Leaves turn yellow and dry out
It is a pity if large violet leaves begin to dry out, especially when they should not do so. But this is exactly the problem that flower growers face most often!
— Violet leaves turn yellow and wither if the conditions are not suitable for it, because each variety has its own characteristics;
— Leaves may turn yellow if they are constantly exposed to water when watering;
— Ring yellow spots appear in winter when the flowerpot is in a draft;
— The plant turns yellow, becomes stunted and lethargic due to root rot. Then urgent drying and replanting with fungicide treatment is needed;
— Wide yellow trails on the leaves are left by thrips when they eat away the pulp.
Photo: raiclimat.ru
Common causes of violets drying out
Let's look at the reasons why violet flowers dry out and fall off and why the foliage turns black.
Lots of sunshine
Saintpaulia is a heat-loving plant that grows naturally in the hot climate of Africa. The flower grows in the shade of trees, which provide protection from the sun's rays. When a violet on a windowsill is exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves and flowers begin to dry out and wither. Therefore, the window is shaded or the flower pot is moved to another place. But, in any case, bright lighting is required.
Brown spots on violet leaves
Household violets rarely suffer from fungus, but this happens much more often with outdoor flower beds. And the first symptoms may be rusty, brown or brown spots on the leaves.
— Large brown spots appear on delicate leaves from cold and drafts;
— The leaves turn brown when the violet lacks nutrients. Indeed, during flowering, it absorbs them twice as actively;
— Textured red spots appear when damaged by rust. She likes humid but fairly cool days. Sometimes orange bumps appear;
— Brown soft shoots and leaves are a sure sign of brown rot of the same name, which most often affects young plants;
— Brown spots on the leaves due to late blight dry out and spread almost before our eyes;
— The leaves begin to darken and rot from the stem and petiole if the violet suffers from fusarium. The disease affects the root system, and it is almost impossible to cure it;
— Chaotic brown streaks combined with a stop in development indicate an incurable bronze virus;
— The leaves darken at the edges when the violet soil is too wet and needs to be dried.
Photo: aa2aa.ru
Petunia leaf diseases: descriptions with photos, treatment
Treatment options
By changes in its appearance, the violet signals its poor condition. If the leaves begin to dry around the edges, then there is a lack of compliance with the rules for caring for these delicate flowers . To help the plant and prevent its death, it is necessary to take measures to improve agricultural technology as soon as possible:
- adjust the watering regime. The frequency of watering should be selected depending on the time of year, room temperature and the individual characteristics of each plant. The problem with individual selection can be solved by using pots with automatic watering or switching plants to wick watering;
- water with soft water. Hard tap water should be left to stand for at least 24 hours. Flower growers living outside the city can use rain or melt water for irrigation;
- monitor air humidity. As necessary, the air should be humidified by possible means;
- Fertilize regularly. Depending on the season and growth phase, violets require different nutrients, macro and microelements. It is necessary to systematically fertilize or transplant plants into a new nutrient substrate.
White coating on violet leaves
At first, the white coating may seem like a thick layer of dust. The leaves of the violet are textured in themselves, so at first it is not too visible whether there is a coating or cobwebs on them.
— An intense white coating is left by powdery mildew, one of the most common fungi on plants;
— A grayish coating on brown softened leaves is a symptom of gray rot or botrytis;
— Pale mucous plaque on hot summer days is a sign of vascular bacteriosis. It is urgent to establish ventilation and lower the air temperature;
—Large white flakes throughout the plant indicate the presence of mealybugs;
- A silvery coating that quickly darkens or turns red appears due to downy mildew.
Photo: sanpros.ru
Diseases of raspberry leaves: descriptions with photos, treatment
We answer why the leaves of violets dry out at the edges
The appearance of dry tips on the leaf blades of indoor violets is a fairly common occurrence. The reasons for such changes may lie in improper care, the presence of diseases or pests. It is necessary to inspect the violet as soon as possible and understand what led to the drying of the leaves .
The sooner the diagnosis is made, the sooner measures can be taken to save the plant. Delaying may lead to the fact that it will no longer be possible to save the flower.
Pale and light leaves
Most varieties of violets grow with beautiful decorative leaves, so it is quite easy to notice when they fade and fade. Find out the reason and quickly adjust the care - then the flower will recover on its own!
- Sucking insects draw out all the juices from the violet, and it fades and withers;
— Nematodes eat the root system, which is why the above-ground part grows weak, sluggish, pale and deformed.
Photo: domashniecvety.ru
Diseases of strawberry leaves: descriptions with photos, treatment
General advice on what to do if a violet withers and dries
- Remove damaged leaves immediately; they will not recover anyway, and the plant will have to spend a lot of energy maintaining their vital activity.
- If you find signs of disease, remove the violet away from other flowers, as there may be pests on it and your neighbors risk infecting them too.
- Regardless of the cause of the disease, it is better to transplant the flower into a new substrate.
- Violets are very sensitive to microclimate; it must be stable. Avoid room temperature changes, drafts, and stuffiness.
- Water only with purified warm water.
- Bathe your violets from time to time, this will support their immunity.
- In winter, heat-loving plants are especially vulnerable; monitor them carefully.
Even a very experienced florist will not be able to immediately tell you why the violet is drying up. You will have to carefully review every possible cause and change the conditions of care.
It is not always possible to save the plant. But even if things are bad, you can try to revive the cutting by cutting it at the root, removing most of the leaves and placing it in water so that it takes on new roots. Very often in such cases the violet begins a second life.
Save the best leaf
This method can help if previous methods did not work and the flower continues to die. You need to carefully inspect the plant and choose the healthiest and densest leaf. Cut it off and place it in a glass of settled water. When the roots of the leaf grow a couple of centimeters, it will be possible to plant it in loose soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
Using the methods listed above, you can save your favorite violet, even if it seems to you that the situation is already hopeless. The most important thing is not to forget about the basic rules for caring for this flower: store the pot in a warm place, water it 1-2 times a week through a tray (so that the plant does not rot), remove dry leaves and sometimes feed it.
Violet leaves dry around the edges
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Lately I have been very often faced with the problem of violet lovers abusing chemicals to treat plants against mites, thrips and other infections. Something is slightly wrong - they immediately treat their plants with quite toxic agents. Without even understanding the nature of the disease. Thus, poisoning not only yourself but also your loved ones.
Before you fly to the nearest flower shop for fitoverm, agravertine or neoron, you need to think about how this or that disease appeared on your plants. Ticks, thrips, aphids, scale insects, etc. can only enter your home with a purchased baby, a bouquet of flowers, through a window (except in winter). There are no other sources of infection. Therefore, if you did not bring home all these sources of infection, you have mosquito nets on the windows or, even better, snow outside the window - this is not a tick (thrips, aphids, etc.).
So, if you suspect you have a tick,
those. deformed leaves, curved and small, appear in the center of the rosette; on shortened petioles, you should carefully examine the center of the rosette with a magnifying glass to identify the mite itself. The tick really loves thickening, and in these places it would go through 2 reproduction cycles even in 2 weeks. And its quantity would already be enormous. You would have noticed. If the violet in the thicket is not infected, then it is 99.9% not a mite. Most likely this happened due to violations of agricultural technology. Complete drying, death of the root, plus heat, puts stress on the plant. The hormones abscisic acid and ethylene are produced. Ethylene blocks the development of the apical meristem, and the growth point is inhibited. In combination with abscisic acid, such a cocktail can give exactly the same picture as with tick oppression. After all, the picture of small, hard leaves when attacked by a mite is given not only by the mite infestation itself, but also by the hormones that are produced under such stress. Or drying out, death of the root, then watering, souring, a drop in immunity, the center of the socket becoming stuck on which a secondary infection sticks. It gives a picture of pinpoint and crooked lesions on young leaves.
If spots appear on the violet leaves, the leaves dry out around the edges
.
Most likely this is due to a lack of osmotic pressure created by the roots. Those. the roots do not “pump” water enough. The pressure is only sufficient for young leaves that have a small evaporation surface. Leaves with a large evaporation surface evaporate more water than they receive. Hence the withering.
Sometimes overfed leaves grown with a lack of light can wither - they have a loose structure and look like burdocks, and have a large surface area. (add the amount of light, not the length of light, do not fertilize, tear off old large leaves, i.e. reduce the evaporation surface.).
When part of the roots, especially root hairs, die off due to severe drying, and it is with the help of horse hairs that the roots receive most of the water and nutrition. (you just need to normalize watering)
When the substrate becomes waterlogged and sour, and pathogenic microflora develops. (a transfer is needed here).
If there is a lack of oxygen to the roots, the roots must breathe. (replace alumina with a loose substrate).
The leaves just age - this is a normal process. (tear off old leaves).
If you find lightened areas of irregular shape on the leaves,
sometimes similar to a marble pattern - a high probability of sunburn, especially after spraying the plant. These spots may also be associated with temperature changes when opening the window.
You dug up a violet and found thickened roots
which are easily destroyed, or a thickened stem shaped like a carrot - NEMATODE? Maybe. But exactly the same formations are also characteristic of plants with wick watering.
Over-drying, over-watering. If the plant has no turgor,
this means that evaporation by the leaves exceeds the pumping of water by the roots, or high osmotic pressure is aimed at extracting water from the plant into the substrate.
1) Over-salted substrate, i.e. there is a law when the concentration of salts always tends to balance, and if the concentration of salts in the substrate greatly exceeds the concentration of salts in the plant itself, then the osmotic pressure tends to extract water from the plant into the substrate. And it is more difficult for the roots to overcome this pressure, i.e. the roots cannot pump up water.
2) there is no root, it is poorly developed, the root hairs are poorly developed or destroyed due to severe drying and it has rotted, etc.
3) the substrate is very dry
Superficial mechanical damage
Long days, overfertilization, violation of agricultural practices
Deepening of the growth point - the appearance of rust
Rust
Rust
You can lose your favorite violet due to the fungus Phragmidium, which causes rust - a dangerous disease of indoor plants. This disease should be recognized and treated in the early stages. The likelihood of violets becoming infected with rust is higher during the winter-spring transition period. Lack of sunlight, reduced immunity for this reason, and the presence of fungus in the apartment are the main causes of rust.
Signs of rust are clearly visible in the photo. Yellowish spots appear on the outer surface. Turning the leaf over, you can see yellow pustules - colonies of the fungus. When pustules rupture, fungal spores spread throughout the room and infect other plants. Having discovered signs of rust on your violet, you need to begin emergency treatment of the flower:
- remove and destroy leaves affected by the fungus;
- isolate the flower from other indoor plants;
- treat the leaves with a fungicide.
Help against rust: “Fitosporin-M”, “Baktofit”, “Topaz”. If the form is advanced, treatment may not help. In this case, destroy the plant and discard the flower pot.
If a violet has dried up, what should you do?
One of the most common problems when growing violets is premature drying of buds and flowers . This is due to errors in care or unsuitable environment.
By establishing proper care and correcting errors in plant maintenance, the problem of drying buds will be solved.
The main condition for violet health is proper care.
There are main reasons why a violet has dried up, and below we will look at them carefully.
Causes
Air humidity
Perhaps one of the most important reasons why violet flowers and buds dry is low indoor humidity. Dry indoor air has a detrimental effect not only on flowering, but also on the growth of Saintpaulia in general.
The problem of low humidity becomes especially urgent during the heating season , when due to the heating of the radiators, the humidity drops to 30%.
Many people mistakenly believe that it is enough to spray the plant with water from a spray bottle twice a day and that will be enough. The humidity will not rise significantly, and the delicate violet leaves may rot.
Content temperature
High temperatures do not promote normal plant development. The optimal ambient temperature for growing indoor Saintpaulia is 20-24 degrees Celsius.
An increase in temperature for a short period of time is not dangerous for Saintpaulia. Temperatures above 29 degrees Celsius are dangerous. High temperatures always make the air dryer.
Air temperature significantly affects violets.
Any increase in ambient temperature has a detrimental effect on flowering. It can be reduced by increasing the humidity in the room or increasing the frequency of ventilation.
Lack of lighting
Due to lack of lighting, the plant does not have enough strength to bloom , so the buds may wither without opening. There are other signs of lack of lighting:
This problem often occurs in winter, when daylight hours decrease and the number of cloudy days increases. If the plant is located far from a window or light source.
Additional artificial lighting or placing a pot of Saintpaulia in a brighter place will help correct the situation
If the plant is initially grown under artificial lighting, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the plant and the device or replace the lamps with more powerful ones.
High soil acidity
The optimal soil acidity pH for violets is 6.5. If you deviate from this indicator, it is difficult for the plant to absorb nutrients, it stops developing due to their lack:
Changes in soil acidity can occur if the soil is not selected correctly. It is worth doing a complete transplant of the plant into a new suitable soil.
Excess nitrogen in the soil
Excess nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, but flowering will be absent. To correct the situation, it is necessary to replace the complex fertilizer with another one, with a lower nitrogen content, or replant the plant in new soil.
Violet overfed with nitrogen.
Drafts and cold air flows during ventilation
Indoor Saintpaulias are very afraid of cold drafts. In this case, the plant will not only not bloom, but may also die completely.
Signs of this will be white and brown veins on the leaves . To avoid this, you need to remove the pot with the plant from the window during ventilation.
Treatment options
Having found out the causes of the disease, you should decide what to do if the violet dries up. To correct the situation of premature drying of the buds, to restore the lush flowering of the plant, you must do the following:
If the violet dries out for no apparent reason, replanting can help.
If the problem why the buds have dried out is due to improper conditions, then you can save the remaining buds after adjusting the conditions and feeding the plants with fertilizer containing phosphorus.
In other cases, it is better to remove all the flowers and buds yourself so that the plant does not become even more depleted . It is better to be patient, correct all problems and wait for healthy flowering.
Violet withers after transplantation
Often after resuscitation, especially if the Saintpaulia had to simply be transplanted, there may be no improvement or the flower’s condition may even begin to deteriorate . These processes are manifested by general lethargy, loss of turgor, and a change in the shade of the leaves. In this case, how to save a violet that is withering?
It is important not to panic and assess the condition of the individual , because it may simply be a slow improvement after an illness, or it may be an incorrect diagnosis and/or incorrect treatment.
If the plant is simply slowly recovering or there is no improvement at all, you should think about changing the resuscitation method or just watch and wait . For example, if the rooting of the top is carried out in the ground, it is worth doing this in water. If Saintpaulia becomes worse, it is necessary to urgently examine all parts of the flower for any undetected problems and take measures to improve the condition.
If the violet withers after transplantation, check whether your actions are correct.
Wilting can also begin due to improper care. If the reanimated plant is over-watered, then even if this was not the problem initially, the excess moisture will play a negative role in the treatment.
Useful tips for preventing diseases in Saintpaulias
In order for Saintpaulias to develop and bloom well, it is necessary to create the correct conditions of maintenance and care:
- Periodically treat the plants under running water at a temperature of up to +40 ° C from a shower horn. At this moment, you should ensure that excess moisture does not get into the soil. Such prevention is reasonable at intervals of 2-3 months. Polyethylene is tied around the trunk of the plant and the flower pot so as not to wash away the soil. After this, the flower is poured out of the shower and left in the bathroom until the leaves are completely dry. Otherwise, white or brown spots may appear on them. Brown ones are caused by sunburn, white ones are caused by hypothermia.
- To combat diseases and insects, use a solution of garlic cloves. To do this, 3 cloves are kneaded and placed in 1 liter of water. Cover the contents with a lid and keep for 24 hours at room temperature. The resulting infusion is diluted with 5 liters of water and the soil and leaf plates of Saintpaulia are treated. After processing, the flowers are blotted to remove any remaining water.
- In difficult cases, it is necessary to use chemical methods to combat diseases and pests of violets. The most common remedy for combating fungal diseases is Fitosporin. To do this, 5 g of insecticide is soaked in 5 liters of water for 30 minutes. Having collected the resulting solution with a medical syringe, thoroughly moisten the soil in the pot. If the drug Fitosporin M is available, spray the plants by dissolving 10 g of powder in 1 glass of water.
- A weak solution of potassium permanganate is used to combat incipient diseases of fungal origin. When cultivating the land, you need to dilute 3 g of potassium permanganate in 5 liters of water and thoroughly pour in the resulting dark mixture.
- Before treating violets against insects, the leaves should be wiped with an alcohol solution to remove immobile specimens and the plaque formed by them.
- To combat ticks, thrips, and aphids, the drug Fitoverm is suitable, an ampoule of which is dissolved in 1 liter of water. If you have a pet shampoo containing permethrin, add 1 teaspoon to the solution. The violets are treated after 3 days, repeating the treatments 4 times.
- To destroy eggs and larvae of ticks, I use the drug Nissoran, using 1 g of product per 1 liter of water. The soil and plants where the offspring are located are sprayed, which die within 1-2 weeks.
Pests of violets
Leaves, buds, and petioles of violets need to be inspected regularly. Especially in spring and summer, when the windows are open for ventilation. Be mindful of insect pests when purchasing a new potted plant from a flower shop and when decorating your home with cut flowers. It doesn’t matter whether they were cut in your own garden or in an industrial greenhouse. With flowers and soil for air transplanting, there is a chance of pests getting into your blooming violets. The most common aphid pests are:
- Mites (flat beetles, cyclamen, spider mites).
- Scale insect (false scale).
- Nematodes.
- Thrips.
- Aphid.
- Mealybug.
There are many pests that parasitize violets. Photos of insects and violets damaged by them will help to identify the parasite in time and choose the right method of control.
Ticks
Ticks feed on violet juice. The size of ticks is so small that it is difficult to see them with the naked eye.
Spider mite
Spider mite
The most common type of mite that settles on the petioles and leaves of indoor violets is the spider mite. We saw the finest white cobwebs on the petioles, buds, and leaves - this was a spider mite on the violet. The poor plant loses its decorative appearance due to loss of juice. Deformed brown leaves appear on the bushes. They dry out and fall off.
Cyclamen mite
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Cyclamen mite
If the violet does not grow, has stopped blooming, the young leaves are covered with yellow spots and are compacted - a cyclamen mite has settled on the flower. It settles in at the top of the outlet.
Flat beetle mite
Flat beetle mite
Flower growers rarely encounter this mite on their violets. Signs of the presence of a flat beetle mite on a violet are leaves curled inward. The leaves gradually wither, dry out and fall off. The violet may die.
Folk recipes for ticks on violets
If you see the first signs of a mite on a violet, don’t wait, use a simple folk trick first. You can take vodka or alcohol. Use a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to wipe the petioles and leaves of the violet.
After a few days, spray the violet with an infusion of onion peels. Pour 80 g of onion peels into a 3-liter jar and pour boiling water over it. After a couple of days, the infusion can be filtered and used for spraying. Treat all flower plants in the room for prevention.
Chemistry against ticks
Traditional recipes are effective at the initial stage. When the concentration of insects is threshold, the flower is threatened with death, the only way out is chemistry. Use acaricides - special preparations to combat ticks:
- Apollo is an enteric contact drug. Apollo destroys tick eggs, kills larvae, and inhibits the sexual activity of adults.
- Neoron is a new product that acts on adult ticks from the inside. Duration of exposure is 10-40 days.
- Fitoverm is an effective insectoacaricide with enteric contact action. Valid for up to 20 days from the date of processing.
Shchitovka
Shchitovka
It is difficult to get rid of scale insects and false scale insects on violets. One female scale insect that lands on a flower lays many eggs within a few days. Larvae (vagrants), when born, feed on violet juice. The lower surface of the leaves of an infected violet is covered with red-brown scutes. Yellow spots are visible on the upper surface of the leaf blade. Adults secrete a sticky mass in which sooty fungus multiplies. Sometimes it's easier to destroy the violet.
Adults are not afraid of insecticides, so they must be removed mechanically. To do this, you will need a cotton swab moistened with the preparation: “Aktellik”, “Aktar”, “Karbofos”. You can treat the leaves with soapy water by dropping kerosene into it; it’s even easier to take 1 liter of water and pour 2 tbsp into it. l olive oil. Treat all violet leaves and petioles with the resulting oily solution.
Thrips
Thrips
The first sign of thrips on violets is scatterings of pollen, the second is yellow tracks on the leaves. A recipe from an experienced violet lover will help you get rid of thrips on violets. Take any flea shampoo (25 ml) and 1 ampoule of Fitoverm-M. Dilute them in 5-6 liters of water.
Wrap the violet (pot) in a plastic bag so that the soil does not fall out. Wash violet leaves in running warm water. Dip the socket into a bowl of soapy water for 10 seconds. After the procedure, water the soil in the pot with a solution of 2 preparations: Fitoverm-M, Aktara, prepared according to the instructions.
Nematodes
Nematodes
Nematodes are thread-like, transparent worms (up to 2 mm). They live in the soil and infect the root system. Signs of a violet affected by nematodes:
- elongated, thickened stem;
- shortened petioles, petioles completely absent on the upper leaves;
- the leaves acquire an unnaturally dark green color and become dense;
- the edges of the leaves curl inward;
- flowers are small, ugly;
- thickenings on the roots (galls);
- roots are brown and black.
It is impossible to get rid of nematodes; prevention saves. When planting, you can add crushed dry marigold petals and peat to the soil. Nematodes do not like peat. Water the violets with marigold infusion or water infused with peat. Nematodes do not like vermicompost. A substrate based on vermicompost (Terra-Vita) is an ideal option for violets. Use new pots for replanting; treat old ones with a strong disinfectant.
Mealybug
Mealybug
Mealybugs can be seen with the naked eye; the size of the insect depends on the variety (3-6 mm). Damage to violets is caused by adults and their larvae. Habitats:
- buds;
- young leaves;
- young shoots.
An infected violet is stunted in growth. On damaged surfaces you can see a white coating that looks like cotton wool. In the later stages, the fungus multiplies on the sweet secretions of insects.
You can get rid of scale insects on violets. Moisten the brush in a soapy solution and clean all parts of the plant from insects and plaque. Prepare a solution of green soap. Grate 10 g per liter of water and stir. Spray the violet. It is necessary to process 3 times with an interval of 7 days.
Aphid
Aphid
Aphids on violets are visible to the naked eye; they form their colonies on the inner surface of the leaves, in the buds. Adults and larvae suck the sap, inhibiting the plant. The fungus multiplies on the sticky secretions of aphids. Aphids are carriers of viruses. Signs of violets affected by aphids:
- the crown part of the flower is deformed;
- ugly shaped flowers;
- buds do not develop;
- leaves are curled.
It is not difficult to fight aphids, especially at the very beginning. If small green or black insects appear (the color depends on the type of aphid), wash the violet with soapy water. Tear off leaves that have lost their shape. After a few days, repeat the treatment. In advanced cases, use chemistry:
- Aktellik;
- Fitoverm;
- Intavir.
Find out how to save and revive a violet
Regardless of the care taken and the number of individuals in the collection, there are times when violets die. Damage by pests and diseases or care errors can completely destroy an individual, and sometimes several at once.
If it is too late to take treatment measures, all that remains is to revive the dying violet . How to revive violets at home depends on the problem that is causing the plant to die, on the experience of the grower and the materials available.
Is it possible to save a dried flower?
A very dangerous condition for violets is lack of moisture. A dried violet is difficult to revive ; if it is not completely gone, there is a chance.
In such a situation,
it is important to identify the living parts of the plant:
If changes in the condition of the flower are noticed in time and measures are taken, resuscitation may not be achieved. Sometimes the reason for the lack of the required amount of moisture is not forgetfulness, but planting in a new pot, using a new type of watering, or other changes in care in which the owner does not even notice that the plant is not receiving moisture.
The edges of violet leaves are drying out
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I have a problem, I read about all the diseases, but I can’t diagnose it myself. Help me please!
I bought 13 babies, gradually spots began to appear on all of them (see photo)
Everything is on wick watering (a mixture in my opinion: peat, vermiculite, perlite - this is by eye), after the purchase I did not replant it, watered with distilled water with Kemira combi, north side, window sill.
This is the initial stage on newly purchased violets; the young leaves are affected first.
I treated it with phytoverm, the result was deplorable, in my opinion it got even worse!
Topaz didn’t give any improvement either!
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Place in water
This method is suitable for cases where the greenhouse did not help the plant. You need to tear off a few of the lower leaves of the violet, place it in a container with water, and cover with a bag. This method will help grow the root system, the results will appear in about a month. Then you can start planting the plant. After placing the violet in a pot of soil, place it in a pan of water and cover it again with a bag to help the flower take root.
Then, over the course of a couple of weeks, you need to accustom the violet to less humid air every day. How to do it? To do this, you can open the bag once a day to introduce new air to the plant. After about 14 days, the polyethylene can be removed.
