Diseases and pests of gloxinia with photos and control methods


Causes of spoiling buds in Gloxanias

Gloxinia is a beautiful indoor plant that pleases the eye with its decorative greenery and bright, exquisitely shaped flowers.
The homeland of this exotic beauty is Brazil. But today it has successfully undergone acclimatization and is perfectly grown by gardeners at home. However, it should be noted that gloxinia is a rather demanding plant. It needs proper care and daily attention from the grower, and then the exquisite flower will delight you with its shapes and colors.

When starting to grow gloxinia, everyone, both experienced and just beginning gardeners, should have a clear idea of ​​what kind of care the flower needs, as well as what problems it may encounter and how to prevent them.

The pretentiousness of the plant requires strict adherence to all the rules of growing at home; any violation can lead to the flower starting to hurt, its leaves turning yellow and withering, and the buds drying out, turning black, and rotting without any bright colors.

Light-loving gloxinia, with a sufficient amount of bright light, has a juicy green leaf color and a well-formed rosette. If there is too much sun and its rays are burning, then the plant will begin to fade, the leaves will lose their juiciness and droop, the unopened buds will begin to dry out and their number will noticeably decrease. Also, the health and appearance of the flower directly depends on proper watering, timely feeding, temperature conditions and other factors. Let's look at them in more detail.

What it is?

A small stocky bush with velvety elongated leaves blooms with amazingly beautiful flowers. The color is one-color or two-color, with a wide edging along the edge of the petal, or a contrasting openwork pattern. The flowers come in a wide variety of shades from white to almost black . The shape of the indoor flower resembles a bell pointing upward, with the edge of the petal folded back. According to the structure of the rhizome, gloxinia belongs to the tuberous plants.

Gloxinia, or in other words Sinningia, is American by origin. In our country it grows only at home or in greenhouses. Belongs to the Gerseniaceae family.

Why do the buds dry out?

One of the reasons why buds dry out is lighting. Too much light is bad, too little is also a disaster. Therefore, when choosing a place for a pot with gloxinia, it is necessary to take this feature into account and position the plant so that the lighting level is optimal. Then the flowering will be abundant and bright.

Also among the reasons that can lead to gloxinia buds drying up without blooming are:

  • excessive soil and air moisture;
  • cold;
  • high temperature in the room;
  • stale air;
  • drafts;
  • excessive or insufficient feeding;
  • dry air.

As you can see, there are a large number of factors on which the duration and abundance of flowering depends. And when a problem is identified, it is worth considering all of them in order to provide timely assistance to the flower and not lose it.

Watering the plant is the next point that needs to be paid attention to. If it is carried out incorrectly, the buds do not open, the leaves die, and the root system suffers.

Proper watering is important for gloxinia. Water must flow to the roots through the soil, so it is carefully poured over the edge of the pot so as not to flood the rosette. Excess water is removed from the pan so that the roots do not begin to rot. During cold weather, watering can be reduced to spraying, but it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil and prevent it from drying out, understanding that for normal growth the plant needs moderate moisture. For watering and spraying, only settled water at room temperature is used.

Gloxinia requires special attention during the heating season. At this time, the air in the room is quite dry; under such conditions, the buds rarely open. It is recommended to periodically spray the flower, however, in this matter one should adhere to the “golden mean”. Excessiveness harms the plant.

These are the main points of care, the violation of which can disrupt the proper growth and flowering of gloxinia. But besides them, you should understand that if the temperature is too low and in drafts, gloxinia buds also wither and fall off.

Now about feeding. The lack of nutrients in the soil does not allow the plant to gain strength and fully realize itself: to form flower stalks and bloom. If the buds turn black and then begin to dry out, then this is a sure sign that the soil has a low amount of microelements. This means that the indoor flower needs feeding. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are best suited for these purposes.

Peduncles also dry out when gloxinia is damaged by pests of indoor plants such as:

  • spider mite;
  • thrips.

If they are detected, the flower should be immediately treated with insecticides.

It's never boring with her

In winter, many not very experienced flower growers despair because the flower is sick.
However, gloxinias “hibernate” already in the fall, only to wake up again in the spring and please the mistress of the house with their delicate velvet bells. As soon as this plant has finished blooming, carefully remove the dead shoots, leaving only a “stump”, and send the pot to rest, only occasionally spraying the soil so that the tuber does not dry out. It is probably difficult to find a gardener who would not like gloxinias. But, alas, not everyone manages to propagate them using leaves. Why? The problem is that gloxinia leaves do not always take root quickly.

REPRODUCTION

If you are an inexperienced gardener, it is better to propagate this flower using seeds, experts from the Central Botanical Garden recommend. Prepare drainage in pots or bowls. Close the hole for water drainage in the container with a shard and fill the pot to a third of the height with a layer of pebbles. For sowing, sifted light soil, ideally leafy, is usually used, to which a third of washed sand is added.

The prepared soil mixture is soaked well before sowing. Large seeds are not too densely distributed on the surface in grooves. Then they are covered with a thin layer of earth. Small seeds are not buried, but, scattered evenly over the surface of the ground, are watered with water from a spray bottle. Seeds are sown in early February. The bowls are covered with glass and placed in a warm place. Occasionally, the glass is removed for ventilation. When shoots appear, the bowls or pots are placed on the window, removing the glass. Plants are accustomed to the sun gradually, over 2-3 days.

At the end of winter, be sure to replant the sprouted tuber in fresh soil - the layer of soil above the tuber should not exceed 1 cm. To ensure that the plant is developed and blooms profusely, leave 1-2 of the most powerful shoots from the many sprouted shoots.

In order for gloxinias to delight with their magnificent flowering, provide them with good lighting. Plants really need this. They are most comfortable on the southeast, south or southwest side. Buy healthy planting material or a healthy adult plant, a suitable soil mixture. Provide dry wintering for gloxinias. Remember: these flowers cannot be sprayed with water, like all plants with pubescent leaves.

WATERING

When gloxinia grows, it is best to water the flower like this: place the pot in an empty container and carefully, trying not to get it on the leaves, water the plant from above so that the water passes through the pot and rises in the container to 1/2 the height. Take a five-minute break, and then take out the pot of gloxinia and place it on a tray to drain. Be sure to remove excess water from the pan after watering. Carry out the next watering when the top layer of soil dries.

Keep in mind that if there is excess moisture, the roots of gloxinia rot and the leaves turn yellow, so do not flood the flower with water, but remove dust from the leaves with a soft brush.

LIGHTING

To prolong flowering in the fall, gloxinia should be illuminated with fluorescent or special lamps. The optimal length of daylight for this flower is 12-14 hours. Or you can resort to this method: after the flower reaches four years of age, it begins to bloom from May to September, during this period it is necessary to cut off those pedicels that have already faded.

FEEDING

From April to August, gloxinia needs to be fertilized with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants - they should be carried out once a week. Experienced gardeners recommend using only half the dose indicated on the package.

If you have purchased flower tubers, it is recommended to plant them at the end of December in seedling boxes. When shoots appear, the tubers are moved into pots, this will help the plants bloom faster.

DISEASES AND PESTS

Gloxinia, like other flowers, is unfortunately susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. Preventing the development of diseases is very important, because the plant can be affected by late blight, tuber rot, powdery mildew, etc. If gloxinia is unwell, the drug “Fundazol” will be your salvation.

Ticks can also infect gloxinia. This is indicated by twisted and diseased leaves and disappearing flowers. In this case, the shoots become brown and their growth slows down. The plant must be treated with the drug three times within two weeks. “Fitoverm” or another product will help rid gloxinia of ticks and prevent the appearance of thrips and other pests.

If brown spots appear on the leaves, this means that too cold water was used for watering.

Yellowed leaves indicate that the plant has been in the sun for a long time, has been overfed with fertilizers, and its health has been adversely affected by poor air humidity.

If your houseplants are not doing well, watch the leaves. Green pets survive the winter especially painfully. How to understand the language of flowers?

  • If the leaves have stopped shining, there may be three reasons for this problem: too much light, spider mites or. You haven’t washed your plants for a long time.
  • Are there any dots or spots? If they are dry, this is a signal of a lack of water. Wet? This means they overdid it with watering.
  • If the affected areas look like a blister, the cause is a plant disease.
  • Brown leaf tips or edges indicate dry air or leaf damage.
  • A yellowish or brown edge of the leaf means waterlogging of the soil or a total lack of water, a violation of the temperature regime, you have managed to overfeed the plant with minerals.
  • Curling and falling of leaves indicates that the plants simply do not have enough heat, that the soil is waterlogged or the flower is in a draft.
  • If the leaves turn yellow and fall off, sometimes this is a natural process; perhaps the soil is waterlogged or the flower “caught a cold” in a draft, because plants, like people, do not tolerate temperature changes well.

HAVE A QUESTION

I grew them in the fall from gloxinia seeds; some of them went into the winter to rest, while the rest grew very long. Is it possible to prune them or is it better to pinch them if they haven’t bloomed yet?

It is undesirable for gloxinias to grow long shoots - for this, starting in January, you need to regularly check the pots of the plant. Place those with shoots in a bright place so that the young shoots are stocky. The long stems of gloxinia that have grown can be left as they are, and unique ampelous gloxinia will grow from them. An alternative is to cut and root stem cuttings from long shoots, so you will get new young gloxinias that can be grown in the first year without a dormant period. Moderately long stems can also be pinched.

Why do buds rot and not bloom?

If gloxinias are not properly cared for, their buds not only dry out, but also rot. And this happens for several reasons. The first thing you should pay attention to is the condition of the soil. If the soil in the pot is too wet and practically does not dry out, then this may well lead to the formation of rot not only on the tubers, but also on the surface of the flower. If this is the reason, then reducing watering helps restore the plant's condition.

Also, the buds rot if the soil in the pot is too acidic and contains a lot of nitrogen. In this case, it is recommended to replant the flower. And for feeding, use special fertilizers that contain potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and other elements. If such a problem arises, the rotting bud is torn off and the plant is treated with a fungicide. For these purposes, use “Fitosporin”, “Maximom” or other drugs of this group. Dosage and frequency according to the instructions for use.

Gloxinia inflorescences also rot when they are too cold. Low temperatures can cause enormous damage to the plant.

In any case, if rot appears, then it is necessary to establish the cause and eliminate it. Then remove all parts of the flower that are rotting, and only then treat the plant with anti-rot preparations.

Thrips

Thrips are the most popular type of pest that attacks gloxinia. These insects feed on the sap of the plant, which leads to its death. The main signs of thrips are light dots, streaks and spots on gloxinia leaves. If you notice such symptoms, immediately isolate the pot with gloxinia from other indoor plants and treat it with one of the insecticidal preparations. For these purposes, you can use Intavir, Aktara, Actellik, Fitoverm or Karate.

Proper care of gloxinia and keeping this plant in optimal conditions will help you avoid the appearance of any diseases and pests.

Next you can see photos of diseases and pests of Gloxinia:

Flower maintenance conditions

As we found out above, the main reason why inflorescences die (rot, dry out) is violations in the care of the plant, which then entail the occurrence of a number of diseases and the appearance of pests. Therefore, in this section we will briefly consider the main points of growing gloxinia.

Location. The flower pot must be placed on the windowsills on the east and west sides. During short daylight hours, he is provided with additional lighting.

The optimal temperature for growing the plant is 18-20 degrees. Often in apartments it is a little higher, so the window sill is a good place for flowerpots.

Watering is carried out along the edge of the pot so that water does not get on the flower or through the tray (the pot is placed in water for 15-20 minutes, then the liquid is removed). Water once a week, spray once every three days with warm, soft water.

It is important to properly send the plant to rest. When the flower fades, they stop watering it, and the entire surface part dies. It must be placed in a dry and dark place where the air temperature should be between 10-18 degrees. Tubers can be stored in winter either in pots or placed in river sand. They need to be protected both from drying out and from excess moisture.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that young annual plants are not sent to rest. They spend the winter on the windowsill.

In February, adult tubers are planted in specially prepared soil and placed in a warm and bright place. The pot should be wide, but the depth should be average. The drainage layer is laid down, and then the soil. You can buy it in a store or prepare it yourself. Considering any gloxinia to loose and pH-neutral soil.

These are the key points that novice gardeners should know so that the capricious and demanding plant pleases the eye.

Preventive measures

In order for gloxinia to bloom safely, it is necessary to systematically prevent possible problems:

  • Monitor soil moisture, avoiding excessive moisture and drying out.
  • Use good drainage.
  • Use warm water for irrigation.
  • Avoid getting water on leaves, buds and flowers. Do not spray the plant.
  • It is better to water gloxinia through a tray.
  • Sometimes spray the air around the plant.
  • Replant gloxinia every spring to prevent soil depletion.
  • Use hydrogel to prevent the substrate from drying out.
  • Use complex fertilizers.
  • Provide sufficient lighting without direct sunlight.
  • Keep gloxinia in a warm room, away from drafts.
  • Inspect the plant regularly.
  • Systematically use Epin or Zircon to maintain the immunity of gloxinia.

Why do gloxinia buds dry out without blooming and fall off?

Most often, the problem why gloxinia buds dry out without blooming lies in improper care. After all, if they appeared, it means that an obstacle to their further development appeared later. For example, there is a lack of nutrients, so be sure to feed the flowers in the summer. Buds usually appear at the end of March, and if in winter gloxinia was forgotten somewhere in the shade, a beautiful head of flowers is out of the question. During hibernation, it should not be left without regular watering and sunlight, as it must gain strength.

You can reanimate flowering using the following scheme of actions:

  1. Increase the humidity in the room (for example, turn on a humidifier).
  2. Ventilate the room, avoiding drafts.
  3. Place the flower on the eastern windowsill.
  4. Fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
  5. The soil after watering should be loose and slightly moist.
  6. Plant in another pot.

The appearance of a gloxinia bud

Dry soil, pests, stale air in the room and low humidity may also be causes. Among fertilizers, preference should be given to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers without nitrogen. It is the gradual correction of these factors that is the answer to gardeners’ worries about what to do if gloxinia’s buds dry out.

Gloxinia - leaf diseases, causes, description, photos, treatment

Gloxinia is popular in indoor culture due to its abundant flowering. The birthplace of the flower is considered to be Central and South America. Despite its artificial origin, decorative gloxinia requires the same growing conditions as wild varieties. The main indicator of improper care are gloxinia leaves. They turn yellow, dry and wither, become covered with spots, and a white coating appears on the leaves of gloxinia. How to deal with gloxinia diseases. Treatment from specialists with a description of the signs of disease and detailed photos.

Why do the buds turn gray and become soft?

If the flowering is abundant, there may not be enough nutrients to open the buds. It is important to remember that gloxinia itself will not bloom magnificently; it needs feeding. Pests such as spider mites or thrips may also be involved in softening the buds. To remove them, you need to wash the plant with soapy water, removing the damaged areas. Low humidity and unstable lighting are unacceptable.

Note! If the flower is in a country house or in an unheated house, it cannot be left there until frost.

It is recommended to revive the plant in the following ways:

  • daylight hours for gloxinia should be at least 12 hours;
  • as soon as the buds appear, a mineral complex of fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium is needed;
  • if watering occurs through a tray, it is better to use two copies. Put gravel in one, expanded clay in the other;
  • if gloxinia foliage stretches upward, it does not have enough sunlight;
  • If it is impossible to move the flower from a place with an excess of light, you can cover it with gauze or tulle.

To prevent gloxinia from drying out, you can place a container of water next to it. If the plant has little foliage, you need to increase fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. This will not contribute to the blooming of gloxinia, but may be useful for the growth of green mass.

Structure and features


Gloxinia begins to bloom in March. Flowering lasts up to three months. The flowers of the plant are single, emerging from the axils, large, oblong, velvety. The shape resembles a bell. The peduncles are soft, so large, tall bells may droop. The diameter of the flowers is 8-12 centimeters. The buds have 4 stamens. The nectary is ring-shaped or absent. The corolla is tubular, consists of round petals with a corrugated edge, arranged in one or several rows.

The corolla can be plain: white, purple, red, crimson or cream. It can be two-color, have a border, contrasting specks or spots. The base and edges of the petals most often have different colors . Some varieties of gloxinia, instead of an open corolla, have an elongated tube and small bent petals. From 8 to 40 buds can form on one plant.

Why do buds turn black and rot?

High nitrogen content in the soil and excess moisture are the main answers to the question of why gloxinia buds turn black. If you water a flower too often, rot will appear on the tubers and then spread to the above-ground part. Therefore, fertilizers for flowering house plants should always have a low nitrogen content.

Healthy gloxinia buds

It is also easy to explain why gloxinia withers even with the correct use of fertilizers. The answer is simple - it reacts poorly to cold weather and drafts, it is necessary to protect it from temperature changes. Its indicators should not fall below 18-20 °C on the windowsill and below 12 °C in winter if the tubers are stored in a dark place.

If the buds turn black before they bloom, you need to act quickly:

  1. Treat the tuber with epin. It has an anti-stress effect for plants.
  2. Make the air more humid; gloxinia should not dry out.
  3. Keep the plant away from direct sunlight during the day.
  4. If the soil is old, replace it with new soil.
  5. Adjust watering, do not water until the top layer of soil begins to dry out.

Important! Young plants overwinter in pots in their usual place; they do not need to be specially prepared for winter.

You can spray indoor gloxinia with regular warm water, but not more than 2 times a week. In this case, moisture should not get on the buds. Excessive use of the procedure will lead to rotting of the leaves and buds.

There are several ways to solve the problem of rotting before blooming:

  • limit watering until the top layer of soil is completely dry;
  • Water only through the tray, do not spray. Change the water in the pan;
  • if the soil is too acidic (due to nitrogen), replant gloxinia with a complete replacement of the soil;
  • if these measures do not help, remove and inspect the tuber: cut off the brown spots, coat the cut with activated carbon powder.

Gloxinia tuber needs proper wintering

If rot is found on tubers or foliage, you need to carefully remove the damaged areas and fertilize the plant with suitable products. There is no need to wait for the blackened bud to dry out on its own; you need to trim it yourself.

Diseases and pests

Gray rot. The most common disease in gloxinia. Most often it occurs due to improper placement of the flower; too much light falls on the leaves of the plant. As a result, the foliage of the flower becomes covered with brown spots, which spread over the entire leaf blade. If diseased leaves are not removed promptly, the entire plant may die.

Know! If signs of gray rot become noticeable on gloxinia, then it must immediately be placed in a darker place.

Root rot. No less often than gray rot, root rot occurs in gloxinia. Basically, this disease occurs when watering too often with cold water. The roots of the plant rot, the stem turns brown, and the leaves die. To prevent this disease, treat the plant with a fungicide.

Of the insects, gloxinia are most often damaged by mites. Small insects cause irreparable damage to the flower. The edges of the leaves curl and deform, the stem thickens, and the buds fall off before they have time to open.

It is easy to recognize the insect - on the underside of the leaf you will notice a gray coating, more like dust. To prevent ticks, the best remedy is good conditions for keeping the flower and regular ventilation of the room. Also, to prevent the mite from destroying the plant, gloxinia should be sprayed.

Thrips are another pest of gloxinia, which lays larvae on the inside of the leaves of the flower. Having matured, the larvae move into the ground and then destroy the flower, feeding on the juice from its roots, then move onto the leaves and stems. An infected plant can be identified immediately - light dots and spots form on the leaves, and dark spots form on the inside of the leaf. The edges of the sheet curl and fold.

The buds change their shape and never have time to open. If the insect is not noticed in time, gloxinia may die in a short time. The best remedy for this insect is to transplant the plant into a new substrate, as well as treat the plant with chemicals.

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Why do gloxinia have empty buds?

The main advantage of gloxinia is its charming flowering, which begins in June and lasts until August. That is why the plant is bought during this period to appreciate its beauty. The more beautiful the flower, the more disappointed the grower will be if the buds turn out to be empty. If it was blooming when you bought it, and then such a problem occurs, the reason why the gloxinia buds do not bloom lies in improper care.

Repeated flowering of gloxinia is not so lush

You can solve the problem as follows:

  1. Trim the stalk of an empty bud, otherwise a new one will not appear.
  2. Fertilize the plant according to plan, wait for the appearance of a new bud.
  3. After opening a new flower, spray gloxinia with epin according to the instructions.

The plant should be pruned only after it has finished flowering. Also, barren flowers can be a result of too dry air or pest attack. They suck the juices from the leaves and buds, thereby preventing them from opening.

Important! Do not expose gloxinia to drafts or water it with cold water. It is better to put it in bottles and let it sit for several days; this action will help release harmful substances.

Downy mildew

Downy mildew, or peronosporosis, is a fungal disease . The development of this disease is facilitated by sharp temperature changes. Infection can also occur when watering or spraying the plant with rainwater. Downy mildew appears in the form of shapeless spots appearing on the leaves. These spots can be either pale yellow, yellow-brown, red-brown or purple, or colorless. Sometimes the spots are surrounded by a faint border. Over time they turn brown and dry out. On the inside of the leaves, islands of light powdery coating develop in parallel.

If such signs are detected, it is necessary to remove all damaged leaves from gloxinia, and then treat the plant with one of such preparations as “Abiga-pik”, “Bravo”, “Optimo”, “Previkur”, or other similar preparations.

How to make gloxinia bloom again

After gloxinia fades, its above-ground part dies off, leaving only the tuber. It is important to properly prepare the plant for winter; two options are acceptable:

  • place the dry tuber (previously cleaned of rot) in a pot with soil or river sand. Place in a cool place and moisturize twice a month. Avoid hypothermia;
  • put the tuber in a bag with soil and vermiculite in equal proportions, store in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

In February, it is necessary to transplant the tuber into a larger pot. If in April a problem arises as to why the gloxinia buds did not open, the wintering was carried out incorrectly.

After the plant has blossomed and flowered at the end of June, you can prepare it for the reappearance of the flower stalk. To do this you need to follow a simple procedure:

  1. Trim the foliage, leaving 2-4 lower large leaves.
  2. Leave a couple of the largest stepsons in the axils of the leaves.
  3. Feed twice during the period of appearance of stepsons, then fertilize once a month with products for flowering plants.

To help flower growers: gloxinia diseases

Many indoor plant lovers are familiar with a flower called gloxinia. We will look at gloxinia diseases with photos today. This tuberous plant has a short stem and velvety leaves. The funnel-shaped flowers have beautiful colors.

Gloxinia happens:

  • standard with a height of up to 25 cm;
  • compact with a height from 12.5 to 25.3 cm;
  • miniature, having a height of 5 to 12 cm;
  • microminiature up to 5 cm high.

The cause of its diseases can be fungi and pests. It is quite difficult to grow a flower that is predominantly blue-violet and red-pink in color.

Fungal diseases of gloxinia

Why doesn't gloxinia bloom? This question plagues many gardeners. Gloxinias often become ill with various fungal diseases, in which the natural color of the leaves disappears and parts of the plant turn black. If the buds of a plant begin to rot, you can find several reasons for this problem:

  • excessive watering;
  • acidic soil;
  • excess nitrogen.

When watering abundantly, it is enough to adjust it so that the soil is not excessively wet. If the soil is acidic, you need to replant the plant with a complete replacement of the soil. Excessive nitrogen levels may occur after the application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

It is better to feed with complex fertilizers for gloxinia. They necessarily contain nitrogen and potassium. In addition to these elements, complex fertilizers contain phosphorus and many other chemicals.

If a wisteria tuber rots, you need to spray the plants with fungicide 2-3 times.

Why isn't gloxinia blooming yet? Among diseases of fungal origin, anthracnose deserves special mention. Its symptoms are brown spots on the leaves. They gradually move onto the shoots and onto the trunk of the plant.

Ultimately this leads to their rotting and destruction. Anthracnose in gloxinia must be treated without fail. This disease can attack plants with mechanical damage.

Increased air humidity and soil acidity, a lack of phosphorus and potassium can also provoke the disease.

To prevent pathology, complex care is required: you need to spray the plant with copper oxychloride, cuproxate or oxychrome and feed it with fertilizers. Otherwise, with the help of working equipment and with the help of various pests, the disease will spread to neighboring plants.

Sick specimens should not be placed outside during rain. All work equipment should be disinfected after use. If the infection of the plant is very severe, then it is better to destroy the flower by burning it. The initial stage of this disease is eliminated.

Treatment is as follows:

  • you just need to remove the diseased parts of flowers with brown spots (leaves, stems, buds);
  • spray the plant with fungicide 2-3 times with an interval of 2-3 weeks.

Another disease is ascochytaosis. Its signs are the appearance of red spots with brown rims on the leaves of the plant. The spots may also have a brown color. This can happen when air humidity increases. For treatment you need:

  • completely remove all leaves affected by spots;
  • to prevent the spread of infection, it is better to burn them;
  • treat the diseased plant with Bordeaux mixture;
  • After 7-10 days, repeat the treatment.

Instead of Bordeaux mixture, you can use copper sulfate, fungicides such as Abiga-Pik or Vectra.

Phyllosticosis is a fairly common disease. Dark round spots appear on the leaves. Their middle is brown. The leaf grows and breaks appear where spots appear.

When these signs appear, you should immediately spray the diseased plant. Treatment of gloxinia consists of treating them with preparations containing copper.

This may be Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or copper oxychloride.

A few more fungal diseases

Diseases of a fungal nature include septoria. It can be carried by raindrops and wind. Optimal conditions for the appearance of this disease:

  • being in a room with a temperature of 20-25° with a humidity of 98%;
  • moistening the leaves for a long time (up to 48 hours);
  • low light level.

Gray-brown spots appear on the leaves of the diseased plant. Outwardly, they resemble rust. The leaves then begin to fall. The stems dry out and gradually die off. The buds may also be damaged. It is recommended to treat the plant with fungicides such as Benomyl and other or any copper-containing preparations. Treatment should be repeated after 7-10 days.

Late blight is a disease caused by fungi. It can spread through soil and equipment, through planting materials and rainwater. The pathogens can live in soil for up to 8 years. Late blight occurs under the following circumstances:

  • over-compacted soil;
  • stagnation of water during irrigation;
  • dense population of plants;
  • the soil is poorly prepared;
  • watering is done with rainwater;
  • too frequent spraying;
  • air humidity 80% or higher;
  • temperature changes from 10 to 22° during the day.

Signs of late blight are brown spots with a pale green border. The inside of the leaves may become covered with a coating of white mold. It manifests itself well when wet weather sets in. Leaves dry out and die when dry weather sets in.

Dark brown stripes may appear on the stems. The plant is withering. It is very difficult to treat a sick gloxinia. Chemicals don't help. Only proper prevention will be effective. It is necessary to water the plants with cuprozan.

You can use polycarbicide and polymarcin for this. Before planting gloxinia or when transplanting it, you need to sterilize the soil. It is good to soak the roots of the plant for 5 minutes in a suspension of captan.

It is almost impossible to cure a diseased plant, so the only correct way out is to burn it.

Gray rot also has its own symptoms. A fluffy white coating appears. It affects pedicels and leaf petioles. The flower rots and dies.

The reasons are the close arrangement of plants, increased humidity in the room, insufficient ventilation of the roots due to compacted soil. You just need to provide moderate watering and add sand, perlite or vermiculite to the soil.

These additives will ensure high-quality ventilation of the roots. There should be no drafts in the room with gloxinia. The disease is treated with fungicides at intervals of 7 days.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. With it, all parts of the plant are covered with a white coating, which quickly turns powdery. The disease develops with excessive watering, temperature changes, and dampness in the room. It is better to burn a completely infected plant immediately. You can try to treat the initial stage of the disease with fungicides.

Diseases caused by pests

Pests cause a lot of damage to flowers. The most popular type of gloxinia pest is thrips. These are insects that feed on plant juices. Their individuals are clearly visible in the photo. Their size in adulthood is up to 1.5 mm. Signs that pests have appeared are small, light-colored dots on the leaves of the flower.

If they are detected, you need to isolate the flower pot from other plants. After this, you need to treat gloxinia with insecticides such as Intavir, Fitoferm, Aktara, Actellik or Karate. To completely destroy thrips, you need to carry out triple treatments at intervals of 7 days. You can take photos to track the dynamics of treatment.

Otherwise, the leaves turn black and fall off.

Conclusion on the topic

Gloxinia, thanks to its abundant and very beautiful flowering, is very popular among gardeners.

This plant of artificial origin came to us from South America. Requires a special approach. It needs to be fed in time, dried leaves removed, and soil supplements added. Caring for it is quite difficult.

If it is violated, the plant may stop blooming. We must not forget about adding fertilizers to the soil for gloxinia. The leaves of a plant dry in normal condition only when it goes into retirement.

It usually happens immediately after flowering.

During dormancy, the tubers of the plant can be placed in the refrigerator. But they require special control and care, otherwise gloxinia will not germinate from frozen tubers. With the most careful observation, gloxinia does not wake up. It’s better to just put the flower in a dark, cool place. The plant sleeps for 3-4 months.

Then small leaves appear on the tuber, the flower stretches out, and buds appear. During this period, special attention should be paid to caring for it. Otherwise, you may not wait until the flowering period. The beautiful buds of this plant can be seen in numerous photos in specialty stores and magazines.

Source: https://DachaDecor.ru/komnatnie-rasteniya/v-pomosch-tsvetovodam-bolezni-gloksiniy-s-foto

Reasons for blackening of gloxinia buds

Inexperienced flower growers are alarmed when they see how gloxinia buds dry out. The queen of green collections is very sensitive to agricultural mistakes. Understanding the symptoms allows you to quickly eliminate the cause. Gloxinia has become a favorite among collectors due to its beautiful flowers. Small bushes delight the eye with a variety of colors and flower shapes on a peduncle growing in the center of a rosette of green leaves.

Problems with Gloxinia flowering

Errors in gloxinia agricultural technology can lead to disastrous consequences at any stage of the growing season. An indoor flower has many care requirements. In most cases, correct interpretation of the symptoms will help save the plant.

Timely awakening after hibernation does not guarantee bright flowering.

Gloxinia can report problems during the flowering period with the following problems:

  • Gloxinia buds are drying.
  • Unopened buds fall off.
  • The buds do not open.
  • A barren flower instead of a flower.
  • Gloxinia buds rot.
  • Lack of flowering.
  • Gloxinia buds turn black.

How to help gloxinia

Help will depend on the problem itself.

Gloxinia buds are drying

Gloxinia's buds dry out for many reasons, and the grower needs to be prepared for an emergency review of agricultural technology to save the flower. The most common reason why buds dry out is a deviation from the normal lighting level. Gloxinia will not bloom whether due to excess or lack of sunlight.

In addition to the lighting indicator, it is necessary to check the air condition in the room with gloxinia and the quality of the soil in the pot. Drying of buds is caused by cold, damp or dry air, drafts, flooded or depleted soil.

Priority measures: Check lighting, temperature and humidity, block drafts, check the soil, replant or fertilize the plant.

Unopened buds fall off

Abundantly flowering gloxinia can drop its buds if the weather is too hot. Dry and hot air encourages the plant to restrain the intensity of flowering by shedding formed buds.

Priority measures: Organize ventilation, eliminating drafts, shade the plant from the midday sun. You should place a container of water next to the flowerpot to increase air humidity.

Buds do not open

Gloxinia's buds do not open for several reasons. The plant produces buds, but cannot flower if there is too little or too much lighting, incorrect fertilizing or depletion of the soil. Pest invasion depletes the plant and blocks the opening of buds. Thrips and spider mites pose a threat to indoor beauty.

Priority measures: The first step in saving gloxinia is to adjust the lighting regime. The plant should be shaded from direct sunlight if there is an excess of light. The lack of lighting is compensated by moving the flowerpot to another window sill. If this is not possible, artificial lighting is provided.

Gloxinia needs to be replanted every spring to avoid soil depletion.

Incorrect application of fertilizing disrupts the natural growing season of the plant. Beginning flower growers are often confused about when and what fertilizers are required for gloxinias.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the period of green mass growth. You should switch to a potassium-phosphorus mineral complex with the formation of the first buds. In the fight against flower pests, treating plants with insecticides will be an invaluable salvation. Remedies for thrips and spider mites are sold in specialized retail outlets. It is important to carefully study the instructions on the packaging and adhere to safety precautions.

Barren flower instead of flower

Sometimes you can observe how the buds of gloxinias without leaves open. The blossoming sepal reveals a small pea. Soon the peduncle turns brown and the bud falls off. The cause of this symptom is a cold winter; the plant has not recovered from winter stress.

Priority measures: the defective bud should be carefully removed along with the peduncle. After some time, the indoor plant will throw out a new bud. In most cases, gloxinia should open full flowers.

It is recommended to treat the specimen with the anti-stress drug Epin. The procedure must be carried out according to the instructions on the package. Soon gloxinia will respond to care with the beauty of blooming flower stalks.

Gloxinia buds rot

Inexperienced flower growers often watch the buds rot. Dry black flower buds should not be confused with rotting ones. In both cases, gloxinia buds do not bloom. When rotting, the bud remains soft and moist. Its color changes to brown, dark brown, black. A detrimental reason for the plant is deviation from the temperature regime and excessive watering. Improper wintering exposes the plant to stress. Gloxinia loses its resistance to rot; excessive watering leads to rotting of the buds.

Priority measures: Watering gloxinia should be carried out exclusively through a tray. Watering is limited for several days to allow the substrate to dry out. You cannot go to the other extreme and allow the earthen clod to dry out. The soil should remain loose and slightly moist.

It is useful to treat the specimen with the anti-stress drug "Epin", which will help gloxinia recover from stress and correctly enter the flowering phase. If the measures taken do not have a positive result, then the problem lies in the tuber.

It is possible that the cold winter caused the tuber to rot.

In this case, you need to carefully examine the tuber. Brown spots are cut off with a sharp knife to healthy tissue. The cut is disinfected with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal. The tuber is planted in a new pot using calcined drainage and a new soil mixture.

No flowering

Flowering is a natural vegetative phase of gloxinia development. Gross violations of the plant's rules of agricultural technology can lead to a lack of flowering as such. Tuberous plants do not form pedicels with buds until they have mastered the entire substrate. Beginning gardeners often plant plants in pots “to grow,” thereby depriving themselves of the pleasure of admiring the bright blooms of gloxinia.

The second, most common reason for the lack of flowers is the incorrect composition of the soil. A large amount of nitrogen leads to vigorous growth of green leaves. Ready-made substrate for violets is perfect for gloxinias. You should also carefully study the fertilizing calendar.

Priority measures: The soil should be replaced with store-bought soil that optimally meets the requirements of gloxinia. A careful study of the composition of the mineral fertilizer complex will help you avoid mistakes.


The complex with a predominance of nitrogen is intended for feeding in the spring, after gloxinia awakens after hibernation. The fertilizer is changed after a sufficient number of leaves have grown. Gloxinia requires a potassium-phosphorus complex to enter the next phase of development. Potassium and phosphorus predominate in these fertilizers, nitrogen is contained in minimal quantities.

Gloxinia grown in a large pot must be transplanted into a container of optimal size.

These indoor plants need low pots with a diameter of 8-12 centimeters. Replanting needs to be done every spring.

Gloxinia buds turn black

Sometimes gloxinia buds wither without blooming. Dried sepals fall off the peduncles. These symptoms are very similar to rotting, with the difference that the black buds are dry. The most common causes of these symptoms are overwintering the tubers in a cold room, dry air, poor soil, too frequent watering, and dry soil.

Priority measures: Place a container of water next to the gloxinia to maintain optimal humidity levels. You can use the two-pallet method with a small window sill. The lower, deeper pan is filled with fine gravel, expanded clay and filled with water. The second pallet with a flowerpot is placed on gravel. In hot weather, the plant is shaded so as not to expose it to stress from direct sunlight.

The error of incorrect wintering is corrected by examining the gloxinia tuber, followed by treatment with an anti-stress drug. Poor soil is replaced with fresh substrate. Overflow is corrected by observing intervals between waterings so that the soil has time to dry out. Drying out of the soil can be avoided using hydrogel.

Plant varieties

Gloxinia has many different varieties, among which it is customary to distinguish terry and simple. Each variety has its own unique leaf color, and each inflorescence is unique in its shape, flowering period and brightness of the buds. Terry gloxinias have smaller flowers, and the bud itself consists of many petals, which makes the inflorescence seem voluminous and fluffy.

Kaiser Welhelm . This variety of gloxinia belongs to the terry variety and is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful varieties. Gloxinia of this species forms a bush of many large dark green leaves. A large number of leaves makes the flower bush voluminous and bushy.

Gloxinia Kaiser Wilhelm

The height of the variety does not reach 40 cm, and the diameter of the flower grows to half a meter. This variety does not bloom immediately, but only after the 3rd or 4th year of growth, and then with proper care. In general, the variety is not capricious; gloxinia grows well and quickly, forming new shoots.

Tolerates low temperatures quite well. Gloxinia blooms closer to spring. The flowers are bright purple tones with a pronounced white border along the edges of the inflorescence. It can bloom throughout the summer, gradually forming new inflorescences. The bud consists of many delicate and velvety petals.

Variety Winter Cherry . Another type of terry gloxinia is distinguished by its unusual flower color. The buds form huge snow-white inflorescences with red and burgundy dots. Winter Cherry looks very impressive, like a house plant, in compositions with other flowers or in bouquets. However, such beauty requires special attention.

winter cherry

For this variety, the correct room temperature and air humidity are important. It is worth watering the plant very carefully to avoid overwatering, but this variety of hydrangea does not tolerate drought well, the plant and buds droop. Like other varieties, it does not tolerate direct sunlight and requires a lot of fertilizer.

Flowering begins in early May and until mid-summer, gloxinia pleases with its colorful flowers. The leaves of this variety are small, dark green in color, and velvety to the touch. The stem is short, which is why the flower looks compact on the window.

Variety Cleopatra . Another representative of terry gloxinias is the Cleopatra variety. It, like many other species, was bred artificially, so it is not fussy to care for and does not require much attention. But it is impossible to leave this flower just standing on the window because of its beauty of the buds, which you always want to admire.

Gloxinia Cleopatra

Cleopatra blooms with huge buds of soft pink and almost white buds. Small splashes of red tones appear on individual inflorescences, which give the flower incredible beauty and grace. Along the edges of the bud, wavy and fuzzy edges form, it seems that they are not there, and because of this, the flowers appear even larger.

The leaves of the variety are medium-sized, dark green in color, velvety to the touch. The Cleopatra variety does not like heavy watering and direct sun. It blooms at the end of April and blooms continuously all summer. And in order for gloxinia to throw out even more inflorescences, it is important to feed the plant on time, but not to overdo it, otherwise growth will come on the leaves, not the inflorescences.

There are also more unusual varieties of tuberous gloxinia, for example, Tiny. The height of the plant is only 2.5-3 cm, the diameter of the flowers is no more than 1 cm. But, despite its size, the flower amazes with its unusual buds of various shades. The leaves of the plant are also small, dark green, velvety and soft. And this variety of gloxinia does not particularly need care, it is perfectly preserved until the next flowering and produces buds throughout the summer.

gloxinia bicolor

Why gloxinia does not bloom: the main sources of the problem

In most cases, questions about why gloxinia does not bloom or bloom at home are directly related to the time of year. Thus, many gardeners note the presence of similar problems in the last months of wintering. First of all, this correlates with violations of the conditions of care.

In addition to errors in supervision, flowering may not occur due to the influence of the following factors:

  • old or damaged tuber. When purchasing an old or broken tuber, the plant needs more care, otherwise gloxinia stops growing;
  • chemical poisoning of growing soil. Using unsuitable fertilizers leads to soil contamination, which causes the plant to quickly rot. Therefore, it is important to approach the purchase of fertilizer correctly;
  • low air humidity. Gloxinia needs sufficient moisture, thanks to which it receives nutrients and opens its buds. Also, the presence of drafts depresses the plant, which is accompanied by a violation of the integrity of the trunk structure;
  • incorrect watering schedule. Since there are no usual conditions at home, any indoor plant requires moderate watering and care. Low or high soil moisture negatively affects flowering;
  • parasitic infection. The Gesneriev family is characterized by weak immunity to most types of parasites, which is why the tubers quickly dry out;
  • non-compliance with transplant rules. If the gloxinia trunk was damaged during transplantation, further development is most often impossible. It also increases the risk of bacterial infection;
  • overfertilization. Overdose not only leads to flower wilting, but also promotes the emergence of parasitic organisms.
  • lack of lighting at high temperature conditions. Flowers by their nature are light-loving and do not tolerate heat, so the room for germination should not have a greenhouse effect, otherwise the plant will not be able to bloom;
  • incorrect processing methods. Lack of timely care has a devastating effect not only on the foliage, but also on the plant trunk.

Note! Having found out the reason why the gardener was tormented by the question of why gloxinia does not bloom and bloom at home, a new task appears: how to make the plant bloom again.

Necessary conditions for healthy flowering

With proper care, gloxinia blooms from spring to early autumn . To ensure healthy flowering, certain conditions must be met:


  1. Warm, bright room, preferably an east window.

  2. If the soil is formed at home, you need to prepare a mixture of leaf, turf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1:1.
  3. Drainage is required to prevent stagnation of water in the pot. It is recommended to use expanded clay and crushed foam.
  4. Correct and timely feeding.
  5. Prevention of diseases and pests.
  6. Suitable pot size. Do not use a container that is too large, otherwise the plant will grow tubers instead of flowering.
  7. Sufficient lighting in humid air.
  8. In order for the flowering period to last longer, faded flower stalks must be removed immediately.
  9. Maintain periods of rest.
  10. Proper care after flowering. At the end of flowering, the plant is prepared for wintering. The dry above-ground part of the plant is cut off, leaving a small stump of 1-2 cm, and the pots with tubers are removed to a cool, dark place. At the end of February, the tubers are carefully removed, cleared of soil, rotten parts are cut off, the sections are disinfected, dried for a day and planted in a new substrate.

In order for gloxinia to bloom again, the stem is cut off after flowering, leaving several pairs of lower leaves. Stepchildren grow from the sinuses. Only the most powerful of them should be left. At this time, it is important to fertilize with a high concentration of nitrogen. These procedures will stimulate the growth of new leaves. When buds appear, you need to apply fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. Repeated flowering is always less lush than the first.

ATTENTION : The age of gloxinia must be taken into account. The older the plant, the less it blooms.

You can additionally read about caring for gloxinia at home here, and here we talked about the rules of watering and fertilizing.

What to do if gloxinia buds dry out

Excessively dry air and high temperatures are the most common reasons why gloxinia buds dry out without blooming. So, if the summer is too hot, the plant should be sprayed in a timely manner. In addition, it is recommended to hang a dampened sheet or towel on the windows.

If there is constant wilting, you can feed with phosphorus-potassium supplements, since these microelements are especially important for the full formation of leaves.

If gloxinia's buds are still drying, and the owner is tormented by the question of what to do about it, attention should be paid to the presence of diseases or the appearance of parasites. Most often, the plant is affected by thrips, nematodes or spider mites.

In case of infection, the plant should be treated with insecticides 2-5 times. If the soil is also contaminated, plant it in another soil for a while. Repeated treatment is carried out after seven days. For prevention purposes, you can use phytosporin or foundationazole.

The following drugs show high effectiveness against most diseases:

Note! The appearance of light dots, spots or gray streaks on gloxinia leaves signals an infection with thrips. Their occurrence is accompanied by damage to the edges of the buds and further falling off. In this case, the stem dries out and collapses.

Septoria

Refers to diseases of a fungal nature . Transported by raindrops and air currents. The optimal conditions for the development of septoria are:

  • keeping the plant in a room where the air temperature is from twenty to twenty-five degrees above zero, and the air humidity is at 98%;
  • moistening the leaves of the plant, the duration of which exceeds forty-eight hours;
  • poor lighting of the plant.

The main symptoms of septoria are the appearance of gray-brown spots on the leaves, reminiscent of rust, premature falling of leaves, bending and drying of stems and shoots. Any copper-based product or fungicide such as benomyl, mancozeb, chlorothalonil or maneb can be used to treat septoria. Treatment of the plant with one of these preparations should be carried out twice with an interval of seven to ten days.

Why do buds turn black and rot?

The main problem why gloxinia buds turn black is the presence of excessive soil moisture or high pH acidity. Blackening is often caused by excess nitrogen-containing additives.

In this case, it is recommended to change the soil and adjust the watering schedule. To reduce the amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, it is best to use complex additives that contain elements of potassium or phosphorus. In addition to their ennobling properties, these drugs allow gloxinia to bloom much faster.

Note! To preserve the tuber and avoid rotting, you can carry out 3-4 treatments using phytosporin, maxim or any other fungicides. This will protect the cellular structure from further development of fungal diseases.

If, in addition to blackness, the buds begin to fall off, most likely the winter was too cold for the plant. This also includes problems of insufficient nutrition or excessive overwatering during wintering periods.

Usually, adding phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting is enough to eliminate blackening. After 1-2 weeks the plant will bloom again. If this does not help, most likely the tuber has begun to disappear.

Late blight

Late blight is one of the most dangerous fungal diseases . It can spread through soil, planting equipment, contaminated planting material, and rainwater.

Infection of a plant most often occurs several months before the development of the main symptoms of the disease. The development of late blight is accompanied by the following circumstances:

  • too dense soil
  • stagnation of water in a flower pot
  • too dense placement of plants
  • using non-sterilized soil mixture
  • watering the plants with rainwater and frequent spraying
  • air humidity exceeding 80%
  • finding gloxinia in a room with an air temperature of seventeen to twenty-two degrees above zero, which drops to ten degrees at night

The main signs of late blight include:

  • the appearance on the leaves of brown spots surrounded by a pale green zone
  • white mold-like coating on the inside of the leaves, which appears in wet weather
  • drying of leaves in dry weather and rotting in wet weather
  • the formation of dark brown stripes on stems and leaf petioles
  • frequent wilting of the plant
  • the appearance of ring-shaped depressions on the gloxinia trunk below the soil level

It is very difficult to cure late blight , since its causative agent does not respond to known chemicals. Therefore, the best way to combat this disease is prevention. It should consist of spraying or watering the plant with solutions of fungicides such as cuprozan, polycarbocide, zineb, polymarcin or captan. Treatment with them should be carried out during periods that may contribute to the development of the disease, and the interval between treatments should be seven days.

Why do gloxinia have empty buds?

A common reason why gloxinia buds do not open or are empty inside is insufficient air temperature. In this case, you can often observe a different picture - the presence of a green pea in the bud. After some time, the underdeveloped leg begins to turn brown and eventually falls off.

The best advice is to cut off the empty stalk and wait for the next buds. If the plant is not sick with anything, and the temperature conditions in the house are sufficient for growth, the problem will solve itself.

Important! Spraying with Epin can help prevent the occurrence of barren flowers. This will speed up recovery, relieve stress, and also help the plant release developed buds.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal . It is characterized by the appearance of a white cobweb coating on all parts of the plant, which then turns into powdery. The development of the disease is facilitated by excessive watering of the plant, sudden temperature changes, and dampness in the room. In addition, infection can occur through planting equipment. If the plant is completely affected by powdery mildew, it is advisable to destroy it. At the initial stage of the disease, spraying with any fungicide will help, which should be carried out not only for gloxinia, but also for nearby plants.

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