Choosing the time to replant lilies at home with a change of location

Lilies actively grow in the garden and develop over 3-5 years. After the specified time period has passed, they require a transplant. If you neglect this procedure, the bulbs will begin to grow in colonies and become smaller, which will have a detrimental effect on the beauty of the flowers. So, when to replant lilies so that the plant continues to delight with a riot of colors and attractive appearance - this is discussed in detail in the article.

The need for replanting lilies depends on the specific plant variety.

Choosing the time of year

There are two points of view when to plant lilies in spring or autumn:

All work on replanting lilies is traditionally carried out in the fall, since it is believed that in this case the flowers will be healthier. This is enough for the bulb to rest. Planting in the fall months will help them re-establish roots.
If it is impossible to carry out planting activities in the autumn months due to bad weather conditions, then it is better to postpone them to the spring. The same method should be followed with a variety for which wintering in a flowerbed is contraindicated. Some gardeners find this method more convenient, since there is no need to insulate the plantings and clear them.

Rainy September weather can upset all plans and force you to postpone work until spring, and in the spring you will have to take into account floods and frosty nights.
To accurately calculate the timing of replanting, it is recommended to use the gardener’s calendar. It is also worth considering the climate of a particular area, because the timing and recommendations depend on this.

As for the general rules, then: in the spring, work should begin after the soil has warmed up. So, for example, for the southern regions the second half of April is considered the best option, and for the northern regions - the first days of May. As for autumn, replanting should be planned for the end of August and September.

The place where you plan to grow flowers should be well lit, and the rays of the sun should also reach it.

Flowerbed arrangement

The selected location should be at a slight elevation, sunny, well-drained, and protected from strong winds. It is undesirable to set aside areas for lilies where tulips, kandyki, crocuses, daffodils, muscari, hazel grouse used to grow - that is, any crops related to bulbous or lily .

This contraindication is based on two reasons:

soil depletion;
general diseases and pests, due to which all or individual plants can suffer, and if it is necessary to dig up one flower, others will inevitably be disturbed.

Tall specimens are best placed in the center of the flowerbed, low ones (pixie groups) - along the edges

A good solution would be to surround the flowers with a lush green cloud of asparagus, a transparent veil of astilbe, a vase-shaped border of hostas (wavy “Mediovariegata”, tall “Empress Wu”). Properly selected companions will favorably emphasize the beauty of graceful beauties and, at the right moment, will disguise the exposed stems with openwork or wide foliage. When thinking through the composition, it is important to take into account not only the visual combination in the flowerbed, but also agricultural technology in the future, and the vegetation cycles of potential partners.

Soil preparation

The soil is prepared in advance, based on varietal requirements. Most representatives of this family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soils. In any case, plants will not be able to bloom beautifully on heavy, clayey, rocky soils.

Poorly planted flowers will not be able to open up in full beauty: the petals will be dull, pale, flowering will be poor, the aroma will be weak

The soil should be breathable, loose, with the addition of sand. When planning to plant lilies, it is important to consider that:

varieties of the Asian and eastern groups, tiger and Canadian species prefer slightly acidic soils. They will like mulching with fallen pine needles, softwood lumber (shavings or sawdust);
for varieties of American origin and tubular , soil with a neutral acidity level is better suited;
the soil for leopard hybrids (with pronounced specks on the petals) and candidum is made slightly alkaline.

If necessary, adjustments are made: highly alkaline soil is acidified with a small amount of finely ground colloidal or granular sulfur; the sour one is alkalized by adding chalk, dolomite flour or lime.

Lilies do not welcome an excess of organic matter in the soil. For the most part, mineralized fertilizers are recommended for them.

When is the best time to replant?

The well-being and health of lilies, in particular, depend on when the planting was carried out. So, the best time to transplant lilies to a new place is considered to be 3-4 weeks after the end of the period of abundant flowering.

This time is enough for the bulbs to gain mass and be able to adapt normally to the new environment.

After a period of abundant flowering, you need to pick off all the flowers. This will help the plant not waste its nutrients.

Is it possible in summer?

It is possible to carry out a transplant in this case, but only in some cases. As a rule, Candidum lilies enter the dormant stage in July-August, so it is better to perform the procedure precisely in the indicated months.

Asian hybrids also tolerate planting well in the summer months, so any time is suitable for such an event. If the flowers have bloomed early and a month has passed since the end of the process, then replanting can be done in the summer.

If you choose an unlit area of the garden plot for planting, the crop will simply die

Changing location during flowering

As for the flowering period itself, moving the plant from place to place during this time is extremely undesirable, since it can cause more harm than good.

An exception is possible only in the case of Asian hybrids, since, as stated above, they are resilient and can withstand transplantation at any time.

When digging flowers, care must be taken not to damage the bulbs, otherwise you will not have to expect abundant flowering.

It is necessary to move the plant from place to place at least once every 3-5 years, but it is best to take into account the characteristics of the variety

What's the right way to do it in spring?

The best option is to replant garden lilies after flowering has ended. But, some gardeners practice carrying out the procedure in the spring, believing that this time of year is better suited for planting activities.

At this time of year, the best option would be to propagate the plant by dividing a nest of bulbs. In this case, it is especially important to dig up, divide and replant in time before the lilies begin to push out the main stem.

If the height of the stem is more than 10 centimeters, then it is advisable to leave the transplant until autumn.

If the bulbs are dug up and the gardener is faced with the task of preserving them until spring, then care must be taken to maintain optimal storage conditions. For this purpose, you can place them in boxes and store them at a temperature of no less than +1 and no more than +4 degrees.

After completion of work, it is necessary to ensure watering of the holes

Lily propagation methods

This flower crop can be propagated using different methods. Let's look at all the ways to propagate lilies:

By dividing a nest of bulbs. The easiest and most convenient way. The mother bulb forms daughter bulbs every year; they are separated for propagation and production of new plants.

Note! Further in the next paragraph we will talk in more detail about propagation by dividing a nest of bulbs with subsequent transplantation.

Children. If you dig up an onion, you will see small onions around it with a diameter of about 1 centimeter, these are the babies. Over the entire season, up to ten babies are formed. You can propagate by children in two ways: by digging, by raking out the earth at the base of the roots and then sifting the earth. They should then be planted in a separate bed to a depth of five centimeters with a gap of 10 cm from each other.

Scales. The most productive method, because from one bulb you can get up to twenty scales, and up to two to five bulbs can form on each scale. The bulb is dug up, washed, then the scales are carefully separated from the base. You should select the healthiest scales, wash them with water, disinfect them in a fungicide, for example, Maxim Dachnik, and it is also useful to treat them with a growth stimulant, for example, Epin, Zircon, Energen. Then you should place the scales in a bag with wet sawdust, tie the bag and put it in a warm, dark place. After a couple of months, you will see small bulbs on the scales, which are separated and transplanted into a temporary container or directly into the garden.

By cuttings. A rather unpopular method of propagating lilies. Stem segments with a dormant bud, leaves with parts of the stem, and individual leaves are used as cuttings. Cuttings are collected after flowering or during budding. The upper part of the stem is divided into equal sections with 5-7 leaves, on each section you need to remove the lower leaves so that only two or three upper leaves remain. Then you should soak them in a solution of a growth stimulator. After this, the cuttings are planted in high-quality soil; they are placed in the soil 1/2 of their length at an angle. The cuttings should be covered with film or a jar, and then ventilated daily. After about 30-60 days, baby bulbs will appear on them; they are separated into a separate container and grown.

Bulbs. Propagation of lilies by bulbs, which form in the axils of the leaves, is the safest way, but they are formed only on some “bulb-bearing” varieties of lilies. They should be collected immediately after flowering. It is recommended to first stratify them in the refrigerator for 20-30 days. Then they can be planted in a temporary container or directly in open ground, to a depth of three cm, with a gap of 5 cm between them.

Seeds. The method of propagating lilies is ineffective and time-consuming, and therefore extremely unpopular. When propagated by seed, flowering can be seen only in the fifth or seventh year. In this case, varietal characteristics are inherited to a small extent, and there is also a possibility that the plants will die. Lily seeds should be sown in February or March in nutritious, loose soil. After the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are planted in separate containers. In the spring, in May or early June, lily seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden.

Features of various regions of Russia

The main criterion that serves as a guide for gardeners when deciding when to replant lilies is a period of at least a month after the last flowers have fallen from the bush.

In 30-40 days, the bulb will accumulate the necessary reserves, which will give it the strength to survive the winter and begin a new life cycle. Therefore, gardeners who do not have experience should monitor when the lilies fade and only then dig them up for subsequent replanting.

When making a decision, you should not be guided by the opinion of neighbors who believe that they know better when to replant lilies. You should only rely on your own opinion.

This period occurs at different times depending on the region:

The earliest time flower transplantation was carried out was in the Siberian region, when September had just come into its own. Even better - in the last days of August. But, of course, everything depends on weather conditions, because Siberia is famous for low air temperatures - the main thing is that there is 1-1.5 months left before the expected weather change towards sub-zero temperatures.
Transplantation in the Urals begins in September. The southern regions are 1-2 weeks later.
If warm weather is promised in the fall, in the Moscow region the procedure begins in the last ten days of September.
In the southern part of the country, work is carried out in October, since the warm weather persists there longer than in any Russian region.

Gardeners who rely on the lunar calendar choose a spring or autumn day on the waning moon.

It is recommended to carry out planting activities in the fall, but if this is not possible, you can choose spring days

Diseases and pests

Although some types of lilies are poisonous to humans and domestic animals, they are not able to protect themselves from pests and diseases.

The above-ground parts of the plant are often attacked by the lily rattle. Graceful buds are especially affected by these red beetles. You should be careful when insects that resemble beneficial entomophages – “firefighter” beetles – appear in the garden, and immediately use insecticides against them (Decis, Intra-vir).

The lily rattle (pictured) feeds on leaves and buds, gnawing holes of various shapes in them

Bulb mites and wireworms often damage bulbs, causing disease. The cause of rot and fungal infections may also be non-compliance with agricultural practices during cultivation. The drugs “Maxim” and “Prestige” will help to avoid these problems, as well as creating conditions in which the lilies will feel comfortable.

The situation is much worse if the planting material is infected with viral diseases. Suspicious-looking spots, streaks, stains on the leaves and petals, unusual for the varietal color, and strange deformations of the peduncle should greatly alert the gardener. Dangerous symptoms indicate variegation or rosette. Unfortunately, scientists have not yet created drugs for such diseases. It will not be possible to save the plants; they will all have to be destroyed. Infection occurs with the participation of a common pest - aphids, so it is recommended to fight it first.

All tools used when working in the flower garden must be washed with alcohol-containing liquids.

Practical recommendations

The most important thing is to choose the right place before transplanting lilies. To avoid making mistakes, the following recommendations should be considered:

The chosen location must be well ventilated, which means that the area located near the walls of a country house or along an external fence is absolutely not suitable.
The area where planting is planned should be well illuminated by sunlight (at least 4-5 hours a day).
You should also know how to plant lilies, because proper placement also affects subsequent flowering. So, large specimens need to be planted every 20-25 cm, and short ones - every 10-15 cm.
The depth of the holes should be at least 15 cm.

The next year after transplantation, lilies may not bloom brightly. This does not mean that a mistake was made in the process of moving from one place to another - the plant simply needs to gain strength and grow.

During active flowering, the plant should be touched only as a last resort.

Beginner mistakes

Novice gardeners who are planting flowers for the first time can make a number of mistakes. To prevent them, you should remember a number of rules:

If you want to preserve the decorative appearance of the site, you cannot cut off the shoots of fading crops.
Before you begin transplanting, you need to inspect the bulbs. You need to get rid of suspicious scales and dust them with ash. Dried bulbs will become strong again if they are soaked for 3-4 hours in a special solution that contains epin, zircon or HB-101.
After flowering has stopped, lilies should not be touched for 1-1.5 months, otherwise they will not survive the winter.
It is strictly forbidden to leave specimens that have suffered from rot in order to preserve and plant more material.
After replanting, you should not provide exhausting care for the plant - it is enough to mulch the soil after the bulbs are moved into it, as well as regular watering.

Replanting after flowering in late summer

A simple procedure is performed on a cloudy, dry day. Care is taken not to injure the bulbs dug up with a pitchfork by vigorously shaking off the soil from the roots. Moistened coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the holes in a slide. Having examined the bulbs and made sure that there are no possible damages, they are immediately placed in prepared holes of appropriate sizes, freely placing long roots along the sandy “hill”. The planting depth should be three times the height of the bulb. This rule does not apply to candidums whose rosette of leaves is supraground. They should not be buried.

The distance between the holes also depends on the size of the bulbs

If desired, before planting, several of the largest upper scales are broken off from the bulb, which are later used for propagation. Damaged areas must be generously sprinkled with finely crushed activated carbon.

The leaves are removed; the drying stem does not need to be completely cut off. It can be left as a kind of “beacon”.