Description of Cordyline shrub Kiwi, reproduction and care at home

Cordyline kiwi is a popular plant belonging to the Agave family. Outwardly, it looks like a miniature palm tree. Cordyline kiwi in its natural habitat grows in Northern Australia, but other varieties can be found in the countries of Southeast Asia, as well as on the Hawaiian Islands.

Plants differ from each other in overall size, shape, color, as well as the size of the leaf blades. Cordyline kiwi is a very easy-to-care plant, so it can be successfully grown indoors. We will talk about the features of care and maintenance in this article.

Popular varieties and types of cordyline

There are more than 15 varieties of cordyline that are grown at home. The most common of them are southern, apical, fructicose, and straight.

Cordyline apex

Cordyline terminalis or apical cordyline (popularly known as the “tree of luck”) is a perennial plant with a tuber-shaped rhizome and a woody stem. It is a subshrub with a thin trunk up to 1.5 cm in diameter or a small bush up to three meters high. Young bushes have foliage from the base; at home, they remain small in size for a long time. The trunk of the tree is smooth, with traces of fallen leaves.

The leaves, which reach a width of 12 cm and a length of 85 cm, have an elongated ovate and oblong shape. In the center they have a vein that is thicker than all the others. The leaves are located on a grooved root, which reaches 12-17 cm in length.

During flowering, apical cordyline produces panicle-shaped inflorescences 35 cm wide, which are planted on a small petiole. The flowers of the plant, depending on the variety, can be purple, reddish, or white. The bush is propagated by cuttings taken from the top of the plant.

Apical cordyline has different types, which differ in the color and shape of the leaves.

Kiwi is one of the most common varieties of apical cordyline, which is a lush shrub with oblong or oval leaves up to 85 cm long and up to 12 cm wide. The leaves have a crimson border and yellow stripes along the edges. From below they narrow into a grooved root, and at the base they increase slightly. The midrib on the upper side is much larger than the others and protrudes on the underside of the leaf.

Another type of indoor cordyline is Tango. This variety is perfect for a small apartment. This is a small bush with a lush rosette of bright brown leaves, which have a crimson edge along the edge, as well as white longitudinal veins.

Cordilina straight

Cordyline stricta or straight cordyline also has other names - Dracaena cognesta or Dracaena straight. This plant is a shrub up to 3 meters tall. It has highly branched trunks in the upper part and at the same time very thin. The leaves are linear or lanceolate, up to 65 cm in size, pointed at the ends, leathery. They have rough or jagged edges and are dark green in color. During flowering, inflorescences are formed - an erect panicle with small purple flowers, which form at the top of the shoot or in the axils of the leaves. The decorative appearance of this variety is Discolor.

South Cordyline

Cordylineaustralis or Australian cordyline in natural conditions is a large tree that grows up to 25 meters in height. The trunk at the top has a bunch of narrow and long sword-shaped leaves (1 m by 4-8 cm) of a dark green color, and is thickened at the bottom. The young shrub does not have pronounced trunks. The flowers are white in color, collected in panicle inflorescences, approximately 1 cm in diameter. The size of these panicles can reach up to one meter.

In their homeland, southern cordilines are used in industrial production. This is a source of fiber, which is extracted from leaves, roots, and trunk. A wide variety of products are made from this raw material - from fabrics and mats to brushes. And the leaves of young bushes can be eaten, for which James Cook called this palm “cabbage tree.”

Southern cordyline has healing properties, as its juice is an excellent antiseptic.

The plant began to be grown in greenhouses at the end of the 19th century, and it immediately gained popularity. Various cultivars were created.

Today, the most popular varieties are Atrosanguinea, Veitchii, RedStar, Atropurpurea, which were bred in the 19th century. Their foliage ranges in color from chocolate to purple.

Cordyline fruticosis

If the shrub is located in open ground, it quickly takes on the appearance of a palm tree. However, as a decorative indoor flower, when properly cared for, Cordyline fructicosa or Cordyline fruticosa grows very slowly, retaining its leaves to the very base. It doesn't bloom in a flowerpot. Cordyline fructicosa has a large number of garden forms: Red Edge, Tricolor, Lord Roberts, Snow, Augusta and other varieties that differ in different leaf colors.

Flowering and fruiting

Usually actinidia blooms for the first time five years after planting. But under ideal conditions this can happen earlier - in 3-4 years. The active flowering stage begins in May and lasts until June. The color of the flowers depends on the variety - varies from white to purple. During flowering, a light, pleasant aroma spreads, like a rose.

If you plan to get fruits, get two bushes - male and female. This will allow for cross-pollination. At the moment of flowering, become a “bee” and transfer pollen from one to another using a brush.

Female flowers can be distinguished by the presence of a pistil with a stigma located above the underdeveloped stamens. The male vine has only well-defined stamens. If there are more males than females, try grafting from a female bush to a male bush. It is advisable to do this in order to increase the number of fruits, because males do not produce them at all - they are needed solely for pollination. One male bush can pollinate 10-12 female ones.

If there are too many fruits, thin out the ovaries, otherwise the kiwis will grow small.

Diseases and pests

Although Cordyline is unpretentious, due to improper care it can be affected by various diseases.

1. When the trunk rots and leaves are damaged, the most common problem is overwatering and root rot. In this case, the cut top of the plant is rooted.
2. If the color of the leaves turns pale, the plant does not have enough sunlight.
3. The appearance of extensive light spots may indicate an excess of sunlight - the plant should be shaded.
4. Are the entire leaves turning yellow or are the tips drying out? The pet feels uncomfortable in a dry atmosphere.
5. Very slow growth indicates depleted soil. There are two ways out - a freelance transplant with a complete replacement of the substrate or the introduction of complex fertilizing.

Cordyline pests

Main parasites:

• spider mite;
• thrips;
• scale insect;
• aphid.

It is difficult to combat pests; it is better to prevent their appearance: maintain air humidity and temperature conditions.

If parasites appear, it is recommended to wash the cordyline foliage with a soapy solution, treat the bush with an insecticide and remove the top layer of soil.

Beautiful foliage, ease of care, variety of species - all this makes Cordyline a favorite of gardeners. It will decorate any room, be it a living room in a house or a reception area in an office.

Tips and tricks

Experienced gardeners give the following tips and recommendations for growing cordyline kiwi:

1. In summer, plants need to be watered abundantly, but only after the top layer of soil has dried.
2. Fertilize the bushes, otherwise they lose their decorative appearance.
3. If the room has dry air, you need to pour expanded clay or small stones into the pan and pour water into it.
4. After watering, loosen the soil for better aeration.
5. Keep the flower in a bright place without direct sunlight.
6. Wipe the leaf blades with a damp cloth, since the plant breathes through them.

Having studied the information about growing Cordyline Kiwi, the gardener will be able to grow a spectacular decorative flower on his windowsill that will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

3.Varieties:

3.1. Cordyline terminalis

An evergreen, herbaceous, tropical plant with large, oblong-lanceolate leaves, the shades of which are very diverse - from pale pink and green to brown or burgundy, depending on the species. In their natural habitat, adult plants reach a height of 3 m. The stems are erect, do not branch, and become bare in the lower part with age, but the plant does not lose its attractive appearance.

3.2. Cordyline Kiwi

A large, decorative deciduous, herbaceous, evergreen plant, which in nature reaches a height of 2 m. The stems are erect, not branched, and with age they often become bare in the lower part. The leaves are large, oblong-lanceolate, the color of the leaves includes several tones of green, yellow and bright pink. Sometimes in the warm season, small white or lilac, sometimes purple flowers form on the plants. The variety is believed to have special frost resistance.

3.3.Southern or Australian Cordyline – Cordyline australis

In nature, it is a large subtropical evergreen tree, reminiscent of a palm tree, reaching a height of 9 m. With age, the plant forms a thick trunk, which branches into several. The leaves are hard, straight, linear, pink, burgundy, dark green, glossy, forming a lush crown at the top of the stems. The lower part of the stems becomes bare over time. Mature plants in the summer months form large drooping, branched inflorescences consisting of small white or cream flowers with a pleasant sweetish aroma.

3.4. Cordyline fruticosa

A large evergreen plant, originating from East Asia, in its natural habitat reaches a height of 4.5 m. It has long, lanceolate leaves reaching 70 centimeters in length. The flowers are white or light lilac, appear in the summer months, have a charming aroma, are collected in inflorescences - branched panicles up to 30 cm long. The shades of the leaves vary depending on the variety and can be within the range of burgundy, red, green, white or yellow.

3.5. Cordylina straight - Cordylina stricta

Quite large evergreen ornamental deciduous plants with long, green, drooping leaves, which in adult plants are retained only at the tops of slender, erect, branched stems. The leaves are glossy, reach a length of 30–50 cm, and when they fall, they leave scars on the trunks. The stems are covered with smooth, light brown bark. In its natural habitat, the plant reaches a height of 5 m. When grown at home, it remains more compact and does not exceed 2–3 m. During the flowering period, which occurs in the summer months, the plants form small, up to 1 cm in diameter, lilac flowers collected into branched panicles from 20 to 40 cm long.

3.6. Cordyline undivided - Cordyline indivisa

The evergreen tree, reaching a height of 8 mu in its natural habitat, grows slowly. With age, it forms fairly thick, erect, unbranched stems, covered with light brown bark and bearing traces of fallen leaves. In adult plants, leaves are retained only in the upper part of the stems, forming lush crowns. The leaves are green, hard, straight, reaching a length of 90 - 180 cm. In the summer months, the plants throw out drooping panicles, consisting of many small, fragrant, greenish-white or brown flowers.

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general description

In the wild, Cordyline kiwi grows up to 2-3 meters, but when kept indoors it is compact in size. Typically, trees living in pots reach 1-1.5 m in height .

The main advantage is the spectacular narrow leaves crowning the ends of thin stems. As the plant grows, the lower leaves die off, and the plant becomes very similar to a palm tree. New shoots constantly appear on the sides of the main trunks, suitable for transplantation.

The leaves of the plant are hard, juicy, with rounded edges. The color of the leaves combines dark green, yellow and pink shades.

Diseases and pests

Cordyline is one of the plants that are resistant to various diseases and pests. Perhaps the most terrible disease for any plant is root rot. The florist, trying to cheer up the drooping flower, begins to water it abundantly, which ultimately leads to a sad end - the plant dies. A timely identified symptom will help you quickly deal with the problem.

Diseases and pests	Symptoms	Control measures	Prevention
Root rot	looks sluggish. The leaves gradually fade, become covered with brown spots and dry out. Growth stops.	If the disease is not advanced, you can try to save the plant. Remove the flower from the pot. Remove diseased leaves inspect the roots and trim the affected areas back to healthy tissue. Sprinkle wounds with sulfur or finely ground charcoal. Dry for a couple of hours. Replant into a new loose substrate.	Do not over-moisten the soil ball. Sterilize before planting priming. Staying in a cool room The plant needs to reduce the amount of watering.
Aphid	Having settled on the reverse side of the leaf, the colony of pests actively drinks the juices of the plant. This leads to discoloration, drying and leaf fall.	For spraying, use Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm or Inta-Vir. If the lesion is severe, the treatment should be repeated no earlier than a week later, changing the product. Use medications only after reading the instructions.	rinse off under a warm shower. You can wipe the leaves with a cloth, soaked in a weak solution of laundry soap. Read also:  Adiantum, or Venus hair: delicate fronds - a delight for exotic lovers Maintain normal humidity air.
Thrips	The activity of these pests results in the initial yellowing of the leaf, the appearance of spots and streaks on it, which gradually merge. Then the leaf blade withers and falls off.	Avoid dry air. Carry out regular inspections leaves. Will significantly reduce the number pest glue traps. Observe quarantine.
Shchitovka	The pest, hiding under its shell, feeds on cell sap. As a result, the leaves lighten, dry out and fall off. It is easy to detect by its tubercles and shiny sugary coating.	Treat the plant with a 0.15% Actellik solution (1 – 2 ml per 1 liter of water). Scale insects are a very insidious enemy, so after a week, carefully examine the leaves of the cordyline, and if you find new tubercles, spray again.	a damp cloth soaked in soapy water. With its help, insects can be easily removed from the leaf. Make sure the humidity level is air was normal, ventilate the room.
Spider mite	The mite entangles the leaves with a web, along which it moves from leaf to leaf. By making punctures, he sucks out the juice from the plant cells. The leaves become covered with whitish spots, which then merge. The plant weakens, the leaves curl and fall off.	Actellik - 2 ml per 1 liter of water. Spray the plant, preferably in the fresh air or with an open window.	avoid encounters with spider mites. If you find cobwebs, wash the plant. in the shower.

Common care mistakes

Beginning flower growers can make the following mistakes, leading to a decrease in decorative appearance, or the complete death of Cordyline Kiwi:

• place the plant in direct sunlight;
• In winter, water the flower often and a lot;
• do not feed the bush;
• do not inspect leaf blades to identify diseases and pests;
• plants are not replanted.

Having corrected the mistakes, Cordyline lovers will once again admire the decorative appearance of the flower.

Tips for caring for Cordyline

Caring for cordilines at home is not difficult, but it depends on the species. In nature, these plants are found in different climatic zones, and this determines the temperature regime of the content.

Lighting. In nature, cordilines most often grow in southern forests, so they need bright, diffused light; the plant is shaded from direct sunlight. In winter, a south window is best; in summer, an east or west window.

Temperature. In summer, the temperature for cordilines is within 20-25°C. In the fall, for subtropical cordyline species, the temperature is gradually lowered; in winter they are kept in cool conditions (from 5 to 10°C). Heat-loving species (Cordylineterminalis) are kept in the cold season at a temperature not lower than 18°C. Cordylines do not tolerate sudden changes in temperature, so they should be protected from drafts.

Air humidity. Tropical cordilines are more demanding on air humidity than subtropical ones. They should be regularly sprayed with soft, settled water in the summer. Subtropical species easily tolerate normal humidity in the apartment.

Watering. Water the cordilines regularly with soft, settled water. In spring and summer abundantly, in winter – moderately (the colder the colder, the less watered)

It is important not to allow the earthen clod to dry out or become waterlogged.

Fertilizer. Feed the plants in spring and summer once a week with complex fertilizer for deciduous plants. In winter, feed no more than once a month. In a cool room, you don’t need to fertilize at all - the plant hardly grows at this time.

Transfer. Young plants are replanted annually in the spring, adults - once every 2-3 years. Pieces of charcoal and brick chips are added to the pot.

The soil. The soil is suitable nutritious, slightly acidic (pH about 6), a mixture of 3 parts garden soil, 1 part peat and 1 part sand or 1 part leaf soil, 1 part humus, 1 part peat and 1 part sand is recommended.

Reproduction. Cordyline is propagated by seeds, cuttings, and dividing the rhizome.

They cannot be propagated by seed at home; various varietal forms must be propagated only vegetatively; varietal characteristics are not transmitted by seeds.

The easiest way to propagate using suckers is by dividing the rhizome. Usually this procedure is done in the spring. The rhizome sections are placed in a light substrate; after the roots have formed, they are planted in a regular soil mixture.

For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots are used, which are divided into parts with one to four nodes. Both apical and cuttings obtained from the middle part of the stem are suitable for propagation. They are rooted in a warm place, the temperature should be 25-30°C. Usually, within a month, roots form on the cuttings and the plant is ready to be planted in a permanent place.

Pests:

Possible problems when growing:

If there is too much sunlight, light, dry spots may appear on the leaves. If the indoor air is too dry, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown. Due to lack of moisture, brown spots may appear on cordyline leaves. Excess moisture from below can cause the stems to rot (such a plant must be cut off and a healthy top with leaves rooted). Too many lower leaves fall off, the plant becomes bare - too little light. If the temperature is too low, the leaves become soft and curl. Yellowing of leaves occurs when the air is dry or there is a lack of nutrients in the soil.

Features of cultivation

Cordyline kiwi does not require special attention, is unpretentious in care, and easily tolerates low air humidity. They will retain their color throughout the year.

How to choose the right healthy plant

To choose a healthy Cordyline kiwi, it is better to buy a young plant. The leaves should be dense, juicy, elongated, straight. If you come across a plant during the flowering period, it is better to choose it. Their color should be characteristically bright, this indicates the good health of the tree.

Soil preparation

As soil, you can use ready-made soil for palm trees, which is sold in specialized stores. You can also prepare it yourself. For this you will need:

• turf – 3 parts;
• sand – 1 part;
• peat – 1 part;
• moss - for improved drainage.

Planting process

For Cordyline kiwi, choose a pot made of ceramic or plastic so that all the roots of the plant fit into it and there is some space left. There should be holes at the bottom to drain excess water. A tray is purchased for the pot. Expanded clay, river sand or pebbles are placed at the bottom of the pot, then part of the soil mixture is poured. It is watered with slightly warm water. The plant is transferred to the ground, sprinkled with the remaining soil mixture and watered.

Reproduction

As already mentioned, this plant can be “propagated” either by division, cuttings, or seeds. At the same time, it is worth noting that the latter option is suitable only for species plants, since when seeds of varietal varieties are grown, they lose the characteristics of their “parents”. The ideal time for sowing is the first half of March.

As already mentioned, this plant can be “propagated” either by division, cuttings, or seeds

The correct soil plays an important role in the degree of germination. Ideally, it should be a mixture of 1 part turf soil and 1 part sand. Seeds are placed in the soil to a depth of 1 cm, no more. The pot is covered with film. And one more important point: do not wait for all the seeds to germinate at the same time.

The correct soil plays an important role in the degree of germination.

The first ones will appear within a month after planting, and the last ones only after three months, and this is a normal process. Young plants should be replanted into separate pots no earlier than the fourth true leaf appears.

Young plants should be replanted into separate pots no earlier than the fourth true leaf appears.

If you prefer to work with cuttings, then remember that the key to success is in the correct choice of planting material. So the cutting must have at least 1 node. By the way, not only the tops of the plant are suitable, but also parts of the leafless shoot. But the planting material should already be a little woody.

If you prefer to work with cuttings, then remember that the key to success is in the correct choice of planting material.

For rooting, the most suitable substrate will be peat soil, sand and humus soil, taken in equal proportions. It is better to place the container with planting material in a warm place (25 - 30 degrees is ideal) and regularly moisten it with a spray bottle. If everything goes well, within four weeks the cuttings will be ready for planting in separate pots. The soil mixture for planting is slightly different: humus, peat soil, sand and turf soil in equal proportions.

For rooting, the most suitable substrate will be peat soil, sand and humus soil, taken in equal proportions.

Another way to propagate this plant is by division. Perhaps the simplest option. It is recommended to cut off all the roots of the “fragment” separated from the main plant and place it in the mixture, which is used for rooting cuttings. And after the plant gives roots, transplant it into a soil mixture for planting adult specimens.

Another way to propagate this plant is by division.

Even if a shoot accidentally breaks off from the main plant, you can try to root it. But this is an exception to the rule. The broken part is cut evenly and placed in a jar of water, which is covered with dark film (or paper). If the light shines, the plant will not give roots. You can add a little special substance to the water to promote the formation of the root system.

Even if a shoot accidentally breaks off from the main plant, you can try to root it.

Planting rules and feeding

It is recommended to plant cordyline in a pot whose width and height are slightly larger than the root system of the plant. The roots grow quite quickly, so the soil in the container will not turn sour. It is best to take a pot whose diameter is 0.6-0.8 cm larger than the previous container. Experts recommend replanting a newly purchased small kiwi cordyline into a permanent pot only after 7-10 days, when the plant has time to partially get used to the new conditions. Despite the fact that the plant comes from the tropics and loves high humidity, you need to immediately take care of good drainage. Small expanded clay pebbles are suitable for this. Periodically, be sure to feed Cordyline with nutrients. For this purpose, any complex fertilizer for indoor plants will be suitable, which will simultaneously combine both mineral and organic components.

The flower should be fertilized throughout the year, since the plant does not have a period of complete dormancy. In this case, from mid-autumn to mid-spring, fertilizing should be done every month, and in the warm season, the plant should be fertilized once every two weeks. Root feeding will be sufficient. It is also very important for this plant to ensure constant access of oxygen to the root system. To do this, a day after the next watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil. For active growth of this indoor plant, good watering and light are necessary. Cordyline simply loves bright sunlight, but it is not advisable to constantly expose the plant to direct sunlight. If the window faces south, then you should shade the window with translucent curtains. But the best option would be to place the plant on a windowsill on the west or east side. In winter, you can move the cordyline to a south window.

Kiwi cultivation and care

Kiwi care includes watering and tree formation. With good care, the vine can bear fruit for about 40 years.

• Feeding. Kiwis need to be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers of 200 grams per plant when planting seedlings. In the future, fertilization should be carried out three times per season in parts. The first time was in the first half of March, before the kidneys began to awaken. The second time - after the onset of consistently warm temperatures and the third time - in September, after the final formation of the fruits. One plant should contain 0.5 kg of nitrogen-containing fertilizer, 135 g of phosphorus, 250 g of potassium and 75 g of magnesium fertilizer.
• Loosening and weeding. Since the roots of kiwi are in the upper layers of the soil, the bushes cannot be loosened or the soil treated with herbicides against weeds.
• Hydration. In dry, hot weather, the vines are sprayed and watering is increased. It is recommended to mulch the soil under the trunk. This will retain moisture. The top layer of soil should not be allowed to dry out. This may cause the flowers to fall off. Kiwi has a shallow root system. The bulk of kiwi roots are located in the upper layers of the soil within a radius of 1-1.5 from the central stem. It sinks to a depth of 40-50 cm. Therefore, in the summer, kiwi needs regular watering.
• Trimming. Pruning and shaping of trees is carried out in late autumn after the end of the fruiting period. In this case, the strongest healthy shoots are left, and all the rest are removed.
• Wintering. For the winter, no manipulations are required to prepare the vines for the cold. They tolerate frosts well down to -27 degrees. The stems are not damaged, do not get sick and do not freeze. Does not require additional pruning, covering or pressing.
• Tree formation. All work on the formation of kiwi should be carried out in the summer. They include pinching and cutting out shoots. It should be taken into account that kiwi stems are very juicy and pruning the shoots in the spring during the sap period may result in the shoots getting wet.
• Diseases. The plant is very resistant to diseases and insects. Therefore, there is no need for chemical or any other additional treatment of plants for the purposes of prevention or treatment.
• Harvesting and storage. The final formation of kiwi fruits ends in September-October. At this time, the fruits are collected and placed in a room with a temperature of 0 to 5 degrees Celsius. In this room, kiwi is stored until spring. Before use, the fruits should be placed in a warm room with a temperature of 25-30 degrees for a day or two.

In the second ten days of March - the first ten days of April, a constant above-zero temperature is established. During this period, active sap flow and buds begin to bloom. Young shoots are green-reddish in color and produce alternate leaves; older shoots are brownish-green in color and bear fruit.

The flowers are creamy yellow in color, with six petals and yellow-orange stamens at the center. Since this type of vine is dioecious, only male or only female flowers bloom on one plant. The flowering period lasts for a week. Flowering is abundant, a large number of flowers are formed on one shoot, each of which then produces an ovary to fruit.

Air temperature

If the tips of the Cordyline kiwi leaves dry out, then most likely the plant is in a room with the wrong air temperature. This culture prefers moderate heat. It is best to keep the flower in a room where the air temperature is from 18 to 23 degrees. This green pet does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature, as well as strong drafts.

In summer and late spring, it is recommended to take the pot out onto the loggia or balcony, but at night it must be brought indoors. The slightest frost will destroy the plant.

If the cordilina is placed on a windowsill, it must be protected from cold air during ventilation. If you open a window or window, it is best to remove the crop from the windowsill at this time.

Cordyline propagation methods

Cordyline reproduces in 4 ways, 3 of which - rooting apical or stem cuttings, root suckers and air layering - are not particularly difficult. Seed propagation is not very popular, but just for fun, you can try it.

Rooting cuttings

Typically this method is used for old plants that require rejuvenation.

1. An apical or lignified stem cutting 7–9 cm long is suitable. It must have 1 or several leaf nodes.
2. Rooting is carried out in wet sand or a mixture of peat and sand.
3. For the process to be successful, the container with the cuttings is covered with a bag to create a greenhouse microclimate inside.
4. Rooting temperature is not lower than 25°C.
5. Caring for cuttings is easy - the greenhouse is periodically ventilated and the soil mixture is moistened.
6. After a month, roots appear and the cuttings are ready to be transplanted into separate pots. The soil mixture is needed as for normal planting.

In addition, apical cuttings take root easily in water. The liquid will have to be changed several times during the entire process so that it does not turn green or mold.

Cordyline cuttings can be easily rooted in water

Rooting root suckers

This method is considered one of the easiest. It is combined with the transplantation process and carried out in the spring.

1. The cordyline is removed from the pot and the root shoots are separated using a sharp knife.
2. Each part is planted in a prepared pot filled with soil mixture for rooting cuttings.
3. After the children acquire their own root system and produce their first leaves, they are transplanted into a substrate for adult plants.

Air layering (roots)

If the lower part of the trunk of the cordyline is exposed and has lost its decorative appearance, then the top can be rooted using the following method.

1. At the border where the leaves end and the woody, bare trunk begins, select an area with internodes for root growth.
2. Using a sharp knife, several shallow oblique cuts 2–3 cm long are made in the selected area, going from top to bottom.
3. Slightly spreading the edges of the incisions, a root formation stimulator, for example, Kornevin, is applied to the exposed tissue using a brush.
4. To prevent the tissues from growing together, you need to insert a piece of a match into the incision.
5. Now you need to fix the film, rolled into a ring around the barrel, a few centimeters below the cuts.
6. The resulting space is filled with sphagnum moss and moistened.
7. After this, the upper part of the film is fixed over the cuts.
8. With periodic moistening, a root system is formed after 1.5 or 2 months.
9. Wait until it has developed sufficiently and cut the trunk at the roots.
10. Plant the plant in a separate pot.
11. If the cordyline does not have enough stability, you can attach a support nearby. When the root system has mastered most of the pot, the support can be removed.

Propagation by seeds

This method is used infrequently. It is generally customary to propagate only the original Cordyline species by seeds.

Cordyline fruits do not stay on the plant for long; birds peck them

1. In February or early March, fresh seeds are sown in a soil mixture of turf soil and sand. For better germination, they are soaked in Epin or Zircon.
2. Seed germination occurs unevenly. The first shoots may appear in a month, the last - in 3.
3. To maintain a constant temperature of 25 - 27°C, build a greenhouse; you can use bottom heating.
4. When the seedlings grow to 5 cm, they are transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm.
5. Further cultivation occurs at a temperature of 21 – 24°C.

Transfer

In the first years of life, Cordyline compacta grows very quickly and will have to be transplanted into a new pot every year. Then its growth slows down; you will need to replant it once every three or even four years. The time for transplantation is easy to determine.

As soon as the roots of the plant begin to appear above the surface of the soil, it is time to replant the palm tree. Use the transshipment method. Water the palm tree generously and place it in a well-lit place.

Cordyline kiwi can be propagated by cuttings or layering, which in an adult plant appears next to its trunk.

Description of the appearance and origin of Cordyline

The proud-sounding name cordilina, in fact, is translated from Greek very prosaically - knot. But the plant itself looks very elegant thanks to its lush, brightly colored leaves.

Cordyline can be found in nature in both hemispheres. But to be more precise, only in tropical and subtropical climate zones. Asia, Australia, New Zealand and Brazil - in these countries, cordyline grows in the form of spreading trees, reaching large heights - up to 15 m.

The tropical resident cordyline is found in both hemispheres

Cordyline is classified as a false palm and is often confused with dracaena. And although these 2 plants are very close to each other, there are differences.

1. Cordyline leaves have a petiole, which is absent in dracaena.
2. The structure of the roots also varies. The root system of Cordyline is covered with nodes and swellings (which is why the plant got its name), and is white when cut. Dracaena has straight roots, and the cut is yellow or orange.
3. And perhaps the main difference is the number of seeds. Cordyline fruit has from 4 to 20 seeds. Dracaena has only one thing.

Dracaena and Cordyline are close relatives

In indoor floriculture, cordyline is a bush-like plant that grows up to a meter in height. Of course, Cordyline is rather large in size, so it needs sufficient space. In a greenhouse, it can easily overcome the 1.5 meter bar.

The leaves of the plant differ in size and color. Depending on the type, the leaf blade can be narrow linear, broadly lanceolate or saber-shaped. The length varies from a few centimeters to a meter. The edge of the leaf can be completely smooth or have fine jagged edges. The main background of the sheet is green. And then nature begins to fantasize, applying stripes and strokes of yellow, red, pink and purple to the surface. White color looks very elegant.

The bright leaves of Cordyline are the main decoration of the plant, but their shape and color depend on the type and variety.

The plant blooms very interestingly. The inflorescences are large and dense panicles, the length of which can reach up to 1 m. Small flowers are painted creamy white, red or purple. In home floriculture, cordyline is grown as an ornamental foliage plant, because it practically does not bloom in the room.

In nature, cordyline blooms at the age of 8–11 years.

Cordyline is considered a rather unpretentious green pet. People who are just thinking about growing flowers may well purchase this plant in order to learn the basics of indoor floriculture with its help. Cordilina will easily forgive some mistakes and shortcomings that were made by accident, but quickly eliminated. But if you forget about the flower for a long time, it may die.

Growing cordyline is not difficult, the main thing is not to forget about it for a long time

Cordyline: home care, photos of species (fruticosis, kiwi)

Cordyline is an evergreen plant from the Asparagus family. Distribution areas: tropics and subtropics of Australia, Africa, Asia; one type of flower is found in Brazil.

The name of the plant comes from the Greek word kordyle, which translates as nodule, node.

Description of Cordyline

Cordyline is a tree or shrub with a thick and strong root system. The shape of the leaves depends on the variety and can be linear, lanceolate or xiphoid. Flowers are white, red or purple.

When grown indoors, it grows up to 1.5 meters. As it grows, the lower leaves die and fall off, resulting in the plant taking on the appearance of a false palm.

Types for growing at home

There are several types of cordyline that are suitable for breeding indoors:

View	Description
Cordyline apex	Tree-like, with a straight false trunk (sometimes branched) and a height of two meters. Axillary paniculate inflorescences. The flowers are small, white or red. The foliage covers the tree from the soil, so it remains compact for a long time.
Cordilina kiwi	Fluffy bush. The foliage is dark green with yellow stripes and a rich crimson edge.
Straight	A shrub with a thin trunk that can grow up to three meters. The foliage is large, green or purple.
Australian	The tallest variety of cordyline, in nature reaches 12 meters. Outwardly it resembles a palm tree. The foliage is xiphoid, up to 90 cm long. Inflorescences up to 1 meter, contain quite fragrant flowers.
Red	It has the form of a bush and in nature reaches 3 meters in height. The foliage color is dark green or deep red. The fruits are about 1 cm in diameter and have a bright red color.
Mix	This is not a variety, but a variety of species collected in one palette.
Fruticosis	Foliage color can be dark green, crimson or pink. The inflorescences are presented in the form of a loose panicle.
Banks	A shrub with a straight trunk, reaches a height of 3 meters. The length of the foliage is about 1.5 meters, dense tufts are formed. The outer side of the leaves is green, and the inner side is gray-green. The flowers are white.
Undivided	It has a thin and practically unbending stem. The foliage is belt-shaped, with a red vein in the center.
Tricolor	Tricolor foliage, a combination of green, pink and cream.
Purpul compact	A small shrub with lush purple-green leaves. The trunk is small but strong.
Chocolate Queen	The foliage is elongated and wide, chocolate and green in color.
Snow	Green foliage with streaks and stripes of white.

Home care

When caring for cordyline at home, you need to pay attention to the season of the year:

Season	Temperature	Lighting, placement	Humidity level
Spring Summer	The shrub, as a representative of the tropics, is heat-loving and has a negative attitude towards sudden temperature changes. In the spring-summer season, +22...+25°C are considered comfortable, with quality care up to +30°C. It is recommended to protect from exposure to wind and sun.	Cordilina prefers to be placed in well-lit places, but does not tolerate direct exposure to the sun. The amount of light is directly related to the color of the foliage; the brighter it is, the brighter the location for the cordyline pot is needed. It is recommended to place the bush on the east and west windows.	An average air humidity of 50-60% is required. In the warm season, it is recommended to spray the bushes with a spray bottle 1-2 times a week.
Autumn winter	During this period of the year, the comfortable temperature for growing cordyline is +10…+13°C. Some varieties even during this season prefer temperatures of +20°C.	The shrub is placed on the windowsill; additional lighting is not provided.	The required humidity level is 50-60%. It is recommended to place the container with shrubs away from heating appliances.

Planting and replanting: choosing soil and pot

Young Cordylina require annual replanting. When the bush turns 4 years old, the frequency drops to once every three years.

The pot for planting must have wide edges and be deep, since the shrub has a developed root system. The next important point is preparing high-quality soil.

To prepare the soil:

• slightly acidic soil, sand and peat are taken in a ratio of 3:1:1;
• everything is thoroughly mixed;
• a layer of drainage (small pebbles) is poured into the new pot, and prepared soil is placed on top.

If the roots of the plant have occupied the entire pot, then replanting will need to be done next spring.

Watering and fertilizing

In spring and summer, cordyline requires abundant watering; the soil should always be slightly moist. The main thing is not to overdo it and not allow water to stagnate. The approximate frequency of watering is three times a week. During the cold season, it is reduced to once a week.

Cordyline needs to be fed throughout the year. During the growing season, the frequency of fertilizers is three to four times a month. In the autumn-winter period, the amount of fertilizing is reduced to once a month.

The role of fertilizers is provided by fertilizers intended for decorative deciduous plants. It is worth giving preference to products in liquid form.

Cuttings

For propagation using cuttings, it is necessary to take planting material from the middle or top of the cordyline. If they are very long, then you can divide them into several parts, each with about 3-4 sheets.

Next you need to follow these step-by-step instructions:

• the pot is filled with soil suitable for growing cordyline;
• rooting is being carried out - for this the room temperature must be +28°C;
• over the course of a month, the cuttings are sprayed with a spray bottle, and the soil is carefully watered;
• after the specified period, the rooted plants are transplanted into a permanent pot.

Diseases, pests

Cordyline is one of the plants that is resistant to diseases and pests. The most terrible disease for it is considered to be root rot, but if you sterilize the soil before planting, this can be avoided.

Among the pests dangerous to cordyline are aphids, thrips, scale insects and spider mites. These insects are controlled using insecticides.

Kiwi reproduction

Kiwi can be propagated effectively in two ways: seeds and cuttings.

• Propagation by seeds. You should choose a healthy large fruit and allow it to ripen completely. After which the seeds are separated from the pulp and combined with sand. The resulting mixture is placed in a container with soil; there should be drainage at the bottom of the container. It is covered with glass or film on top. Crops need frequent, abundant moisture. The first shoots appear after three weeks. After the sprouts appear, the soil around them should be loosened regularly. To do this, you can use a toothpick or a wooden stick. As a top dressing, it is recommended to add complex mineral fertilizers to the water for irrigation. After the appearance of two true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots with a soil mixture of wooden deciduous soil and humus in equal parts. A ready-made mixture of humus and peat is also suitable. With proper care, a healthy sprout will grow, which needs to be fed regularly. The first flowering will begin after 6-7 years.
• Reproduction by cuttings. Cuttings are taken in the autumn after all unnecessary stems are cut off, which will prevent the plant from surviving the winter well. Cuttings are cut 25-30 cm long. They should have 4-5 healthy buds. Remove all leaves from the cutting and make an oblique cut at the end, which will be planted in the ground. Pour permit substrate into a high 10-12 cm pot and place the cutting in it. Bury it into the substrate 1-2 cm above the lower bud. Compact the substrate around the cutting and water it generously so that the substrate subsides and the cutting is well strengthened. Place the pot in a greenhouse or cover with film. This will create the necessary microclimate for the fastest rooting of cuttings. To create high humidity inside the film or greenhouse, spray the cuttings from a spray bottle with plain water at room temperature 2-3 times a day. Cuttings take root within two to three months. During this period, you need to regularly ventilate them by removing the film.

Watering rules

We continue to consider the features of growing cordyline kiwi. In the spring and summer, when it is hot outside and the plant is in the active growth stage, it needs regular and abundant watering. For this purpose, soft boiled, rain or settled tap water is used. When the air temperature drops, watering is slightly reduced.

The secret to successfully growing cordyline is the absence of stagnation of moisture in the soil without the earthen clod completely drying out.

Care Tips

Kiwi is a powerful plant that grows strongly. Keep this in mind when choosing a place for a pot with a vine. In winter, kiwi can shed its leaves; it should be placed in a bright room with a temperature of ten degrees, and watering should be reduced.

In spring, replant the plant and remove weak branches. It is better to water kiwi with settled warm water at a temperature slightly above room temperature.

As the kiwi roots grow, they need to be transplanted into larger containers. Plants under three years of age are replanted two to three times a year, three-year-old plants - once a year, and five-year-old plants - once every two to three years.

An indicator of the need to replant a plant is:

• Slow growth.
• Soil drying out despite regular watering.
• Germination of the root system through a drainage hole.

Try to do the transplant quickly so that the roots do not have time to dry out. The soil is replaced partially or completely. The new container should be higher and wider than the previous one by about 2 centimeters.

Don't forget to put a layer of expanded clay on the bottom for drainage. As a potassium and phosphorus fertilizer, you can add 2 grams of wood ash and 16 grams of crushed eggshells to the soil. With good care, kiwi can bear fruit for more than 40 years.

More information can be found in the video.

Pruning Recommendations

The kiwi liana is characterized by its growth rate, so pruning is a mandatory procedure for it. Such plants look much more aesthetically pleasing and neater, and bear fruit more abundantly. If the growth of the vine is not limited in any way, it can stretch up to 7–10 m in length. It is absolutely impossible to keep such a plant in an apartment.

For seedlings that have grown to a height of 25–30 cm, pinch the top, removing the last 2–3 buds. This stimulates the plant to branch more intensively. But an excess of green mass is also harmful to the plant - all its strength goes into feeding it, so the fruits do not set at all or fall off long before ripening.

An adult kiwi plant at home should consist of 5–7 shoots, starting at a distance of approximately 45–50 cm from the base of the stem. They constantly form dense growth, which will have to be shortened throughout the growing season. It is not advisable to preserve it, since only the lower 5–6 “eyes” of each annual shoot bear fruit.

There is no point in leaving very long shoots on a kiwi vine: only the lower 5–6 buds bear fruit

Old branches are gradually removed, replacing them with replacement shoots. Typically, kiwi needs rejuvenating pruning every 5–6 years. If carried out correctly, the productive life of the vine extends to 40–50 years.

Pruning is especially important when there are several plants located next to each other. If it is not carried out, one of them may simply “strangle” the neighbors. Also, removing excess foliage and weak shoots improves air exchange in the crown, minimizing the risk of the spread of diseases and pest attacks.

A different method of formation is more often used when growing vines outdoors, but such plants also look nice at home.

1. An annual seedling is shortened to a height of 30 cm.
2. After another year, all formed side shoots, except two (the so-called shoulders), are cut off to the growth point.
3. When they reach a length of 1 m, their tops are pinched. From all the growth formed on the “shoulders”, 3–4 lateral branches are left, located at approximately equal distances from each other. They are shortened by cutting off after the fifth or sixth bud.
4. During the active growing season, all growth on these branches and new side shoots on the “shoulders” are immediately removed.
5. After harvesting, the fruiting shoots are pinched so that 6–7 new leaves remain above the last berry. Branches on which there were no fruits are shortened to the fifth leaf bud.
6. At the age of three years, branches are pruned to the point of growth. Soon a new shoot will begin to form from it, which is pinched after five leaves have formed on it.

Secateurs, like any other tool used for pruning kiwi, must be sharpened and disinfected

A very neglected or old kiwi vine can be rejuvenated by radical pruning in the spring. Unlike most indoor plants, kiwi responds normally to the loss of a significant part of the green mass, quickly recovering and starting to grow after such “stress”.

Popular types of cordyline

Shrub Cordyline Cordyline fruticosa aka Cordyline apex Cordyline terminalis photo

The most popular species in home cultivation. Widely lanceolate leaves reach 10 cm (in the widest part), have a pointed apex, attached to the trunk with a petiole 15 cm long. The color of the leaves is green, varietal cordylines have a border from light pink to dark burgundy. The plant is single-stemmed, but often the trunk divides spontaneously.

Lighting

Cordyline kiwi loves bright light, so place it on a windowsill on the south or southeast side of the room. With insufficient lighting, the variegation of leaves loses its contrast. The leaves become faded and lethargic, turning yellow. At the same time, the palm trunk will begin to grow quickly without increasing in diameter.

However, in the summer, under the influence of the burning rays of the sun, burns occur on the leaves of Cordyline. They appear as brown spots, causing the plant to lose its attractiveness. At this time, shade the palm tree or move it to another place where the midday sun does not reach. In winter and late autumn, additionally illuminate the plant with a lamp.

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