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Houseplant aeschynanthus and its main types with photographs

Aeschynanthus is a very rare exotic plant of the Gesneriev family.
Southeast Asia is considered its homeland, so the flower needs special conditions (high humidity and diffuse lighting). There are many varieties of aeschynanthus, but they all require compliance with certain rules of care. Inexperienced flower growers claim that growing an exotic flower at home is very difficult, and it is extremely difficult to achieve flowering. However, it's not all bad. If you know how to properly care for this plant, it will delight you with its flowering from June to October. The flower has several thin hanging stems, up to 70 cm long, covered with thick dark leaves (40 mm) arranged in pairs.

During the flowering period, beautiful dense clusters of several long flowers are formed at the tips of the stems. The color varies from yellow-orange to burgundy-red, depending on the variety. In the wild, Aeschynanthus is an epiphyte and grows on tree trunks. It has gained popularity in home floriculture due to its beautiful appearance and graceful flowering.

What it looks like, what family it belongs to

Aechmea is an epiphyte that belongs to the Bromeliad family and is the closest relative of the pineapple. The crop is considered a perennial plant with long, leathery leaves.

Aechmea is a beautiful ornamental plant

When grown at home, the flower does not exceed 30-90 cm in height. Its leaves reach 20-50 cm. They have small teeth on the edges. The leaves form a round funnel, in the center of which there is a rosette. On top they are covered with chaotically located stripes and spots.

Important! Aechmea is considered an epiphyte, so the purpose of its roots is considered to be anchoring on the trunk of another plant. The flower receives nutrition through the foliage.

Briefly about the history of appearance

The plant appeared in South America - in particular, in Mexico. In this region it grows by fixating on trees. The flower feeds on water and humus, which accumulates in the rosette.

Despite the region of growth, the culture has a Greek name. Its meaning is “tip of a pike”. It is interesting that the namesake of the exotic plant was the hero of a popular film - Prince Aechmea of the Land of Gems.

Varieties of Eschynanthus

There are more than 190 plant species, but only 15 are used in home floriculture. Let's look at the most popular varieties of aeschynanthus.

Mona Lisa

Less demanding to care for, therefore often used in home gardening. A beautiful plant with numerous stems. They are covered with small fleshy leaves, dark green in color with a bright longitudinal vein. At the very end of each stem, large, bright red-pink elongated flowers grow.

Lovely (beautiful)

Thin hanging stems up to 50 cm long with a woody base, on which dense, bright leaves are located. The leaflet is about 10 cm long and no more than 3 cm wide. The ends of the shoots are decorated with inflorescences of 6-8 tubular flowers, yellow at the base and red at the tips.

Marble

Its main difference is its unusual leaves, with light green streaks reminiscent of the structure of marble. The lower part of the leaves is dark brown in color, and they themselves reach 10 cm in length. In a hanging pot, the plant looks very elegant and beautiful, but its flowering is not impressive. Due to the bright foliage, the small greenish tubes of flowers are almost invisible.

Thai pink

A delicate, graceful and beautiful plant, with thin long shoots and small heart-shaped dark leaves. Quite a rare variety. Those who want to buy aeschynanthus Tai pink should keep in mind that this is a rather demanding and capricious plant variety. During the flowering period, large, light pink tubular inflorescences are formed on the stems, usually 4 pieces each.

Caroline

An interesting plant, with strong thick shoots and large oblong pubescent leaves. The length of the stems is about 50-60 cm, and at the tips there are several burgundy flowers. The variety is capricious, requiring special conditions.

Rocky

A unique species of aeschynanthus that does not require soil, because in the wild it grows well on moss-covered rocks and in the mountains. It is practically not used in home floriculture.

Twister

A beautiful and unusual plant, with long curved stems and curly small leaves. They are glossy, curved inward, and dark, rich in color. The flowers are dark orange and red, growing both at the ends and in the middle of long shoots.

Firebird

The variety is popular among gardeners due to its colorful, bright flowers. There are many artificially bred varieties of the variety, with large purple, pink or multi-colored flowers. At the same time, the stems and leaves of the plant are usual for aeschynanthus.

Rasta

In the shape of the stems and leaves, Rasta is very similar to Twister. Its shoots also tend to curl, and the curly leaves are rich green in color and small in size. The only difference is the color of the tubular inflorescences. Rasta's is dark red.

Bella Donna

The variety is more compact, with small rounded shiny leaves. The shoots are long, and the flowers are medium-sized, red in color, 4-6 pieces per inflorescence.

Rigel

A plant with large long leaves, thin stems and large orange flowers. Less demanding of care than other varieties, but prefers a warm room with diffused light.

Those who want to purchase this exotic plant need to study the conditions for keeping and caring for eschynanthus.

Plant species

Types of echmea:

Aechmea striata or Fasciata. It is a beautiful ornamental plant reaching 60 cm in height. It is characterized by belt-shaped leaves that are covered with blurry stripes. With proper care, Aechmea Primera, or aechmea cultivar Fasciata, can bloom throughout the summer.
Sparkling Aechmea or Blue Rain. It is characterized by compact size and light green foliage. Aechmea variety Blue Rain has paniculate inflorescences with many small blue flowers and coral bracts.
Two-color echmea. This is the most resistant variety to external influences with an unusual foliage color. They are green above and red-violet below. The flowers have a red-pink hue.
Ehmeya Weilbach. This plant is characterized by an original transition in the shades of foliage. At the base they are red-green, the rest is a normal green tint. The bushes reach a height of 50 cm. They are characterized by bright racemose inflorescences. The bracts are red and the flowers are blue.
Echmea tailed or bearded. This small crop has a compact rose of rich green color. The flower is characterized by red-orange bracts. The flowers have a golden hue.

There are many varieties of plants known

Aechmea is a beautiful ornamental plant that is often grown by gardeners. In order for a crop to delight with abundant flowering for as long as possible, it needs to be provided with high-quality care.

Caring for and growing Eschynanthus at home

It is important to remember that aeschynanthus is a tropical plant that requires high humidity and light. It is impossible to completely create the necessary conditions in the room, but there are several points that are worth paying attention to.

Lighting

Eschinanthus does not tolerate direct sun and can die from burns. Diffused, dim light would be ideal for it, and it is better to place the pot in the western or eastern part of the room. If the choice fell on a south window, then the plant must be artificially shaded, especially at noon. On the northern window, due to lack of lighting, the aeschynanthus will not bloom.

Air humidity

It requires high humidity, so you will have to place a humidifier or just a cup of water nearby. Additionally, the container with the flower is placed on a tray with well-moistened moss. In summer, it is necessary to regularly spray the plant with a spray bottle, avoiding water getting on the flowers. At the same time, the water should be at comfortable room temperature, filtered, but not boiled.

Watering

Despite the requirements for air humidity, aeschynanthus does not tolerate excessive watering. It should be watered only when the top layer of soil has dried by 3-5 cm. In summer it is watered on average 1-2 times a week, and in winter - much less often. Too infrequent and irregular watering can lead to the cessation of flowering, shedding of leaves and death of the plant.

Overwatering is no less dangerous than drought, because it leads to rotting of the root system.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing is carried out in summer and spring, using universal fertilizers for indoor plants. Before use, you must carefully read the instructions and halve the dosage required for ordinary plants. Fertilize once a week, along with watering, but only during the flowering period.

Trimming

Pruning will help improve the appearance of the plant. It is carried out after flowering, removing 1/3 of the long stems. In addition, it is necessary to remove old dry leaves and pinch the tops of the shoots. Some gardeners recommend pruning aeschynanthus before flowering, but there is not much difference.

Transfer

Separately, it is worth mentioning the transplantation, which is carried out after purchasing a flower. In the future, the plant is replanted annually, in the spring, before flowering.

First you need to prepare the pot, soil and drainage. Several holes are made at the bottom of the pot and a layer of expanded clay is laid. Eschynanthus does not like spacious containers, and each subsequent pot should be only 20 mm wider than the previous one. It is better to choose a wide but shallow container, and transplantation is carried out using the method of careful transshipment.

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Care Tips

Features of the watering and fertilizing regime

When the plant enters the phase of active growth and flowering, it needs regular and moderate watering. Please note that an overdried substrate leads to slower growth of shoots, and during the budding period, drought contributes to the premature wilting of flowers.

During the “sleep” period, Achimenes require rather scanty watering. A dormant plant should be watered very carefully along the edge of the pot and only after the substrate has completely dried. They do this about once a month.

Six weeks after planting rhizomes, young Achimenes require frequent feeding. The procedure is carried out at least 4 times a month (i.e. once a week) with complex fertilizers for indoor plants containing both micro- and macroelements. In the period preceding flowering, it is recommended to apply fertilizers with a higher nitrogen content, and during budding, use fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

For busy flower growers who do not have the opportunity to frequently fertilize, we can recommend using complex fertilizers in the form of sticks; they are produced by Agricola, Pokon, Etisso, etc. They should be buried in a pot; nutrients will be released with each watering.

Fertilizers in the form of sticks are very convenient to use.

Flowering period. How to make Achimenes bloom?

The flowering period of Achimenes lasts several months - from May to October. To make it as abundant and bright as possible, you should follow a few simple rules of care.

Achimenes has a pronounced period of “sleep”; at this time it is necessary to provide him with suitable conditions: a dark place with a temperature of 16–18 ºC. Watering during rest should be limited, only after the earthen clod has completely dried. After such stress, Achimenes bloom continuously all summer.

The second rule for getting the most abundant flowering is pinching. The Achimenes bush should be formed by pinching the tops of young shoots. This procedure should be started as early as possible, when the length of the shoots reaches only 2.5 cm. Pinch off the tops of each shoot; when the shoots emerging from the pinching site grow by 2–3 cm, remove the growth point again. Such pinching should be done every 2 weeks. To form a lush bush, it is enough to do three procedures.

Periodically pick off faded flowers. This stimulates the appearance of new buds in place of faded ones.

How to care for Achimenes during the dormant period?

In the fall, when the first signs of stunted growth become noticeable and the flower begins to fade, reduce watering, gradually stopping it completely. When the above-ground part dries out, cut it off.

Store Achimenes rhizomes in the same pots in which the plants grew during the summer. For the winter, it is best to place the containers in a dry and cool (but not cold) place. The maximum temperature for storing achimenes is 18ºC. This temperature promotes a full, long period of “sleep.” To prevent the rhizomes from drying out, lightly moisten the top layer in the container with warm water once a month.

If there are no suitable conditions for storing achimenes in an apartment during the winter, you can completely store them at room temperature (by placing them in a dark place, for example, under the bed). But it should be taken into account that even one careless abundant watering of the soil can cause premature awakening of the rhizomes, which will subsequently affect the development of the flower and especially its flowering.

In mid-February - early March, remove the containers with Achimenes from the shelter. Transplant the rhizoms into fresh substrate and place the pot back in a dark place. As soon as the first shoots appear, move the container with the flower to a bright windowsill.

Video: flowering at the end of July

Methods for propagating Eschynanthus

Like all living things, aeschynanthus ages and requires renewal. Not only pruning and replanting will help with this, but also propagation. After 5 years, the flower loses its decorative effect, so it is better to grow a new plant.

The simplest method is propagation by stem cuttings , about 10 cm long, with several ovary nodules. The cuttings are cut immediately after flowering, the lower leaves are torn off and placed in a small glass of water. You can germinate them in a moist soil mixture of sand and peat.

Before planting, the cuttings are treated with Kornevin's solution, placed in prepared soil and covered with film. The cover is removed daily for 2-3 hours to ventilate. The container with the seedlings is placed in a warm place, at a temperature of +25C, and after a couple of weeks they will take root well. After which, they can be planted in separate pots.

Reproduction by leaf blades is approximately the same. Select a leaf with a bud, treat the cut site with potassium permanganate, coal and place it in water or a nutrient substrate (peat + sand).

When the plate takes root, it is moved to a separate container. Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot, and soil from turf soil, peat and river sand is placed on top.

Growing aeschynanthus from seeds is not at all easy, but it is possible. After flowering, small boxes with small seeds form on the plant. They are carefully removed, poured into the soil mixture for germination and covered with glass.

Often, when breeding aeschynanthus with seeds, a simple mistake is made. The fact is that you cannot water the plantings, but moisten the soil simply by pouring water into a tray on which there is a container with seeds. When the seedlings grow a little and become stronger, they are transplanted into small pots. Such plants will begin to bloom within a year.

How does it reproduce

Since the rosette dies off after the inflorescences wither, breeders are forced to systematically propagate the crop. This is a fairly simple process, since the children settle down without any problems.

Propagation by cuttings

It will not be possible to cut the cuttings for propagation. It has a small stem that will not grow. Moreover, the plant will die immediately. Therefore, propagation of echmea is carried out by shoots. After the mother plant finishes flowering, the rosette produces babies and dies. The withering process is slow. During this period, children get stronger and grow.

It is necessary to separate the daughter rosette from the common roots at the moment when it reaches 2/3 of the height of the mother culture. To propagate a flower you need to do the following:

Remove the plant from the pot and remove the soil.
Make a cut that minimally damages the roots of the baby.
Sprinkle the affected area with coal or chalk.
Fill a pot with a diameter of 10 cm with nutrient substrate.
Place the baby and cover it with a jar or bag. It is important to ventilate the plant every day.
It is necessary to constantly maintain soil moisture and protect the echmea from direct sunlight.
After 20 days, it is worth checking the growth of roots.
If they have begun their development, the pot should be placed in a new place and the culture should be properly cared for.

When the bush grows, it will need to be replanted. If several children were planted, they need to be seated.

Reproduction by layering

Aechmea is not propagated in this way. The stem of the crop does not bend and does not form aerial roots. It is best to propagate the plant from offspring.

Aechmea is propagated by offspring

Difficulties and problems in care

Often, novice gardeners who buy exotic aeschynanthus for the first time encounter problems. Suddenly the leaves begin to fall, the shoots turn yellow and dry, and flowering stops. If leaves begin to fall in winter, the low temperature may be to blame. The fall of leaves in the summer requires compliance with the watering and moistening regime.

The cause of yellowing and drying of leaves is often dry air in the room. The appearance of brown or orange spots on the leaf blades can be caused by sunburn or watering with cold water. The shoots have become soft, loose and watery - this is due to excess moisture in the soil.

If a plant does not bloom for a long time , then it does not have enough sunlight. Often, the answer to the question of why aeschynanthus does not bloom lies in improper care, when the plant is not given the necessary rest period.

When flowering has begun, but the flowers fall off before they have time to bloom, the plant needs good watering and moisture. We must not forget about the mandatory regular fertilizer.

Originality of the Aechmea plant

The generic name Aechmea means "spear" or "thorn". The appearance of the term is associated with the pointed shape of the inflorescence and leaves. Aechmeas belong to the Bromeliad family. According to their preferred living conditions, they belong to the group of reservoir plants.

Characteristics:

Aechmeas in their homeland are epiphytes that live on trees.
The height and diameter of plants is from 30 to 50 cm.
The elongated leaves form a funnel-shaped container (reservoir) in which rainwater and dew are collected.
The surface of the leaf blades is capable of absorbing water and substances dissolved in it from the funnel in the center of the rosette.
The inflorescences are formed by pointed, brightly colored bracts, among which are small flowers.
Flowering period is from May–June to October–November.
Fruit is a berry containing seeds.

The charm of this plant lies in its unusual, truly unearthly appearance. Green or silver-gray leaves form a funnel. During flowering, an elastic, spike-shaped inflorescence appears, resembling a torch (pink, purple or other bright colors). Flowers retain their beauty for a long time.

Some bromeliads also have a torch-like inflorescence - guzmania, for example - but Aechmea's flowers are more subtle and delicate.

The peculiarity of echmea is that it blooms until the end of its life. Each rosette forms a thick peduncle with a spectacular inflorescence only once, after which it dies. The life of this amazing and strange plant is continued by the “babies” that form on the sides of the mother’s shoot.

Aechmea leaves have tiny scales that protect against overheating and prevent the plant from losing moisture in the scorching sun. The more silver-gray color there is on the leaf blades, the more scales there are. In addition, the leaves are able to neutralize harmful formaldehyde from the air, which is contained in tobacco smoke, modern building materials and furniture. This is an ideal plant for the bedroom as it produces oxygen at night when other indoor flowers are only breathing and releasing carbon dioxide.

Diseases and pests affecting Eschynanthus

More often, aeschynanthus is attacked by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Aphids are clearly visible on the leaves and cause them to turn yellow and fall off. With a small number of pests, washing the leaves with a solution of laundry soap will help. When there are a lot of insects, you can prepare an infusion of ground black pepper (200 g) and half a liter of water. Mix everything, boil for an hour and leave for a day. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the affected leaves.

Mealybug appears as a white cottony coating on leaves and shoots. You can save the flower using the same laundry soap. As a last resort, treat it with a special preparation (Aktara).

A garlic infusion made from 1 tsp will help get rid of scale insects. grated garlic and half a liter of water. It is easy to recognize the appearance of insects by the brown tubercles on the leaves. If garlic is not effective, then you will have to use Aktara.

The most common diseases of Eschynanthus are gray rot and powdery mildew. The reason for the development of rot is waterlogging and drafts, and powdery mildew appears due to a combination of low temperature and high humidity in the room.

A single treatment with Fundazol, according to the instructions, will help get rid of gray rot. Powdery mildew is removed using a solution of potassium permanganate, and in severe cases, only by treating it with Topaz or Vectra.

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Possible problems during cultivation

When breeding a crop, there is a risk of various problems arising. Most often they are caused by violation of the rules of plant care.

Why doesn't the flower bloom?

Reasons for lack of flowering:

insufficient lighting;
low level of humidity during the period of active development of the crop;
temperature less than +18 degrees or more than +35;
influence of direct sunlight;
strong soil moisture - stagnation of water provokes the process of rotting of the root system.

To activate the flowering process, you can resort to the following measures:

Place chopped apples or bananas in moist soil. As the fruits spoil, replace them with fresh ones.
Provide the crop with greenhouse conditions. To do this, you can cover it with a glass jar or bag. It is important that the temperature in the greenhouse is at least +25 degrees.
Systematically ventilate the plant and control soil moisture.

On average, resuscitation measures allow you to get a peduncle within 10 days.

Why do Aechmea leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off?

Most often, the leaves of the crop turn yellow due to the development of fungal infections. When root rot appears, leaves turn yellow and die. During this period, the root system of the plant darkens and rots.

If the rules of care are not followed, the plant suffers from fungal infections.

Timely diagnosis helps prevent plant death. To do this, you need to pull it out of the ground, inspect the root system and cut off the affected fragments.

Then the plant should be transplanted into new soil and moved to a warm and well-lit place. In case of significant damage, you can cut off the top of young branches. This will help save the plant's energy.

Important! It is possible to moisten the soil only when the development of the crop has noticeably begun. The cause of fungal infections is considered to be overwatering.

Pests

Aechmea can suffer from various pests. These include mites, scale insects, and scale insects. To cope with parasites, treat with a soap solution. If this does not help, you must resort to the use of insecticides.

Caring for Eschynanthus at home

There are more than 190 species of Eschynanthus in the world. It grows in Asia, most often found in the southern and eastern parts. It grows on trees and is an epiphyte (it does not feed on another plant). An adult plant reaches 90 cm. Mostly gardeners grow magnificent aeschynanthus.

This is a perennial, evergreen, hanging plant. In addition, flower growers breed marbled aeschynanthus, which is characterized by a special color of leaves that have different shades of green up to brown.

Eschananthus "Lobba" has red flowers, and "Mona Lisa" is less whimsical compared to other species. "Twister" is distinguished by curly leaves and orange-red flowers.

In addition to these species, you can also find aeschynanthus “Carolina”, “Rasta”, “Belladonna”, tricolor, rocky, “Firebird”.

Growing all varieties of this plant requires compliance with a number of conditions. Next, let's look at which ones.

Temperature

The air temperature in the room where the flower is planted should be within +23 - +25*C. This condition must be observed in the summer.

For winter, it is important to reduce it to +16* - this will allow the plant to go into a dormant period and lay the buds of future flowers. Drafts, cold gusts of air, and frequent changes in temperature will also negatively affect the plant.

Eschynanthus loves a sufficient amount of light, but it is advisable to avoid direct rays. Because direct light significantly reduces the flowering period.

Florists recommend placing the flower on western and eastern windows. If this is not possible, and you have to use southern window sills, then you may need to provide a little shade. On the north side there is a risk of lack of light.

Reproduction of Achimenes

Method No. 1. Rhizomes

Propagation by rhizomes is the most effective and simplest method, since Achimenes grows a sufficient number of rhizomes during the season, with the help of which the plant can be propagated. Some rhizomes become large enough that they can be divided into several parts.

Shake out the top of the old soil from the Achimenes container. Select all rhizomes. Divide large rhizomes (rhizomes 4–5 cm long) into several parts (the minimum rhizome size for planting is about 0.5 cm).
To prevent the plant from suffering from fusarium or root rot in the future, treat the rhizomes with Maxim, keeping them in the solution for 30 minutes. Then lay the rhizomes on a damp substrate and sprinkle with soil (a layer of 1–2 cm is enough).
Cover the plantings with film and place them in a dark place for germination.
When the first shoots appear, remove the film and move the container with the plantings to a bright place. Achimenes grown from rhizomes will begin to bloom three to four months after planting.

Achimenes rhizomes resemble unopened pine cones

Method No. 2. Seeds

The plant sets a lot of fruits if faded flowers are not removed. Achimenes seeds can be bought in the store or collected yourself. To do this, wait until the seed capsule becomes soft, open it, remove the seeds, dry it and store it in a dark, cool place before planting.

In the spring, in the first ten days of March, you can start planting seeds. This method is good for obtaining a large number of plants, however, the varietal qualities of most hybrids are lost when propagated by seeds.

To plant seeds, use a ready-made mixture for violets or make a substrate of peat, humus, sand and perlite. Fill shallow bowls with substrate and lightly moisten.
Spread the seeds over the surface of the ground, slightly pressing them inward. There is no need to sprinkle soil on top.
Cover the container with film or glass and place in a warm and bright place.
Ventilate the greenhouse daily and moisten the substrate with a spray bottle as necessary.
To prevent Akhmenes shoots from stretching, provide additional light to the seedlings in the morning and evening hours. Place the illumination lamp at a distance of 25 cm from the container. As the seedlings grow, increase the distance between plantings and lighting.
After 2–3 weeks, the first shoots will appear. When the first pair of leaves grow, pick up the seedlings, plant several shoots in one container, and pinch the tops of each stem. Make two more picks (the period between procedures is 2-3 weeks), and for the last time, transplant the achimenes into a permanent “adult” pot. Flowering of seedlings grown from seeds will occur only in the second year after planting.

Varietal characteristics are not preserved when propagated by seeds

Method number 3. Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is not very popular among gardeners (especially beginners), since planting material often rots. But with proper care, you can get many new plants from cuttings. This method is especially suitable for growing new specimens of varietal Achimenes, since when propagated by this method, all varietal characteristics are preserved.

Cut off the shoot. Cut it into cuttings with two pairs of leaves. Dip the planting material for two hours in a solution of Epin or Heteroauxin (these are drugs that stimulate root formation).
Before planting, dip the lower cut of the cutting into crushed activated carbon. This technique will avoid rotting.
Fill shallow containers for planting with a mixture of perlite (vermiculite) and peat, and plant the cuttings at an angle.
Lightly moisten the soil and cover the top of the container with plantings with a glass or transparent plastic lid.
Place in a warm place, preferably with bottom heating. For example, you can place plantings on a heating radiator.
Periodically moisten the soil with water and a small amount of root formation stimulants (Epin or Kornevin), which will speed up the rooting process of cuttings by about two weeks.
A week after rooting, transplant the cuttings to a permanent place in a small pot filled with regular substrate.
Flowering of plants grown from cuttings will occur in the same season, but it will not be as abundant as when growing Achimenes from rhizomes. You can expect lush flowering only in the second year of growing Achimenes from cuttings.

The method is suitable for obtaining new specimens of varietal Achimenes, since when propagated by this method, all the characteristics of the variety are preserved

Video: how to plant Achimenes rhizomes

Why does Eschynanthus shed its buds and leaves? What to do?

This question can be answered if you know at what period of the plant’s life this occurs. During the dormant period, that is, late autumn and winter, the plant can shed its crown due to a decrease in air temperature and a long period of established low values.

In the summer, when the plant blooms, the aeschynanthus most likely sheds its buds due to lack of moisture in the soil. In addition, when spraying a plant during the flowering period, you must be extremely careful, because drops of water falling on the buds will most likely cause them to fall off prematurely.

Pest protection

Aechmea is affected by aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and root scale insects. The first thing to do is isolate the infected flower. Washing the plant in the shower helps against a small number of pests. Another option is to wipe the leaves on both sides with a cotton pad soaked in an alcohol solution.

If there are a lot of insects, then chemicals are used. Spider mites can be controlled using the biological pesticide Fitoverm. To destroy scale insects, use the drugs Aktara or Insektor. Ditox is effective against root bugs.

Eschynanthus: how to please a luxurious but whimsical handsome man

Few Russian lovers of indoor flowers are closely familiar with the plant named aeschynanthus. Until now, this Tropican is exotic for our apartments. Aeschynanthus has an attractive appearance: its long shoots are dressed in harsh, bright leaves, and the ends are decorated with scarlet flowers directed upwards. But this handsome man has a very capricious character, not everyone can please him. Although some flower growers are not afraid of the difficulties, they assure that aeschynanthus is quite amenable to education, you just need to find the right approach to it.

Types of echmea with photos and names

In total, the genus Aechmea includes from 180 to 255 plant species. In nature, there are echmeas, the diameter of the rosettes and the height of the inflorescences is 2 m. Large funnels accumulate a lot of water and become a habitat for small animals and algae. In indoor culture, species and varieties with rosette diameters from 20 to 40 cm have become widespread.

Striped (Aechmea fasciata)

Aechmea striata or fasciata is an example of a “classic” houseplant. This species can most often be seen in photos from flower shows. The leaves are dense, have thorns along the edges, and are collected in a tube-shaped rosette.

The leaf blades of an adult plant reach a length of 40 cm or more, their width is from 5 to 6 cm. Marble-white and silver-gray stripes consisting of suction scales (trichomes) stand out against a green background.

The Aechmea fasciata plant blooms between 2 and 6 years of age. A strikingly beautiful inflorescence about 20–30 cm long appears in the center of the leaf rosette. The shape is pyramidal with an expansion at the top, the bracts are pink and shiny. The bluish corollas turn blue-red towards the end of flowering.

Striped echmea "Primera" or "Primera" (variety "Primera") is 5–10 cm higher than the original species.

The leaves are silvery-green, striped, smooth along the edges. The bracts are pale pink in color, the flowers are lilac-red.

Weilbach (Aechmea Weilbachii)

The dense goblet-shaped rosette of this species consists of linear-xiphoid leaves 30–50 cm long. The green leaf blades have a copper-red tint at the base. The inflorescence raceme is located on a peduncle up to 45 cm high.

The color of the peduncles and bracts is bright red, the petals are lilac or lilac-blue with a white edge. The length of each flower is up to 2 cm, the entire inflorescence is from 10 to 15 cm.

Fendler's (Aechmea fendleri)

Aechmea fendlera is named after the researcher and plant collector A. Fendler. The leaves of the plant are olive green in color and have a shiny surface. The spike-shaped inflorescence consists of violet-blue bracts and dark red flowers.

The species A. fendleri is popular in indoor floriculture. Among the varieties: “Flamingo”, “Lilac Cloud”, “Pink Rocket” and others.

Sparkling (Aechmea fulgens)

The species is considered unpretentious among representatives of its genus. Aechmea sparkling forms a dense rosette consisting of green, belt-shaped leaves up to 40 cm long.

The soft leaf plates are covered on the underside with a gray waxy coating. Pink bracts surround numerous purple-violet flowers. The A. fulgens "Discolor" variety has olive green upper leaf surfaces and crimson lower leaves.

Curved (Aechmea recurvata)

The leaves of Aechmea are curved in shape, narrow-linear, 30 cm long and 1.5 cm wide, with thorns along the edges. The inflorescence is capitate, located on a peduncle 20 cm high.

The bracts and petals of the corolla are red. The species A. recurvata has a miniature ortgiesii form with a height of about 15 cm. The bracts are red and the flowers are pink.

Shaggy (Aechmea comata)

Shaggy echmea leaves are collected in a dense rosette. The inflorescence is a multi-row spike consisting of bright yellow flowers and red bracts.

The variety A. comata "Makoyana" differs from the original species in the variegated color of its leaves - green with creamy white stripes.

Matte red (Aechmea miniata)

Aechmea matte red is one of the shortest species of the genus Aechmea. The leaf rosette reaches a height of about 20 cm. The leaves of the A. miniata species are light green, acquiring a purple tint below.

The surface of the leaf blade is covered with a few scales. There is a variety with reddish-purple leaves. The peduncle is erect, red. The inflorescence has a pyramidal shape. The color of the bracts is bright red, the petals are pale blue.

Aechmea hybrid "Blue Rhine"

The rosette of leaves of the hybrid Aechmea "Blue Rain" grows quickly with good care. In July, inflorescences appear, densely strewn with funnel-shaped violet or purple flowers.

The indoor flower is unpretentious, but it is best to place it in a partially shaded place and keep it at a temperature of 18 to 25 ° C.

Origin, appearance and features of eschynanthus

The homeland of Aeschynanthus is the tropical forests of southeast Asia. In its natural environment, the plant lives in Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and Malaysia. This is an epiphytic bush, adapted to life off the ground, on snags, trees or stones. For this method of existence, Eschynanthus has long (about half a meter) creeping stems and thick leaves that are capable of storing moisture. This is convenient - it rains rarely, but plentifully in the tropics. In its native land, the plant is accustomed to warm, moist air and scattered but bright sun.

Conditions in nature and at home

Aeschynanthus is an inhabitant of the tropical forest. And at home, he is faithful to the habits acquired in nature. He still strives for the sun, prefers moist and warm air, without sudden changes in temperature. But it is ready to live the winter in a cool place and will be content with scanty watering. So, when creating a climate for aeschynanthus, take into account the natural conditions to which it is accustomed, and there will be no problems with growth and flowering.

Sources:

https://cvetolubam.ru/eshinantus/ https://room-plant.ru/komnatnye-rasteniya/ampelnye-rasteniya/eshinantus/uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah-foto-2/ https://diz-cafe. com/rastenija/esxinantus-kak-ugodit-roskoshnomu-no-prixotlivomu-krasavcu.html

Aechmea flowering

The inflorescences of an exotic plant can be simple or complex. The coloring is dominated by red, pink, blue and purple tones. The wilted inflorescences of the indoor Aechmea flower can be cut off; they no longer bloom. One of the most common misconceptions in caring for this indoor exotic is related to a misunderstanding of the role of lighting and temperature in stimulating flowering.

Reasons why echmea does not bloom at home:

young age, less than 1 year after planting;
air temperature is too high or low;
absence of a rest phase at low temperatures throughout the year;
lack of bright light or direct sunlight on the leaves;
disease or pest damage;
insufficient humidity.

Experienced gardeners recommend stimulating flowering with apples, bananas or pears. The flower along with the fruit is placed in a large plastic bag and tied loosely. Leave for 7–10 days. The gas released by the fruits accelerates the formation of Aechmea flower buds, but not immediately. Peduncles form over several months and bloom into beautiful flowers.

Lowering the temperature for 7–10 days helps stimulate flowering. The pot with the plant is taken out to the balcony or other place where the temperature at night drops to 15–16°.