei) to delight with its luxurious flowering for a long time, it is necessary to provide it with proper care, which includes the following activities:

Watering

Spiraea Nippon - planting and care

The root system of the plant is located near the soil surface, so the crop does not tolerate drought well.

It is important to carry out moderate watering, the frequency of which should be determined by weather factors, soil type and age of the ornamental shrub. You should not moisturize it in broad daylight; it is better to choose evening and morning time for this.

Top dressing

To obtain luxurious specimens with a wildly flowering crown, spirea should be provided with the necessary nutrients in the required quantities. The culture is unpretentious, which is why it is enough to feed it once in the spring, using a universal mineral complex.

Trimming

When growing spirea, it is important to form the crown in a timely manner. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering: this will give the bush a beautiful shape.

Sanitary pruning is also necessary, in which damaged, dried, diseased stems, as well as shoots older than 3-4 years, should be removed. Two-year-old branches should be shortened by half.

Additional Information! If you prune every year and monitor the appearance of an ornamental plant, then its average life expectancy will be 20 years.

Types of pruning

When pruning a summer-flowering spirea, several different pruning methods can be applied to it, depending on the age and purpose of planting the shrub. On single bushes, pruning is carried out starting from 3-4 years of age, so that more new shoots are formed for flowering. For proper pruning of spirea, the following types of treatment are practiced in the spring:

• sanitary or cosmetic;
• formative;
• stimulating;
• rejuvenating.

Separately, you can trim spirea, which creates hedges.

Almost the same types of pruning are used for spring-flowering meadowsweet, but they are carried out after flowering. Spirea cuttings are easily tolerated by the plant in summer. Radical treatments to rejuvenate bushes are also carried out in the spring.

A beautiful shrub is formed by pruning and rejuvenation.

Classification of spirea species

To begin with, it is worth remembering that all spirea are divided according to flowering time.

Species such as spirea middle, sharp-toothed, plum-leaved, Vangutta, Thunberg, three-lobed bloom in May - early June and belong to the group of spring-flowering spirea.

Another group of spireas becomes covered with inflorescences in July–August and is classified as a summer bloomer. These include dwarf, birchleaf, Japanese, loosestrife, white, Douglas and densely flowered.

For both groups, the choice of landing site, soil and planting technology are the same.

Soil and size of planting holes

Spiraea grows and develops best on loose, breathable soils with a lot of humus. Of course, plants will grow on poor soils, but in this case they will not be able to show all their beauty.

The size of the landing holes is determined as follows:

• If the soil on your site is exactly what spirea likes, the planting holes should be 25-30% larger than its root system and 40-50 cm deep.
• If the soil at the site for growing is not entirely suitable, then it is advisable to dig a hole three times larger than the root system of the seedling. Both in width and in depth.

The mixture with which the hole will be filled is made up of sand (river), peat and turf or leaf soil. Moreover, two parts of earth are taken, but sand and peat are taken in one part.

The distance between planting holes depends on the placement of spirea and flowering time:

• Summer-flowering spirea, when planted in a hedge, is planted at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other; when arranged in several rows, the distance between rows is 30-40 cm. In group plantings, a distance of 50-70 cm is maintained, sometimes up to 1 m.
• Spring-flowering spireas are planted more freely. In hedges at a distance of 70 cm - 1 m, in group plantings - 1-1.5 m. For group planting, holes are dug at a distance of 50-70 cm.

Landing technology

Before planting, soil is first poured into the bottom of the hole, and then the seedling is installed, all the roots are straightened out and only then everything is carefully covered with an earthen mixture.

The bush is planted so that the root collar (the junction of the trunk and roots) is located at ground level.

Before planting, the root system must be inspected and broken and dried roots must be cut off.

If you plant a seedling with a lump of earth, then after planting, carry out good watering.

And if the root system is bare (without soil), then it is placed for 12 or 24 hours in a solution of water and a root formation stimulator. This can be heteroauxin, succinic acid, indolylacetic acid and various other drugs that can be purchased at any garden or flower center. Plants treated in this way are immediately planted in their permanent growing location.

We also need to remind you of one nuance that should be taken into account when preparing the hole for planting. Although spirea love moisture, there should be no water (underground or after rain) near their roots under any circumstances. Therefore, if planting is done in the ground with a large amount of clay, then drainage must be poured into a hole (dug 2-3 times larger than the root system of the bush). For this, gravel or crushed stone is usually used. The height of the layer should be 10 -15 centimeters. Then soil is poured over the drainage, into which young spirea is planted.

How to prune spirea correctly

They work with the bushes as soon as the snow melts. By carrying out sanitary pruning of any meadowsweet bushes, they get rid of damaged shoots and weak growth inside the bush. The plant gives strength to healthy branches, increasing the number of buds. Remove all last year's dry inflorescences from summer flowering bushes. And for early-flowering spirea, care includes pruning weak branches and old, 7-10-year-old shoots in March-April. The frozen tops are also cut off. When shortening the shoot, make sure that the cut is above the bud that grows outward.

Stimulating treatment means shortening the branches so that shoots come from them. The shrub becomes more luxuriant and looks more decorative with many inflorescences.

Young shoots of meadowsweet, which blooms in the summer, are shortened above well-developed buds, from which branches with buds grow in the spring. The same procedure for spring flowering species is performed in June. Bushes with old shoots are transformed, leaving only 25-30 cm of the trunk above the ground. The plant will resume more luxuriantly.

Formative pruning of spirea bushes is also carried out in spring or summer. When cutting off parts of the shoots for the growth of new branches, they try to make the cutting lines at the same level, gradually rounding the silhouette of the bush. The formation of a hedge from meadowsweet bushes, which blooms in July, is postponed until the end of August; in the spring all that remains is to trim the lines. At the same time, the bush is thinned out inside, removing old and twisted branches. Thickening can provoke the development of fungal diseases or create a cozy environment for pests. Control the thickening of the meadowsweet bush once every 2-3 years. To form and trim early-flowering spirea, frozen branches are removed and dense thickets are thinned out. To improve tillering, the longest shoots are shortened by 20-25 cm.

Spirea. Care

Despite all their visual attractiveness, spirea are quite unpretentious and grow and bloom well under the most ordinary conditions - loose fertile soil, good lighting, no stagnation of water, fertilizing with a complex of mineral fertilizers 3 times per season and winter shelter for young specimens or for especially tender varieties. The only subtlety when growing spirea is proper pruning.

• Spring-flowering spireas practically do not need pruning, with the exception of sanitary pruning, when old (over 5 years old) shoots, dry and broken branches, and shoots frozen over the winter are removed. Pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, but there is no need to shorten faded shoots, as this will cause increased growth of lateral branches, at the ends of which the inflorescences will be small and inexpressive. And most importantly, the shape of the bush will be disrupted and the effect of drooping flowering branches down to the ground will be spoiled.
• Summer-flowering spirea are pruned in early spring, starting from the fourth year of life, at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. If this is not done, then the bush will gradually lose its shape, as the old branches will begin to deviate from the center of the bush, laying on the ground. And if you cut only at the tops, the plant will produce thinned young shoots with small, unattractive inflorescences. If you are still afraid of short pruning, then as an experiment you can trim exactly half of the bush and leave the other half alone - and in the middle of summer you can compare the results.

Features of pruning spirea of ​​different varieties

To tidy up the meadowsweet bush that grows in the garden, you only need to study its characteristic data and determine the type.

Pruning white spirea after flowering

The species is widespread in cities and towns of Russia. Branches with brown bark form a bush up to 1.5-1.7 m high. The leaves have sharp tips. Snow-white inflorescences, fluffy due to numerous long stamens, bloom in July. Wilted shields are cut off in August so that the plant does not waste energy on producing seeds, and the branches become stronger. In spring, meadowsweet is cleared of frozen and broken branches and a silhouette is formed. Starting from the age of 4, the bush is periodically cut down to 30 cm above the ground every few years.

Pruning spirea Bride

The favorite spring-flowering plant in many gardens in April is only cleared of frozen tops and thinned out. Spiraea Vangutta, this is the species name of the people's favorite, can grow up to 3 m, with the same crown diameter. Flowers bloom on drooping branches in a picturesque white waterfall. For this spirea, summer pruning begins after flowering. Each long shoot is shortened by half. Branched branches - one third. In spring, the bush is rejuvenated by getting rid of trunks older than 7 years.

Pruning Spiraea Thunberg

This species is similar to Spiraea Wangutta, but its flowers are not as fluffy because the stamens are smaller and shorter. The shoots appear longer and more graceful. And it blooms earlier, when there are no leaves on the branches yet. Apply formative pruning of spring spirea after flowering, from June.

Pruning Spiraea Macrophila

For a powerful, up to 1.3-1.5 m, and fast-growing species with large, bright leaves, early spring pruning is applicable. The variety is magnificent; not only are the pink flowers that bloom in July decorative, but also the leaves are 15-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide.

In spring the foliage takes on a somewhat reddish hue, and in autumn it turns golden-purple. There is one subtlety when pruning a plant. When an adult bush is cut off at the ground, leaving only 7-12 cm of trunks, the upper foliage of the growing shoots will be colored burgundy-red. After 3-4 years, all shoots are periodically shortened in April or May to 30 cm above the soil.

How to prune willow spirea

A short, up to 1-1.2 m, bush of this type of meadowsweet with narrow leaves captivates with white and pink paniculate inflorescences, up to 20 cm in length, which bloom in summer. Pruning of willow spirea is standard, as for all summer-flowering species, in April.

Spiraea - should it be pruned for the winter?

Spiraea is an ornamental flowering shrub that belongs to the Rosaceae family and grows primarily in the northern hemisphere in the temperate climate zone.

There are up to 25 of its representatives in Russia. The plant attracts both amateur gardeners and professional landscape designers with its beauty and ease of care.

This article will tell you whether it is necessary to prune spirea for winter and other seasons.

Pruning spirea is a necessary part of care

There are several types of spirea pruning, each of which has its own purpose. The three main ones are rejuvenating, stimulating and aesthetic (giving a bush or hedge the desired shape).

Spiraea responds very well to pruning, so it should be done regularly. Regardless of the variety and flowering time, “trimmed” plants give visible growth and bloom more luxuriantly. If you cut off shoots that have already bloomed in July, the bush may delight you with secondary flowering in early autumn.

Neglecting care will lead to sloppiness and unpresentable appearance of the spirea. In addition, an overgrown bush becomes weak and almost no new buds are formed on it. Therefore, the benefits, and even the need, of circumcision are obvious:

• the bush becomes lush;
• there are more flowers on it;
• you can give the plant the desired shape;
• a thinned bush receives more light;
• the risk of diseases and pest attacks is noticeably reduced.

Experts say that it is almost impossible to spoil a plant by pruning, so even novice amateurs should not be afraid to do it.



Pruning spirea in autumn

It is relevant for adult plants that have reached three to five years of age. Pruning is done a couple of weeks before the onset of frost - during this time the wounds will dry out and heal, and the plant will gain strength to survive the winter.

The stimulation operation is carried out with pruning shears. Old, unhealthy branches are cut off almost at the root. On the remaining shoots, five buds are left. In the spring, the plant will expel young shoots. In addition to stimulating growth, the crown is thinned in this way.

Bushes that have “crossed” the seven-year mark rejuvenate in the fall. To do this, all shoots are cut to 30 cm from the ground. In the spring, young branches will begin to grow, and the spirea will quickly restore its volume and beauty. In addition to rejuvenation, this also achieves a cosmetic effect - a plant that is not pruned in time loses its attractiveness, because old branches begin to bend towards the ground and spoil the whole view.

Pruning spirea Vangutta

The timing of pruning also depends on the flowering time of the spirea. The Vangutta variety is an early flowering variety, so it is recommended to prune it immediately after the flowers fall off. At the same time, weak and intertwined branches are cut out.

The autumn procedure is mandatory. It consists of completely (at the root) removal of a fourth or fifth of all shoots. Spring pruning is also necessary if the winter was cold and the plant froze.

Then, before the leaves form, the dead tips of the branches are removed.

Spiraea japonica

Pruning Japanese spirea

The flowering period of this species of spirea occurs in the summer. In the first year, flowers form on growing shoots, the next year the side shoots bloom, and the tops of the old ones dry out. Therefore, after three years, the top of the old branches is cut off so that the bush does not lose its shape and does not begin to droop towards the ground.

Since the plant blooms late, it is recommended to cut it at the beginning of the season. Pruning is done to the buds. Weak shoots are removed. To rejuvenate the bush, it needs to be cut very short periodically. To prevent the plant from becoming depleted, pruning is done as the flowers die.

Pruning spirea in spring

Spring pruning of spirea is in the nature of prevention and recovery. First of all, dead branches, as well as those that have dried out during the winter, are pruned.

The purpose of the procedure is, among other things, the formation of the crown, although it is recommended to improve the hedge in the fall in the second year after planting. The main rule of spring manipulation: pruning is done before the leaves begin to form.

In addition, bushes that bloom in spring are pruned as individual branches finish flowering.

For all its unpretentiousness, spirea, like any other garden plant, requires care. The complex process includes fertilizing, watering, mulching, weeding and, without fail, spring and autumn pruning. The work put into it will lead to an excellent result - the skillful hands of the gardener will give it the desired shape, and the shrub will delight you with elegant flowering.

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Care after pruning

After removing branches or parts of shoots, meadowsweet is watered abundantly and fed while mulching, using peat or compost. After summer pruning, the bush is maintained with a mixture of organic matter and minerals. Mullein is prepared in a ratio of 1:5. Add 10 g of superphosphate, already diluted in a liter of hot water and left for 24 hours, to the bucket of mullein infusion. 10 liters of liquid fertilizer is poured under 1 bush. The day before fertilizing, water the bush so that the nutrients penetrate into the damp soil and are quickly absorbed by the roots. Some time after applying fertilizing, the tree trunk circle is shed with another bucket of water if the soil is not sufficiently moistened. Sawdust or composted leaves are suitable as mulch.

Common mistakes in pruning spirea in autumn

There are some mistakes that gardeners make when growing spirea. One of the common ones is that in the fall fertilizers containing nitrogen are applied under the bush. They promote the active growth of greenery and new branches, which is extremely undesirable in the fall. If you need to use fertilizers, you should choose ones containing potassium and phosphorus.

The second common mistake is late watering, carried out immediately before sheltering for winter . This cannot be done, because if the moisture is not absorbed and assimilated, and the plant is covered with covering material or film, the process of root rotting will begin. Therefore, the last watering before sheltering for the winter is carried out 20 days in advance.

Description and varieties

French breeders bred this species in the second half of the 19th century by crossing Cantonese and three-lobed spirea. Gardeners immediately fell in love with it, and have not lost popularity since then. Spiraea Vangutta is a spherical shrub with numerous spreading branches. The leaves are round, obovate, with finely toothed edges, dark green in color, and bluish-green on the underside. In autumn they turn red-orange in color.

At the moment of abundant flowering, the shoots cascade towards the ground. It blooms in spring, from mid-May, in June - depending on the region of growth. But it may re-bloom slightly in August. At the moment of abundant flowering, the shoots cascade towards the ground. Spiraea flowers are small, bright white, clustered in numerous, dense hemispherical inflorescences.

It is characterized by shade tolerance, unpretentiousness and high growth energy. The species is frost-resistant, but if the temperature drops significantly, the tips of young branches may freeze. Widely used by landscape designers and simple gardeners to decorate summer cottages and create hedges. Suitable for planting in mixed groups and as a single plant. It prefers fertile, loose, well-drained soil with neutral acidity, but can grow successfully in different types of soil.

Gold Fontaine

Spiraea Gold Fountain appeared as a result of a mutation of Spiraea Wangutta. It has more pronounced decorative qualities. This is a compact, graceful deciduous shrub with a spherical shape. The shoots are orange-reddish, spreading, arched, up to 1.2 meters high. Spiraea grows up to 1.5 meters in width. Gold Fontaine is growing quite slowly. During the season, the growth is only 15-20 centimeters.

Young foliage turns orange-red in spring; in summer, its color changes to a spectacular deep yellow. The leaves are oval, slightly lobed, with a glossy sheen. A prerequisite for preserving decorative, golden foliage is planting in open sun. When grown in the shade it turns green.

The flowers of Gold Fontaine spirea are numerous, small, white, grouped in hemispherical inflorescences. They have a persistent fragrant, honey aroma. This is truly a golden fountain in the garden. Excellent for forming hedges, in solo and group compositions, together with conifers and other deciduous plants. Spiraea Gold Fontain is used by landscape designers for urban landscaping. It is characterized by high frost resistance. This variety can be grown in any type of soil.

Pink Ice

Spiraea Pink Ice is a compact shrub with original, variegated foliage and strongly drooping red branches. The plant is spherical in shape, the height and width of the bush are similar - from 1.5 to 2.0 meters. Young leaves are creamy white, less often pinkish. As they grow, they acquire a pale green color, with abundant cream spots appearing.

Pink Ice spirea blooms in May-June. Numerous small white flowers bloom on it. They are collected in dense, beautiful, hemispherical inflorescences that tightly cover the shoots. Looks impressive in contrasting compositions, for example, with barberry. Grows well in soils without stagnant water, with acidity ranging from slightly acidic to alkaline. Good frost resistance, but at very low temperatures the tips of young shoots may freeze.

Diseases and pests and their control

All types of spirea are not often attacked by various pests, but sometimes it happens. Let's get to know some of them.

Spider mite

Perhaps the most formidable among them is the spider mite, since in one growing season 8 to 10 generations of this pest can appear. Whitish paniculate spots appear on the surface of the leaves on which the spider mite has settled. Then the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off. The number of spider mites increases especially noticeably from July to August (during hot and dry summers).

To combat this pest, arex (0.2 percent solution), metaphos, fozalon, keltan and phosphamide are used.

Aphid

Also, quite a lot of damage is caused by aphids, which feed on the sap of leaves, peduncles and tender young shoots. It is especially dangerous from June to mid-August.

This pest can be destroyed with solutions of pirimor, actellik, kronefos, fozalon. In case of minor damage, folk remedies will also help, such as tincture of tobacco, capsicum, onion, garlic, and soap solution.

Diseases

In addition to pests, spirea can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold and various spots.

. For treatment, fungicidal preparations are used, such as foundationazole, phytosporin-m, ditan m-45, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur.

Often your attention in city flower beds is attracted by a small ornamental shrub with crimson flowers and yellowish foliage. This is Japanese spirea

It has taken its rightful place in decorating city flower beds and summer cottages due to its low cost, unpretentiousness and preservation of decorative qualities from spring to late autumn.

Growing a bush

Despite all its endurance and unpretentiousness, spirea prefers planting in well-lit areas. And, of course, it shows the best results when grown on loose, well-drained soils.

What should the soil be like?

Prefers fertile, loose, drained soil with neutral acidity. But spirea can develop successfully in different types of soil. With high soil density, digging a larger planting hole is required. It is advisable to pour a drainage layer of crushed stone, expanded clay, and small pieces of brick at the bottom.

How to plant spirea correctly in the fall

This ornamental shrub looks great both individually and in group plantings. For example, it is often used as a hedge. Before planting, you need to choose a suitable place, and also stock up on a sufficient amount of planting material.

Preparing the landing site

Planted spirea will feel good in an open, well-lit area with loose soil. It must be taken into account that partial shade has a good effect on this plant; it feels better in such conditions and produces brighter flowers, but their number will be less than when grown in open areas.

Sand or peat is often added to loosen the soil. These plants cannot tolerate excess moisture, so wetlands are not suitable for planting them. Coniferous trees get along best with spirea as neighbors.

Preparation of planting material

As a rule, seedlings of this shrub are sold in nurseries or specialized stores. Their root system must be closed, that is, the seedling must have a lump of earth on its roots. It is preferable that it be young and have no leaves, since their presence negatively affects the survival rate of the plant. If the root system of the seedling is open, it must be inspected. The roots should be moist, flexible, without blackness. It is welcome if they are covered with a mixture of manure and clay. The bark of the seedlings should be green and the buds should be alive and healthy.

Rules for planting spirea in autumn in open ground

In autumn, it is allowed to plant spirea for both spring and summer flowering periods. It is better to do this in damp rainy weather, so the plants take root better. The planting hole must be prepared several days before planting. Its size should exceed the volume of the root system along with the lump of earth. The walls of the pit are made vertical. A layer of drainage made of broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone must be laid at the bottom.

Then an earthen mound is poured in the center of the pit. A seedling is installed on it. If the root system is open, the roots of the seedling are spread along the walls of the earthen mound, and then sprinkled halfway with soil. After this, add a bucket of water to the hole and finally fill it up. The soil is slightly compacted, and a bead of earth is placed around the seedling to prevent water from spreading during watering. After this, the root zone is mulched with peat or humus.

How to transplant spirea to a new place

Spiraea that has not reached 4 years of age can be safely transplanted to another place in the fall. The easiest way to do this is to dig it up along with a lump of earth on the roots, and then plant it in another place. The root system of older bushes is already quite developed, so replanting an adult spirea in the fall will be fraught with certain difficulties. In this case, often not the entire bush is replanted, but only part of it.

Planting process and scheme

When planting spirea seedlings with an open root system (ORS), especially large-sized specimens, it is important to observe the planting deadlines. Autumn is the optimal time for this. It can be planted from the beginning to the end of September, in some cases until mid-October, depending on the region of the country. The main conditions for successful transplantation are absence of heat, cloudy weather and high soil moisture.

If there is little rain in the fall, it is necessary to provide frequent watering after planting. They are also planted in early spring, before the start of sap flow in the shoots. But seedlings with a closed root system (ZRS) are planted throughout the season. If the soil at the planting site is suitable - loose, well-drained, then the size of the planting hole will be 25-30% larger than the root of the transplanted plant. And the depth of the hole is 40-50 centimeters.

But if the soil is clayey, heavy, and if water stagnation is possible, then the size of the planting hole will be 2-3 times larger than the root spirea. After digging, the planting holes are filled with specially prepared substrate. Here is a description of the universal soil mixture:

• 1 part of clean river sand, preferably coarse-grained;
• 1 part neutral peat;
• 2 parts of turf or leaf soil;
• 1 part well-rotted manure.

The distance between Vangutta spirea bushes depends on the beginning of flowering and the purpose of planting. Spireas that bloom in summer are planted in group plantings at a distance of 0.5-0.7 meters from each other. When creating a hedge, plants are planted at a distance of 40-50 centimeters. When placed in 2 rows, the row spacing is 30-40 centimeters.

Spring-flowering varieties are placed more freely. To create a hedge, the distance between spirea is 0.7-1.0 meters. And when creating group plantings - 1.0-1.5 meters. A day before planting, the root spirea is soaked in a solution of growth stimulator and fungicide. When planting, a substrate is poured onto the bottom of the hole, a seedling is placed on it, and the roots are carefully straightened. Then the hole is filled with the remaining substrate, the soil is lightly compacted and water is spilled abundantly.

Spiraea Vangutta in landscape design

Garden designers are attracted by the high decorative qualities of the plant, its spherical crown and abundant flowering. Spiraea Vangutta is used for single and group plantings, complex compositions, and also as borders and hedges. The Vangutta spirea bush looks impressive on a green lawn, near fountains and pools. It reliably decorates unsightly outbuildings and dilapidated walls of houses. This type of spirea goes well with other plants, for example, spruce, fir, pine or maple.

Care instructions

Spiraea is not an overly whimsical plant, but for active growth, spectacular and abundant flowering, it is necessary to provide the necessary care. It consists of watering, fertilizing and timely pruning, as well as preventive protection from diseases and pests.

Watering and soil care

Regular weeding, as well as superficial loosening of the soil, will facilitate access of oxygen to the roots, and will also improve the wetness of the soil during watering and the absorption of fertilizers when fertilizing. When mulching the root zone of spirea, there is no need for loosening and weeding. But it is important to monitor the thickness of the mulch; its layer should be at least 10 centimeters.

The plant does not tolerate stagnant water in the root area, so the gardener determines the frequency of watering himself, depending on the composition of the soil. But, basically, the bushes are watered generously 3-4 times a month, and even more often during periods of extreme heat. Care also involves generously spraying the crown, which has a beneficial effect on the growth of spirea.

Feeding and fertilizing the plant

With a planting hole of the required size, filled with a truly nutritious substrate, the spirea does not need to be fertilized at all for the first year. In subsequent years, one treatment per season will be sufficient - with complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. And, of course, mulching the tree trunk with organic matter, in particular, rotted manure.

Pruning Spiraea

For abundant, beautiful flowering, plants form a crown and also carry out sanitary cleaning. All diseased, dried out, old twigs, leaves and inflorescences are periodically removed. But for successful wintering, all pruning procedures are carried out before the onset of cold weather.

The number of prunings for decorative crown formation is 2-4 per season, depending on the growth energy. Spiraea tolerates pruning well. When pruning, the gardener must remember that spirea blooms on the shoots of the second year. And it is important not to overdo it; if necessary, you need to leave 1-2 strong buds on the shoot.

Diseases and pests

First of all, it is necessary to maintain the overall health of the plants. But if agricultural practices are not followed, spirea becomes more susceptible to diseases and pests. Damage by aphids, sawflies, and gall midges is possible. For prevention and direct control of them, spraying with a solution of insecticides is used - Aktara, Aktellik, Enzhio.

High humidity and acidification of the soil can provoke an outbreak of fungal diseases. To combat them, systemic fungicides are used - Infinito, Falcon or contact copper-containing preparations, such as Medyan Extra.

Reproduction of Spiraea

The shrub is propagated by cuttings, sowing seeds and rooting. Spiraea seeds germinate poorly; it is advisable to use only fresh seed. In the conditions of a summer house and garden plot, for propagation, it is preferable to dig up and root root shoots in pots.

Therefore, for mass production of seedlings, propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is used. To root cuttings, the following conditions must be met:

• the length of the cuttings is on average 15-20 centimeters;
• removing leaves 3/4 of the length of the cutting;
• soaking for a day in a solution of a growth stimulator or dusting the cut before planting;
• using a rooting substrate consisting of non-acidic peat and agroperlite;
• rooting cuttings in a mini greenhouse or greenhouse;
• regular spraying of cuttings or creating “fog”.

Subtleties of growing ornamental shrubs

The right place for planting is the key to successful cultivation of meadowsweet. The duration and intensity of flowering depend on the amount of sunlight received, so the Vangutta spirea seedling should be planted in an area open to the sun.

Preparation of planting material and site

High-quality planting material can be purchased at gardening nurseries. In this case, the plant must be inspected for the presence of mechanical damage to the shoots, traces of the presence of insects and signs of disease. The cut of the shoot should have a light green tint, the root shoot should be milky white.

Before planting, remove dry and damaged roots. The root of the seedling is first dipped into a container of water, then into a clay mash with the addition of a root formation biostimulator. You can use the drugs "Kornevin", "Heteroauxin" or "Epin".

The planting area is first cleared of weeds and other vegetation. Soil disinfection is carried out using a weak solution of potassium permanganate. If the soil is depleted, it is recommended to increase its fertility. For example, you can use a soil mixture of leaf and turf soil, peat and humus. All components are taken in equal quantities, wood ash (no more than 1 kg) and superphosphates (20–30 g) are added to them.

Recommendations for planting

Spiraea Wangutta can be planted in open ground in spring and autumn. According to experienced gardeners, autumn planting is better, since the seedling has time to get stronger over the winter.

Holes for planting seedlings are prepared in advance. The bottom is laid out with drainage materials, then a nutrient soil mixture is laid. When planting, make sure that there is no damage or creases in the root shoots.

The distances between the holes depend on the chosen spirea planting scheme. For example, when forming a hedge, we recommend maintaining an interval of 1–1.5 m. Author’s advice

General rules for planting spirea Vangutta seedlings

How to propagate

The seed propagation method of spirea Vangutta is used extremely rarely. Most often, the crop is propagated by dividing the bush or by cuttings.

At the end of the flowering stage, cuttings are cut. The average length of the cutting is 15 cm. It should have several leaves and healthy buds. The cuttings are buried in a nutrient substrate, covered with a glass cap and placed in a greenhouse. Periodically, the plants are ventilated and irrigated. The cuttings are planted in the ground next spring.

The propagation algorithm by dividing a bush is very simple. When the bush fades, it needs to be carefully dug up. The root system is cleared of clods of earth and divided into several equal parts. At the same time, the root is inspected for traces of rot and other damage. Injured and rotten roots must be cut back to living tissue.

Watering and fertilizing

Spiraea Vangutta is highly drought-resistant. The plant needs frequent and abundant watering only during hot and dry periods.

Please note that the top layer of soil must be dry. If there is excess moisture in the soil, the bush loses its decorative effect.

Unlike other beautifully flowering crops, meadowsweet does not require frequent feeding. Deciduous shrubs are fed once a season. Mineral complex compounds or superphosphate are added to the pre-moistened soil.

Pruning after flowering

The next stage of care is pruning the bushes. The formation of the crown is carried out after flowering. The plant can be shaped into a ball, rectangle, triangle and other options.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the fall. At this stage, dry branches and shoots damaged by weather or insects are removed.

Scheme of rejuvenating pruning of ornamental shrubs

Do I need to cover it for the winter?

Spiraea Vangutta is a winter-hardy ornamental shrub. There are cases where meadowsweet has withstood air temperatures as low as -40 °C. We can conclude that Vangutta is suitable for cultivation in the northern and central regions of Russia.

Fertilizer and feeding of spirea Vangutta: timing and composition

For all its beauty, Spiraea Vangutta is absolutely not a capricious plant. Fertilizing for this crop is carried out only once per season (usually in the spring) with complex fertilizers. For better flowering of ornamental bushes, double superphosphate should be added when preparing the nutrient soil.

Before flowering, feed the spirea. This will be enough for the whole season

Granular fertilizer is slowly absorbed by the roots, guaranteeing abundant flowering the next year after planting.

Varieties of shrubs of the genus Spiraea

All plants of the genus Spiraea can be divided into two large groups: spring- and summer-flowering. The former bloom profusely, but do not last long. Shrubs of the second group do not bloom at the same time, but for two months. The flowers have more saturated shades. Low-growing varieties are often used to decorate alpine slides.

Spring-flowering varieties

Spring-flowering varieties begin to bloom in mid-May. Their peculiarity is that they are all white. Shades may vary, but the color is white. Plants begin to bloom in the second year of life and bush heavily. The most popular types of shrubs are:

Spiraea gray. The plant received this name not because of the color of the petals (they are white, like all spring-flowering species), but because of the gray-green color of the leaves. This is the most common type of spirea. Flowering period is from May to mid-June. Inflorescences are located along the entire length of the shoot.

The gray spirea "Grefsheim" receives special attention from gardeners. The plant reaches 1.5-2 m, has a spreading crown and boiling-white flowers up to 1 cm in diameter, collected in umbrella inflorescences.

Gray spirea Grefsheim “gets along” well with Nippon spirea and arguta, broom, viburnum, and conifers

Spiraea Vangutta. This hybrid of Cantonese and three-lobed spirea reaches 2 m. The flowers are small - up to 0.6 cm, collected in hemispherical inflorescences. The leaves, dark green above and dull gray below, turn reddish in autumn. This variety can bloom twice - in early June and in August.

Spiraea arguta. The bushes of the plant reach 1.5-2 m and have a beautiful shape. During flowering (from late May to mid-June), Spiraea arguta looks like a white fragrant waterfall.

Summer-flowering varieties

Their inflorescences appear at the ends of young shoots. At the same time, last year's branches die off. Summer-flowering species are represented by varieties of Japanese spirea, loosestrife, Bloomalda and others. The flowers may be pink or red.

First, let's talk about Japanese spirea. Its bushes reach 1-1.5 m in height. The leaves are green above and dull gray below, oblong, ovate; in autumn they turn yellow or red. The flowers are pink-red, collected in paniculate-corymbose inflorescences. The plant blooms for up to 45 days. The following varieties are common:

• "Shirobana." Distinctive features of the variety are small leaves (2 cm) and white or pink flowers. Blooms in July-August.
• "Goldflame". The leaves of the shrub change color depending on the time of year - from yellow to copper-orange. Blooms with red-pink small flowers.
• "Crispa." Blooms from July until the end of summer. The flowers are small, pale pink, collected in flat umbels.
• "Little Princesses". Low-growing (up to 0.6 m), slowly growing variety. The flowers are large - up to 4 cm in diameter, red-pink, collected in corymbose inflorescences. The plant blooms in mid-summer - June-July.
• "Golden Princesses" This is one of the varieties of "Little Princesses". The variety is distinguished by its higher bush height - up to 1 m, and yellow leaves.

Japanese spirea is one of the most common, but far from the only summer-flowering species. Also deservedly popular are:

• Spiraea Boumalda. This is a hybrid species. Plants reach a height of 0.5-0.8 m, have erect shoots and very beautiful leaves - green in summer, and yellow, red with a purple tint in autumn. The flowers are pink.
• Among the Bumald spireas, the most common variety is “Goldflame”. The shrub reaches a height of 0.8 m. If the plant is planted in the sun, its leaves change color depending on the season - from delicate golden-orange to copper-red. The leaves of bushes planted in the shade do not undergo such changes.
• Spiraea willow leaf. The variety is distinguished by long pointed leaves (up to 10 cm) and white or pink flowers. Inflorescences can reach a length of 20 cm.
• Spiraea Douglas. Flowering period – July-September. The flowers are dark pink. The bushes grow up to 1.5 m tall.
• Spiraea Billarda. This is a hybrid of the willow spirea and Douglas. The bushes are tall - up to 2 m. The flowers are pink, collected in long inflorescences. Blooms from mid-summer until frost.

Even before the final choice of the location for planting the shrub, you should decide on the desired size and type of plant. Varieties vary in size: they can be compact and fit in a small area, or they can grow upwards and to the sides. Therefore, for solitary planting, design of hedges and alpine slides, different types of plants are chosen.

Spiraea “Little Princess” looks great in combination with other varieties of spirea, conifers, and lavender. This type is suitable for decorating flower beds, rock gardens, and areas near ponds

Interesting varieties with photos

The following varieties of spirea Vangutta are especially popular among gardeners and landscape designers.

Gold Fontaine

A light-loving and easy-to-care ornamental shrub. Spiraea Gold Fountain is distinguished by the color of its leaf blades - the variety is characterized by a juicy yellow-green hue. Peak flowering occurs in mid-May. Due to its high decorative qualities it can be used for solitaire and composition plantings.

Snow White

The Snow White variety, bred by Canadian breeders, is used to form mixborders and create low-growing hedges. The average height of the bush is only 1.5 m, the crown diameter is no more than 1.8 m.

White bride

Spiraea White Bride is an ideal option for forming a hedge. The height of an adult bush does not exceed 2 m. The plant is not demanding in terms of growing conditions and care. Closer to autumn, the leaves acquire a beautiful yellowish tint.

Renaissance

Gardeners in Siberia and the Urals highly appreciated the Renaissance meadowsweet. Decorative crops are not afraid of even extreme drops in temperature. Can overwinter without additional winter shelter.

Pink Ice

The Pink Ice variety, or Pink Ice, is distinguished by its unusual leaf color: there are beige spots on the creamy white and greenish surfaces. Young foliage has a soft pink color. The bush blooms with snow-white buds.

Where is the best place to plant

Most spireas love sun, good soil and moderate humidity. In nature, they are part of deciduous and mixed forests, filling the edges and gaps among the trees. Some species thrive on mountain slopes, including screes, covering the altitude range from the foothills to the subalpine belt. There are species, for example, willow spirea, which prefer to settle closer to the water and grow along the banks of rivers, lakes or along the edges of swamps.

Spiraea vangutta is distinguished not only by its beauty, but also by its unpretentiousness. It is frost-resistant and can grow in conditions of contrasting seasonal temperatures. Tolerates strong winds, but only if they are not too frequent. In relation to moisture, it is more drought-resistant than moisture-loving. So this plant needs to be planted in well-lit areas, on slopes or hills where light sandy soil has formed.

To diversify your garden design and bring even more color to it, use different types of shrubs with different flowering times. Here are the options we offer - read.

The decorative properties of this spirea can be used to form the following landscape elements:

• hedges, both around the perimeter of the site and inside it;
• the central element of the composition in combination with a flower garden of low-growing plants;
• cannons near a group of coniferous trees;
• composition framing the entrance to the house.

Spiraea Vangutta "Gold Fountain".

Spiraea Wangutta, like a weeping willow, is notable for its spreading, arched branches that bend downward. Spiraea Wangutta is classified as a spring-flowering plant. Blooms for several weeks.

Preparing for winter

Spiraea Vangutta is a frost-resistant plant. And the bush can freeze completely if the temperature drops for a long time – 45°C and below. But such frosts are rare in the middle regions. Therefore, gardeners do not prepare shrubs for winter. Just mulch the tree trunk area!

But in the northern regions, decorative crops are insulated for the winter. Especially young plants.

To cover them, the branches of the bushes are tied into a bundle, and then wrapped in non-woven material or covered with spruce branches.

Spiraea Wangutta: combination with other plants

Spiraea Vangutta is covered with flowers in the spring, at the same time as varietal lilacs. When planting spirea next to lilac bushes, a decorative effect is achieved: snow-white flowers create a second blooming tier.

Considering that lilac varieties often bloom at the ends of tall bushes, this combination helps to enhance the decorative effect of the composition. The white flowers of the spirea highlight the contrast with the purple color of the lilac tassels.

Bushes of flowering spirea look great next to decorative deciduous and coniferous plants.

Spiraea in landscape design

Features of spirea reproduction

The shrub reproduces both generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively (by cuttings, layering, dividing the bush). The first method is labor-intensive. It is used mainly by breeders when they are working on developing new varieties. When propagated by seeds, planting material is collected in the fall, sown in special trays with soil and germinated under a perforated film. Planting sprouts in open ground can be done in the spring. The soil should be well fertilized.

Generative propagation is recommended only for spireas of the first group. Hybrid varieties do not produce full-fledged seed material. To check the germination of seeds, do a test sowing

Vegetative propagation can be of three types.

Option #1 - cuttings

For it, shoots 10-15 cm long without flowers are selected, treated with a fungicidal solution, after which they are ready for planting in the ground. It is best to plant spirea indoors. The soil is moistened, water is sprayed so that the air humidity is about 85%, and the cutting is covered with film.

The film is pre-prepared - holes are pierced to allow air to enter. Place it 30-40 cm from the planted cuttings.

Option #2 – propagation by layering

The simplest and most effective method. The survival rate of seedlings obtained using layering is very high. The branches of the spirea are bent, attached to the ground and covered with soil. The branches take root quite quickly, after which they can be cut off from the bush and the finished seedling can be replanted.

Option #3 – dividing the bush

This manipulation is usually carried out in autumn or spring. If you need to divide the bush in the spring, then you should choose the period before the first buds appear. Spring propagation of spirea has both significant advantages and disadvantages.

The advantage is the plant’s rapid start to growth, the disadvantage is the increased risk of infection of the root system due to warm weather. To solve this problem, seedlings are soaked in a fungicidal solution.

Spiraea Wangutta requirements for soil and planting site

Truly abundant flowering of the Vangutta spirea can be achieved only if the plants receive enough sunlight. If a spirea hedge or free-standing shrubs are in the shade, you should not expect a scattering of white flowers on the shoots. Otherwise, the plant is unpretentious and does not require special care about the planting site. Growing and caring for spirea can be further simplified if you create optimal conditions for the growth of the shrub.

Like all members of the family, Spiraea Vangutta prefers loose, well-drained soils with a moderate amount of nutrients and acidity from 6 to 7 units.

The best soil is a mixture of two parts turf soil, one part sand and the same volume of low-lying peat:

• Peat or sand is added to dense loamy soils or black soil before planting spirea.
• Poor organic sandy loams are enriched with humus and mineral additives.
• Excessively acidic soil on the site must be deoxidized.

Application in landscape

At a summer cottage, spirea Vangutta is often planted near bodies of water, especially with a weeping crown shape, which harmonizes with the water and gives the bush a spectacular appearance during flowering. A good combination of this perennial with coniferous crops, for example, thujas and spruces.

Landscape experts recommend different options that will allow the beautifully flowering perennial shrub to look most advantageous on the site:

• Spiraea Wangutta in landscape design in the middle of a flower bed, in an alpine hill, among inhospitable boulders or in the center of a parterre lawn;
• as a living and beautiful fence that can replace a fence or zone a site. Shrubs can be used to grow both clipped and free-growing hedges of varying heights;
• as decoration for unsightly places in the garden;
• in group compositions among other shrubs. For example, among lilac, jasmine;
• become a decoration for a recreation area or sports ground;
• tall varieties can create shade near a gazebo, arch or pergola.

Of course, these are just a few options for decorating a dacha. Having shown your imagination, it is easy to create any original composition by planting Vangutta spirea varieties that bloom at different times in one area.

Larisa Nikolaevna Shirko

A gardener with extensive experience ready to answer the most difficult questions

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Is it necessary to prune spirea Wangutta, since it blooms on last year’s shoots and sets buds last season? Let's take a closer look at the pruning situation. 1) Most of the spireas that bloom in spring require only sanitary, so-called. cosmetic trimming. Weak, old and frozen branches in winter are removed;

2) Most early-flowering species of these plants grow many shoots that must be removed so as not to get an impenetrable thicket;

3) Single bushes need to create a strong skeleton. To do this, cut off ¼ of the shoots at ground level in the fall;

4) The bush is trimmed starting at the end of August. It's important not to overdo it. Future flowers have already been laid and therefore annual growth is cut off by only 1/3, which stimulates tillering and subsequent flowering;

5) Unbranched branches of Vangutta spirea are cut by 1/2, cutting off 1/3 of the growth at each fork.

Recommendation! In spring, pruning should not be carried out, otherwise you can lose a lot of inflorescences. In spring, only frozen tips and stems broken by snow are cut off.

Plant care

Planting and care are carried out in the following sequence:

1. Preparation of the bush. Transplanting a plant means creating a stressful situation for it. Remove anything that will prevent the plant from recovering from stress. Trim excess shoots, leave only the main shoot, shortening it to 30-50 cm. If there are young shoots on the bush, then most of them should be removed, leaving only 1-2. If the roots are too thick and long, they need to be trimmed a little.
2. Preparing the pit. The planting hole should be relatively large. This is necessary in order to form a layer of fertilizers and drainage, which will ensure the cultivation of spirea in comfortable conditions. As drainage, you can lay a layer of dry or green grass without roots and seeds at the bottom of the hole. At first, this grass will absorb and accumulate water, then it will become humus. However, the seedling also needs quick fertilizers, so you need to put humus and some mineral fertilizers on the grass layer.
3. Soil and watering. The soil for filling the hole must be mixed with sand, dry leaves or compost. You need to make a small depression around the seedling for easy watering. The first watering must be done with warm water. The space around the seedling needs to be mulched. It is best to use dry leaves for these purposes.

Planting and care are aimed at creating all the conditions for the plant to bloom abundantly. In order for the white cap of flowers to please the eye year after year, you don’t need much - trimming, watering and fertilizing.

Growing spirea vangutta requires at least 1 feeding per season. It is better if it is watered with a warm solution of mineral fertilizers with the addition of a little rotted manure.

Spiraea flowers are pure white in dense hemispherical inflorescences, the buds densely cover the arched shoot of the bush.

Spiraea grows quickly, is frost and heat resistant, and the bush tolerates pruning well.

The crown must be pruned every year. This is not about a decorative haircut, but about pruning in order to stimulate the growth of new shoots. Remove old branches that did not bloom profusely this year. It is also worth removing those shoots that rise too much above the entire crown. In the spring, you need to remove branches that cannot withstand frost.

Growing any plant, including ornamental ones, is always associated with the fight against insect pests.

Spiraea vangutta has few enemies, but they still exist. She may be affected:

• meadowsweet blue sawfly;
• kidney gall midge;
• aphids;

How to grow Spiraea vangutta in the garden?

Creating a garden collection on your own site is not just a hobby.
This is also a meditative practice... Creating a garden collection on your own plot is not just a hobby. This is both a meditative practice and learning the basics of landscape design, as well as a fascinating search for interesting plants that can decorate the garden. Passionate gardeners should consider purchasing a shrub such as Spiraea Vangutta, because with this plant the garden will sparkle with new colors.

Description of species and varieties

It’s worth starting your acquaintance with this ornamental shrub with a description of the Wangutta spirea. It was bred by breeders back in the mid-19th century and over time has firmly gained popularity among gardeners. This was facilitated by the appearance of the plant, created by crossing three-lobed and Cantonese spirea.

The two-meter giant, reaching the same size in diameter during the flowering period, is covered with a cascade of inflorescences flowing from the top, emitting a wonderful aroma. It’s rare that anyone can remain indifferent to such beauty! The following varieties have been bred for Spiraea Vangutta:

1. Golden Fountain, or Gold Fontaine. The unusual creamy shade of the flowers gives the garden a pastel hue.
2. Renaissance. American gardeners have developed a disease-resistant variety.
3. Spiraea Vangutta white or Snow White. This variety is distinguished by its splendor and gigantic inflorescence diameter (up to 60 cm).
4. Pink Ice, or Pink Ice. As the inflorescences bloom, their color also changes from cream to lush pink.

Advice! If you plant several varieties of Vangutta spirea, the garden will play with extraordinary colors.

Homeland of the plant

The original habitat of the shrub is forest-steppe, forests and semi-deserts. It is found mainly in the wild in the Himalayas and North America. And since spirea is initially frost-resistant and undemanding to living conditions, it is quite easy to tame it and place it in your own garden.

Planting spirea Vangutta in open ground

Despite the unpretentiousness of the plant, it is still better to initially prepare good conditions for it so that the shrub has strong immunity.

Illumination of the landing site

First you need to choose a properly lit place where the bush will grow. You must adhere to the following rules:

1. Spiraea does not like directly directed sunlight.
2. Strong shading can negatively affect flowering.
3. It is advisable not to plant the bush in places where there are strong wind currents.

Therefore, light partial shade is best suited, and it can appear only during some part of the daylight hours. Such places usually appear near the facades of a house or barn, while spirea perfectly decorates all construction flaws.

Soil requirement

The following soils are best suited for spirea:

But at the same time, it will grow on depleted soils, and even on limestone ones. But the bush will respond gratefully to soil rich in organic matter. Therefore, before planting, it is best to fertilize the soil well with rotted cow manure. Soil acidity should vary around 6 – 7 ph. With other indicators, flowering will not be as abundant.

How to properly plant spirea in the garden?

In order for the shrub to take root well, you should adhere to the following rules when planting.

1. The root of the seedling must be treated with biofungicides, and then with a growth stimulator.
2. The soil mixture for planting is made according to the following recipe: 1 part garden soil, 1 part turf soil, 1 part compost, 1 part peat, ½ part fine sand, ½ ASG, one liter jar of ash, perlite.
3. A good layer of drainage must be laid at the bottom of the planting hole.
4. It is best to secure the seedling with cuttings at the planting site.
5. After planting spirea, the soil must be thickly mulched.
6. After all procedures, it is also necessary to water the bush abundantly.

Spiraea Wangutta: outdoor care

Proper planting and care of the plant in the future guarantee that the shrub will grow with good immunity and will delight with long and abundant flowering.

Watering, fertilizing and fertilizing. Although spirea calmly tolerates drought, if possible it is worth giving it water treatments.

1. Watering. It is best to water the plant with settled and, preferably, lukewarm water. Watering should be done in the evening hours. Spiraea responds well if vegetable sugar granules are added to the water.
2. Irrigation. If the weather is dry and hot, it would be a good idea to spray the bush with a hose once a week in the evening at sunset. Especially if it grows near a dusty road.

In the spring, before flowering begins, you need to apply organic fertilizer by watering, and then mulch the tree trunk with rotted manure. This feeding will provide the plant with a good supply of nutrients. The second time organic matter is added after flowering, and the third time in the fall, a few weeks before the onset of the dormant period. It is best to apply minerals and superphosphates in the fall, a week before frost.

Plant pruning. Every year, spirea must be subjected to sanitary pruning, completely removing dried and damaged shoots. But it is important to remember that the inflorescences are located along the entire length of the spirea branches, so the plant must be trimmed extremely carefully. If severe pruning is required on a newly planted shrub, then at least 8 to 10 strong shoots must be left. A spirea bush can bloom safely for about 18 - 20 years if you properly care for it and carry out annual pruning.

Care after flowering

After Spiraea Vangutta finishes flowering, it is necessary to process it correctly:

1. Remove weeds from the tree trunk circle.
2. Apply organic fertilizer.
3. Trim branches to strong buds.
4. Spray the plant with biofungicides.
5. For prevention, you should also spray with biofungicides, and a week later, repeat the procedure, but with drugs against pests.
6. Select branches for subsequent cuttings.
7. Replace the layer of mulch with a new one, but before this procedure the tree trunk circle must be left open for several days to ventilate the soil. The soil must first be loosened well.

Properly treated spirea after the flowering period over the summer will gain even more strength in order to become even more beautiful next year.

Plant propagation

Spiraea reproduces in two ways:

Both methods give good results, but when cuttings the shrub develops faster.

1. In order to get good cuttings, they need to be cut a couple of weeks after the bush has finished flowering. It is necessary to choose strong shoots.
2. The cuttings need to be rooted in a planting container in a mixture of sand and peat, taken in a 1:1 ratio.
3. It is best to completely immerse the shoots in a solution of biofungicides before planting, and then lower them into a growth stimulator.
4. The part on which root shoots should develop is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
5. After planting the cuttings in a planting container, it is transferred to a greenhouse where high air humidity is maintained.

It is important to note that it is best to move the cuttings to a cool and dark place during the dormant period, and then plant them in open ground in the spring. You can store the cuttings in the underground along with the bulbous ones.

Disease and pest control

The main enemies of spirea:

• Snails and slugs. A thick layer of mulch around the trunk will protect against them.
• Aphid. This pest can be controlled using Fitoverm.
• Sawfly. Removed by treatment with biofungicides.
• Rot and scab can be removed using Bordeaux mixture.

With a little effort, a gardener can create interesting compositions in his garden by planting a beautiful spirea.

Perennial pruning

Regular pruning of Vangutta spirea is an important agrotechnical manipulation during plant care. Thanks to pruning, you can form the desired crown and also stimulate the formation of inflorescences.

Autumn pruning is carried out from September to October, when the bush has completed flowering.

1. You will need to remove damaged, dry branches, shorten long branches and the tops of frozen shoots. This is how they prune so that in the spring the bush begins to develop with new vigor;
2. When pruning, you must remember that flowering is possible only on the branches of last year’s shoots, so they cannot be completely shortened;
3. In spring, sanitary pruning is carried out before sap flow begins;
4. If the perennial is more than 7 years old, then anti-aging pruning is carried out. In this case, all old and thickening branches of the bush that inhibit its growth are mercilessly removed.

Do not be afraid of drastic pruning - new shoots will appear next year, on which inflorescences will form in a year.

If radical pruning is not done to old bushes, they will become like thickets with few and small inflorescences.

When formative pruning of a bush, its width is also taken into account. The diameter of the crown of the Vangutta spirea is often greater than its height. When pruning shoots, take this fact into account. To form the desired crown, for example, a spherical one, it is necessary to remove part of the shoots that grow in width. Beginning gardeners use templates when cutting a shaping haircut to give the bush the required shape.

Planting technology and features of growing spirea

In regions where winters are quite harsh, gardeners have a hard time. Beautifully flowering, heat-loving plants can be too capricious, and providing them with suitable conditions is not so easy. In this case, summer residents should pay attention to spirea, its other name is meadowsweet. The shrub has good frost resistance and at the same time is able to transform the garden beyond recognition. Its large inflorescences of white, pink or lilac color fascinate with their beauty, and thin, graceful branches further emphasize the tenderness of meadowsweet. There are a lot of plant varieties, so growing spirea should begin with choosing the right variety.