Under natural conditions, cacti have adapted to survive in the heat and easily tolerate drought and sudden temperature changes. But even these plants can experience root rot. This is a consequence of excess moisture, caused by improper care and unsuitable conditions for maintenance. Cacti suffer from pests, viruses, infections and lack of sunlight. Often, infection begins from the bottom, and the owner notices late that the roots of the cactus have rotted and needs to be saved.
Damage to a flower from the inside
Rotting from the inside is the most severe form of damage. It is not always possible to determine in time that a cactus is rotting from the inside. Most often, such plants die (you can find out what can cause the death of a cactus and how to understand that a plant is dying here, and from this article you will learn how to save a plant).
Signs
On the body of the plant, small, slowly increasing spots are found, light or dark, depending on the type of disease (what diseases and pests can destroy the plant?). At the same time, internal damage significantly exceeds that visible on the outer surface. When you press on the affected area, you feel a softening of the body.
Why is this happening?
The main reasons why cacti rot from the inside may be the following.
Dry rot (fomoz). This is a fungal disease. The causative agent is the fungus Phoma rostrupin. The most dangerous because it is difficult to detect. Dry, light, slightly depressed spots resembling crusts appear on the plant. The spots themselves are covered with cracks. After pressing, the crust falls into a cavity in which all the internal tissues are turned into a dry mess.- Brown rot. The causative agent is pathogenic bacteria from the genus Erwinia. Foci of dark brown or brown color appear, primarily between the ribs of the cactus. The trunk of the plant softens and darkens.
- Rhizoctoniosis. Occurs as a result of infection with pathogenic fungi of the genus Rhizoctonia. Crops are mainly affected. The pathogen spreads through the feeding vessels inside the body of the cactus, causing wet rotting.
- Black rot (Alternaria blight). Caused by the fungi Alternaria radicina. Moist and shiny brown spots are found on the body of the plant. The disease progresses rapidly.
- High humidity in the room where the plant is kept. More often, excess moisture causes rotting of the roots and neck of the cactus, but it can also lead to rotting of the plant from the inside.
How to save?
When detecting areas of rotting on a plant, first of all, it is necessary to assess the depth of the lesions. To do this, the cactus is removed from the substrate, carefully examined and palpated.
- If the pathological lesions are not large, they are cut out to healthy tissue. The resulting wounds are treated with sulfur, coal or brilliant green. The cactus is dried for several days and planted in fresh soil (sand is best).
- If the body of the cactus is very soft and rotting is widespread along its entire perimeter, then cut off and leave only the healthy tip. It is dried and rooted, or grafted onto another cactus (read more about what to do if the cactus has become soft).
Treatment Options
The most difficult question is how to save a cactus if it begins to rot from below. If the succulent is affected by rot, you can use the following techniques to save it:
- removal of damaged parts and replanting in clean soil;
- rooting the crown of the stem.
If the rot has already spread to the stem, it is better to graft the plant.
For the treatment of succulents the following are used:
- Captan. The fungicide is useful against many fungi and bacteria. It is important not to use it together with lime.
- Fundazol. Fights fungi well.
- Colloidal sulfur. An effective drug in the treatment of fungal infections and the destruction of mites.
- Quinozol. Antifungal and antibacterial agent.
- Maksim. It disinfects the soil well. Used for cases of fusarium, fomosis, and wet rot.
- Topaz. Saves from rust and powdery mildew.
- Copper oxychloride. Used for late blight, spotting, anthracnose, rust, bacteriosis.
- Fitosporin. A remedy against fungal and bacterial infections. Particularly good for prevention or in the initial stages of the disease.
If a cactus becomes infected with dry rot, the plant will disappear. Since it will not be possible to revive the cactus, the disease is easier to prevent.
Removing stains on a cactus using surgery is not very effective. This can only be done with branched varieties. The scars themselves disfigure the plant, but the process of spreading the disease does not stop. The disease can be contained or completely stopped by treating with fungicides.
Cutting off the roots
If the roots are rotting, only cutting off the damaged areas will help. Since it is impossible to save the cactus otherwise. After this, the plant is kept in a weak solution of manganese (about 30 minutes), the sections are sprinkled with coal powder, dried and planted in disinfected soil.
It is not recommended to water the flower in the next 3 weeks.
Replanting a cactus
What to do if the cactus is rotting from below? If a flower is damaged, you should try to replant it. The pot and soil must be new and disinfected.
To transplant a plant:
- pulled out from an old pot;
- freed from the earth;
- roots and stems are cleaned of damaged areas;
- the whole plant is washed with hot (about 50 degrees) water with the addition of a fungicide;
- the sections are sprinkled with crushed coal and cinnamon powder;
- dried in a vertical position in air for up to 5 days;
- planted in new soil.
Important ! The root collar should protrude above the soil surface.
After transplantation, the cactus is not watered for about 5 days; it is carefully shaded.
And others
You can cure a succulent by pruning all affected areas. The main thing is to remove rot on the cactus to healthy tissue, treat it with disinfectants (charcoal, sulfur, cinnamon powder). If the top is damaged, it can be cut off and the rest of the cactus used as rootstock. Subsequently, fungicides are used, depending on the disease.
You can also try to save the succulent by re-rooting. That is, the roots are completely cut off. Only the healthy ground part is taken for planting. It should be sharpened like a pencil, left to dry in an upright position and placed in a glass of water.
After 10-14 days, roots will appear on it and the seedling can be planted in an individual pot. Then the plant is watered, and after a while the water is drained from the pan. The next watering is needed only after 20-22 days.
Is it possible to save if it starts to hurt from below, at the base?
As a result of improper care, the roots and base of the cactus are affected and rotting processes develop. This is the most common form of damage to this plant species. Fortunately, there is a chance to save the diseased cactus.
How to detect?
Damage to the roots and neck of a cactus can be detected by the following signs:
- a rim of brown or brown color in the lower part of the plant, at the border with the ground;
- the cactus falls to the side and is poorly kept in the ground;
- in advanced cases, the plant falls due to severe damage to the root system.
Source of infection
Cactus late blight (late blight, black root stalk). A disease caused by fungi of the genus Phytophtora. The roots of the plant and the base of the stem are affected.- Helminthosporosis. Another disease of fungal etiology. The causative agent is Helminthosporium cactivorum. Watery, dark brown lesions are found in the neck area of the cactus. Mostly young plants are infected.
- Excessive watering. The cactus loves dry soils and if there is too much moisture, the root system begins to rot very quickly.
- Improperly organized wintering. During the cold season, cacti need to have a dormant period, during which the plant is provided with a large amount of light and a minimum of moisture.
The temperature in the room with the plant should be +12..15°C. In case of any deviations from the required conditions, the cactus is susceptible to various diseases, including rotting. - Lack of moisture. Combined with elevated air temperatures and intense lighting, insufficient watering can cause root rot.
What to do with a rotten plant?
The answer to the question of what to do if the root of a cactus has rotted, how to save a rotten flower, and whether it can be revived, in this case is unambiguous. The plant is freed from soil, the roots are thoroughly washed and the degree of damage is determined. All areas infected with rot are removed with a small margin, since fungal infections can spread to healthy tissue. The sections are treated with fungicides (sulfur, copper sulfate). After pruning, the cactus is dried and planted in dry sand. Watering is carried out through a tray, rarely and in small quantities. In such conditions, the plant is kept until rooting.
External signs of rotting cactus roots
If the plant has acquired a pale tint or turned yellow, or the stem has stopped shining, this indicates rot. The same phenomenon occurs when a succulent shrinks. Signs when the watering regime is normal and the plant has entered the vegetative phase. A bad sign is a stem tilting to one side. A healthy plant should not have spots of any etiology or texture (dry, wet, brown or bright). A dent on the left or right, closer to the top of the cactus, also indicates rotting.
If the plant does not grow in season, this is a bad sign and indicates a serious disease. For a number of exotics, “wintering” with rest in summer is considered acceptable. Such cacti include rebutia and ailostera. A constantly wet substrate that does not dry out after watering for a long time indicates problems with the roots.
You can compare the drying period of the soil by placing several containers with plants nearby and watering them at the same time. Often the onset of rotting occurs unnoticed, but it can be identified by the appearance of a dark-colored rim at the bottom of the thick stem. If the roots are damaged, the plant does not sit tightly in the ground and may bend or fall to the ground.
Dry rot
It is quite difficult to identify this disease. usually discovered when the cactus is in its “death” stage.
What to look for during inspection?
When infected by Phoma rostrupin fungi, the plant turns pale and begins to dry out. Most often this goes unnoticed. Then dry crusts covered with cracks appear on the body of the cactus, and when pressed, your finger falls into the trunk. If the stem is cut, the cactus turns out to be empty, dried out inside.
Prerequisites for the disease
Introduction of the Phoma pathogen through wounds on the trunk of a cactus. When replanting or transporting a plant, you can accidentally damage the integrity of its body. In such cases, the fungus penetrates through the damaged areas, and the cactus becomes infected.- Violation of wintering conditions. If wintering is not organized correctly, the cactus’s resistance to infectious diseases decreases.
- Excessive watering. Excess moisture causes rotting of the root system, which weakens the plant's resistance to infectious diseases.
- Vaccination with a sick cactus. Only healthy plants should be grafted.
- Replanting into soil previously used for another plant. If a cactus suffering from dry rot previously grew in the soil, such a substrate should be destroyed and under no circumstances used for other plantings.
Can anything be done?
No effective methods have been developed to combat dry rot. The disease develops quickly and ends in the death of the cactus. To prevent this disease, plants should be treated quarterly with fungicides, and the conditions for keeping cacti and their wintering should be observed.
Care
Proper wintering is very important for a cactus . From November to March it should be kept in a bright, cool place at a temperature of 8-12 degrees above zero, without watering, fertilizing or drafts. It is necessary to bring them out of hibernation gradually - do not water them abundantly right away.
As the cactus grows, it needs to be transplanted into a new, larger pot, making sure that the soil level is the same as in the old container.
In general, an unpretentious desert inhabitant still needs a timely reaction from its owner to any negative changes in appearance or well-being. Following the care recommendations will help you to contemplate a healthy cactus in your interior for many years, because any illness is always easier to prevent than to treat.
How to resuscitate when a flower is completely damaged?
It also happens that people go on vacation, entrusting their “green hedgehog” to the care of a neighbor, and upon returning they find their pet in a terrible state, rotten to the very top.
What are the chances of rehabilitation?
If most of the plant has undergone rotting processes, it is impossible to revive it; such a cactus simply does not have enough strength to take root.
If the top has survived, you can try to root it. For this:
- the healthy part is cut off and dried in an upright position for several days;
- the cut site must be treated with coal or sulfur;
- then the surviving part is planted in dry soil with infrequent watering until roots appear.
The cactus cannot be called capricious, but it also requires care and attention from the gardener. Read articles from our experts about why the plant turns yellow, stretches out or leans to the side, and also how to rid the flower of white bloom.
Help the plant
After identifying rot, the plant owner needs to understand the cause of the processes. Based on this, a decision is made on the method of treating the succulent. In case of minor damage, it is enough to treat and transplant the plant into a new container and soil.
Apex transplantation
If the roots of a cactus are severely rotting, the only way to help it is to root the top. The damaged area is cut off, the cut is cleaned with a knife and treated with activated carbon powder. The stem is sharpened like a pencil. So, it is easier to plant it in the ground. Experienced gardeners recommend covering the stem with thorns with a thick cloth to avoid injury while processing the plant.
After the procedure, the cactus is dried and strengthened on a support, for example, on a glass. It should grow new roots within 10–30 days. After this, the plant is transplanted into prepared soil. During the procedure, you should be careful not to damage the delicate sprouts. Then watering is carried out through the pan, the remaining water is drained after ten minutes. The succulent is watered a second time 20–25 days after the first. This will prevent repeated rotting of the root system.
Treatment of cacti without external signs of rotting
Watering the succulent completely stops, as does spraying. The affected areas of the cactus are excised and dried for several days. After this, the plant is removed from the soil and the roots are examined. If there is nothing left of the root system, then the crown is immediately rooted. Healthy roots have a gray-green tint. They do not crumble when touched, do not bend or break. When affected by a fungus, crimson and brown spots appear on the root shoots.
The next step is to trim all damaged areas using a disinfected scalpel. Cut off the affected shoots until the sections become white, clean and without inclusions or spots. If the rotting process has gone above the root collar, and there are still spots, then continue pruning in even thin layers. The final cut is made with a clean tool and the bottom is sharpened like a pencil. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the succulent to take root. The remaining operations are performed as when rooting the crown.
How to care?
Cactus is a plant that does not require special attention. However, certain rules must be followed to avoid infection with rot.
- This plant requires a lot of light; the cactus should be placed on or near a windowsill.
- The cactus should be watered as needed, adhering to the principle “the warmer the room, the more abundant the watering,” but not more than once every 2 days.
- During the dormant period, water the cactus once every 1.5-2 weeks, monitor the temperature and lighting in the room.
Caring for a cactus should be approached carefully and responsibly, although it does not require as much effort as other indoor plants. With the right approach, the cactus will delight its caring owners for many decades.
What to do if mold appears?
To treat mold, which often affects young plants, manifests itself in the form of plaque and leads to rotting, folk remedies will help. Prepare a solution from one tablespoon of baking soda, the same amount of laundry soap and a liter of water (preferably boiled). Spray the flower once a day. An alternative to this remedy is a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate: about five crystals per liter of water. Treat a diseased cactus once every three days and at intervals of three days. Mustard powder in the amount of half a teaspoon dissolved in a liter of water also helps.
You can prepare a preparation from five grams of copper sulfate, 15 grams of liquid laundry soap and 200 milliliters of boiled water. Please note: first you need to dilute the copper sulfate, and then, stirring constantly, add soap.
If the disease on your succulent is severe, try using fungicides. Give preference to topaz and foundationazole, which are more suitable for indoor flowers. When preparing the product, strictly follow the instructions on the package. Three or four sprays are enough.
The best cure for all diseases is prevention, which, in fact, is no secret. To make your cactus resistant to diseases, fertilize it at least occasionally. Mineral, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are suitable for this. At the same time, spray the cactus with sulfur. The best time for prevention is summer and early autumn.
Causes of diseases
Being naturally adapted to extreme heat and drought, desert succulents react extremely negatively to excess humidity, especially at low air temperatures. Forest species show greater resistance to such a climate, but for them too frequent contact with water can be disastrous.
0db05c2fa4cb50a82aaa855069ffaf97_i-2806.jpg
The most common mistakes gardeners make when growing cacti at home are:
1. Unsuitable substrate. Representatives of the cactus family need light mineral soil consisting of sand, small stones and a minimum amount of garden soil (up to 30% for spherical and up to 50% for deciduous species). Components such as black soil, peat, humus and other organic matter are unnatural for this group of plants. They not only over-moisten the roots and interfere with normal air exchange, but can also lead to bacterial contamination of succulents, as they provide a breeding ground for many microorganisms.
grow-cactus-indoors-step-7.jpg
2. Lack of watering. Oval-shaped desert cacti with needles and “mouths” sometimes survive without water for six months or more. This is due to their ability to absorb moisture from the air. If you stop watering forest species (Decembrist, epiphyllum, rhipsalis, etc.), then within a month or two you will see wilting of leaves or stems, falling flowers, and fading color.
foto5_cvetok_dekabrist_vyanet_chto_delat.jpg
3. Excessive watering. The first signs of overwatering of cacti are swelling of the body and loss of ribbing. Next, straw, brown or rust-colored spots may appear, the stem becomes soft, the needles wither and fall off. When pressed, the skin of the flooded plant is easily damaged and juice flows out. This indicates a fungal infection that arose precisely because of the dampness of the soil.
15510.pgfbgc.840.jpg
4. Hypothermia. Spiny pets tolerate the winter dormant period best at temperatures from +8 to +12 °C. At this time, it is enough to water desert species once a month (literally a few drops of water), forest species - once every 10-15 days. If the plant is left in the cold (any thermometer reading below 0) and the liquid in its cells freezes, you will have to forget about restoration.
1019065_736b24946267013d3d97b72039b18c08_800.jpg
5. Pest damage. Thrips, scale insects and spider mites from indoor flowers can from time to time settle on succulents. It is best to combat them by spraying with insecticides, treating all infected plants at once on an open balcony or on the street.
56027.p0jlic.790.jpg
Each of the listed factors, and even more so a combination of several, can provoke drying out or rotting, first of the root system, and then of the ground part of the cactus. For successful recovery, all these mistakes must be corrected.
Is it possible to save a dying cactus and how to do it correctly? Causes of the disease and care tips
All plant growers, especially beginners, encounter problems when growing cacti.
Indoor cacti, despite their generally recognized resilience, get sick especially often and, so to speak, in a variety of ways. A cactus can begin to lose spines and shoots, dry out and become dull for completely different reasons.
Knowing the symptoms and understanding the nature of the diseases, you can have time to take measures to save the cactus from death so that it does not dry out completely.
Preventive measures
To avoid questions about how to save a cactus, it is advisable not to initially expose it to risks. Firstly, you should ensure the most comfortable climate - dry, warm, without sudden temperature changes. Secondly, the root system must be ventilated due to the loose structure of the soil, the presence of heterogeneous mineral additives (stones, sand) and an air-permeable drainage layer. In addition, it is important:
opryskivanie-kaktusov-iz-pulverizatora-928×1024.jpeg
Bad light
Most succulents need a lot of bright or even direct sunlight to thrive - cacti will not do well in a dark corner in the back of the room on the desktop near the computer, where everyone is trying to place them supposedly “to neutralize harmful radiation.”
Therefore, if you want to provide these plants with a blooming and healthy appearance, place them on southern, southwestern or southeastern windowsills. However, you need to keep in mind that in the summer heat, direct sunlight can burn some plants. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each species - if most cacti feel good there all day, then, for example, gasteria and crassula will have to be shaded at the height of the day so that they do not get sunburn.
If you don’t have very bright windows in your apartment, you may need to get plant lights to create favorable living conditions for succulents.
An indicator that a succulent is dark can be a general depressed appearance of the plant, a pale appearance of its natural color, and especially the stretching and bending of the stems in search of light.
Also, many succulents do not like constantly changing the position of the pot in relation to the light source - they can slow down their development or refuse to bloom altogether.
