Streptocarpus flowers: secrets of care and growing rules

How do streptocarpus reproduce?

How can you propagate streptocarpus at home? There are several options. Young seedlings can be grown from any part of the mother plant, just root it.

Germination of seeds

Indoor petunia - care and cultivation at home

Streptocarpus can be propagated from seeds at home without much effort. A short time after planting, they germinate and take root well. The only peculiarity is the lack of transfer of hybrid properties to young plants. Therefore, planting material must be purchased from trusted places.

Reproduction proceeds according to the following scheme:

• the pre-prepared soil is generously moistened with a spray bottle and sent to the greenhouse;
• the seed material is not buried, but scattered over the surface;
• containers are placed closer to the sun;
• the greenhouse is covered with a lid;
• ventilate daily for 15 minutes.

Important! With proper care, the first shoots should be expected within 2 weeks

Rooting cuttings, leaves, leaf fragments

Streptocarpus can be propagated by dividing an adult bush with several rosettes. Each of them must have a growing point and a root system. After watering, the bush is removed from the container and divided into several parts. The sections are sprinkled with charcoal powder, and the resulting seedlings are planted in different containers. They are cared for according to the standard scheme.

When propagating streptocarpus from leaf fragments, you should take a middle-aged plate and cut it according to the scheme:

• across - into 2 parts;
• along - into 2 parts;
• the central vein is cut out.

The shares should be planted cut side down in mini-greenhouses. The first shoots will appear in 2 months, then they can be fed.

Leaf propagation

Varieties of Streptocarpus

Currently, there are about 150 varieties of streptocarpus in the world, which are divided by experts into 3 types:

• rosette;
• stem;
• unifoliate.

Rosette hybrid varieties of streptocarpus are the most common when grown at home due to their long and lush flowering, as well as relative ease of care. They feel comfortable and delight with abundant flowering at almost any temperature and humidity in the room.

Rosette species of streptocarpus are characterized by the absence of a stem, large wrinkled leaves that have a rich green color, and large flowers collected in a rosette. The flowers are shaped like bells, and their colors can be incredibly varied: from white and soft pink to blue, from bright red to almost black, with specks, stripes and spots.

Among rosette streptocarpus there are both wild species and specially bred hybrid varieties. The most common wild ones are:

• White streptocarpus . It can be distinguished not only by its numerous snow-white flowers, but also by its large wrinkled leaves, the length of which can reach almost 50 cm.
• Primufolia streptocarpus . The plant has a long stem and blooms magnificently with flowers of various colors from milky white to purple with stripes and specks on the petals.
• Royal streptocarpus , which in natural conditions has small flowers of soft lilac or deep purple. It was this species that became the model for the development of many hybrid varieties with flowers of a wide variety of sizes and shades.

Hybrid varieties of rosette streptocarpus cannot be listed. Let us highlight just a few of the most interesting of them:

• Variety "Zapolyarye" , so named because the combination of lilac, dark purple and yellow shades in the flower pattern is reminiscent of the Northern Lights.
• Variety “Sea Patterns” , characterized by huge white flowers decorated with sea green stripes.

The stem type includes creeping streptocarpus, blooming profusely with small flowers. Among the most popular varieties is Streptocarpus Kirka, which has pale lilac inflorescences in the form of umbrellas. Its flowering at home can last from spring to mid-autumn.

Streptocarpus steleforma is characterized by small light blue flowers with dark stripes that have a drooping shape, while Streptocarpus rocky is characterized by small gray-green leaves, long pubescent stems and small pale purple flowers. In an apartment, with proper care and the presence of additional lighting, it can delight with continuous flowering not only in the spring and summer months, but also in the winter.

Unifolia streptocarpus have one central leaf growing from the base, the length of which can reach 90-100 cm. The most famous plant of this type is Streptocarpus Wendland, which has a large, velvety oval-shaped leaf and a long peduncle, and blooms profusely with blue-violet flowers. Flowering occurs in the second year of life, after which the plant dies. Its propagation occurs only by seeds.

Problems and their solutions

With proper care, growing streptocarpus does not cause much trouble. But if you regularly violate agricultural standards, problems may arise with the plant. Flower growers often encounter the following negative aspects:

• The leaves of the plant wither. This phenomenon is caused by insufficient watering. To correct the situation, moisten the soil and do not allow it to dry out in the future.
• The leaves are turning yellow. This is how the plant reacts to a lack of nutrients in the substrate. Feed streptocarpus and its leaves will restore their natural color.
• The tips of the leaves dry out. This phenomenon is caused by insufficient humidity in the room. To remedy the situation, place a humidifier or at least containers of water next to the pot. And also regularly spray the air around the plant with warm water from a spray bottle, trying not to get moisture on the leaves.
• The leaves were covered with a rusty coating. This phenomenon is caused by excessive watering or excess nutrients in the substrate. If the problem arose due to waterlogging, first let the soil dry completely, and then normalize the irrigation schedule. Please note that streptocarpus tolerates drought more easily than dampness. If rust on the leaves appears due to overfeeding, then replant the flower in a peat-based substrate. In the future, fertilize streptocarpus once every two weeks. In this case, use only half the dosage indicated on the package.
• The plant does not bloom. Streptocarpus may not produce buds due to a cramped pot or lack of light. Replant the plant or place it closer to a window and it will produce new flower stalks. But if the plant is old, then it will be impossible to get buds from it, because each leaf of the crop produces no more than 10 flowers. In this case, do not rush to throw away the streptocarpus. It can be updated, for example, by dividing the bush or leaf propagation.

Listen to these tips and secrets, and growing and caring for streptocarpus will not cause you much trouble.

Kinds

White Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus candidus

Representative of the species are rosette plants. The leaves grow up to 45 cm in length and up to 15 in width, the texture is wrinkled. The flowers are white with yellow stripes; pharynx with purple dots, purple lines on the lower lip; There are a lot of flowers, growing up to 2.5 cm in length.

Streptocarpus grandis / Streptocarpus grandis

This species has only one leaf, which reaches 40 cm in length and 30 cm in width. The stem grows up to 0.5 m, and at the top flowers with a light purple corolla and a darker pharynx are collected in racemose inflorescences, the lower lip is white.

Streptocarpus cyaneus

The species is represented by a rosette plant. The stems grow up to 15 cm. The pink flowers grow two on a stem, the middle of the flower is yellow, and the throat is decorated with purple dots and stripes.

Streptocarpus wendlandii

In nature, this species lives in South Africa. The plant has only one leaf, dark green with lighter veins - it grows to almost 1 m in length and a little more than 0.5 m in width. The peduncle is quite long, 5-centimeter flowers grow from its axils, the corolla is dark purple, and the pharynx is covered with white stripes.

Streptocarpus glandulosissimus / Streptocarpus glandulosissimus

This species grows in the Uzambara and Ulugur mountains. The stem grows up to 15 cm in length. The color of the flowers varies from purple to dark blue.

Streptocarpus johannis

This is a rosette plant with a straight stem. Leaves are up to 0.5 m long and up to 10 cm wide. Up to three dozen almost 2-centimeter flowers grow on the stem; flowers are lilac-blue.

Streptocarpus rexii

The habitat of this rosette plant is South Africa. The leaves are pubescent, elongated-lanceolate in shape - up to 25 cm in length and up to 5 cm in width. Axillary flowers grow singly or in pairs, the funnel-shaped corolla reaches 5 cm in length and half as much in diameter; the flower is light lavender in color, and the corolla tube and throat are covered with purple stripes. This species blooms for a very long time and richly.

Streptocarpus polyanthus

This single-leaved species is native to South Africa. The leaf is quite densely pubescent, reaches a length of up to 30 cm. 4-centimeter flowers of a bluish color with a yellow central part grow on high peduncles. The pharynx is lighter, somewhat reminiscent of a keyhole.

Streptocarpus primulifolius

This rosette species grows up to 4 flowers. The color of the flowers, covered with stripes and dots, varies from light purple to white. The stem reaches a height of up to a quarter of a meter.

Streptocarpus saxorum / Streptocarpus saxorum

It grows at an altitude of over 1 km in the mountains of the tropical zones in eastern Africa. The stems reach 0.5 m in length and droop. The leaves are fleshy and small, reach 3 cm in length and are elliptical in shape. Peduncles grow from leaf axils and grow up to 7.5 cm. The edges of the flowers are light purple, and the flower itself and pharynx are white.

Streptocarpus caulescens

The stem is straight, slightly more than 0.5 m in height. The leaves grow opposite on the stem. The flowers are similar to Saintpaulia flowers - slightly inclined downwards, light blue in color.

Streptocarpus Holstii / Streptocarpus holstii

It grows naturally in tropical zones in eastern Africa. The fleshy stems reach almost 0.5 m in height and are very flexible. The pubescent leaves are located opposite on the stem, have a wrinkled texture and grow up to 5 cm in length. The three-centimeter flowers are painted purple, and the corolla tube is white.

Possible problems in growing streptocarpus

The main problematic and weak points of the crop are diseases of the leaf blades and attacks of parasitic insects. Most pathologies are associated with violations of agricultural technology rules:

• The leaves are turning pale. Blanching is recorded when there is insufficient supply of nutrients or excessive growth of the bush. The best solution to the problem is replanting and adding a special nutrient mixture.
• The tips of the leaves dry out. Drying occurs when the air is too dry or the container is cramped. The tips of the plates will stop drying after transferring the bush to a new container and normalizing the humidity in the room.
• Leaves fall. The destructive heat causes lethargy and loss of leaves. The culture needs to be moved to a cooler room with diffused lighting. Remove damaged plates.

Pests

The appearance of thrips, aphids, spider mites and scale insects is associated with increased dryness of indoor air. If parasitic insects are detected, it is necessary to increase the humidity and treat with insecticides. Experienced flower growers prefer to use Fitoverm. It can be used to destroy various types of parasites. The solution is considered less toxic than similar drugs.

Important! It is necessary to spray not only the green part of the bushes, but also the substrate in the pot, since many insects like to hide in it. Thrips infestation

Thrips infestation

Other problems

The tropical origin of the crop requires its own characteristics: it needs light and airy soil, sufficient drainage and the absence of stagnant water. With constant overwatering, the root system of the bush will begin to rot, and it will stop throwing out babies and forming buds.

Domestic specimens are often affected by a variety of fungal infections. The list includes rust, rot and powdery mildew. Pathology develops due to improper supervision: constant stagnation of fluid or temperature disturbances. To avoid active propagation of diseases, it is necessary to carry out regular inspections of the plant and promptly spray the affected bushes with fungicidal solutions. Before irrigation, all damaged areas are removed.

Streptocarpus is famous for its unpretentiousness, but leaving it on the windowsill and occasionally watering it will not work. It requires a certain temperature, humidity, fertilizing and diffused lighting with maximum daylight hours.

Propagation by seeds

The method of propagation from seeds is the most difficult . It requires caution, since the plant’s seeds are small. For good germination, use freshly collected planting material. The longer the seeds are stored, the fewer will sprout. The reproduction process is as follows:

1. 
   Prepare a plastic pot with a lid. The bottom must be solid, without drainage holes. But make several holes in the lid for ventilation.

2. Place a layer of coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite on the bottom of the pot, and then a layer of moist soil mixture.
3. For better planting, pour the seeds onto a dry piece of paper and then spread them evenly over the surface of the ground.
4. Seeds germinate in the light, so leave them on the surface of the soil without covering them.
5. Cover the container with film with holes or a lid. The soil should be moist, as the seeds should not be watered after sowing.

ATTENTION : The disadvantage of seed propagation is that the grown plants do not retain their varietal characteristics.

Watch a video about the propagation of streptocarpus by seeds:

Landing

The ideal time for sowing streptocarpus for seedlings is considered to be the end of January - beginning of February. This process is painstaking and cannot be rushed. Small bowls are prepared for future seedlings, with drainage at the bottom. Soil or a prepared substrate is poured onto the drainage layer, then the soil is moistened.

Seeds are planted superficially in the soil; they are not covered with soil on top or deepened into it, although sometimes they are sprayed from above with a fine spray. After planting, the container is covered with plastic film or glass on top to ensure a greenhouse effect. The bowl is removed to a warm place where the temperature is approximately +21-24 degrees.

During the entire period of their germination, it is necessary to regularly remove glass or film from the container to ventilate the seedlings. Do not place the container in a dark place, as this can increase germination time and cause the sprouts to reach up in search of the sun. As a result, they will be elongated but weak. Watering at this time is carried out through a tray so as not to wash away the seeds and prevent them from rotting.

As for the stratification of perennials, its relevance should be looked at on the seed packages in the store. If it does not indicate that it is necessary to stratify streptocarpus, there is no point in this procedure. This will not affect germination, because even for perennials, the best and highest quality seeds are those that are planted immediately after ripening.

Transfer

Transplantation of streptocarpus

Streptocarpus, oddly enough, needs to be replanted every spring. The best time for this is the end of February-beginning of March. Exceptions are those cases when the leaves and shoots are already beginning to grow outside the pot. There's nothing you can do about it. We need to save the plant. It will thank you later with abundant flowering.

You need to start replanting by laying a drainage layer in a new pot; two centimeters will be enough. After this, carefully transplant the flower into a new pot and cover it with pre-prepared soil. After transplantation, abundant watering is required for two days. The water must be boiled and settled accordingly. This needs to be taken care of in advance.

Reproduction of streptocarpus by leaf

Flower propagation is carried out in several ways. Rooting methods may seem complicated at first glance. In fact, they are light and almost identical.

Read more Why streptocarpus leaves dry (wither): photos, reasons and what to do

How to root a streptocarpus leaf in the ground

Rooting occurs after 14 days. Babies begin to appear after 1.5-2 months.

Rooting streptocarpus with a leaf is chosen by gardeners more often than other methods. If you carry out the process competently, the plant will certainly delight you with healthy offspring.

How to plant streptocarpus in the ground:

1. Take a pot no larger than 100 ml in volume. A plastic cup with holes will do. It's better to use a glass. This will allow you to easily monitor the development of the root system.
2. Fill ⅓ of the part with soil and make a hole.
3. Disinfect the cut leaf with a solution to protect the plant from infections and fungal diseases.
4. Deepen it 1.5-2 cm into the soil. Do not compact.

When the babies appear and grow up to 2 cm, you can transplant them into a separate container. It is recommended to keep them in a greenhouse, sometimes ventilating them.
This way the children will gradually get used to the room conditions. How to propagate streptocarpus from a leaf can be seen in the video:

How to root a streptocarpus leaf in water

The chances of propagating the plant in water are very low. It is more effective to use a fragment of a leaf with a central and lateral veins.

Reproduction in water is a long and painstaking procedure. If it is enough to cut off a small shoot of Saintpaulia, then with streptocarpus everything is more complicated.

Reproduction of streptocarpus in water:

1. Cut a leaf 5 cm long or take a small cutting. Dust the cut with charcoal.
2. Fill the glass halfway with water and place the streptocarpus in the water. Use the liquid boiled and cooled to room temperature. You can take rainwater.
3. Periodically it is necessary to add water. Sometimes even children are formed.

When a good root system is formed, the plant should be transplanted into the ground.

A greenhouse is not needed for propagation in water.

Reproduction of streptocarpus with a leaf fragment

Propagation of Streptocarpus from leaves is very easy, in many ways easier than African violets and many other indoor plants. It happens quite quickly and abundantly.

If you follow these simple, step-by-step instructions, you'll have no problem getting more of your favorite varieties:

1. Cut off the healthy part with scissors. It is better to use a species that is mature but not too old. Those plants that have many veins are the best for propagation. To root streptocarpus with a leaf fragment, a portion of 1.5-3 cm is sufficient.
2. Remove the middle part - the large vein. If the leaf is large, trim some of the outer edges.
3. Create a gap or furrow in the root medium into which the leaf area can be placed. Make sure the soil is very light and porous. It should be moist, but not soggy.
4. Place the resulting fragment in a glass with soil to a depth of 6-10 mm. It is advisable to place it vertically, then the likelihood of rotting is small.

More details Streptocarpus: photos of flowers with names and descriptions, video

Be sure to label the pot with the name of the variety that will be propagated.

If streptocarpus is propagated from a leaf fragment, it may lose turgor immediately after transplantation. To do this, the pot must be placed in a greenhouse, and after 14 days the turgor will be restored.

How to root a fragment of a streptocarpus leaf

Reproduction is also carried out from fragments. To do this, you should choose a large sheet with a noticeable number of veins. The more there are, the more children there will be.

Rooting streptocarpus with a leaf fragment - step-by-step instructions:

1. Disinfect the knife or blade. Cut the leaf, cut crosswise, removing the central vein. You will get 2 parts.
2. Pour up to 2 cm of soil into a low bowl up to 30 mm high or a square pot.
3. Make shallow grooves in the soil, place fragments in them and lightly sprinkle.

After 2 months, small babies will appear near the lateral veins. After another 60 days they will reach a length of 3-4 cm. Now they can be transplanted from the mother leaf.

The video will tell you about the propagation of streptocarpus with a fragment of a leaf:

Streptocarpus care and cultivation

Choosing a pot

A small pot will help ensure a comfortable existence for streptocarpus. Drainage is placed at the bottom for better ventilation of the root system.

Question:

Which pot to choose for streptocarpus depending on the age of the plant?

Answer:

For children, you can choose small pots 5-6 cm in diameter or ordinary plastic glasses. A young plant will need a pot with a diameter of 6-8 cm, and an adult will feel fine in a pot measuring 12-14 cm.

Containers with a diameter of 16 cm or more are not recommended for streptocarpus, as it will be easier to fill the plants with water in them and cause rotting of the roots

Streptocarpus will feel good in transport pots that have a small height and significant width, which ensures uniform ventilation and moisture

The soil

In fact, any experienced gardener who has been growing flowers for many years has a universal substrate recipe. Whatever the type of streptocarpus, caring for it at home begins with properly selected soil.

If you buy a ready-made high-density substrate, it needs to be diluted with vermiculite, sphagnum moss or perlite. The root system of streptocarpus grows and develops quite quickly. However, the selected soil may not be suitable for the plant, which will hinder this.

If there are several streptocarpus, then it is advisable to first transplant one plant into new soil and observe its condition.

Streptocarpus will grow and develop well in clean peat or peat with vermiculite in the same ratio. But in such soil, the flower must be watered often and abundantly so that the peat does not turn into a monolithic piece that cannot be wetted

Required temperature

Streptocarpus thrives in moderately hot weather. The optimal temperature for its existence is 24-26 °C. If the indicator exceeds the specified norm, the appearance of the flower immediately deteriorates, its leaves become lethargic and begin to dry out. This flower must also be protected from direct sunlight.

In the winter season, 15 °C in the room will be enough for the flower to survive normally. In winter, it goes into a dormant period.

Even a strong and powerful plant needs rest, and winter is the most suitable time of year for streptocarpus. To do this, you need to reduce the frequency and abundance of watering the flower, stop feeding it and provide lighting for up to 8 hours a day.

Watering

Streptocarpus is not a plant that needs strict and regular heavy watering to survive. This plant will normally tolerate a slight drying of the substrate. This flower needs to be watered a little less often than a violet. But if it is provided with frequent and regular watering, the plant will not mind either, since this has a beneficial effect on its root system.

In case of lack of watering

the plant begins to droop its leaves a little. But in this situation there is no great criticality. The flower should be watered with a small amount of liquid and this procedure should be repeated after a few hours.

It is much more important for streptocarpus to water with the optimal amount of water, since an excess of liquid, especially on a regular basis, negatively affects its root

From excess fluid

the flower begins to fade, the leaves lose their natural shine, sag and may become covered with spots or brown spots. In this case, it will be more difficult to save the plant than from overdrying. You can try to replant it, preferably as soon as possible, and place it in a greenhouse for a short period.

The optimal watering regime should be selected depending on the drying of the top layer of soil.

Although streptocarpus do not like overwatering, they tolerate humidity, especially high humidity, very well. Therefore, flowers can be frequently and abundantly moistened with a spray bottle. You just need to make sure that after the procedure the foliage and flowers are not exposed to direct sunlight, especially in summer.

Top dressing

Indoor streptocarpus responds very well to feeding. Children without flowering are fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers with the addition of phosphorus. To avoid overfeeding, it is preferable to divide the recommended doses into 2 meals.

It is necessary to feed streptocarpus frequently, you can even carry out the procedure every week. In this case, the concentration of the substance must be gradually reduced

To stimulate growth and set good buds, adult plants will need fertilizer, which contains large quantities of potassium and phosphorus, with a little nitrogen added.

A positive result of fertilizing is the growth of foliage, which in the future will ensure lush flowering

Transfer

Streptocarpus is a plant that not only has a positive attitude towards transplants, but even, one might say, loves them. It is necessary to replant the plant as it grows. If streptocarpus has abundant foliage, you can transplant it into a pot in which the flower will feel more free.

Another option for transplanting a lush flower is division.

Then the main part can be left in the old pot. After transplantation, streptocarpus should be watered exclusively from above for 3 weeks. After this, you can water from the tray. A 1 cm layer of drainage is placed at the bottom of the new pot and a light substrate is selected so that the root system can develop freely and well.

Reproduction

Streptocarpus is distinguished from the house violet by its reproduction. This process will be a little complicated and time-consuming. This plant will not work when you can break off a leaf, put it in water, then transplant it into a pot and wait for rooting. To propagate streptocarpus, you can choose one of the propagation methods:

• cuttings;
• seeds;
• dividing the bush;
• pinning.

Propagation of streptocarpus by cuttings

can also be carried out according to two schemes. The first includes the following stages:

1. It is necessary to cut the leaf, dividing it into 2-3 parts.
2. Select a fragment 2 cm long.
3. The base of the fragment needs to be narrowed down and given the shape of a leg to speed up the rooting process.
4. Then you need to prepare plastic cups in which drainage and a light substrate with peat, sphagnum moss, vermiculite and perlite are placed.
5. A 1 cm depression is created on the soil surface where the fragment is placed.
6. Using the substrate, you need to lightly secure it so that it does not fall or dangle, and place the cup in the greenhouse.
7. The babies should appear in about a month.
8. When two or three pairs of leaves form on them, they can be transplanted into separate containers.

In the second option, it is also necessary to separate the leaf from the plant and cut it lengthwise, as well as extract the central vein from it. According to the previous description, both halves of the leaf are planted in the soil.

The method of propagating streptocarpus by cuttings with longitudinal cutting of the leaf allows you to get more children, but with a lower probability of their survival

Propagation by seeds

– the most labor-intensive and complex process that will take a significant amount of time. You can buy ready-made seeds or get them from two plants. To do this you need to pollinate. After two to three months, a box with seeds appears. They should be used for planting.

Dividing the bush

- This is the simplest, fastest and safest method.

If streptocarpus in a pot has grown into several bushes, then you can simply plant them in separate containers

This propagation method should not be used if Streptocarpus is still young. Moreover, this is not the way to transplant children. While the plant is at the stage of active growth, a large cluster of bushes will allow it to bloom more profusely

Pinning method

includes the following stages:

• on the bush you need to find the largest and juiciest leaf; there is no need to tear it off;
• on the back side on the central core you need to make several cuts at a distance of 2-3 cm;
• this sheet is tilted towards the ground and secured in such a way that it can remain in place, but its cuts touch the ground.

After about 1-1.5 months, new leaves should appear from each cut.

How to care for this flower?

Let's look at how to properly care for a plant so that it grows and develops quickly.

Soil and fertilizers

The soil for the plant needs to be loose, air- and moisture-permeable. The substrate for violets is perfect. Add a little perlite or peat to it. When preparing your own soil mixture, you can use the following recipes:

1. Deciduous soil, peat, sand (2:1:1).
2. Peat, perlite, sphagnum moss - in equal parts.
3. Deciduous humus, bark, peat, sand - in equal proportions.

Add a little crushed charcoal to the prepared substrate. Thanks to it, stagnation of water in the soil and rotting of the root system are prevented.

To grow streptocarpus, you can use a mixture of peat and vermiculite, taken in equal proportions. If you plant a plant in only one peat, then you need to take into account that watering should be frequent. Otherwise, the peat will turn into a monolithic dry piece.

Reference! Sterilize the purchased substrate or prepare it yourself before using it for planting. To do this, keep it in the oven for 15 minutes.

From spring to autumn, streptocarpus requires regular feeding. Perform them once every 7-10 days. Liquid complex formulations are suitable for flowering indoor plants. For this crop, you can alternate potassium and nitrogen products. Just reduce the dosage indicated on the package by 2 times. In winter, fertilizing is not required.

Regular application of fertilizer will allow you to achieve beautiful and abundant flowering.

Young plants that have recently been rooted should be fertilized with nitrogen compounds. When forming buds, mixtures with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus are used. You can buy ready-made fertilizers:

• New ideal.
• Violet.
• Super bloom.
• Kemira Suite.

Apply nutritional compounds only to moist soil, preferably after watering. This will avoid burning the roots of the plant.

Trimming

In order for the plant to produce as many flower stalks as possible, it is necessary to carry out regular pruning. To do this, remove the lower old leaves, as they take strength and nutrients from the flower.

Watering

To moisturize, use soft, settled or melt water. Its temperature should be room temperature. The plant tolerates a lack of moisture better than excess. So it is undesirable to flood streptocarpus, as this will kill it.

Moisturizing should be moderate. Perform the next watering only after the middle layer of soil in the pot has dried. The best option is to water from a tray or along the edge of the pot. Half an hour after moistening, remove the remaining liquid from the pan.

Important! When watering, make sure that water does not penetrate the leaves and flowers.

Humidity

To successfully grow a flower, it is necessary to maintain humidity in the region of 50-70%. To achieve this goal, place containers of water near the flower. Moistening the above-ground parts of the plant is strictly prohibited.

Temperature

Streptocarpus responds positively to heat. In summer, the optimal temperature remains 20-25 degrees. As the temperature rises, increase the air humidity proportionally: in winter, for ordinary plant varieties, the temperature will be 15-18 degrees, for hybrid varieties - 18-20 degrees

It is important not to allow the temperature to drop below 13 degrees, and for hybrids - 16 degrees

Drafts have a detrimental effect on a flower, so it is important to protect it from them. It is not recommended to take pots out into the open sky, as the plant feels comfortable in indoor conditions

Brief description of cultivation

1. Bloom . It starts in spring and ends in autumn.
2. Illumination . The light needs to be bright, but diffused.
3. Temperature regime . In the spring-summer period, the air temperature should be at least 20 degrees and no more than 25 degrees. Starting from October, the temperature should be gradually reduced to 15 degrees.
4. Watering . Throughout the growing season, streptocarpus should be watered systematically and moderately. From October, watering should be reduced, and in winter it should be scanty, but care must be taken to ensure that the lump of earth in the pot does not dry out completely.
5. Air humidity . Moderate.
6. Fertilizer . During intensive growth, the bush is fed once every 7 days, and a complex mineral fertilizer is used for this.
7. Rest period . From the first days of October to February.
8. Transplant . Bushes are replanted in the first weeks of spring: young bushes - once a year, and adults - once every 3-4 years.
9. Soil mixture . Ready substrate for Saintpaulia. Or you can take an earth mixture consisting of sand, humus, leaf and turf soil (1: 1: 2: 3). If the bush is young, then leaf soil is taken instead of turf soil.
10. Reproduction . Leaf cuttings, dividing the bush, as well as the seed method.
11. Harmful insects . Scale insects, thrips, whiteflies, mealybugs and spider mites.
12. Diseases . Gray rot.

Streptocarpus. Care and reproduction

Transplantation of streptocarpus

After a month or a month and a half, when the children feel cramped in small cups, I transfer them into plastic pots no more than 8-9 cm in diameter. This volume is enough for first-year plants. The soil for adult specimens should be rich in organic matter, but always light, loose and airy. After about 4-6 months from the moment of planting a fragment of a leaf, you can rejoice at the first flowers - this is a worthy reward for work, diligence and patience.

It is often recommended to dry the cuttings for several minutes before planting. But I didn’t notice any difference between dried and undried cuttings, so I plant them immediately, deepening them a centimeter. Since the soil in the containers is moist, I don’t water it after planting, but I spray the cuttings from a spray bottle with Isar or Epin solution.

After this, I sign the names of the varieties and the date of planting, close the container with a lid and place it in a bright, warm place. It’s good if there is a shelving unit with lighting. If not, no problem, a window sill will do, provided that the container is not exposed to direct sunlight, otherwise the cuttings will simply “cook” in it.

Related link: Plant propagation Part 1 Part 2 and Part 3

How to propagate a plant?

Leaf

Propagation from leaves is considered the easiest . The bushing flower expands due to the growth of lateral formed bushes and is easily divided into parts. Thanks to division, the bush rejuvenates.

From seeds

This method, despite its complexity, is considered the most interesting. Propagation from seeds is an excellent opportunity to obtain a new type of plant, which can be given its own name. To grow seeds, two plants are used that pollinate each other.

Now you know how streptocarpus reproduces.

Why Streptocarpus does not bloom: diseases, problems and pests

Spider mite on streptocarpus

A plant may not bloom for the following reasons:

• A variety is grown that simply does not flower in the cold season.
• The age at which the plant is just beginning to gain strength.
• Streptocarpus will not bloom if it is not properly cared for. Improper watering, fertilizing and replanting can cause the buds to not bloom.

To avoid such problems, it is necessary to properly care for the flower, as well as remove damaged areas and treat the bush with fungicides.

Pests can be dangerous to a flower only if it is not properly cared for. The most dangerous are thrips, spider mites and aphids. To combat them, it is enough to regularly treat the bush with insecticides.

Important! Uninfected plants growing next to a sick individual must be treated for preventive purposes. Streptocarpus will be an excellent option for an ornamental plant for growing at home.

The most common varieties, such as Crocus and others like it, will create a feeling of coziness and comfort at home

Streptocarpus will be an excellent option for an ornamental plant for growing at home. The most common varieties, such as Crocus and others like it, will create a feeling of coziness and comfort at home.

Streptocarpus diseases and treatment methods

Streptocarpus, like most other plants, are susceptible to various diseases, which not only affect their appearance, but can also lead to death

Diseases are usually easy to diagnose by noticing how the flower looks. In order to understand whether streps is sick, you can compare your home flower with photographs of plants affected by a particular disease

Doesn't bloom

If a flower looks healthy, but does not bloom, first of all you need to pay attention to the correctness of its maintenance. The plant does not bloom in cases where it does not have enough light or the ground is too wet

If a lack of light can be dealt with quickly by simply moving the pot to a new place, then an excess of moisture can lead to serious consequences.

If streptocarpus does not bloom precisely because of an excess of moisture, then it must be transplanted into new soil, making sure to cut off all rotten areas. Another reason for the lack of flower stalks is the lack of nutrients in the soil. Adding mineral fertilizers will correct the situation.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is the consequence of improper flower maintenance. Excessive watering or inappropriate air temperature can cause the disease. A thin white coating appears on the leaves, under which wounds and sores may appear over time.

In order to rid the flower of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all the affected leaves and replace the top layer of soil in the container.

Streptocarpus is also dusted with wood ash and watered with a disinfecting solution of potassium permanganate for several weeks. In addition, it is necessary to treat the soil with Topaz or Baktofit. In most cases, streps respond well to treatment and quickly regain their strength.

Gray rot

Gray mold is a fungal disease that affects both the above-ground part of strep and its roots. The cause of the disease is improper watering of the plant and high room temperature. The disease manifests itself in the form of brown spots covered with a gray coating over the entire surface of the flower. Treatment includes removing the affected parts, treating the sections with an antiseptic, rinsing under running water and treating the strep and soil with Trichodermin.

Further, for treatment, it is enough to adhere to the watering regime and temperature.

Rot of roots, stems and petioles

Brown spots appear on streps affected by this type of disease, the petioles darken, and the leaves lose turgor. If rot appears, it is necessary to remove the damaged areas, treat the cuts with an antiseptic (for example, activated carbon), arrange watering (water as the top layer dries), provide the streptocarpus with enough light (but protect it from the scorching rays of the sun), treat the flower with Pseudobacterin, and water the soil with Fundazol.

Rot

Change in appearance, reasons

Under the influence of certain unfavorable reasons, the appearance of the plant changes. Insufficient lighting leads to a lack of flowering, and excess moisture affects not only the ability to bloom, but also the health of the foliage. A flower that arrives in conditions of constant humidity is susceptible to various fungal diseases, which cause significant harm to its appearance.

Streps can stop growing, become lethargic, and leaves lose their elasticity if there is insufficient watering.

Keeping streptocarpus in a hot room with stagnant air will cause it to dry out, and the peduncles and leaves will be the first to suffer. And direct sunlight on the flower can cause burns.

The appearance of “rust” on the leaves indicates excessive watering or exceeding the norm of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The infected parts of the plant are removed, the flower is treated with fungicides in two stages when the first signs of the disease are detected and after 14 days.

It will also be interesting: Anthurium does not bloom - why and what to do at home?

Streptocarpus description and features

There are more than 130 species of this amazing flower in the world. In addition, there are also decorative hybrid varieties. However, they are all characterized by the following appearance features: Perennial plants without stems. They are grown exclusively at home; plants do not take root outdoors due to the harsh Russian climate. The seed pod, when ripe, has a spiral shape. Thanks to this nuance, the flower got its name (from the ancient Greek “streptocarpus” - “curved box”). The leaves are long and converge at the base into a small rosette. In some varieties, the leaves reach 30 cm with wavy or smooth edges. They are variegated, bright emerald, pale green. The volume of greenery also varies: some varieties boast many leaves, others have only one. Flowers are obtained as regular, semi-double and double. Their diameter also depends on the variety - they can grow from 2 to 9 cm. If the flowers are very small, many of them grow on the peduncle. And there is only one “giant flower” on the peduncle. The colors of streptocarpus are amazing. They can be anything: all shades of red/blue/purple, yellow, white. And single hybrids are even painted in two or three different colors.

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In its beauty, streptocarpus is not inferior to the magnificent Saintpaulia (Uzambara violet), and some varieties even surpass it in their grace. At the same time, caring for streptocarpus is much easier than caring for violet.

So, it is not capricious when ripening and does not lose leaves at the slightest change in weather. At the same time, plants with miniature flowers are ideal for summer residents with a limited area for planting. But if in America this unique plant has already become widespread, in our country it is just taking root.

Types and varieties

Today, in most cases, only professional gardeners can boast of non-hybrid species, which, by the way, are more difficult to grow than hybrid ones. They are always more whimsical to environmental conditions and react to the slightest deviation in ambient air humidity, temperature, drafts or watering intensity. Only a competent gardener will be able to constantly maintain a fine line without violating it, so that the flower remains in excellent condition for a long time and gives beauty to others.

Species found in the wild include:

Rocky. This variety is distinguished by a woody, strong base, medium-sized purple inflorescences and oval leaves.

When growing this species, it is important to especially carefully maintain humidity and temperature within acceptable limits. By the way, very often the rock species is confused with the false African violet due to the great similarity

Wendlanda

Original variety. Its differences: one, but very large leaf, green at the end and purple at the base. It is crowned with a loose cluster of several purple flowers. Wendlanda dies immediately after flowering and reproduces only by seed. Stem-forming. This variety is distinguished by the fact that it reaches a height of 40-60 centimeters. At the top of the rosette, small drooping inflorescences of a soft blue color most often bloom. Pick. Small shoots 10-15 centimeters long are crowned with miniature clusters of umbrella-shaped flowers. The petals are characterized by a predominant lilac hue. Royal. The ancestor of all domestic specimens, first appearing in Europe in the 19th century. The traditional soft red hue of the inflorescences and medium-sized leaves, not exceeding 25 centimeters, are its main differences. The creation of many hybrid samples began with him.

In fact, today it is much easier to grow hybrid forms. They are less demanding to care for, and in beauty they are in no way inferior to the best wild specimens. Among the most famous are the following:

Fashion statement

Famous for its beautiful and large flowers. The petals are predominantly white, acquiring dark blue veins closer to the base, turning into a solid purple hue at the stem.

Texas Hot Chili

Small in size and slow growing variety. This streptocarpus is crowned with very beautiful bright red flowers with a yellow base.

Description of the plant

Streptocarpus is an annual or perennial shrub that grows in the tropical forests of Africa and East Asia. The plant does not tolerate shade at all. Considering the fact that mainly hybrids are grown on window sills, the seed propagation method will not allow the sprouts to inherit the properties of the mother plant. However, among other propagation methods it is considered the most effective.

Streptocarpus is also unique in that it can be made to bloom almost all year round. To do this, artificial conditions for comfortable growth and development are created for him. The ornamental plant has about 130 varieties, which, depending on the type, may differ in appearance and growing conditions. For example, among them there are herbaceous varieties and plants that feel comfortable in a dry climate.

The flowers also differ, which can be simple, semi-double or densely double. Their color can be very diverse; you can grow not only one-color, but also two-color streptocarpus with different types of color. For example, it could be a pale blue flower with dark blue stripes on the lower petals, or a double specimen with a pink top and a milky yellow bottom.

The shape of the petals also differs: depending on the type, it can be pronounced, divided into 5 petals, or terry-corrugated, where the petals seem to be something single, cut along the edges.

Streptocarpus varieties with photos and names

It is rare to find wild streptocarpus in homes, as breeders have developed many beautiful hybrids. Streptocarpus is classified as a rosette plant. Its stem is short, and the leaves are lanceolate, green, sometimes variegated. Breeders and nature itself offer over 130 varieties. Among them there are stem ones with small flowers, rosette ones with large leaves and single-leaved ones. You can choose varieties with different colors and textures of petals. The soft pink color of Streptocarpus Betula is beautiful.

Enchanting Betula

An equally beautiful variety with the funny name Green Beard

Domestic selection is often marked with the CF brand. Popular varieties are Tsf-Amaretto, Tsf-Baltic Sea, Tsf-Valentina and Tsf-Juliet.

Bright variety Moskvichka

Breeder Vyacheslav Paramonov has developed many varieties, the peculiarity of which is the large size of the flowers: white streptocarpus with a blue-purple pattern of the Sea Patterns variety is difficult to forget. The ruffled white and pink petals of the Spring Dreams variety seem like a real treasure.

Spectacular dark purple petals of DS-Gipnoz

Varieties from foreign collections with red, bright blue flowers and a wide variety of patterns and flower shapes can be the subject of envy.

Excellent variety AnnaSui

BossaNova - an elegant looking flower on your windowsill

Many people love the hybrid streptocarpus Volna. You can buy seeds that will allow you to grow an interesting combination on your windowsill.

Medium-sized flowers on a compact bush look great

It is not surprising that once you have acquired one variety of streptocarpus, you then want more and more.

Streptocarpus - description, belonging to the family

The Streptocarpus flower was first discovered in 1818 in the mountains of South Africa. Its name is a combination of two Greek words: streptos - curled and karpos - fruit. The bush was named so for a reason. The fact is that its seeds during the ripening period have the shape of a box. It is characterized by large leaf blades and long peduncles on which buds of a blue or purple hue are located.

Streptocarpus (appearance)

Additional Information! Streptocarpus is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Therefore, it is often called Cape primrose.

Currently, almost 150 species of wild Cape primrose are known. Some of them grow on rocky surfaces, others on trees. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in the shade or in sunny meadows. They can be either annuals or perennials. But they all have one thing in common - they belong to the Gesneriev family.

Domestic varieties are usually not large in size - they rarely reach a height of more than 40 cm, and peduncles grow no more than 25 cm. The leaves of the flower are quite large - 30 cm in length and up to 7 cm in width.

Blooming buds, in addition to the standard colors, can have different shades:

• red,
• purple,
• pink,
• yellow,
• black,
• with stripes,
• speckled,
• with patterns.

This is interesting! Another distinctive feature of Streptocarpus is the fruit, which has a spiral shape.

Main types of streptocarpus

Most of the beautifully flowering varieties and species have been selected; photos with the names of such streptocarpus are extremely impressive. There are approximately 130 wild varieties, but their decorative value is small. However, it is precisely these wild streptocarpus that breeders use to obtain new beautifully flowering domestic plants. The main classification according to the type of development, as well as the shape of the plant, looks like this:

1. Unifoliate - there is only one leaf blade, but a large one - capable of growing up to 1 m, with a width of 50-60 cm. During ripening, a pair of additional leaves may form, but they do not develop, remaining in the state of “embryos”.
2. Stem - lush flowering, but the flowers are small.
3. Rosette varieties - the overwhelming majority of hybrid varieties - are representatives of this group. They produce many large and medium-sized flowers from one rosette.

Fuchsia - growing and care at home Fuchsia is an unusually beautiful, evergreen decorative flower.
For more than 200 years, fuchsias, or, as they are also called,... In apartment conditions, in most cases, rosette streptocarpus are grown, although sometimes stem or single-leaf streptocarpus are also chosen. Such plants do not require significant space and grow well on windowsills. Hybrids are the main part of exotic flower varieties that are grown in indoor floriculture; wild varieties are now little popular. The varieties of streptocarpus that are taken for apartments and houses more often than others are:

1. Royal - the leaf plates are elongated, pubescent, grow up to 25 cm. The inflorescences are a rich purple hue, there are purple stripes inside the pharynx.
2. Wendlanda is a single leaf plate, it grows up to 90 cm. Its appearance is “wrinkled”, it is pubescent, colored green on the outside and lilac-scarlet on the back. The peduncle is quite long, there are 15-20 inflorescences on it. The flowers of this streptocarpus are lilac-blue. The variety is propagated exclusively by seed material. After flowering the plant dies.
3. Pickaxe is an ampel plant, growing up to 15 cm. The inflorescences are umbellate, faded-lilac.
4. Stem-forming - indoor flower reaches 40-60 cm in height, drooping inflorescences, pastel blue color.
5. Rocky is a perennial with a woody base. Quite small oval leaves are pubescent. The shoots are well branched; in the summer-autumn season this plant enters the flowering phase. The inflorescences are medium-sized, purple in color.

Note! In recent years, breeders have developed over 1000 container flower hybrids of different shades.

When to plant and what conditions are needed for this?

Before planting, it is worth considering some conditions:

The room for the flower is chosen to be cool

The temperature should be about +12..+14 degrees. The air should have high humidity. Lighting is required diffused. An important factor is the correct selection of container for the flower. It is also important to know what soil mixture is needed.. When should you plant? Planting is done in summer

It is best to do this in June, then you can be sure that the cyclamen will bloom in the fall. If planted in August, flowers will appear in late autumn or winter.

When should you plant? The plant is planted in the summer. It is best to do this in June, then you can be sure that the cyclamen will bloom in the fall. If planted in August, flowers will appear in late autumn or winter.

Preparation: soil and pot

Priming. For planting, you will need a nutritious and light substrate that will allow air and moisture to pass through well. The mixture is prepared from equal portions of leaf soil, sand, humus and peat

You can also buy ready-made soil for cyclamens. Important! The acidity level should not exceed 5.5-6.5 pH.

Pot. The plant does not feel comfortable in large containers

A suitable size would be a pot of 10-14 centimeters. If you take less container, the cyclamen will bloom weakly and ahead of time. A large pot will lead to rotting of the roots. There must be a hole of about 1-2 centimeters at the base of the container. It is necessary for the smooth passage of water.

Seeds

1. Before planting seeds, they must be kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 12 hours.
2. In the previously prepared soil you need to make a 10 mm groove, which is then watered generously.
3. The distance at which the seeds are placed should be 2-3 centimeters. Next they are covered with earth.
4. After the seeds have been planted, they are covered with polyethylene or glass.
5. When the first shoots appear, you need to remove the film or glass.
6. Now the sprouts are moved to a well-lit place and positioned so that direct sunlight does not fall on the flower.
7. When several leaves form on the seedlings, they are planted in pots of 2-3 pieces.
8. During transplantation, the tubers must be completely covered with soil.
9. After 5-6 months, the cyclamen is planted in a larger pot.

From the video you will learn how to sow Cyclamen seeds:

Tubers

1. First, the bulb is removed from the soil and dried.
2. Then it is cut with a knife, and at least one bud and a couple of roots must be left for each part.
3. Next, leave it in a dark place so that the cut can dry.
4. The cut must be sprinkled with wood or crushed activated carbon. This will help cope with diseases and germs.
5. The pot definitely needs drainage; expanded clay is suitable as drainage.
6. After planting the tuber, the pot should be removed from direct rays.

Care

• Lighting . Streptocarpus is a light-loving plant, so it needs to be grown in a well-lit place. But you should avoid direct sunlight to prevent the flower from wilting.
• Premises . It is better to grow streptocarpus indoors where there are no drafts. This plant cannot tolerate them; they can cause flower diseases and death.
• Features of caring for seeds at home:
  Watering is carried out using a tray. You can’t water it from above, otherwise you can wash away all the seeds.
• After the formation of the first leaves, the seedlings should be ventilated.
• When the real leaves begin to grow, you can make the first pick. To do this, plant the plants in a larger pot so that they do not interfere with each other.
• Features of caring for leaf shoots:
  Place the dishes with planted parts of the leaf in a plastic bag.
• There is no need to make holes for ventilation.
• It is advisable to avoid contact between the leaves and the bag; you can build special supports.
• Place the greenhouse in a warm and well-lit place.

We talked more about proper care of streptocarpus in a separate article.

Reproduction and planting at home

The process of planting and growing a crop requires compliance with the following conditions:

1. Newly purchased young specimens should be replanted 2 weeks after purchase. To do this, use transparent containers. This will allow you to monitor the development of the root system in the future.
2. For successful cultivation, plant the flower in shallow containers. This will ensure lush flowering and growth of green mass. The more growing points a plant has, the more flower stalks it will produce.
3. Young specimens need to be cared for properly. First, such plants must grow green mass, and only then bloom. So it is recommended to cut off the resulting flower stalks.
4. Properly selected temperature conditions, air humidity and systemic watering will allow you to grow and propagate a beautiful ornamental flowering crop.

Reproduction

Streptocarpus can be propagated in different ways: using seeds, dividing the bush, cuttings and using leaf veins. We will look at the most common methods, using seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Growing from seeds

Streptocarpus shoots

You need to sow seeds evenly over the entire surface of the soil. After this, the container must be covered with glass, thus creating a small greenhouse. Watering should be done through a tray, the air temperature should be 20 C, and the light should be diffused. Don't forget to ventilate the container periodically.

After six weeks, the glass can be slightly moved aside, and then removed completely. Picking seedlings is simply necessary and must be done extremely carefully. You can sow streptocarpus seeds at any time of the year.

Cuttings

Propagation of streptocarpus by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is carried out in this way:

1. First, a healthy leaf without external damage is cut off.
2. Then the petiole itself is carefully trimmed with a sharp blade.
3. After this procedure, you need to let the petiole dry and then it can be planted in a separate small pot, placing it vertically.
4. Do not forget to treat the seedling with a fungicidal preparation.
5. At the end, the pot must be covered with film.

Young shoots will appear no earlier than four weeks. When they are strong enough, they can be transplanted into a larger pot.

Dividing the bush

Reproduction of streptocarpus by dividing the bush

Only very overgrown flowers can be propagated using this method. Before the procedure, you need to water the plant, then you can pull it out. After this, we remove all the old soil from the roots. When the bush is ready, use a sharp knife to separate one part of the main root along with the foliage. After this, we take the separated parts out into the fresh air and dry them; the cut areas need to be treated with crushed charcoal.

Fill a new pot for each division one third with the prepared soil mixture, then lower the rosette itself into it and fill the pot completely with soil. After all this, cover the pot with film.

Diseases and pests, control methods

With systematic care violations, streptocarpus can get sick. Excess moisture in the soil and hypothermia lead to the appearance of gray fungal rot and powdery mildew. To save the plant, you need to remove all affected areas and treat it with a fungicide (Fundazol, Fitosporin, Topsin). Transplant the bush into fresh substrate.

Streptocarpus pests:

• aphid;
• weevil;
• thrips;
• scale insect;
• spider mite;
• Sciriada fly.

It is necessary to take action immediately when parasites are detected. Isolate the plant to prevent other crops from becoming infected. Remove all affected parts of the bush.

It is necessary to treat with an insecticide:

• Aktellik;
• Akarin;
• Fitoverm;
• Aktara;
• Confidor.

To avoid re-infestation by pests, you need to establish a microclimate suitable for streptocarpus.

Streptocarpus is an ornamental plant that, with good care, will bloom for a long time. This is an ideal option for those gardeners who love violets, but cannot devote as much time to them as required. Streptocarpus is less whimsical and demanding. But in order for it to delight with its bright flowering, it needs to be provided with suitable conditions for development.

Video from which you can learn more useful information about caring for Streptocarpus and how to propagate the plant:

Reproduction methods

Plant propagation is carried out in the following ways:

• seeds;
• cuttings.

Propagation by cuttings begins by cutting a leaf 5–7 cm long. If the leaves are too large, it is recommended to cut off only a third or half of it. After this, the leaf must be cut crosswise into pieces no longer than 2 cm. On each piece, a base is made on one side, which resembles a stem: this makes it much more convenient to immerse the leaf in a glass of water for rooting.

Then the leaves need to be placed in small containers with water. Instead of water, many gardeners recommend pouring a substrate of vermiculite, sphagnum, perlite and peat into cups. The leaf should be immersed 1 cm into the substrate with its stem and pressed. After this, it is recommended to place the cups in a warm place and water them regularly until small leaves appear. When there are 2-3 of them, the leaves are planted in other containers.

Growing streptocarpus from seeds is a rather complicated process. This method of reproduction is called generative. Streptocarpus seeds should be sown on top of a moist substrate, which consists of vermiculite, crushed peat and perlite. To facilitate the process, you need to mix the seeds with fine dry sand in advance.

After streptocarpus seeds are planted, it is recommended to carefully sprinkle them with water from a spray bottle and cover the crops with polyethylene or glass to create a greenhouse effect. The container is placed in a warm and bright place with a temperature of 21–25 degrees

Shoots usually appear after 2 weeks. When condensation forms, the greenhouse should be ventilated, and when the seedlings grow a second leaf, they are dropped into a nutrient substrate consisting of 3 parts peat, 1 part leaf soil and crushed moss, as well as 1 part perlite and vermiculite. You can purchase an earthen mixture intended for Saintpaulias in the store.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=y4uagWdOgjw