Lilies are flowers loved by many gardeners for their decorative nature and ease of care. They reproduce by forming daughter bulbs, so gradually the plants in the flowerbed become crowded. Flowers slow down in development, buds become deformed, and budding becomes scarce. Transplanting lilies to another place in the fall will help solve this problem. The procedure is, in principle, simple, but you must first read the instructions and recommendations so as not to ruin the flowers through inept actions.
Is it possible to transplant lilies to a new place in the fall?
Lilies spontaneously reproduce by daughter bulbs. Gradually, each of them turns into a whole “bouquet”. Crowding in the flowerbed prevents the normal development of plants, so they periodically need replanting. The best time for this is autumn.
The intervals between procedures depend on the type of lily. The most active “babies” are formed by Asian and tubular hybrids. They need to be replanted in the fall every 2-3 years or even annually. For American plants, it is enough to transfer daughter bulbs to a new flowerbed once every 8-10 years.
Such “thickets” look nice, but lack of space is harmful for plants
Transplanting in autumn is preferable to spring. By this time, their active growing season is ending. They “hibernate” and practically do not react to the “stress” they have suffered. From the above-ground part, only dry stems remain that do not need nutrients. The next season, after transplanting in the fall, you can already expect flowering from the lilies.
When transplanted in the spring, the bulb must spend energy not only on rooting, but also on the formation of the above-ground part. Often it lacks nutrients, so the lily either develops very slowly or shoots do not appear at all. Such specimens have to wait up to 2-3 years for flowering.
The weather in autumn is more favorable for transplantation. The earth is well warmed up, saturated with rainwater, and the weather is quite comfortable and cool (10-12 °C). Autumn rains also contribute to increased air humidity.
Plants planted in spring require careful care in summer. They will have to be protected from direct sunlight, constantly monitor the moisture level of the substrate, weed and loosen the flower bed.
Replanting in autumn is not practiced only for late-flowering varieties. The interval between this procedure and the end of flowering should be at least 25-30 (preferably 40-45) days, otherwise the bulbs will not have time to ripen. In many Russian regions, by this time frosts have already set in and snow is falling.
In what month should lilies be replanted in the fall?
It is impossible to accurately indicate the time for transplanting lilies to another place in the fall. This depends on the characteristics of the regional climate. Therefore, gardeners focus on the weather outside and the condition of the stems. The optimal temperature for the procedure is 10-12 °C.
If it is warmer, after transplanting in the fall, the lilies will not only have time to take root in the new place, but also begin to grow. The emerging shoots will not survive even the first frost, and the bulb will also be seriously damaged.
When transplanting is carried out at lower temperatures, the risk that the plants simply do not have enough time to adapt increases significantly. In many regions of Russia, frost and snow already in mid-autumn are by no means a rare occurrence.
Before you start replanting lilies in the fall, you will have to study long-term weather forecasts. If weather forecasters promise frosts over the next 25-30 days, it’s already too late. The procedure will have to be postponed until spring.
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The fact that the bulb has accumulated enough nutrients is indicated by completely dry, fragile, easily broken peduncles. You cannot dig them up earlier for replanting in the fall - the stems will have to be cut off, which will increase the risk of infection. In addition, it is very likely that a bulb experiencing nutrient deficiency in the fall will not survive frost.
Important! It is better to indicate the location of the lilies in the flowerbed in advance by setting guidelines. Especially if there are specimens planted separately, otherwise they can simply be lost or damaged by digging them up.
Stems that are completely dry by autumn mean that all the nutrients from the above-ground part of the plant have passed into the bulb.
When to replant lilies in the fall in the Moscow region and the middle zone
Central Russia is characterized by a temperate, relatively mild climate. Negative temperatures before November are rare here. Therefore, you can transplant lilies in the fall throughout September. And with favorable weather forecasts - even in the first half of October.
When to replant lilies in autumn in Siberia
Transplanting lilies in autumn in Siberia is a very conventional name for the procedure. Local gardeners do this in the second half of August or at the very beginning of September. All work must be completed by the end of the first ten days of this month.
When to replant lilies in the fall in the Urals
The climate of the Urals and Siberia is similar in many ways. Therefore, when gardeners here talk about transplanting lilies in the fall, they also mean the end of August.
Important! If you can use the lunar calendar as a guide when transplanting lilies in the fall, the most favorable time is considered to be the waxing moon in Capricorn and the waning moon in Scorpio. Such work is not carried out during the full moon or new moon.
The only exception to these terms is the Candidum lily. This species always overwinters with a rosette of new leaves. Therefore, its transplantation in the fall is carried out 7-10 days earlier than for other varieties and hybrids.
The development cycle of Candidum lilies, easily identified by the abundance of flowering, is noticeably different from their “relatives”
Deadlines
When it comes to replanting, we rely on the characteristics of the variety. And here, early flowering lilies and lilies with medium flowering periods seem more suitable for the middle Russian latitudes. Early varieties bloom in late June-July, and middle varieties finish blooming in mid-August. As a result, by the time of the scheduled transplant, they have time to rest and gain strength. Accordingly, August and September are the best time to transplant lilies. If you schedule a transfer at a later time, you will have to carefully monitor the weather all the time.
In the case of late transplantation, you need to take care of shelter for the winter so that the bulbs do not freeze. In addition, late transplantation provokes inhibition of the development of flower stalks in the next season.
Late varieties, which delight us with flowering throughout September, will have to be left until spring. In mid-latitudes, late autumn replanting will not do any good.
Photo gallery of common varieties of lilies
Variety "Triumphator"
Variety “Indian Diamond” Variety “Henry” Variety “Leopard” Variety “Kudrevataya” Variety “Armenian”
How to properly transplant lilies to another place in the fall
Technically, there is nothing complicated about replanting lilies in the garden in the fall. But you need to carefully follow the technique. The work is painstaking and requires care and precision.
Choosing a landing site
The rules for transplanting lilies in the fall necessarily include taking into account their “requirements” regarding the location and growing conditions. The site for the flower bed is selected based on the following criteria:
- Availability of protection from sharp gusts of wind and cold drafts.
- Good lighting in the morning and evening. During the period of maximum solar activity, light “openwork” partial shade is desirable to avoid burns. Only Asian and royal hybrids do not suffer from direct sunlight.
- A light, but at the same time fertile substrate in which neither water nor air stagnate. In waterlogged, dense soil without access to oxygen, the bulbs quickly rot after transplanting in the fall.
Lilies are definitely not shade-loving: when there is a lack of light, the stems stretch, the leaves become smaller, the buds are deformed, the petals fade.
“Predecessors” also matter. They grow best when planted after any legumes or popular ornamental flowering annuals (marigolds, calendula, asters). You should not choose for replanting in the fall an area where any bulbous or rhizomatous perennials previously grew. They are affected by the same infections as lilies.
These are completely self-sufficient flowers; they do not need “companions”, especially low-growing ones. They cover the bases of the lilies’ stems, which they really don’t like. If you wisely select varieties with different flowering periods and petal colors, the flowerbed will not lose its decorative effect throughout the summer.
Important! When transplanting lilies in the fall, the aesthetic factor is also taken into account. Flowerbeds are placed so that they are clearly visible, or not far from the house or recreation area.
How to dig and divide bulbs
When transplanting lilies in the fall, bulbs are always dug up before the holes in the flowerbed are prepared. Otherwise, it is impossible to accurately guess their number and determine the depth and dimensions of the site.
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The procedure is very simple:
- Water the flowerbed generously in advance (1.5-2 hours before).
- Cut off the stems, leaving “stumps” about 10 cm high.
- Dig the bulbs around the perimeter (trunk circle with a diameter of 25-30 cm). Gently loosen the substrate shallowly around the base of the stem.
- Place your palms in soft soil on both sides of the peduncle. Having felt the main bulb, pick it up with the fingers of both hands from below and gently pull.
- Sift the soil remaining in the hole between your fingers. “Children” in different types of lilies are formed both on the part of the stem that is underground and directly at the base of the mother bulb.
Before transplanting in the fall, you need to find out exactly how this type of lily forms daughter bulbs.
Then the lily bulbs for transplanting in the fall to another place are sorted. Large and small ones are placed in different containers. In the largest specimens, the remains of the stem are “twisted”. If it is completely dry, it will come away from the bottom very easily. Large bulbs are examined: if there are two or more “tops” and a void between them (they seem to “split” into 2-3 parts), they are carefully broken by hand, obtaining more specimens for replanting in the fall (the so-called division of the lily root).
Having divided the bulbs, each one is carefully examined. Specimens with noticeable damage are rejected. Bulbs with spots of mold, rot, traces of other fungal diseases, partially eaten by rodents, pests, or dried out are not suitable for planting.
Lily bulbs with a diameter of 1 cm or more are suitable for transplanting in autumn.
The roots of the bulbs that have passed the test are cut off if they are broken when dug out of the soil. Others are shortened, leaving about 10-12 cm. The planting material is washed in clean, cool water, after removing the dry scales. If there are minor injuries, the affected tissue is cut off with a sharp, disinfected knife. The “wounds” are immediately sprinkled with powdered chalk, activated carbon, cinnamon, sifted wood ash, or smeared with regular brilliant green.
To prevent fungal and other diseases, lilies before transplanting in the fall are pickled in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate (1-1.5 hours) or any fungicide (15-20 minutes).
Some gardeners also practice soaking the bulbs in a solution of any biostimulant. But this is an optional stage of their preparation for disembarkation.
Important! It is advisable to dig up the bulbs immediately before transplanting in the fall. If for some reason the procedure is postponed, they are wrapped in cloth and constantly kept in a moderately damp state.
Well preparation
Before preparing holes for transplanting lilies into open ground in the fall, you need to clear the selected area of plant and other debris, dig it up and add the necessary fertilizers in the process. For 1 m², 3-5 liters of humus or rotted compost and 20-25 g of complex phosphorus-potassium composition are enough (plants do not need nitrogen in autumn). Store-bought mineral fertilizer can be replaced with sifted wood ash (0.5 l/m²).
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Tubular and curly lilies do not like acidic substrate. To correct this deficiency, dolomite flour or ground eggshells (200-300 g/m²) are added to the soil when digging. Oriental lilies, tiger lilies and most modern hybrids do not like alkaline soil. To turn the soil slightly acidic, add peat or fresh pine sawdust.
Important! Lilies love good aeration. If possible, they are planted in bulk flower beds 20-25 cm high.
The site is prepared 2-3 weeks before transplanting lilies in the fall. Immediately before the procedure, the soil is well loosened and holes are formed.
At the bottom of each hole for transplanting lilies in the fall, drainage must be placed (a layer of 3-5 cm). These can be pebbles, expanded clay, small clay shards, brick chips, coarse sand. Lilies are planted on a “cushion” of humus; about a handful is poured into each hole.
Important! If there are moles, shrews, or mice on the site, each bulb is lightly greased with birch tar or Vishnevsky liniment before planting. Any pungent odor is very unpleasant to them.
Planting pattern and depth
The planting depth for each bulb is determined individually. To do this, measure its height, multiply by three and add the length of the roots. As a result, the hole for transplanting lilies in the fall is dug 5-7 cm deeper, taking into account additional layers of drainage and humus. The exception is Candidum lilies. They are planted so that the top of the bulb protrudes 3-5 mm from the soil.
It is recommended to mark the holes in the flower bed in advance so that there is enough space for the lilies when transplanting in the fall.
Daughter bulbs are planted in common trenches 10-12 cm deep (drainage and humus are also required at the bottom). This is the so-called “school”. Next fall they can be transplanted to a permanent place in the flowerbed.
A maximum of 1-2 leaves will appear from the daughter bulbs after transplantation in the fall next season, this is normal
The interval between plants depends on the size of adult lilies. If they are tall, 25-30 cm are left between them when transplanting, dwarf ones - 15-20 cm. “Children” are planted after 8-10 cm.
Lilies are planted in holes that have been previously spilled with water. A “mound” of soil is formed at the bottom, sprinkled with sand and the roots are spread along its “slopes”. The hole is filled with earth, periodically carefully compacting the substrate. After transplanting in the fall, lilies must be watered abundantly (4-5 l). When the water is absorbed, the soil is mulched.
When replanting, be sure to control the position of the roots, not allowing them to bend upward.
Instructions
Transplantation is not a complicated agrotechnical process that even a novice gardener can do. But you need to work with the plant carefully so as not to damage it.
Digging up bulbs
Before digging up the bulbs, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the bush with a pitchfork. The more lush and lighter the soil, the easier it is to dig up the bulbs.
When to dig up lilies for replanting? You need to pay attention to the roots - they should remain bulbs, and if not completely, then for the most part.
If there are young children, you can propagate the bush with them. If there are no children, it is allowed to divide the onion nest into parts in order to replant the bush.
If tall bushes are planted, before replanting it is necessary to support them so as not to damage the bulbs with pegs later.
Planting bulbs
Planting bulbs is carried out in the following way:
- Preparing the holes - their depth should be such that the onions are covered with earth, the layer thickness of which is approximately 4 cm.
- In the case when the bulb has a decomposed root system, the rhizome in the hole must be straightened.
- Sand is poured into the prepared hole.
- An onion is placed inside the hole. The roots are covered with sand, the onion itself must remain clean.
- The hole is filled with earth, which is slightly compacted.
- A layer of mulch, made from sawdust or pine chips, is placed on top. Mulching will help protect the seed from frost.
Film can be used as additional winter protection. But it is necessary to cover the place where the bulbs are planted only after the temperature drops to -2 °C...-4 °C degrees.
If several bushes are planted nearby, it is necessary to make a distance of approximately 25-30 cm between the holes. The denser the planting, the sooner the bushes will need to be transplanted, which, as they grow, will not have enough space.
Care after autumn transplantation of lilies
After transplanting in the fall, lilies do not require any special care; you can forget about the flower bed. About a week before the first frost, the mulch layer is renewed, bringing its thickness to 7-10 cm, or the soil is covered with spruce branches. When a particularly harsh winter with little snow is predicted, you can install arcs over the flowerbed and stretch 2-3 layers of any covering material over them.
In spring, the shelter from lilies transplanted in autumn is removed as soon as the temperature reaches above zero at night.
Useful tips for a gardener
Simple tips will help you replant and grow lilies:
- Late-flowering varieties are planted in spring;
- instead of a solution of potassium permanganate, a solution of Fitosporin or another fungicide is suitable for disinfection;
- flowers need watering from the second half of summer until late autumn;
- when sprouts appear, the lilies are fed with nitrogen fertilizer;
- after flowering, lilies are fed with a potassium-phosphorus complex;
- in rainy autumn, planted lilies are covered with agrofibre, then they will better withstand the winter;
- if the plants bloom for a short time and quickly wither, they need to be transplanted to a high bed;
- manure is not used to fertilize flower gardens, since it may contain pathogenic microorganisms.
